mushi

Hello guys. I am about to replace the stock system in a 1st gen CL. The fronts are 6.5's with tweets in the dash and 6 X 9's in the back. I am planning on a sound quality install rather a loud SPL install. Too many boomy bass noise in cars today.This is what I plan:

JL XR-650CS Component set up front
2 - IDQ12 V.2 subwoofers
JBL BP80.4 for the front sound stage and BP1200.1 for the subs

I did not forget about the rear speakers, I am going to deinstall them. The principle in sound quality and imaging is to have minimal sources of sound. Theoretically, 2 speakers than can play all sound frequencies would be ideal, but there is no such speaker. The empty speaker holes to the trunk will make a nice passage for the bass from the trunk. If anyone with experience or knowledge of installing a new sound system on a 1st gen CL please pass some wisdom this way. Particulary these topics:

I am going to run a 0 AWG wire from the battery to the back connected to a fused distribution block with 4 gauge outputs to the amps. 10 gauge to the subs from the amp. 12 gauge from the components to the amp. Does this sound correct? How difficult is it to install these wires properly and how would one do it?

How do you strip the door panel to access the speaker and its wiring?

How would I go about replacing the tweeter in the dash?

Where is the stock POS bose amp located?


Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

HeavyP_RENAMED

Does this sound correct? How difficult is it to install these wires properly and how would one do it?

run the wire thru a grommet in the firewall or drill your own hole
difficult? easy to me....but ive done several installs on various cars...it depends on u


How do you strip the door panel to access the speaker and its wiring?
a few screws and pull tabs....its easy



How would I go about replacing the tweeter in the dash?
just pop out the grill...the stock tweet is attached to it....use a flat screwdriver


Where is the stock POS bose amp located?
sorry...i dont know bout this one


i do not recommend getting the IDQ's
i dont know why people think it is and SQ sub.....ITS NOT
it is just good for the $ as people say which is really a bad thing cuz it is a cheap sub. the sound is muddy.
get something like an alumapro alchemy or soundstream exact.....much better sounding (but cost more)

hornyleprechaun

Can't wait to see your finished product..but the only answer that I can give you is about the stock amp..it is located right under the passenger seat...good luck

CL'S

99CL

Are you sure it's under the passenger seat? I thought the alarm brain was under there? Well, that's for mine at least. The Bose Amp is in the trunk under the Passenger side tail light. That's where mine was. Good luck with your install. Don't know if you really need 0 gauge wire though. I think 4 might be enough..

hornyleprechaun

hmm...maybe its different for the 2.2 and the 3.0???...but i'm almost positive that the amp is under the passenger seat..thats what i've read on some other threads before at least..

CL'S

Luckyax2

for the 1997 3.0 the amp is located in the trunk by your right tailight. Unhook the plastic piece and look behind the carpet

niedejb

The door panel pops off. There are tools out there to do it, but a patient hand can get it done.

Just pull/pry toward the rear corner of the door to unsnap one of the "rivets" and the rest should be easy.

Padger

Well I disagree with the comment about IDQ's. I have a single IDQ12 with a minimal amount of power (PPI 2x50) and it sounds awesome. On the inside I have complete MB Quarts (6x9 & seperates in front) with another PPI (4x50). There is more then enough power from those little amps to shake the car... and it is clear as a bell.

To each his own though.

HeavyP_RENAMED

"To each his own though."
That's true.

Also, "You get what you pay for."

The IDQ is pretty damn good for a $100 subwoofer; that I will concede, but compared to "higher-up" subs, there are no comparisions.

not to knock on your system, I am sure it sounds nice,
don't you find that the MB Quart tweeters have a NASTY resonance?

Padger

I have heard "high-end" subs, and they aren't any bit better in my opinion. My IDQ12 is about 4 yrs old and it still sounds great. As for the MB Quarts, I have yet to hear anything smoother. If you have a nice head unit, I wouldn't have anything else. I have an old school Pioneer and the DSP EQ. I just need to get rid of some rattle in the back dash/ trunk!

mushi

Wow. Thanks a lot for the responses guys. I let this sit in the A/V forum and nobody seemed interested. For clarification, this will be done on a 1998 3.0 CL. I have a few more questions though:

What are some ideal ground points to use in the CL?

