Originally Posted by Majofo

Here's a basic DIY guide for you guys considering on doing the 105k service yourself. Below will be the basic list of materials and tools you need to complete the job. Feel free to add anything that I may have omitted in the writeup. A few notes about the task, find at least a half empty garage to do it and give yourself the weekend to complete it. Start early Saturday morning and if you're lucky and everything goes right, you're done early Saturday afternoon.. If not.. late Sunday Afternoon. Most importantly, I take no responsibility if you attempt this DIY and fuck something up. <img alt="" src="images/smilies/smile.gif" title="Smile" /> <u><strong> Parts</strong></u> Timing Belt Drivebelt Water Pump TB Adjuster TB Auto Tensioner TB Idler Pulley 170F Thermostat NGK Laser Iridium plus #6994 Brake Cleaner Anti Seize Thread Locker PB Blaster 2gals Coolant 50/50 (silicate free - Honda Type 2 / Prestone) Shop Towels <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/4815864795_baf745f951_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>Tools</strong></u> Hydraulic Jack Jack Stands Wood Block At least a 2' Breaker Bar (Can be rented at Autozone for free, or bought at AZ or HF for ~$20) Impact Sockets &amp; Extensions - CP 19mm 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm socket set, deep neck and normal 10mm angled / elbow wrench, standard metric wrench set Torque Wrench at least 200 ft lb spec (Can be rented at Autozone for free) Mirror, Magnet, Metallic tray, Gloves (optional but very useful) Pan to hold used coolant Gloves <u><strong>Prep</strong></u> Engine cool Dry covered secure place - garage <u><strong>1.</strong></u> Remove all covers, unplug battery, raise front end and put up on jacks, remove front pass wheel, remove lower front splash guard. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4816178772_181fce8961_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>2.</strong></u> Remove Rad Res, Remove spark plugs, place coils in a safe location - helps when turning Crank and cams to leave them out until after TB job. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4816179280_fe1bfee7fd_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>3.</strong></u> Unhook PS res and tuck it out of the way, Remove drive belt, remove belt tensioner (learned the hard way) <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4815556619_2379167e01_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>4. </strong></u>Place jack with wood block under oil pan to support engine, remove side engine mount bracket &amp; side engine mount <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/4815556701_7e85e5edcd_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>5.</strong></u> Turn CP to line up the CP, rear &amp; front cam marks (1st piston TDC position) - verify front, rear might be off a little. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4815556763_2516d500b6_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>6.</strong></u> Remove CP bolt.. ffffuuuu!!! If you can get an impact wrench, get one. Otherwise don't be pussy, wedge the hex tool with a breaker bar &amp; using another breaker bar, remove CP bolt. I used 2' breaker bar and impact sockets &amp; extensions to get the job done. I soaked the bolt in some PB, not sure if helped but I got it off. It should be easy to remove after the initial pop. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4815556741_72ef9475cc_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>7.</strong></u> Remove upper and lower TB covers. Don't pry the covers off otherwise you might damage the seal on the edge. Remove remaining engine mount bracket. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4815556797_4fe5f777c9_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>8. </strong></u>Get all the timing marks in spec with the body, remove idler pulley, remove CP, remove TB, remove adjuster, remove auto tensioner <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4816179868_704b89e179_b.jpg" /> <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4816179896_a189085e35_b.jpg" /> <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4816178788_da16ed75c9_b.jpg" /> <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4816178814_09e961c4df_b.jpg" /> <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4816178876_55b13c7644_b.jpg" /> <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4816178918_e062e00c71_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>9.</strong></u> Open radiator cap on top and then open up bottom radiator cap to drain Coolant from rad. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4815556077_01cb6ba42f_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>10.