My Build Thread - bordering on more BS! 56K Beware
If there were beefier parts out there Id look into it. The only parts Ive seen were carbon fiber synchros but thats crazy money that Im not spending.
Thanks. Ive seen a few out there in the $1600+ range. Im trying to hold out for something in the $1000-1200 range. I can drive the car at the moment, but I cant really get on it repeatedly otherwise the vibration/shuddering gets stronger. Id like to hold out until late October/November before swapping it.
Thanks. Ive seen a few out there in the $1600+ range. Im trying to hold out for something in the $1000-1200 range. I can drive the car at the moment, but I cant really get on it repeatedly otherwise the vibration/shuddering gets stronger. Id like to hold out until late October/November before swapping it.
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I don't want anything with more than 50K miles on it, also I suggest 05+ since any before then may have the old 3rd/4th synco set that has been giving issues.
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Other than the in-car symptoms that one may notice like the 'vibration/shuddering' you mentioned above, is there any other info. that NVA-AV6 may have offered that would help diagnose diff bearing issues? He mentions the 'play' from the inner joint at the trans housing above? Is that in/out play versus circular play, or both? I don't think I have seen any mention of this type of issue on AZine before.
Other than the in-car symptoms that one may notice like the 'vibration/shuddering' you mentioned above, is there any other info. that NVA-AV6 may have offered that would help diagnose diff bearing issues? He mentions the 'play' from the inner joint at the trans housing above? Is that in/out play versus circular play, or both? I don't think I have seen any mention of this type of issue on AZine before.
Ive got a few feelers out to some people right now for the tranny. I found one with ~71k miles on it.
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Both 08s are a completely new design, so I am not surprised, but atleast those that I did the syncro update to (at least 15) have not had issues that I have heard of.
Me too.
There will be a next time. If all goes well I hope to have the new tranny in by the end of October.
Finish them lol
Its been crazy the past few weeks running up and down the east coast, working, and breaking the car
There is a meet this weekend, so I wont be able to get to them until Sunday hopefully. The new plan will mean that this will take much longer then the first set - which I banged out over two days. These will require a lot more finesse since I plan on taking these to a new level.
Its been crazy the past few weeks running up and down the east coast, working, and breaking the car
There is a meet this weekend, so I wont be able to get to them until Sunday hopefully. The new plan will mean that this will take much longer then the first set - which I banged out over two days. These will require a lot more finesse since I plan on taking these to a new level.
Baller of Uni
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,311
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From: Nashville, TN
Finish them lol
Its been crazy the past few weeks running up and down the east coast, working, and breaking the car There is a meet this weekend, so I wont be able to get to them until Sunday hopefully. The new plan will mean that this will take much longer then the first set - which I banged out over two days. These will require a lot more finesse since I plan on taking these to a new level.
Its been crazy the past few weeks running up and down the east coast, working, and breaking the car
There is a meet this weekend, so I wont be able to get to them until Sunday hopefully. The new plan will mean that this will take much longer then the first set - which I banged out over two days. These will require a lot more finesse since I plan on taking these to a new level.
Tyler all of your posts in this thread have seemed a bit homosexual. Keep it to a minimum before I have Steven Bell give you the ban hammer.
Anyways, Morgan have a safe trip down! Where are you staying? I'm leaving Saturday morning with another guy here in the Raleigh/Cary area.
Anyways, Morgan have a safe trip down! Where are you staying? I'm leaving Saturday morning with another guy here in the Raleigh/Cary area.
I was going to stay down the block from the meet but instead I am just going to wake my ass up early Saturday morning and drive down (Im doing everything to cut costs so I can get that transmission sooner). What time are you guys leaving Raleigh? I might as well meet up with you and caravan down.
Diff bearings are shot and my 1-2 gear synchros are not far behind. Itll be the quickest way to fix it. I had the 3rd gear synchros and diff bearings replaced when the engine was built.
The CL is the beater. The weekend warriors are:
And Ill be adding something else to the stable within the year. The Civic may or may not be finished. If someone buys the engine for it, I'll get rid of everything. If not, Im going to slap it together this winter and have fun with it for a year or two.
And Ill be adding something else to the stable within the year. The Civic may or may not be finished. If someone buys the engine for it, I'll get rid of everything. If not, Im going to slap it together this winter and have fun with it for a year or two.
Last edited by civicdrivr; Sep 29, 2011 at 12:02 AM.
Baller of Uni
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 511
From: Nashville, TN
Tyler all of your posts in this thread have seemed a bit homosexual. Keep it to a minimum before I have Steven Bell give you the ban hammer.
Anyways, Morgan have a safe trip down! Where are you staying? I'm leaving Saturday morning with another guy here in the Raleigh/Cary area.
