Fair cost for brakes

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Old 07-16-2011, 07:32 PM
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Fair cost for brakes

'06 with just 24K original brakes told by dealer all pads down to 4mm and will need new pads, machine front rotors, new rear rotors at next servicing to the tune of $800. Will get another opinion and estimate from a reliable local mechanic over next couple mos. as this seems a bit high.
Old 07-16-2011, 08:45 PM
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well that's dealer pricing for you. pad install $200 for front, rotor resurface and reinstall $200, rear rotors $200 (parts), install $200. time for a 2nd opinion. your other option is to buy the parts and then bring them to the dealer to install. parts will be cheaper online (aftermarket or OEM) than at the dealer.

if you have any service history with your dealer...then they may not be full of BS. if its spotty, then beware.

the dealer price is their "book price". so yes its ridiculously high.
Old 07-17-2011, 09:06 PM
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You should pass on exploited dealer $800 and expect $200 for semi metalic at any good independent shop and $300 for ceramic.
New Rotors in rear another $100 but why new is the question that needs answer ....

Last edited by EL_PIC; 07-17-2011 at 09:18 PM.
Old 07-18-2011, 12:34 PM
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Steve,

$800 seems like a fair price for a dealer to charge but most assuredly is exorbitant when compared to the price a reputable and independent Acura shop would charge. I would advise getting your brake parts from a cheap Acura parts site (many of them sell pad kits for under $50) and then taking your MDX to the independent Acura shop of your choice. Out-the-door, you could probably have the same brake job performed for $500-650
Old 07-18-2011, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by steve
'06 with just 24K original brakes told by dealer all pads down to 4mm and will need new pads, machine front rotors, new rear rotors at next servicing to the tune of $800. Will get another opinion and estimate from a reliable local mechanic over next couple mos. as this seems a bit high.

All 4 pads down to 4mm? That seems odd with only 24K miles. I can understand the front's but not the rears. Are you getting a VERY loud squeel when you brake? If yes then that means your pads are worn down and will need replacement soon.

Brake pads have a metal tab that's 3mm long and attaches to the back of the pad. When there's 3mm left on the pad material it hits the rotor and causes a VERY loud and distinct noise when you brake. FYI the brakes are good down to even 1.5mm left according to the service manual so there isn't a need to fork out money at this moment unless you are getting the squeal.

Are you getting a vibration at high speeds (60+) when ONLY braking? If no, then you don't need new rotors for sure and as well probably don't need them cut either. Cutting them isn't a good option because it makes the rotor thinner and more prone to warping and causing other issues.
Old 07-19-2011, 07:54 PM
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Supposedly all 4 pads down to 4mm (probably should have asked to look at them). Mainly do around town driving but was never hard on brakes in any car I have owned. No noise at all when braking and no vibrations, pulsing, etc. However, fully agree with you about replacing a rotor instead of cutting it. Went the latter route in a car yrs ago and was sorry. I will definitely go to my local mechanics who have always been honest and let them inspect the brakes and I'm sure will be less money. Only reason I still go to dealer at all is the lifetime free oil changes (which I get in the MDX and my '03 TLS). Of course that is their way to drum up business.
Old 07-21-2011, 01:37 PM
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Sounds like a total upsell, stealership FTL. They tried upselling a brake job on me twice, once after new pads were installed. They even pulled the 'ole, "you need to sign a waiver before driving out because your brakes are so bad."

fucking assholes.. first time I believed them so I drove home and bought new pads & bf. I had 6mm on the fronts from the stiker tab.. they didn't even look. More than likely your rotors are fine too.

My suggestion, go buy some CMAX pads from AutoZone, replace the pads, don't touch the rotors unless they are visibly warped. With the rotor cool you can touch the surface and feel for significant grooves.. if it feels fairly smooth, don't touch them. You are due for BF change if you haven't already.. BF is time sensitive not mileage.
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