</strong></u> Don't bother with rear engine coolant drain, it's a PITA bleeder valve to get to.. I was able to open it up but not a lot of coolant came out. I consulted 240sx and he said they just pop the WP and let the coolant spill out in the shop and to spray down with Brake cleaner to evaporate everything. If you want to bleed it from the rear of the block get a 1/8&rdquo; long hose leading to your fluid container and open up the valve with a wrench. If you decide to open up the WP without draining, put l long tray underneath the area collect the coolant and pack paper towels around the CP sensor assy. Remove the Water Pump. Soak up excess coolant and spray down CP area / WP seal and Timing Belt cover areas with lots of Brake Cleaner. Wipe Clean. Make sure CP area is completely dry and WP seal areas are clean as well as timing belt cover areas. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4816178944_c018fb3f19_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>11.</strong></u> Install new WP, Idler Pulley, Adjuster, Auto Tensioner &ndash; tighten battery tie down against adjuster <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4816179184_f5e546b05b_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>12.</strong></u> Check your TDC marks and install new TB starting at the CP &ndash; counter clockwise. There should be ZERO SLACK all the way to the adjuster. All the slack should be at the adjuster / tensioner. Tighten idler pulley to spec once TB is on. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4815556195_a7844882d9_b.jpg" /> <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4815556229_0a5e38d5dc_b.jpg" /> Check your TDC marks again after the belt is on <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/4816179316_4ecf8c4026_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>13.</strong></u> Clean up CP gear and shim with brake cleaner, reinstall shim (should be lip out) &amp; CP. Clean up CP bolt and lubricate end threads and neck of CP bolt between head and washer with fresh oil. Install bolt loosely and cycle crank six times, check TDC marks (front / rear cam &amp; CP marks). If they don't line up, redo TB installation. Wedge the hex tool again to keep the CP from moving and spec in the bolt to 181 ft.lbs. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4816179400_8bb64626c4_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>14.</strong></u>Replace timing covers, side mount bracket, drivebelt tensioner, check TDC marks for sanity. Remember.. check TDC marks with block not covers. Replace Drivebelt starting at CP, push tensioner back and slip top of Drivebelt over PS pump pulley. Replace Side Engine Mount, clean up securing bolts first. Torque into spec. Release jack from oil pan. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4816179456_d619f51868_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>Thermostat</strong></u> <u><strong>1.</strong></u> Remove intake, remove securing bolts on thermostat <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4815556457_05e364b0e7_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>2.</strong></u> Replace Thermostat with new one / new gasket. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4815556645_46d0c32f1c_b.jpg" /> <u><strong>Spark Plugs</strong><strong> &amp; Burping</strong></u> Install plugs and coils. Make sure to apply anti seize to end of the thread on the plugs. Replace Rad Res and refill rad. Do a triple check on all harness connections and look for any missing bolts, etc.. Verify everything is back together. Don&rsquo;t forget to secure the PS Res. Plug in battery and tighten clamps. Start the car and let it get to op temp to burp the coolant system. <img alt="" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4815556501_2d4feb7b76_b.jpg" /> Put the car back together and on the ground then take it for a ride.. the SM says to put it on the street and keep it in 2nd then let it drop from 2.5k down as part of the relearning drive cycle but I think it's only applicable when interfacing with the HDS. Not sure.. But other than that, that's it. I'm sure I left some stuff out or neglected to mention some things but that's the basics of the 105k service. I recommend doing a valve adjustment at this time as well. It's an additional few steps after the TB removal but definitely worth it. I have new heads that have been ported with new hardware going in as well, so with my limited time I opted to skip the valve adjustment. Special thanks to MisterFubar for selling me his Timing Kit at such a good price and 240sx acura tech for the inside tips on the job. <img alt="" src="images/smilies/thumbsup.gif" title="Thumbs Up" />

Originally Posted by mossman77

Thanks for posting that. Has me reconsidering. Not that I wouldn't be able to do it, but because I'm not sure I have the time or patience. If everything wasn't packed so tight, I wouldn't hesitate. BTW, what is the first &quot;FFFFUUUUU&quot; comment referring to after removing the engine mount? Did something break? Is the engine mount a PITA to get off?

Originally Posted by mossman77

I watched very extensive (2 hour) You Tube video on changing the timing belt on a J series engine and I am pretty confident I can do it. I spent a couple hundred dollars on tools specifically for the job, so I am going to follow through. I planned on starting last weekend, but found that there are three bolts Acura recommends replacing, so I have those on order. Hopefully I'll be able to start this weekend or the following weekend. I'll post back with the outcome--hopefully a positive one!