Anyways, Morgan have a safe trip down! Where are you staying? I'm leaving Saturday morning with another guy here in the Raleigh/Cary area.
Morgan what chassis/motor Civic do you have?
1990 Civic hatch / K20Z3
These pics are from about two years ago, and the red stuff is primer, not rust.
Goal weight = 1850lbs wet
Based on others with similar setups, it should be good for mid to high 11s with slicks and a good launch.
These pics are from about two years ago, and the red stuff is primer, not rust.
Goal weight = 1850lbs wet
Based on others with similar setups, it should be good for mid to high 11s with slicks and a good launch.
Ill try to get them from my friend.
I absolutely love them. Worth every penny. Its been quite some time since I drop on a stock suspension. They are smoother, more composed then the KSports and not as stiff. But they are definitely stiffer then the Neuspeed Supercups.
Regarding my shitty weekend in NY:
The passenger side axle has been replaced but the driver side (which is the worst one) cannot be removed. The driver side strut fork bolt is frozen in the lower control arm and I can get it out. I hit it with the air hammer and impact and still couldnt break it loose. So Ive got to limp it back to VA from NY in hopes that it is just the axle. Im stopping by Pauls so he can take a look and hopefully break the bolt loose. Worst case - I cut the bolt and replace the lower control arm - which I would have done already if I were home because I have two brand new lower control arms sitting at the house waiting to go in.
If its the diff bearings, Im fucked. Thats $$$ in labor to replace a $30 part.
Its difficult to say if its the diff bearings though because there is a shitload of movement on that side of the tranny 
I absolutely love them. Worth every penny. Its been quite some time since I drop on a stock suspension. They are smoother, more composed then the KSports and not as stiff. But they are definitely stiffer then the Neuspeed Supercups.
Regarding my shitty weekend in NY:
The passenger side axle has been replaced but the driver side (which is the worst one) cannot be removed. The driver side strut fork bolt is frozen in the lower control arm and I can get it out. I hit it with the air hammer and impact and still couldnt break it loose. So Ive got to limp it back to VA from NY in hopes that it is just the axle. Im stopping by Pauls so he can take a look and hopefully break the bolt loose. Worst case - I cut the bolt and replace the lower control arm - which I would have done already if I were home because I have two brand new lower control arms sitting at the house waiting to go in.
If its the diff bearings, Im fucked. Thats $$$ in labor to replace a $30 part.
Its difficult to say if its the diff bearings though because there is a shitload of movement on that side of the tranny any problems with their customer service/support after the sale?
NA. The engine already has a mild build - 70mm BDL throttle body, milled and lightly ported RBC intake, Blueprint stage 3 cams, valve springs, and tuned with a K-Pro. Its all set for high comp pistons but Im probably not going to do that.
Its going to look very stock on the outside, very similar to my old 88 Civic:
But it'll have 15x7" wheels, painted white with black bumpers, and lexan rear windows. Its going to have a CF Si-R style hood to clear the engine, and possibly CF fenders and hatch (painted body color).
The interior will consist of two seats.
Its going to look very stock on the outside, very similar to my old 88 Civic:
But it'll have 15x7" wheels, painted white with black bumpers, and lexan rear windows. Its going to have a CF Si-R style hood to clear the engine, and possibly CF fenders and hatch (painted body color).
The interior will consist of two seats.
You might as well convert that thing to rwd. I know it's a big job, but you've already stripped it out to the frame anyway, and It would be so much more efficient for a dedicated race car. You would have something that is barely heard of. You have all of that room in the back right now to weld in a rear frame to support a rear end. This may be a different chassis than yours (not sure), but same concept:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9Xhw...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9Xhw...eature=related
The thought crossed my mind, but then I would have to redo the $1k+ cage and Id rather not do that. It would be cool.
A north-south engine wouldnt fit under my hood though. The K20 is angled back enough that the SiR hood barely clears with the webbing cut out. Thats also the reason I had to have my intake manifold flange milled at an angle so it will clear.
A north-south engine wouldnt fit under my hood though. The K20 is angled back enough that the SiR hood barely clears with the webbing cut out. Thats also the reason I had to have my intake manifold flange milled at an angle so it will clear.
Last edited by civicdrivr; Sep 29, 2011 at 04:09 PM.
The K series is actually a better motor then the F, not to mention aftermarket parts are plentiful. There was a guy in Colorado (I think) that put a K24 into his S2k using an adapter plate he designed. He sold all his F series stuff and did the swap for ~$3k out of pocket and put down more power at the wheels with less mods then his F did. He did lose the 9k rpm redline though. The torque gain was worth it though.
And I can't wait until I finish it either. Hopefully some time this decade
And I can't wait until I finish it either. Hopefully some time this decade
