P0420 error code in Winter?
P0420 error code in Winter?
I have this pop up sporadically, when it is cold outside the past couple of years and it goes away and never presents itself in the summer. I am thinking if it was a cat issue, it would not be as temperamental. I am wondering if it is a winter gas mix they use up here in NY? Ever since I have owned it 44k miles I have used 87 Octane. I am around 137k right now and have seen it for the past ~10-20k miles. While I love this vehicle, I am getting annoyed at what I am having to do fix it. I am planning on selling it in a few months and getting a F-150. I wonder if I should have just ditched it when the tranny went out last year ><. I don't want to put much money into as there is no way I will get it back out.
A couple suggestions I have read:
1) Try higher octane fuel
2) Try seafoam
3) P0420 issue is more likely to be Cat failure. If it is a cat failure the Aftermarket cats are not as good as OEM.
I do have a couple questions:
1) Is there a way to test the 02 sensors?
2) Is there a way to confirm the cat is shot? It looks like it would be difficult to remove.
Thanks in advance!
A couple suggestions I have read:
1) Try higher octane fuel
2) Try seafoam
3) P0420 issue is more likely to be Cat failure. If it is a cat failure the Aftermarket cats are not as good as OEM.
I do have a couple questions:
1) Is there a way to test the 02 sensors?
2) Is there a way to confirm the cat is shot? It looks like it would be difficult to remove.
Thanks in advance!
Yeah "Ever since I have owned it 44k miles I have used 87 Octane" that is the reason why its failing, Did you missed the label in the gas cap that said PREMIUM Fuel Only
?
More likely its a 02 Sensor going bad sometimes they throw a code for Cat Failure but that is unlikely.. 02 Sensor might be fouled by the use of Regular, The only way to test them is with an Expensive OBDII Scanner that shows the Voltage on the Sensors.. Take it to an electric shop and they will diagnose in no time, If the Cat has indeed failed it will smell like rotten eggs on start up and the car will feel very sluggish (apart from the bogging of using Regular).
?More likely its a 02 Sensor going bad sometimes they throw a code for Cat Failure but that is unlikely.. 02 Sensor might be fouled by the use of Regular, The only way to test them is with an Expensive OBDII Scanner that shows the Voltage on the Sensors.. Take it to an electric shop and they will diagnose in no time, If the Cat has indeed failed it will smell like rotten eggs on start up and the car will feel very sluggish (apart from the bogging of using Regular).
It wasn't until the 3rd gen MDX that was "Recommended" when they went back to the J35.
i was giving him the benefit of the doubt
P0420 GENERALLY is cat failure... hopefully in your case it's only a matter of fouled up o2 sensor but you're not doing yourself any favors by running suboptimal octane gas..
P0420 GENERALLY is cat failure... hopefully in your case it's only a matter of fouled up o2 sensor but you're not doing yourself any favors by running suboptimal octane gas..
Forgot to mention 2005 Acura MDX Touring
According to the manual and someone at Acura, the use of 87 is not required, but it is recommended to use a higher octane as it would get better MPG and HP.
A couple weeks ago I reset my it and I looked at the Fuel Trims with a friends OBDII scanner I borrowed. I did this for 1.5mins and recorded it for posterity.
The Long term trims were averaging around the following:
B1: .8 to 1.6
B2: -.8 to -1.6
The Short term trims were a little different.
B1: Peaked at 13 and hit 11 twice, though came back down stayed in the single digits, though a couple 1-2 higher than B2.
B2: Peaked at 5.5, though normally low digits
From what little I know it looks like the short term bank 1 is running more lean than bank 2. How hard is it to change the O2 sensor and what is the PN? I do change my brakes, I just don't know if I have time to take apart the whole car to get to one sensor.
According to the manual and someone at Acura, the use of 87 is not required, but it is recommended to use a higher octane as it would get better MPG and HP.
A couple weeks ago I reset my it and I looked at the Fuel Trims with a friends OBDII scanner I borrowed. I did this for 1.5mins and recorded it for posterity.
The Long term trims were averaging around the following:
B1: .8 to 1.6
B2: -.8 to -1.6
The Short term trims were a little different.
B1: Peaked at 13 and hit 11 twice, though came back down stayed in the single digits, though a couple 1-2 higher than B2.
B2: Peaked at 5.5, though normally low digits
From what little I know it looks like the short term bank 1 is running more lean than bank 2. How hard is it to change the O2 sensor and what is the PN? I do change my brakes, I just don't know if I have time to take apart the whole car to get to one sensor.
Another thing to note, I have been having this issue for the past 3 winters, it seems to get slightly worst each year, though that could be me just being crazy. I just noticed not to long ago what sounds like harmonic resonance when I accelerate, like a heat shield or metallic rattle. I don't recall hearing it the past couple of years.
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In the past 4 days the CEL went off and came on twice by itself. I filled my tank up yesterday morning, I will try it with premium, what octane do you guys suggest? It was off after I got out of work, when I was half way into the drive this morning the light came on, it is mid 30s right now.
Yeah, when I try to lookup posts on intermittent p0420 in cold weather, I see a lot of questions and suggestions, though people always forget to follow up to say "hey it worked", or "replaced the cat".
No egg smells, it smells just like it always has. I think I will try some injector cleaner and some higher octane gas.
No, I live in NY, where everything is illegal.
If the injector and octane don't work, I will look into switching the O2 sensors. Any idea what O2 sensor I should change first? I read that some nicer OBDII scanners can read voltage of sensors. I have also read that some people just remove it use a torch to heat it up and read the voltage. I like to do as much as I can as shops just like to replace everything.
