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Well it does look fairly easy to repair... That exhaust though, I hate that the tailpipe is part of the exhaust..
Does the hitch remained solid? no bent on it?
Well it does look fairly easy to repair... That exhaust though, I hate that the tailpipe is part of the exhaust..
Does the hitch remained solid? no bent on it?
Upon my visual inspection the hitch looks solid. I did not notice any damage to where it bolts to the frame thankfully. It will need a new bumper as they're cracks in it, and a good inspection of the exhaust.
I put the claim in with the at fault driver's insurance and waiting on the adjuster. I'm going to take it a a shop I trust for an independent quote as well. Since there's damage to the exhaust, I may go ahead and try some aftermarket mufflers to change the look and tone of the X.
Glad to hear your X will get repaired and back on the road again.
The wife had something similar at a stop light; but, the person behind her was distracted on a cell phone and rear ended our MDX at low speed. I think our trailer hitch also helped prevent more damage to the rear bumper. The adjuster still replaced the rear bumper, chrome bumper trim, and the trailer hitch harness (broke the dust cover). I also had my front/rear Blackvue DR650 dashcam as back-up just in-case the other person that caused the accident decided to change her story down the road. My dashcam also came in handy when a Dodge Pick-up side swiped my MDX rear driver's side quarter panel in a Walgreen's parking lot pulling into a space at night. The pick-up driver was in/out before my wife was done at Walgreens. We didn't notice the damage until the next morning. Having the exact date/time/location made it easier to file the insurance claim (unable to see license plate because we only have rear plates in NM).
Got the MDX repaired last week and picked it up late Friday evening. Total cost was just over $2400. The body shop had to order another rear garnish panel cause it was damaged and it was quoted as a remove/install at first. Also, I noticed they forgot to put back the MDX and SH-AWD emblems. Calling them on Monday to give them a heads up.
Completed a B1 service last weekend. MDX is just shy of 100,000 miles! Along with the B1 service, I installed new windshield wipers all around and wetsanded the headlights to get rid of the oxidation. Here are some pics:
Old, but here is from the repair shop after being rear ended. Oxidized driver side headlight After my little DIY restoration Did both head lights and fogs Another angle
Hope to give it a detail in the next few weeks. It really need a good wash, claybar, and wax.
Also, last month I accidentally left the windows cracked during a very bad storm. Needless to say, the seats were soaked. I dried them the best I could, but with this FL heat, in the next 48 hours the seats were water puddled got hard. Thankfully no tears, but the seats are damaged. I've been treating them to soften up the leather with some improvements.
My next service is Valve Adjustment, I just need to get the TB Gasket and will have it done somewhere around October..
I will do the DIY with pictures and all.
My next service is Valve Adjustment, I just need to get the TB Gasket and will have it done somewhere around October..
I will do the DIY with pictures and all.
I'll need to do wetsand my headlights as well. Not quite close to where yours was, but should get it done soon. How long did your DIY take?
Just under an hour for the 2 headlights and fog lights. I only had 2000 grit sandpaper paper, so I cleaned them first, then wetsanded with about 3-4 passes on each checking each time. Once it had the oxidation off, lens felt smooth, and had the cloudy look, buffed in the plastx, and the a quick wax.
All by hand, used the restoration kits that attach to a drill in the past on other vehicles and wasn't pleased with the results. Only recommendation is to tape off around the headlights to prevent scratches to the paint.
Update on the X. I noticed a few months ago that the X has a slight surge when trying to maintain a constant speed. Been dealing with other priorities, but had some time to do a little research.
Didn't opt for cross-drilled fancy pants rotors? I've only got 40K on my 2013 CPO, but when I need new I'm thinking of going in that direction. I wish there were caliper options. Painted OEM calipers look too "wanna-be" for me.
i got them on mine.
getting a vibration already and i cant tell if it's the new front rotors or the old OEM rear ones
i got them on mine.
getting a vibration already and i cant tell if it's the new front rotors or the old OEM rear ones
You mean aftermarket cross drilled in the front? I've read many stories of them warping and dealt with it in the past many years back on other vehicles. I've been running centric blanks with 0 issues going on 5+ years on several vehicles.
Yeah the water pump is part of the service.
I did my MDX not long ago its pretty much like any other J-Series out there, Way easier than my TL-S.
Total cost was around 300 bucks IIRC.. I did it myself.
Nice!!! Thanks as this is a confidence booster lol. I didn't get a chance to do the timing belt on my 2G TL before selling it, but planned on doing it myself. If it's easier on the X, that's definitely good to read.
After watching a YouTube video, I think I'll have an indie shop do it lol. I don't have the power tools and/or time. I may source the parts and just have them do the work. I'll get different quotes to see
80% of the job is removing the crank pulley bolt.. After that everything else is easy with common house tools.
My Milwaukee High Torque cordless Impact Wrench 1/2 did the job easily...
I had that service done recently on my 07 MDX. Buy all of the parts and find an independent shop to do it. I bought the AISIN timing belt kit (TKH002) that includes the water pump, hydraulic tensioner, timing belt, idler bearing, tensioner bearing, and water pump gasket. Amazon has it for $154.95 which is about half the price of OEM. I also bought NGK (6994) Laser Iridium Spark Plugs and Dayco Serpentine Belt then had them all done at the same time. Hopefully you can find a reasonable price for the labor.
Quick update... I ended up doing the oil change and will do the timing belt and water pump with the next service since I'm just at 102k. Found out that the front sway bar links are ripped, so I'm replacing them. Also ordered a K&N air filter and new febreze cabin air filters to change out next week.
