imperceptible difference...
you can change weight, run synthetic or non synthetic, and you wouldnt know the difference.
you could even mix oils and make a gumbo if you had lots of open bottles in the garage.
the car wouldnt care, and you would not even tell.

 

I've gone back to using regular oil because it was leaking. I did synthetic for a while, but after seeing the RMS leak, I said well, I'm not going to waste money on that, so I ran a thicker viscosity and it seemed to have slowed/stopped the dripping for now.

True, but I tend to not do this on my wife's car... my $500 TL, yea, this happens lol.

 

So, the AC seems to be acting up. I swapped the AC clutch relay and thought the issue was fixed. Yesterday, while driving the AC was blowing ice cold for about 45 mins. After that, I raised the temp a bit (kids were complaining) and then I noticed the AC seemed to stop working on one side (driver side) and the other was working (passenger side). My kids touched the rear control and it was blowing ice cold. All of a sudden, I said turn it off, and now the front seemed to be working both sides.

When I got home, I verified the AC clutch engages and disengages when I turn on/off from inside. I also verified both fans turn on/off as well. When I turned it on, AC was cold.

Today, my wife drives and tells me the driver side was blowing warm air, but the passenger side was cool. Temperature was set the same for both sides. Anyone else experience this? I don't think it's the relays.

 

No such experience so far.

 

main thing is good oil and with the 2010-2013 models that you don't run extended intervals longer than 5K miles. Mobil 1 extended performance or regular from walmart on sale (5 quart jug) of 5W-20 or 5W30 and you'll be all set. You can also use a fram XG (gold color, black bottom) filter to help ensure good filtration at a great price.

 

I confirmed the aix/mix motor under the driver side has failed. I was able to remove and and take it apart, clean and reassemble and it still doesn't work. Going to try and pick one up tomorrow. Here is the failed part for SA.

 

Finally had time to install the new air mix motor that I ordered from Delray Acura today. All seems to be well with it working again, so hopefully the AC issue is resolved. Here's a few pics on how the MDX is holding up!


Had to rent a 5'x8' open trailer to donate a trampoline to a friend last week. Forget how useful the hitch is at times.

Had the kids close out this weekend washing the cars. This time I stepped back and let them have at it with some minor supervision.

In the process of building a pool in the backyard, so that's been the focus and there's dirt everywhere.

 

Completed a B13 service at 168,8892 miles before a road trip to Atlanta to visit family. MDX is still holding strong.

Popped the hood to check things out before driving back yesterday and noticed 3 of the 4 bolts for the airbox were snapped. Made a quick temp solution to keep the top part of the intake from lifting from my dad's misc bolts and nuts.


Top view.

DIY... gets the job done until I get home.

Quick shots before we hit the road again

 

So, finally decided to rotate the tires since the front tire tread has worn down significantly compared to the rear. One of my lug nuts were cross tread on the rear driver side. Upon removing, it stripped the lug.





The lug is trashed. Almost want to go complain to Discount Tire, but it's been so long and this is my first rotation since they installed it. Anyone know if I can replace a single lug?

 

you can replace a single lug, I'd say go to a LKQ or ask someone at the local acura/honda dealer. Most cars have the wheel locks put on and the dealership ends up with 4 lugs they usually throw away.

 

Excellent to read! Will give it a try. Was planning on working on my TL this weekend.

 

question, is the stud stripped? If yes, you can replace the stud but it'll be a fun time; you use a puller to pull the hub out if I remember correctly to access the backside

 

Yes, the stud is completely stripped and the nut is trashed too. Probably won't replace until I need tires. Contemplating replacing bearings as well. The MDX will have ~180K miles on it by then

 

FYI, these are all the same bearing unit:

Mevotech, Moog, raybestos and AC Delco, just labeled differently.

I would go with Timken or SKF personally.

 

Scheduled an appointment for 24 Jun with my indy shop for a A125 service. Owner said he'll verify if there is any play in the hub and if all is well, he can just change the stud.

I'm getting annoyed with the howling noise, so I may go ahead and order new tires as well.

 

Service B16 at my indy shop in progress.



Few leaks identified (transmission output seals and oil pan gasket). Passed for now and will address next service.

In other news, my RSX is alive. Heard it running for the first time since Oct 2019.

 

So, the MDX has been going strong until a few weeks ago. The driver side window stopped working. I ended up checking fuses and all other windows worked except the driver side off the master switch.

