I’m considering buying a 2012 with about 90K. Yes, No? Why? Why not?

I definitely remember reading in CR that they do not recommend some years.

Thanks for whatever help you can provide.

 

Some folks sell their MDX around the 100K mark because they don't want to pay for the 105K service that may include if the MDX is behind on service of: timing belt, spark plugs, anti-freeze, water pump, valve adjustment, serpentine belt/tensioner, power steering flush, brake flush, etc... It was around $1700 at my dealership from my 11 MDX for the 105K service. You can cut that price in 1/3 or 1/2 if you can DYI.

The biggest issues with the 10-13 MDXs are magnetic shock/struts for the ADS system for the Advance models only and oil consumption issue for all models. Acura does offer an extended warranty for both. I'm only about 1 quart between my 8000-9000 miles oil changes. Some folks are 1 quart or more per 1000 miles. I also have the Advance model and both my front and rear magnetic shocks/struts were replaced under warranty (I have 130K now).

It can be very hard to determine the oil consumption (all models) or magnetic shock/struts issue on a short test drive. Add those issue for another reason for someone trading in a +10 MDX.

 

Most likely the avoid years are those of the first gen MDX as they have horrible reliability issues on the first years.
As far as the Beak 2G 2010-2013 AFAIK the biggest consumer complaint is the less than ideal shift behavior of the 6 Speedo.

 

The only special thing I would definitely do is the timing belt. Some of the other things are part of routine maintenance (brake fluid, coolant, etc). Replace the water pump, plugs, serpentine belt, etc, as and when needed - dealers usually tell you to change the water pump because they have it all disassembled when the change the timing belt (and it put more money in their pocket).

 

The only special thing I would definitely do is the timing belt. Some of the other things are part of routine maintenance (brake fluid, coolant, etc). Replace the water pump, plugs, serpentine belt, etc, as and when needed - dealers usually tell you to change the water pump because they have it all disassembled when the change the timing belt (and it put more money in their pocket). The valves shouldn't need adjusted unless there's a problem or symptom.