Along which specific paths is it convenient to run the power and rca cables to the rear?

Any other advice...

HeavyP,
I went with the IDQ's because they fit perfectly into my specifications (box size and enclosure type) and budget. The box is a dual 12" 100% sealed (for accurate, tight bass) with silicone, 1.0 cubic feet per sub chamber, and is a perfect fit into the inner, slightly smaller well of the trunk. Contrary to your opinion, I have heard nothing but good things but my ears will be the final judge. Yeah, i'd like to get a pair of IDMAX or JLW7 subs but I dont have that kind of cash to blow. Whats your opinion about the components up front?

Padger,
I'll be powering these subs with 300 watts to each with a JBL BP1200.1 Wonder how they will sound @ 300 watts if they pound @ 100 watts...

niedejb, Luckyax2, hornyleprechaun,
Thanks for your answers and time. There is nothing under my passenger seat so I presume the amp is in the trunk.

Hope I don't hurt the baby, wish me luck.

Padger

I have the 2x50 running a solo IDQ12. I have had the IDQ12's in a couple different box sizes, and I would saw you could stand to go a little bigger then 1.0ft3 with 300w. I know the trunk is kinda small, but with 1.1-1.3ft3, you are going to get a deaper thump.

haiduc

i'm having problems thinking of where you can run that 0awg wire through. thats preety thick. i dont know if you can fit it under the door and have the little step panel snap back in place properly.

btw.. i'll put dynaudio speakers against anything. (the spank mb's up and down, but they cost a preety penny.)

ChrisKelly5

Personally, I would stay away from the IDQ - they always seem to sound real distorted. After many weeks of debating, I chose the Infinity Kappa 100.1se 10" subwoofers. They have one of the highest quality rating around. For example, kicker comps have an 89 rating, while the infinity kappas have a 97 (100 is the highest) Xtant is another high sound quality sub. As far as the amp... you could have the nicest subs in the world, but, if you have a pyramid amp... they are gonna sound like sh*t! So, invest the money & get a high quality amp. Some of the ones I would recommend are Xtant, Pheonix Gold. Stay away from Fosgate (they are being made by a new company & they suck) These are just my opinions.... hope I didnt offend anyone... peace...

FrstGenCL

I have had MB Quart in the past and I dont think I will ever install another speaker in my car ever. I am considering the Polk MOMO series for components in the front just because of the money. As for amps, I have Alpine V12's and they are awsome. Clean power. System is my next project... I will probably go with a JBL W7 10" in some type of stealth box...

mushi

1GenCL,
Damn, was hoping for a rather uncomplicated install but I guess the 0 gauge is going to cause some issues. If anyone has any idea or advice to path such a thick wire, please do let me know.

ChrisKelly5,
No offense taken here, just a counter-opinion. I don't know who starting determining sound quality with numerical ratings but to me, it seems like BS. Also, for inifity kappas to score within the top 3 three percent is highly unlikely compared to other subs like the IDMAX, JL W7, Focal, etc. As for the IDQ's, my ears will be judge, jury, and executioner.
I will agree with you that a good amp is key to a sound system but as long they produce the rated watts (a good rule of thumb is dollar per watt, but not always true), they amplify the same signal. The features and capable stable impendence load makes the difference. If you hadn't noticed, JBL makes very efficient amps at a low price point. The BP1200.1 has been tested to provide over 1300 clean watts @ 2ohms and features class D efficiency. For its price tag, it is very hard to beat.


Thanks for the replies and please keep the responses coming, I enjoy reading them. As always, any technical help or advice is more than welcome.

HeavyP_RENAMED

mushi...

yeah...the 0 gauge power wire is pretty thick.....most people run the cables under the door sill panel.....if it fits then cool, if not, then you may have to run it under the carpet....but it will make a bump. some people run the cable underneath the car in a custom tube or pipe.

Are you going to run a seperate 0 gauge ground wire back to the battery or just a chassis ground? If you use only a chassis ground, I suggest upgrading the ground wires in your engine bay to 0 gauge.