I removed the door panel and took the switch off. Took it apart, cleaned it, put it back together and it still didn't work. Decided to order a new one online from the local dealer and 5 days later, ordered on Amazon so I can't put the door back together.

I installed the new switch and it STILL didn't work. Now I'm scratching my head because I hear it clicking, just not moving. Ripped the padding to see if I can see anything else. Decided to put the door together and take it to the dealer.

Next day, I Googled again and learned about resetting the power window by disconnecting the battery. I disconnected the battery for 10 mins and then reconnect. Turned car on and voila!

pro tip: disconnect battery first! Could have saved $180, but the old switch was a bit worn looking.

 

Ended up selling my 11 MDX Adv+Ent with +155,000 miles to my nephew in Jan/23. His family is expecting their second kid and their Honda Civic is too small for today's oversized baby gear for two kids. It was in excellent shape, perfect working condition, and oil consumption was only 1.5 qts per 9000 miles. I was only putting 3500 miles per year on it since the pandemic lockdown. I do have a 19 MDX Adv Sport since new with +44,000 miles now and you won't be disappointed in the 18-20 MDX in base, tech, adv, Aspec (19-20 MY only), or hybrid forms if you want to upgrade.

 

Very clean! I've been eyeing newer vehicles, but at the same time, I tend to drive my vehicles until the wheels fall off. Just my luck, bad things happen in threes. I caught a flat yesterday driving my in laws around in the X. So, I'm heading to my indy shop tomorrow to get 2 new tires and an alignment (2 tires were replaced with my last oil change along with wheel bearings all around).

The 3rd issue is I just caught my K24a in my RSX is leaking oil (just got that vehicle running again in Jan 23). So I have 3 vehicles all leaking and my driveway is paying the price

 

X was serviced at 192,072 miles. Completed the A1 service, new tires, wheel alignment, rear brake pads, and oil pan replacement (trying to fix leaks). Tires were showing signs of significant wear on the inside and cupping.


Back home... drive is way smoother according to the Mrs. She's happy again

 

Still rolling strong. Had to replace the drive side power window assembly in September. The X is leaking more hence the cardboard underneath it. Started ticking last month during startup, so it's time for valve adjustments again. Plan to do it with the next service.

 

So, decided to do a multi state road trip with the family and the MDX after hitting 200K miles about 2 weeks ago. Oil life is about 40%, so figured to do the road trip (FL, GA, TN, NC, SC, and back to FL) and then do maintenance when I get back home.

The oil leak has gotten worse and now drips on the exhaust more causing the burning smell. The MDX also needs the valve adjustment. Are there any other recommendations I should consider? I did the 105K service (TB, etc), and the engine was rebuilt under the oil consumption ~128K miles in 2019.

 

Depending on who will do this work - DIY or a repair shop?

I did this on mine after 200k miles and the list of jobs included removing the oil pan, removing the timing belt, removing the water pump, removing the timing belt pulleys and tensioner, removing the serpentine belt tensioner, removing the automatic transmission. Replacement of the rear engine cover with the crankshaft main oil seal, replacement of the oil pump assembly with the front crankshaft oil seal, replacement of camshaft seals, adjustment of valve clearances, replacement of spark plug tube seals and valve cover gaskets. Installing a new timing belt, water pump, tensioners, pulleys, engine side mount, serpentine belt, power steering pressure hose and power steering pump.

 

Good looks! I'll most likely get an independent shop to do the bigger job.

 

This will be a very expensive service. Many users come back stunned by thousands of dollar price tags. And they begin to reduce the scope of repair work to a minimum.
I spent over a thousand dollars on spare parts alone at online discount prices from the supplier.

 

Good looks! I'll most likely get an independent shop to do the bigger job.

 

Definitely an adventure to get here... Thankfully, all is well, but had a little scare this morning. While pulling out of this steep driveway, heard some popping noise. Thought a suspension component failed, but everything seems to be fine. Also, had to hit the throttle pretty hard to get the X to move up which I was not used too.

 

So, dropped the MDX off for service as the A124 light popped. Also, had check emission and SH AWD light pop. Also, dealing with significant oil leak, so I bit the bullet to do the timing belt service, serpentine belt, valve adjustment, reseal oil filter, replace VVT solenoid, and spark plugs. Also approved replacing the rear main seal which is what I've been putting off for some time.

