97 3.0CL Brake Rotors...How to: The end to all rumors
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Racer
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97 3.0CL Brake Rotors...How to: The end to all rumors
Hey all,
This post is just what the title states. I just finished doing my rotors and it wasn't difficult. Unlike the rumor that has been going around about how the hub is pressed on over the rotor, it's not true.
After having lift your car and set on jackstands, remove the wheels and here we go...
1. Remove the caliper and caliper mounting bracket. Don't remove the lines unless you want to bleed them afterwards. Instead use some wire and let it hang. Set the bracket aside.
2. Next remove the ABS wheel sensor along with the line that goes along the knuckle. Also, unbolt the brake hose bracket from the knuckle.
3. Now, using a long prybar place it between two of the four wheel studs and the ground, the ground being the opposing force to keep the hub from turning. Then using a 36mm socket and a half inch rachet with a long pipe for leverage, unbolt the axle nut.
3. Next, unbolt all items on the lower control arm. That includes the damper fork, the radius rod, and the sway bar links. Then using a 17mm socket undo the bolt that holds that lower control arm to the chassis.
4. After doing that the knuckle and hub assembly can be turned out freely after pushing the axle completely through the hub.
5. Next there are four bolts behind the knuckle assembly that holds the hub in place. Remove the four bolts and using a hammer tap the hub out in a clockwise pattern. The whole hub assembly with the rotor will fall out.
6. Now this is the interesting part that doesn't require you to undo the wheel bearing and hub. With the hub laying on the wheel studs the rotor could simply be turned and lift off the back of the hub without any effort.
7. Put the new rotor on and installation is reverse of removal.
Sorry folks I didn't take any pics it was pouring out and I got drenched didn't want to take a chance with the camera. But if any of you were to attempt this the above guide will save you lots of guessing work. The first rotor took me nearly four hours to do. As it required several trips to the Parts store and back. Well, I found out that my sway bar link kit was bad and the lower ball joint was busted and dried. I know Acura had a recall but don't want to take any chances. Maybe they'll reimburse me.
The second rotor took me an hour. So if I were to do it again it would be two hours max maybe less.
Hopefully this is helpful to all you DIY-ers. If you have any questions I will be glad to answer them.
Good night all,
James
This post is just what the title states. I just finished doing my rotors and it wasn't difficult. Unlike the rumor that has been going around about how the hub is pressed on over the rotor, it's not true.
After having lift your car and set on jackstands, remove the wheels and here we go...
1. Remove the caliper and caliper mounting bracket. Don't remove the lines unless you want to bleed them afterwards. Instead use some wire and let it hang. Set the bracket aside.
2. Next remove the ABS wheel sensor along with the line that goes along the knuckle. Also, unbolt the brake hose bracket from the knuckle.
3. Now, using a long prybar place it between two of the four wheel studs and the ground, the ground being the opposing force to keep the hub from turning. Then using a 36mm socket and a half inch rachet with a long pipe for leverage, unbolt the axle nut.
3. Next, unbolt all items on the lower control arm. That includes the damper fork, the radius rod, and the sway bar links. Then using a 17mm socket undo the bolt that holds that lower control arm to the chassis.
4. After doing that the knuckle and hub assembly can be turned out freely after pushing the axle completely through the hub.
5. Next there are four bolts behind the knuckle assembly that holds the hub in place. Remove the four bolts and using a hammer tap the hub out in a clockwise pattern. The whole hub assembly with the rotor will fall out.
6. Now this is the interesting part that doesn't require you to undo the wheel bearing and hub. With the hub laying on the wheel studs the rotor could simply be turned and lift off the back of the hub without any effort.
7. Put the new rotor on and installation is reverse of removal.
Sorry folks I didn't take any pics it was pouring out and I got drenched didn't want to take a chance with the camera. But if any of you were to attempt this the above guide will save you lots of guessing work. The first rotor took me nearly four hours to do. As it required several trips to the Parts store and back. Well, I found out that my sway bar link kit was bad and the lower ball joint was busted and dried. I know Acura had a recall but don't want to take any chances. Maybe they'll reimburse me.
The second rotor took me an hour. So if I were to do it again it would be two hours max maybe less.
Hopefully this is helpful to all you DIY-ers. If you have any questions I will be glad to answer them.
Good night all,
James
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Well, I guess it's not a secret anymore. And I don't recall this method was posted anywhere before, it would of been hella helpful.
BTW, I put on Brembo blanks and Akebone Ceramic pads. God Damn!!!!! That was one big difference. It should be actually since I have 96,500 miles on the car and this is the first time the rotors were changed. I was so afraid of paying the high prices of changing the rotors or of the work involved that I was putting it off. The vibrations were horrible, braking had to be done at a great distance.
Thanks God it's over though!!!
-James
BTW, I put on Brembo blanks and Akebone Ceramic pads. God Damn!!!!! That was one big difference. It should be actually since I have 96,500 miles on the car and this is the first time the rotors were changed. I was so afraid of paying the high prices of changing the rotors or of the work involved that I was putting it off. The vibrations were horrible, braking had to be done at a great distance.
Thanks God it's over though!!!