As for the JL XR compoonents...I have never listened to them before.....

the BP JBL amps are pretty decent IMO

good luck

mushi

Hey what part of Cali are you in HeavyP? If its not too far from LA, maybe you could visually point some things out for me. I am not planning on running the wire back (too much thick wire) and will definately heed your advice on the 0 gauge. If you know of any ideal ground points please let me know. Thanks for the time HeavyP.

HeavyP_RENAMED

sorry mushi...i just moved from LA to the SF bay area a few months ago (i graduated yeah!)


you can use the shock tower bolt (thats what i did) butits not ideal IMO

some people jsut make their own with a drill and screw/washer

or some poeple use the rear seatbelt bolt underneath the rear seats


u can PM me for any help as i have installed the cd player, 2 amps, components up front and ran all the cabling myslef.

basically....my system is very similiar to yours

TampaCL

In my opinion Sound quality is always a personal preference unless you are going competition. If you like the IDQ's then go for it. As far as that 0 gauge wire it isn't necessary but it doesn't hurt anything. I'm only using a 4 guage with my 3 amps run under the drivers door sil with the rca cables running under the passengers door sil. I have run 0 guage under the carpet down the center of an accord and it worked great except for a bulge on the hump in the middle in front of the back seat. The choice is really up to you. The amps stay away from new rockfords Old ones are great I'm only getting rid of mine for larger jl amps. But that's only my opinion.

mushi

Alright, I'm almost confident enough to make this work thanks to you guys. :P I'd have to go with 0 gauge due to the fact that the JBL amps draw 114 + 43 = 157 amps at max and that is too much for 4 gauge. Besides, I wouldn't want to re-wire when I get different components. HeavyP, I will definately get to you on the pm. TampaCL, could you detail how you ran the 0 gauge down the middle? How do you like the XR's? The tweeter is soft and sweet although it is an aluminum tweet.

TampaCL

Mushi,
I love my JL's That's what I've always had and personally I think they deliver the best midbass as far as those aluminum dome tweeters the highs are great never too hash. That install I did on the accord to run the cable down the middle isn't easy. Prepare yourself for alot of work. You have to take everything out of the car: center console, seats, carpet the whole nine yards. Run the cable through the firewall and through the trunk.It's not as much as it is hard but its just a pain in the A**. PM for more questions.

HeavyP_RENAMED

hey mushi...its good that you are using the 0 gauge.....you never want to starve your amps for current......

hehe.....with those big amps....your battery isnt gonna last too long

where do u get your stereo stuff?

do you know about 11th street down town????
near wholesale prices baby!

mushi

Hmmm....... now I have a different idea. Would I be able to run 2 4AWG wires along the door sill? It would simplify the install a great deal. If this could be done, I'd bypass the need for a distribution block also. Let me know with your thoughts on this.

Another question I'd like to ask is how would I go about mounting amps on a subwoofer box? I know drill and screw, but are there any precautions I should take? Will the holes make the box any less efficient?

Thanks for the time.

PS. HeavyP, I've heard of 11th street but never really looked into it. I got some parts locally and off ebay, about 800 smacks for whole setup. Good deal i'd say. As for my battery, I don't plan on crankin the volume anywhere near max until I get a new deep cycle battery and/or alternator.

Padger

I just mounted my amps to the back of the backseat (around the pass thru). I mean it someone is gonna jack your system, make 'em work a little...

TampaCL

Yeah you could easily run two 4 gauge under the door sil. But i'd recomend seperate fuses for each wire its not necessary but just a precaution due to what could happen. Remember that when you mount amps onto a box you want to seal the holes. Some silicone or normal caulk will work. Air leaks do decrease the effectiveness of your box.

mushi

Alright, I think I am going to go with something smaller than a 0 gauge just for a simpler install but will definately deliver enough power.

Have you guys reran new wire to the front speaks and tweets before? How difficult is it? What is the gauge thickness of the stock wiring? I'm planning on pushing 160 per channel to the front.