I declined the PS pump as I'll swap or rebuild that myself. Also declined the rotors, reseal oil pan (did it last summer) and replacement of the 4 struts.

I'm on the fence as I originally declined replacing the engine mounts due to the price, but rethinking it. With all that engine work I just approved, will it cause issues? They did send a video showing the engine movement during revving.

 

I did all this work myself, as well as replacing all the engine mounts, replacing the PS pump and high pressure hose.

I didn't see resealing the engine oil pump housing on your to-do list. There is an O-ring between the oil pump housing and the front of the cylinder block that becomes flat and hard, and this is the main source of engine oil leaks from the front side. This job requires removing the oil pan, which must be sealed again at the end.

Additionally, the oil pan must be removed to ensure proper sealing of the rear main oil seal cover.

 

So they didn't flag the oil pump as a source, so it wasn't offered. I plan to call them in the morning to see what exactly is getting removed for the rear main seal job. That was the most expensive, so I really hope that they do it right. They are aware that I've been chasing this oil leak for a couple years now. When I did the oil pan last summer, I replaced the entire pan and resealed it (leak still present afterwards).

I'm also doing the timing belt, so there definitely significant work happening. My hope is they will work with me and add simple gasket replacements if it's complementary to work already being done.

 

Is this a Honda/Acura repair shop?

I'm surprised they didn't specify re-sealing the oil pump housing and replacing the O-ring. This is the #1 source of oil leak on the front side.
The O-ring on the rear main seal cover is the source of oil leakage from the rear of the engine.

Almost every mechanic who has worked on a high mileage Honda V-6 engine with oil leaks knows this and has performed hundreds of these "re-sealing" jobs over the course of his career.

 

indy shop that works on imports. I've been monitoring and the leaks has been primarily from the rear end of the motor closer to the flywheel. Really hasn't shown signs leaking from the front of the engine.

Now, my TL, I do believe the oil pump seal may be the cause of that leak as the leak is towards the front of that engine. I've already resealed the engine oil filter housing a few summers ago, which was significant, but it's still dripping... Ugh.

 

Yep, those are the culprits. I did all this, and the two O-rings - on the oil pump housing, and the rear cover of the main seal, are all the culprits.

 

Will report back how it goes! I'll follow up tomorrow to confirm the oil pump o ring and ask about the motor mounts.

I'll say, the sticker shock was up there. I knew I had to drop $$$, but when I saw the price and then all the suspension work, I was blown away. Current focus was engine... I deal with the suspension at another time.

 

If I was you I would look for a lower mileage / newer mdx, instead of dumping money into a 200k+ motor. I picked up a running/driving 08 base for $1100 from an auction with around 142k miles. Basically a spare in case anything catastrophic pops up with my 170k 08 mdx tech.

 

I get it.... The issue is it's still considered another high mileage vehicle to maintain. I have 3 vehicles MDX (205K), TL (~235K), and my RSX (~90K on motor/~150K on odometer). All have some level of maintenance that's causing me to dump money.

I ended up calling the shop and they are going to warranty the oil pan since I did it last summer! As for the the oil pump, no leaks, but will keep me posted as they start the timing belt job.

I added the motor mount replacement just to have peace of mind.

 

Nice, I have 7 vehicles. All Hondas and Acuras. They're good cars. I know exaxtly what you mean about maint costs. Luckily as a former flat rate ASE tech, I do pretty much anything including full motor builds.
GL with your maintenance.

 

Picked up the MDX this afternoon and pockets are definitely lighter...

Haven't driven it yet, but the wife says it feels much better than before. The engine is definitely quiet compared to what it was when we brought it in (I guess I got it used to the loud ticking). Also, undercarriage looks clean.

I plan to do the PS and brakes as a DIY in the coming months. Need to recoup funds 😂

 

So, I noticed there was still a leak... Put cardboard underneath and confirmed. MDX is back in the shop as of this morning. I believe they didn't do or forgot to do the RMS.



Oil dripping after 2 days... Cardboard had no spots prior.

Here's where the leak is

Another shot

I don't see any leaks by the oil pan, oil filter housing, or up top by the valve covers.

 

Nice to see you still maintaining your 2011, I sold mine last year for a 2019 Elite. The new one while better in most aspect doesn't drive like a sportscar(relatively speaking) that the 2011 did Or may be its my Model 3 which makes the X seem slower LoL