-James
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good stuff! maybe i'll get around to trying it one day. Me and a friend tried doing it once and getting off that center axle bolt was a bitch, we couldnt do it. so we just gave up =T
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#8
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Originally Posted by ShibbyDevil
hey.... how much did you pay for your brembo blanks? where did you get 'em from?
the groupbuy.... search the threads.
#9
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Thanks all for the replies!!
I got the blanks for $50 a pair and the Akebono brake pads were $40. I work for Advance Auto Parts and I got these at cost from the company's local source.
-James
I got the blanks for $50 a pair and the Akebono brake pads were $40. I work for Advance Auto Parts and I got these at cost from the company's local source.
-James
#11
ENGAGE MY VTEC BABY!!!!!!
are you rotors slotted or drilled? can you get more sets? let me know
ill pay you a finders fee as well for them all i need is pads and rotors for front and rear
let me know its good money for ya so....
aol im: jgiguere17
ill pay you a finders fee as well for them all i need is pads and rotors for front and rear
let me know its good money for ya so....
aol im: jgiguere17
#14
Originally Posted by KLepTo
good stuff! maybe i'll get around to trying it one day. Me and a friend tried doing it once and getting off that center axle bolt was a bitch, we couldnt do it. so we just gave up =T
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Very good description, sounds like a pain in the ass, but very helpful and imformative
#21
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Originally Posted by shineynitelite
NOOOOOBBBB this threads about as old as you are.. (a-cl speaking)
You're no vet yourself.
:troutslap
BTW - You're still my SON, and I still love you despite your rebilliousness.
#25
Revelation 3:15-17
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Originally Posted by shineynitelite
p.s. change your avatar i hate it
Why?
Your avatar is :ghey: but you don't see me complaining.
BTW - I hate your stupid bird.
#26
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Originally Posted by DivineCL
Why?
Your avatar is :ghey: but you don't see me complaining.
BTW - I hate your stupid bird.
Your avatar is :ghey: but you don't see me complaining.
BTW - I hate your stupid bird.
youu have had that some one for about forever!!.. change it!!! my bird would kick your ass!
#27
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Originally Posted by shineynitelite
youu have had that some one for about forever!!.. change it!!! my bird would kick your ass!
Son, how are you going to hate on your own father?
Everyone seems to like it. You're the first one I hear complaining about it.
Did your girl give you morning blue balls?
#28
I know this is an old post Acura 2.2CL 97' 2.2 CL 1997
Acura 2.2 CL 97'
2.2CL 1997
But this is all new to me and took a while to find.
I was wondering if these pictures went along with what the directions here are:
http://murtaughs.tripod.com/murtaughs/instruction.htm
I was thinking of doing a conversion using acura 2.3cl 99' front brakes, and i might still do them since i "think" it is still easier to do.
This is the link to change it over:
http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...ight=acura+2.2
Im planning on doing the simple way, using the smaller rotors 10.2.
I just am worried the rotors and pads won't fit, because i already had ordered the parts for the acura 2.2CL 97' prior to knowing it was such a pain in the ass!
So i was wondering if anyone knew it mattered much...here are the specs between the two.
Acura 2.2CL 97':
http://www.hondanews.com/CatID3074?m...&archives=1997
(2.2CL)
Ventilated, 10.24in (260mm)
diameter, .91 in (23 mm) rotor
thickness
Acura 2.3CL 99':
http://www.hondanews.com/CatID3074?m...&archives=1999
(2.3CL) Ventilated, 10.2 in (260 mm) diameter, 0.9 in (23 mm) rotor thickness
I'd like to get this straightened out and then im going to post pictures and everything, because its seems like im not the only one looking around without luck. below is what i ordered for the Acura 2.2CL 97'
1 Brembo sport slotted rotor(pr) In Stock $152.00 $152.00
1 Hawk hps street/sport pads In Stock $52.00 $52.00
2.2CL 1997
But this is all new to me and took a while to find.
I was wondering if these pictures went along with what the directions here are:
http://murtaughs.tripod.com/murtaughs/instruction.htm
I was thinking of doing a conversion using acura 2.3cl 99' front brakes, and i might still do them since i "think" it is still easier to do.
This is the link to change it over:
http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...ight=acura+2.2
Im planning on doing the simple way, using the smaller rotors 10.2.
I just am worried the rotors and pads won't fit, because i already had ordered the parts for the acura 2.2CL 97' prior to knowing it was such a pain in the ass!
So i was wondering if anyone knew it mattered much...here are the specs between the two.
Acura 2.2CL 97':
http://www.hondanews.com/CatID3074?m...&archives=1997
(2.2CL)
Ventilated, 10.24in (260mm)
diameter, .91 in (23 mm) rotor
thickness
Acura 2.3CL 99':
http://www.hondanews.com/CatID3074?m...&archives=1999
(2.3CL) Ventilated, 10.2 in (260 mm) diameter, 0.9 in (23 mm) rotor thickness
I'd like to get this straightened out and then im going to post pictures and everything, because its seems like im not the only one looking around without luck. below is what i ordered for the Acura 2.2CL 97'
1 Brembo sport slotted rotor(pr) In Stock $152.00 $152.00
1 Hawk hps street/sport pads In Stock $52.00 $52.00
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