electronic suspension mdx
#2
The front complete (loaded) assy part numbers are:
Right side 51605-stx-365 $873.45, after 32% internet discount.
Left side 51602-stx-365 $873.45, also
If you want just the front shock/strut:
Right side 51605-stx-365 $727.03, after the 32% internet discount
Left side 51606-stx-365 $727.03, also
The rears shocks have the same part number:
52610-stx-365 $448.00, after the 32% internet discount.
Shipping will be under $200, but you might find a dealer selling the last of his inventory, on ebay, with free shipping.
Many switch to the non-electronic shocks. All four for, under $700. A few extra needed steps in the install process, but no big deal.
Right side 51605-stx-365 $873.45, after 32% internet discount.
Left side 51602-stx-365 $873.45, also
If you want just the front shock/strut:
Right side 51605-stx-365 $727.03, after the 32% internet discount
Left side 51606-stx-365 $727.03, also
The rears shocks have the same part number:
52610-stx-365 $448.00, after the 32% internet discount.
Shipping will be under $200, but you might find a dealer selling the last of his inventory, on ebay, with free shipping.
Many switch to the non-electronic shocks. All four for, under $700. A few extra needed steps in the install process, but no big deal.
#5
mrgold35
The real downside with replacing the magnetic strut/shock system is they can fail at anytime. My fronts went out at 35,000 miles on my 11 MDX Adv and they were replaced under warranty. I'm at 108,000 miles and the suspension doesn't feel as tight as before in sport mode. I suspect the ADS is on its way out; but, I don't have the usual knocking, sagging, bounciness, or leaking yet. You could replace the magnetic suspension system with OEM parts and it could last +100,000 miles or start to fail next year.
So far, folks that converted from ADS to regular struts/shock said it was worth doing and I've haven't seen any complaints in downgrade in ride quality or handling (the MDX Sport models have a larger front/rear stabilizer bars that help in handling or the base/tech versions).
So far, folks that converted from ADS to regular struts/shock said it was worth doing and I've haven't seen any complaints in downgrade in ride quality or handling (the MDX Sport models have a larger front/rear stabilizer bars that help in handling or the base/tech versions).
#7
Electronic shocks installed at a dealership will have a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty.
You pay them, just under $5,000 and the shocks, will most likely, last you around 80,000 miles, but some have blown out at 35,000 miles.
Converting/Changing the electronic shocks, for under $750, is not hard.
Turn on the engine and look at the dash, whole you put your shock system in to the Sport mode.
Turn off the engine.
Disconnect your battery.
Never ever touch the Sport/Comfort button again.
Remove the electronic shocks, (you have to unplug their connector).
Insert a resistor across each plug and tape it up.
Front uses a 5 ohm, from Mouser #71-cp00105r000je14
Rear uses a 2 ohm, from Mouser #71-cp00102r000ke14
In the future, if you try to use the electronic shock system, by pressing the Comfort button, you will confuse your computer and you will get a warning code.
There is a sequence to clear it, which includes:
Start the engine.
Look at the dash while you put the system in to Sport mode.
Turn off the engine.
Remove the battery cables
Un-tape all 4 resistors.
Reconnect the battery
Start the engine.
Turn off the engine.
Wait 10 minutes
Disconnect the battery
Tape the resistors back in place
Connect the battery.
Do not change the position of the Sport/Comfort button. While my battery was disconnected, I pulled the Comfort button out and unplugged it, so no one could accidentally press it again and confuse the computer.
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wilspainar (02-01-2019)
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#8
Warranty = YES.
Electronic shocks installed at a dealership will have a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty.
You pay them, just under $5,000 and the shocks, will most likely, last you around 80,000 miles, but some have blown out at 35,000 miles.
Converting/Changing the electronic shocks, for under $750, is not hard.
Turn on the engine and look at the dash, whole you put your shock system in to the Sport mode.
Turn off the engine.
Disconnect your battery.
Never ever touch the Sport/Comfort button again.
Remove the electronic shocks, (you have to unplug their connector).
Insert a resistor across each plug and tape it up.
Front uses a 5 ohm, from Mouser #71-cp00105r000je14
Rear uses a 2 ohm, from Mouser #71-cp00102r000ke14
In the future, if you try to use the electronic shock system, by pressing the Comfort button, you will confuse your computer and you will get a warning code.
There is a sequence to clear it, which includes:
Start the engine.
Look at the dash while you put the system in to Sport mode.
Turn off the engine.
Remove the battery cables
Un-tape all 4 resistors.
Reconnect the battery
Start the engine.
Turn off the engine.
Wait 10 minutes
Disconnect the battery
Tape the resistors back in place
Connect the battery.
Do not change the position of the Sport/Comfort button. While my battery was disconnected, I pulled the Comfort button out and unplugged it, so no one could accidentally press it again and confuse the computer.
Electronic shocks installed at a dealership will have a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty.
You pay them, just under $5,000 and the shocks, will most likely, last you around 80,000 miles, but some have blown out at 35,000 miles.