As for the amps, I'd like to install them somewhere else but space is an issue in this setup. A thought that did come up was to bolt the box down to the car with some uncommon (suggestions?) screws for stability and mostly security. What do you guys think about my cheap version of security? Of course the best security is common sense... don't bump it so people want to jack your goods.

Casper98CL

ok.. after reading this thread i have to giggle alil bit!!!! as for your O gauge wire.. I have one run... and unless you are copeteing.. I would use a 4 gauge for power & Ground... If you want SQ... drop your equipment and step up to the plate with real equipment, with enough power to run speakerrs clearly, and speakers that will sound good with power to them... more importantly you must decide if your budget allows you to have good SQ or if you should settle just for some beats... Im not trying to sound like an ass.. sorry if i do... but learning what I have from the shows is completely different than what i thought i knew....

HeavyP_RENAMED

"I just mounted my amps to the back of the backseat (around the pass thru). I mean it someone is gonna jack your system, make 'em work a little..."-Padger

LOL haha.....those were my exact thoughts when i was mounting my amps!!!!


i suggest mounting on the seat instead of the box......i think it looks better and you have the option of removing/switching boxes if you need the room


i ran new wire to the front speakers. goin to the tweeter is cake....the door woofer is a pain though. its hard to pass the wire through the stock conduit.....you could just drill your own holes and make your own conduit.

the stock wiring is small...like 20 gauge?

mushi

HeavyP,
As soon as I get some wiring and essential equipment, I will surely get a hold of you on pm.

Casper98CL,
As for powering my speakers, aren't 1520 total watts enough? In my opinion it is overkill and to determine SQ at such high volume levels is impossible. Let me know what you consider "real equipment" and your ideal setup or better yet, your system.

The general rule for SQ is that it is 85% install 15% equipment. Thanks for all the help once again and I will keep you guys posted.

ChrisKelly5

Your car looks pretty sweet but, WTF is with the #3 in the winshield? I am assuming that it is a Chevy #3 ?

Casper98CL

well, when you say sound quality, your watts means garbage, cause I saw cars at a competition with single 100 watt amps that blow shit away!!! its all about stage... clarity... and yes the higher your spl and clearer your sound gets is your goal.... When i say "real equipment" i mean jump into competition equipment. Good EQS, AMPS, SPEAKERS, ETC.... as for my shit.... I have a limited edition PG (Phoenix Gold) OCTANE amp (2 500.1 PG titanium amps built together), I have a PG TiDEQ ( laptop EQ 30 band x2) PG X-max comp subs... You can't get "GOOD" SQ out of product bought at "The WIZ" or "BEST BUY" or whatever electronic store you got around you! As for SPL... you might just kick ass with your loudness, but SQ.. NEVER!

WTF is with the #3???? are you in a bubble, or just oblivious to what the #3 stands for... Well I know everyone is not a NASCAR fan, however I AM!!!! Dale Earnhardt Sr. was #3, who died over a yaer ago at Daytona Speedway.... It was a tribute sticker for him that any die hard fan had placed on their vehicles... Most fans, like myself kept it on until the 1 year anniversay of Daytona 500, many still have it on!

ChrisKelly5

WOW - your system is sooooo coooolllll (sic)
Yes, I live ina bubble.. to keep myself away from all the rednecks... sorry if I offended you but, I thought the sticker looked real trashy on your car , just my opinion though, and you know what they say, opinions are like assholes...

Casper98CL

i take no offense to what is said... as far as my system goes... still can't find one on here to match it so... (Ill just wait for Ross to finish his!) aint I a prick!!!! :pfawk: :sqntfawk:

ChrisKelly5

Yeah, maybe not, it can only get so loud anyways, Hey if you want them, I have some Flowmaster, JC Whitney, and various other redneck stickers that you can put on your winshield... (Ain't I a dick!!!!
:pfawk: :pfawk:

Casper98CL

nope... not a dick at all... just post whoring with me!!!!

and btw.. Im from NYC... far from redneck.... lmao

ChrisKelly5

Man I am just f*cking with you, I guess I shouldnt really be talking being that FLorida is full of rednecks....

Casper98CL

like i said... i take NO offense... and yes... my god is FL full of rednecks!!! scary shit sometimes!!!! lol