2005 mdx engine area "ticking" noise
#1
2005 mdx engine area "ticking" noise
my 2005 MDX Touring with 110,000 miles has a noticeable "ticking" sound when running, coming from under the hood/engine area.
i've had the timing belt, idler/tensioner, bearings and lifters all checked and everything looked fine.
anyone know what could/is causing this issue?
thanks in advance. appreciate the help.....would REALLY like to get this fixed!
i've had the timing belt, idler/tensioner, bearings and lifters all checked and everything looked fine.
anyone know what could/is causing this issue?
thanks in advance. appreciate the help.....would REALLY like to get this fixed!
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
without getting technical with you; I swapped the top half of my engine with a 07-09 MDX.
my 2006 TL always made a ticking sound; but after the swap its more pronounced and louder!!
I did the engine swap myself fiddled around with the valves and made sure they were in spec.
except now, I can swear that the ticking is so much louder than before.
It definitely sounds "wrong" as a car shouldnt be making a ticking noise.
however; nothing is wrong with my car mechanically after I swapped the top half of the engine.
this leads me to believe that valves do indeed "chatter" at idle.
my 2006 TL always made a ticking sound; but after the swap its more pronounced and louder!!
I did the engine swap myself fiddled around with the valves and made sure they were in spec.
except now, I can swear that the ticking is so much louder than before.
It definitely sounds "wrong" as a car shouldnt be making a ticking noise.
however; nothing is wrong with my car mechanically after I swapped the top half of the engine.
this leads me to believe that valves do indeed "chatter" at idle.
Last edited by justnspace; 10-28-2014 at 03:05 PM.
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#8
It may need a valve adjustment. Most honda/Acura's require a valve lash adjustment after so many miles. Had to have it done on my RDX and several other Hondas I've owned in the past.
Not normally a DIY type job unless you know what you're doing. May want to ask your dealer next time you take it in. It's normally a couple hundred dollar job.
Not normally a DIY type job unless you know what you're doing. May want to ask your dealer next time you take it in. It's normally a couple hundred dollar job.
#10
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Intake valves usually stay the same or get loose with time.
I swear I performed the valve adjustment to the T and made sure that all valves were in spec.
I still hear the ticking. so, it leads me to believe that's how noisey they are to begin with.
I will upload a video of my valve chatter tonight, and you can listen to see if its the same noise
#11
Be a better driver
iTrader: (1)
It is valve tick, normal with the J-series. It's louder when it's cold, quieter when it's warmer, but never goes away. My J30 ticked, when I swapped to the J32 it was louder.
If a qualified technician has performed a valve adjustment or determined they are within spec, you have nothing to worry about. I suppose you could call it a lack in refinement, but it is indeed normal.
If a qualified technician has performed a valve adjustment or determined they are within spec, you have nothing to worry about. I suppose you could call it a lack in refinement, but it is indeed normal.
#15
without getting technical with you; I swapped the top half of my engine with a 07-09 MDX.
my 2006 TL always made a ticking sound; but after the swap its more pronounced and louder!!
I did the engine swap myself fiddled around with the valves and made sure they were in spec.
except now, I can swear that the ticking is so much louder than before.
It definitely sounds "wrong" as a car shouldnt be making a ticking noise.
however; nothing is wrong with my car mechanically after I swapped the top half of the engine.
this leads me to believe that valves do indeed "chatter" at idle.
my 2006 TL always made a ticking sound; but after the swap its more pronounced and louder!!
I did the engine swap myself fiddled around with the valves and made sure they were in spec.
except now, I can swear that the ticking is so much louder than before.
It definitely sounds "wrong" as a car shouldnt be making a ticking noise.
however; nothing is wrong with my car mechanically after I swapped the top half of the engine.
this leads me to believe that valves do indeed "chatter" at idle.
My sisters element ticks loud also, I asked if she had enough oil in it last time, but she said it's been that loud since she bought it new. My old 98 acura integra GSR was loud also... the type R's valves are louder.
#21
ahhh thanks for the info.....
also, while i try to figure out how to add a video....
...it is more pronounced or louder from the left side of the engine area than the right (as i stand in front of the car looking at it)
also, while i try to figure out how to add a video....
...it is more pronounced or louder from the left side of the engine area than the right (as i stand in front of the car looking at it)
#22
#24
Burning Brakes
That doesn't sound normal to me when I compare it to mine. Did the noise appear after you replaced the timing belt? Also I would ask a different mechanic for his opinion on the issue.
#27
Thanks, i will try that this week and get back.
Is the ticking being louder on the left side (or being totally from the left) mean anything? Or that where these belts and pulleys are located?
Is the ticking being louder on the left side (or being totally from the left) mean anything? Or that where these belts and pulleys are located?
#28
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
yes, the drive belt is located on the left hand side.
it drives the power steering pump, a/c unit, and other "accessories"
sometimes, these pulley's can go bad and will give an off sound. in your video you can actually hear 2 ticking noises.
the normal ticking noise and your second louder noise that is not in time with the other ticking noise, thus why I think its a warped pulley. creating a back and fourth noise.
it drives the power steering pump, a/c unit, and other "accessories"
sometimes, these pulley's can go bad and will give an off sound. in your video you can actually hear 2 ticking noises.
the normal ticking noise and your second louder noise that is not in time with the other ticking noise, thus why I think its a warped pulley. creating a back and fourth noise.
Last edited by justnspace; 11-17-2014 at 01:12 PM.
#30
had drive belt removed and everything checked and absolutely no change.
also had done: remove coils or injector connectors one by one to take the power away from the cylinder individually. If one makes the noise changed significant then its a failing wrist pin or damaged rod bearing. If there is no change then use a stethoscope listening to the valve covers to see if its a valve train associated noise.
and no problems or changes.
ANYONE have any help!?
also had done: remove coils or injector connectors one by one to take the power away from the cylinder individually. If one makes the noise changed significant then its a failing wrist pin or damaged rod bearing. If there is no change then use a stethoscope listening to the valve covers to see if its a valve train associated noise.
and no problems or changes.
ANYONE have any help!?
#32
Three Wheelin'
I didn't read every post here, so I'm not sure if it's been mentioned, but my 2006 MDX started making a rough ticking noise around 125,000 miles and it turned out to be my alternator.
The alternator ball bearings make a noticeable noise when they start to falter.
Some of the "tells" for alternator fade are random dash lights coming on, your vehicle occasionally feeling as if it's going to stall, or it may not give any tells other than the rough sound/tick.
Obviously it's not a cheap fix, but given your vehicle age/mileage, this very well could be the culprit.
The alternator ball bearings make a noticeable noise when they start to falter.
Some of the "tells" for alternator fade are random dash lights coming on, your vehicle occasionally feeling as if it's going to stall, or it may not give any tells other than the rough sound/tick.
Obviously it's not a cheap fix, but given your vehicle age/mileage, this very well could be the culprit.
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