No, I live in NY, where everything is illegal.
If the injector and octane don't work, I will look into switching the O2 sensors. Any idea what O2 sensor I should change first? I read that some nicer OBDII scanners can read voltage of sensors. I have also read that some people just remove it use a torch to heat it up and read the voltage. I like to do as much as I can as shops just like to replace everything.
The concept of the heat torch is to sort 'clean' the O2 sensor because the thought is maybe it's funked up and not reading voltage properly. It's worth a shot. It would be bank 2 (post cat) that is reporting the cat below efficiency (P0420) code.
What I would do in your shoes is continue with top tier 91/93 octane gas (forget about the octane booster snake oil)
Pop off the O2 sensor and torch it up. Reset the code , drive and see if it fixes it.
One way to 'test' the catalytic converter is to knock it to see if you hear any loose media. That's indicative of cat failure.
(CA here so I feel your pain
) my last car had a p0420 and the only fix was the cat. I didn't bother replacing the O2 sensor, but did go OEM. They definitely last significantly longer than aftermarket . Get new exhaust gaskets with it and maybe bolts depending on if yours are rusted
What I would do in your shoes is continue with top tier 91/93 octane gas (forget about the octane booster snake oil)
Pop off the O2 sensor and torch it up. Reset the code , drive and see if it fixes it.
One way to 'test' the catalytic converter is to knock it to see if you hear any loose media. That's indicative of cat failure.
(CA here so I feel your pain
The concept of the heat torch is to sort 'clean' the O2 sensor because the thought is maybe it's funked up and not reading voltage properly. It's worth a shot. It would be bank 2 (post cat) that is reporting the cat below efficiency (P0420) code.
What I would do in your shoes is continue with top tier 91/93 octane gas (forget about the octane booster snake oil)
Pop off the O2 sensor and torch it up. Reset the code , drive and see if it fixes it.
One way to 'test' the catalytic converter is to knock it to see if you hear any loose media. That's indicative of cat failure.
(CA here so I feel your pain
) my last car had a p0420 and the only fix was the cat. I didn't bother replacing the O2 sensor, but did go OEM. They definitely last significantly longer than aftermarket . Get new exhaust gaskets with it and maybe bolts depending on if yours are rusted
What I would do in your shoes is continue with top tier 91/93 octane gas (forget about the octane booster snake oil)
Pop off the O2 sensor and torch it up. Reset the code , drive and see if it fixes it.
One way to 'test' the catalytic converter is to knock it to see if you hear any loose media. That's indicative of cat failure.
(CA here so I feel your pain
Honda/Acura vehicles are spot on when it comes to a 420 or 430 code. 9 out of 10 times you will need to replace your cat and it won't be an lambda sensor or secondary oxygen sensor.
The cats are of a non-continuous monitor which means that the program in charge of monitoring the efficiency of the cats does its tests only when the right parameters and criterias are present. Every make and model has it owns distinctive parameters.
I have seen vehicles where the cat monitor took weeks to set, specifically when the driver only commuted 5-10 minutes to work and back where the rest of the time the vehicle just sat. The program didn't have enough sample data to complete its final efficiency tests because the driving parameters were not met due to driving habits of the owner.
Cats love heat as this is when everything gets to work, normal operating temps can vary from 1200-1600 F. A degraded cat which is on the edge of failing may barely pass missing the DTC threshold in the summer, whereas in the winter it just cannot meet the standards due to colder temps.
The cats are of a non-continuous monitor which means that the program in charge of monitoring the efficiency of the cats does its tests only when the right parameters and criterias are present. Every make and model has it owns distinctive parameters.
I have seen vehicles where the cat monitor took weeks to set, specifically when the driver only commuted 5-10 minutes to work and back where the rest of the time the vehicle just sat. The program didn't have enough sample data to complete its final efficiency tests because the driving parameters were not met due to driving habits of the owner.
Cats love heat as this is when everything gets to work, normal operating temps can vary from 1200-1600 F. A degraded cat which is on the edge of failing may barely pass missing the DTC threshold in the summer, whereas in the winter it just cannot meet the standards due to colder temps.
Honda/Acura vehicles are spot on when it comes to a 420 or 430 code. 9 out of 10 times you will need to replace your cat and it won't be an lambda sensor or secondary oxygen sensor.
The cats are of a non-continuous monitor which means that the program in charge of monitoring the efficiency of the cats does its tests only when the right parameters and criterias are present. Every make and model has it owns distinctive parameters.
I have seen vehicles where the cat monitor took weeks to set, specifically when the driver only commuted 5-10 minutes to work and back where the rest of the time the vehicle just sat. The program didn't have enough sample data to complete its final efficiency tests because the driving parameters were not met due to driving habits of the owner.
Cats love heat as this is when everything gets to work, normal operating temps can vary from 1200-1600 F. A degraded cat which is on the edge of failing may barely pass missing the DTC threshold in the summer, whereas in the winter it just cannot meet the standards due to colder temps.
The cats are of a non-continuous monitor which means that the program in charge of monitoring the efficiency of the cats does its tests only when the right parameters and criterias are present. Every make and model has it owns distinctive parameters.
I have seen vehicles where the cat monitor took weeks to set, specifically when the driver only commuted 5-10 minutes to work and back where the rest of the time the vehicle just sat. The program didn't have enough sample data to complete its final efficiency tests because the driving parameters were not met due to driving habits of the owner.
Cats love heat as this is when everything gets to work, normal operating temps can vary from 1200-1600 F. A degraded cat which is on the edge of failing may barely pass missing the DTC threshold in the summer, whereas in the winter it just cannot meet the standards due to colder temps.
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