JAN 2018 update:
* Installed K&N drop in air filter and Febreze cabin air filter. Pretty straightforward DIY job and was needed. Both filters were pretty dirty.
* Installed new sway bar links today. My brother works for AutoZone and I originally asked how much he could get the Moog sway bar links for, but I think he misinterpreted and got me the AutoZone brand. Oh well, they were still decent and direct replacement to the OEMs.
I followed Skirmich's DIY. The install was straightforward, but I do have 1 tip. Once you pull the old sway link nuts, I used a hammer and tapped on the bottom bolt to free it from the sway bar. Next, I installed the new sway bar link (bottom first) and the top didn't line up anymore. Here's the tip, get another Jack and place it under the strut, jack it up until you can line the upper sway bar bolt with the mount point on the strut, then complete installation.
Having 2 jacks made this a breeze for me and wanted to share.
I was unable to load pics off my phone, so... attaching now for reference.
Replaced OEM cabin filter (dirty) with Febreze CF10134
New K&N 33-2454 High performance air filter installed
OEM sway bar link (passenger side) in comparison to the Duralast 18750124 (same part number for both sides)
Install - I tapped the lower bolt with a mallet until in popped out of the sway bar. Then I started installation from then sway bar, but not pictured is how I used a jack to raise the strut to align the upper bolt to the mounting location.
Lower nut installed. I used a 17mm wrench to hold the bolt (inner side of the sway bar link) as I tightened the nut with a rachet.
Upper nut installed. Prior to jacking up the strut there was ~2" gap between the bolt and strut mount point.
Up next is the 105K service after I get back from a 2 week vacation. On the list is the following:
Parts:
1) Aisin TKH-002 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump
2) Continental Elite 4060840 Poly-V / Serpentine Belt (already have)
3) NGK Iridium 6994 (Qty 6)
4) New O-RING (14.4X1.9) - ACURA (91370-TA0-000)
5) New VALVE ASSEMBLY, PCV - ACURA (17130-RYE-A01)
6) Oil & fitler change (will run 5W-30 for this next one)
At discount tire with a nail in the passenger rear tire, so free patch and tire rotation at no charge since I bought my tires through them. Tech mentioned front tires are worn down to ~5/32" and rears are at ~9/32".
Of course MM popped B1236. I'll be ordering the AISIN timing belt kit and spark plugs to handle those along with this upcoming maintenance.
In other news, wife backed the X into my beloved RSX few weeks ago. Fender damage, but overall, nothing significant.
Picked up MDX yesterday from an independent shop that we had complete the following:
1) timing belt job to include water pump and tensioners
2) spark plugs
3) oil + filter change
4) transmission drain and fill
5) rear differential drain and fill
6) pcv assembly replacement
I just did my big 105K timing belt service on my last service. I just did it at the dealership for about $1500. They also changed out the rear magnetic shocks under warranty because they were starting to leak and it felt it was in comfort mode when I had it in sport. Just go back from a +2500 mile trip to CA (Santa Barbara, Solvang, Pismo Beach, Fresno, Yosemite National Park) and the MDX drove like a champ the entire way. Hated paying +$80 to fill her up in CA compared to $45 in NM.
I just did my big 105K timing belt service on my last service. I just did it at the dealership for about $1500. They also changed out the rear magnetic shocks under warranty because they were starting to leak and it felt it was in comfort mode when I had it in sport. Just go back from a +2500 mile trip to CA (Santa Barbara, Solvang, Pismo Beach, Fresno, Yosemite National Park) and the MDX drove like a champ the entire way. Hated paying +$80 to fill her up in CA compared to $45 in NM.
Nice! Total cost was ~$1349 for parts and labor for the service. I ended up ordering the parts on Amazon and taking it to a local shop I trust to do the work.
We were over 1500 miles past the MID recommendation and we have a road trip to Atlanta next week, so felt obligated to get it done. Looking forward to the drive now, and glad we don't have to worry about the those high CA gas prices!!!
Another maintenance update. Just completed oil + filter change and tried the Meguiars 2 step headlight restoration kit for $20. Says it should last for 1 year... We'll see...
Running synthetic blend 5w-30 to see how it holds up. I think my X is burning oil. Drained about 2.5 qts, so will start checking levels monthly.
Used the X to haul about 1000 lbs of junk/furniture today. Happy to report my hitch LED lights did not interfere with the actual functionality of using my hitch. Also did a little off roading on top of a landfill accidentally (incorrect info from the waste management employee) with all this lol. I thought I was going to get stuck once I realized I was up top where the big trucks were dumping, but the X made it up and back down with no issues thank God lol.
I didn't take pics on top of the landfill cause I was a bit worried. The guy on top asked why I was there and he said, I was sent to the wrong location. He offered to let me unload, but I said I prefer to get off before I get stuck.
Completed B1 service at 126,950 miles. Also, replaced battery and alternator over the weekend. I got a defective alternator from AutoZone, so just swapped in a OEM (31100-RGW-A01) and returned the AZ refurbished one. Lesson learned, stick with OEM for alternators for this vehicle...
Looks nice, where did you buy them from? Is it a simple swap?
Purchased on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Projector-Shadow-Welcome-Installation/dp/B07H6HR8S1/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550238776&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=acura+mdx +courtesy+lights&dpPl=1&dpID=51EyobRzDXL&ref=plSrc h
plug and play. 5 mins max. Used a tiny flat head to pry out the original. Only thing is to make sure the connector pins line up into the socket (had to adjust slightly.