Converting/Changing the electronic shocks, for under $750, is not hard.
Turn on the engine and look at the dash, whole you put your shock system in to the Sport mode.
Turn off the engine.
Disconnect your battery.
Never ever touch the Sport/Comfort button again.
Remove the electronic shocks, (you have to unplug their connector).
Insert a resistor across each plug and tape it up.
Front uses a 5 ohm, from Mouser #71-cp00105r000je14
Rear uses a 2 ohm, from Mouser #71-cp00102r000ke14
In the future, if you try to use the electronic shock system, by pressing the Comfort button, you will confuse your computer and you will get a warning code.
There is a sequence to clear it, which includes:
Start the engine.
Look at the dash while you put the system in to Sport mode.
Turn off the engine.
Remove the battery cables
Un-tape all 4 resistors.
Reconnect the battery
Start the engine.
Turn off the engine.
Wait 10 minutes
Disconnect the battery
Tape the resistors back in place
Connect the battery.
Do not change the position of the Sport/Comfort button. While my battery was disconnected, I pulled the Comfort button out and unplugged it, so no one could accidentally press it again and confuse the computer.
#9
I posted the list for my 2nd gen 2007 and have not researched the mdx gen 2.5
Go to an Acura online parts dealer and look up your 2011 Sport model, Find the "category" drop down, then look at the "chassis" section for electronic shocks parts photos. Now change vehicles to a non sport "Base" model, find those same photos and look at their part numbers.
Converting from Sport front shocks to Base front will require you to purchase the complete front Base model's assy and not just the shock, because the Base's shock is a different diameter and it will not fit in the Sport's assy body (for the fronts only).
Try these online dealers, which I have used in the past (I'm always searching and comparing cheaper "shipping" fees, because the prices are within pennies of each other):
oemacuraparts dot com Phoenix
newoempartsonline dot com Savanh, GA
acurapartsforless dot com New Jersey
acuraexpressparts dot com Chicago
macchurchill dot com Ft Worth
bernardiparts dot com Boston
Go to an Acura online parts dealer and look up your 2011 Sport model, Find the "category" drop down, then look at the "chassis" section for electronic shocks parts photos. Now change vehicles to a non sport "Base" model, find those same photos and look at their part numbers.
Converting from Sport front shocks to Base front will require you to purchase the complete front Base model's assy and not just the shock, because the Base's shock is a different diameter and it will not fit in the Sport's assy body (for the fronts only).
Try these online dealers, which I have used in the past (I'm always searching and comparing cheaper "shipping" fees, because the prices are within pennies of each other):
oemacuraparts dot com Phoenix
newoempartsonline dot com Savanh, GA
acurapartsforless dot com New Jersey
acuraexpressparts dot com Chicago
macchurchill dot com Ft Worth
bernardiparts dot com Boston
#10
mrgold35
My 11 MDX ADV is at Acura for the 105K service. I told them again about how the ADS seems to be getting softer and wanted them to double-check the system again. Turns out the rear ADS is starting to leak and needed to be replaced. I'm pretty much close to breaking even on my Acura care 5yr/120K warranty with this replacement (both seat heaters and rear ADS shocks). I just need the fronts to fail in the next 12,000 miles to get ahead in the game.
#11
I posted the list for my 2nd gen 2007 and have not researched the mdx gen 2.5
Go to an Acura online parts dealer and look up your 2011 Sport model, Find the "category" drop down, then look at the "chassis" section for electronic shocks parts photos. Now change vehicles to a non sport "Base" model, find those same photos and look at their part numbers.
Converting from Sport front shocks to Base front will require you to purchase the complete front Base model's assy and not just the shock, because the Base's shock is a different diameter and it will not fit in the Sport's assy body (for the fronts only).
Try these online dealers, which I have used in the past (I'm always searching and comparing cheaper "shipping" fees, because the prices are within pennies of each other):
oemacuraparts dot com Phoenix
newoempartsonline dot com Savanh, GA
acurapartsforless dot com New Jersey
acuraexpressparts dot com Chicago
macchurchill dot com Ft Worth
bernardiparts dot com Boston
Go to an Acura online parts dealer and look up your 2011 Sport model, Find the "category" drop down, then look at the "chassis" section for electronic shocks parts photos. Now change vehicles to a non sport "Base" model, find those same photos and look at their part numbers.
Converting from Sport front shocks to Base front will require you to purchase the complete front Base model's assy and not just the shock, because the Base's shock is a different diameter and it will not fit in the Sport's assy body (for the fronts only).
Try these online dealers, which I have used in the past (I'm always searching and comparing cheaper "shipping" fees, because the prices are within pennies of each other):
oemacuraparts dot com Phoenix
newoempartsonline dot com Savanh, GA
acurapartsforless dot com New Jersey
acuraexpressparts dot com Chicago
macchurchill dot com Ft Worth
bernardiparts dot com Boston
How I can know the measure fit in my sport model?
#15
#16
https://www.strutmasters.com/product...ht-out-module/
Hope this helps.
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mrgold35 (04-09-2018)
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