Hey guys,

So its been about 2 full days now and just out of the blue in the morning my remote key wasn't unlocking all 4 doors to my mdx. So I figured maybe the remote is dieing or happened to be un-programmed so i grabbed the backup key and that too wasn't doing anything. So the only way of entry is using the actual key in the drivers door to unlock/lock that door, but the key wont unlock/lock any of the 3 remaining doors. The only way to lock/unlock the other doors is physically pushing down the button on the inside of the door.

Now im sure this next part is important: When I was inside the car pressing either the lock and unlock button on the remote key, I heard the normal clicking that you would hear. But the next day I couldn't hear it anymore and now there's no noise. Hmmm. I would like to include that the inside chrome unlock and lock levers don't work at all (the ones on both the drivers and front passengers side).

I've tried to read around about similar issued but it seems like there are several checks to determine the source. There has been recent repair with the APP (acceleration pedal position) sensor but I doubting that has anything to do with it. Thank you for any comments and support and I'll be happy to provide any more information or clarify the problem if this post didn't explain the problem clearly.

 

You'll need a new battery(for the car, not the remote) soon.

Happened to mine before. Had no problem opening the doors with the remote when I bought the X in February of 2010. When summer arrived, the remote wouldn't unlock the doors.
Then the following winter, the battery died!
Since replacing the battery, it never occurred again!

 

Okay sounds good! I've also noticed that the car does not arm too. The red blinking light on the drivers door doesnt come on and I believe the car doesnt even arm entirely. I'll check the battery though.

 

I am having a similar issue with my 2008 MDX. The driver's door does not always lock with the FOB. I can hear the lock motors actuate, the red blinking light on the dash comes on, but the driver door does not lock while all three other door do. Also the locks will randomly lock and unlock while driving.

Could this be symptoms of a dying battery as well?

 

 

hi, I need help with my 2008 MDX Base SH-AWD with 84K miles. I'm the original owner and this spring when we had the lockdown, I wasn't able to use the car for a few weeks.
The battery got discharged and when I recharged the battery, a few days later my ABS, VSA and SH-AWD lights came on. I replaced the battery but the lights did not come off.
When I had the code checked, it was a rear left speed sensor. I had an acura mechanic worked on it and had the speed sensor replaced, but the lights still were on.

When I checked the web on how to reset the ABS/VSA, I saw on youtube that you can try and jump the pin 4 and pin 9 of the ODB port. When I did that, I noticed that there was a litter spark
on the pin 4. After that my power door locks and the radio are no longer working. Everything else works but the VSA/ABS and SH-AWD were still on.
The power door lock is dead even when I try to press the button. So every door now has to be opened and closed manually including the tailgate.
However, when all the door locks are open, and I start the car and drive it, all the doors will automatically lock. The remote locking on the key doesn't work too.

I checked fuses 5 (audio) and 8 (power door)(for blown fuses in the interior fuse box for continuity, and they were OK.
Does anyone have any idea how I can fix the door locks. As for the VSA/ABS, I know I have to post it in a different thread.

 

If you checked the fuses and they are not blown, most likely the relay is the issue. Test/Verify the relay functions properly.

 

Thanks Nats007. Do you have a link to how to test the relay? I'm not that good with electronics so just wondering how much this would cost to have the dealer fix it (hours for labor + MICU cost). Could the relay fail because of the short even if the fuse is still good?

 

I found the problem. It was a blown fuse. When I was looking at the fuse diagram, I misread it and was checking the wrong fuses, w/c were not blown. Only when I went thru all the fuses in the interior fuse box did I find the blown fuse.

Now I see a 'Check Brakes' lights on.

 

When I replace the fuse, is it safe to just buy from Amazon?

 

yes or go to your local autozone/walmart/radioshack and buy one

 

I'm also having ABS/VSA and SH-AWD lights on. I noticed that the 2 Omron relays were corroded in the back fuse box. One of them is for the SH-AWD.
I haven't checked if the relays are still good but was wondering why they seem corroded. I checked the relay in the secondary fuse box
under the hood, and that one is not corroded.
Is it safe to get these relays from Amazon? Do I need to get OEM Omron relays?