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If I disconnect the FRONT of drive shaft from transfer, can it be towed without damag
Mid project and have to move a few states over for new Employment. But car is in the pieces at this time. I am going to stuff new motor into k-member assembly and re-install it so the car is one piece and on its own feet. Then I have to tow it about 1100 miles. Car hauler $300, car dolly $50.
❓ finally❓ I have disconnected the rear driveshaft to drop k-member. Thought if I can strap up the driveshaft to undercarriage but still connected to the rear-end and tow it normally on dolly, will the drive shaft spin? Saves allot of money. And One less item on my list,
P.S. everything else is in moving truck already and living in motel until I can get this car ready to transport!
Please, I cannot afford any mistakes or additional damage.
Wife's daily driver with 256K miles on it. It slipped 2 teeth on the timing belt and motor went bad fast. So I decided, without ever having done anything bigger than brakes and oil changes to dive in and change the motor myself. Ordered a rebuilt motor with 78K on it. Added new Power Steering Pump, Oil Pump, Both Front CV Axels, New Ultima Red Battery, High Carbon Rotors, Front and rear Motor Mounts, Alternator, Fuel Injectors, Starter, A/C compressor, Water pump, Tensioner and main belt along with Timing belt and tensioner..... Changed out every sensor from; knock, Cam Position, Crank Position, MAP, MAF, all 4 O2's, EGR, Water Temp, Wheel speed, Steering Pressure and Brake Pressure.....Used only the best fluids- everything Lucas brand from Honda power steering fluid to 90w gear oil, Brake Fluid to Tranny Fluid, and Royal Purple Motor Oil. Rebuilt it and fired it for the first time today and she has a terrible knock in the bottom end. I do not know how to diagnose or figure out where it is coming from, and afraid to run engine making that load of a noise, ( i have run it less than 30 seconds at this point ) trying to get codes, only OBD2 codes are 1 O2s sensor and 1 HO2s Heater Errors, and a terrifying message saying major damage could happen if i continue to run engine. Blacked Out Engine Block and Tranny, Along with all bolt on custom painted Accessories and Custom Wiring Harness. Blacked out Engine compartment and wire loomed all showing wiring, hoses, and cables.
Username: Harrison Joshua Monteiro Year: 2015 Model: MDX Tech & entertainment Miles: 36k Purchase date: 12-2019 Modifications: None...yet! Issues(Resolved?): Alot of brake dust on the front wheel (should i be worried?) also looking to increase my knowledge. Since this car has too much tech for me, as my previous car was a humble jeep wrangler with 0 tech
When Changing your brake pads ALLWAYS go ceramic . Acura OEM Brake Pads are a low end Ceramic and I have been using Evolution Brakes High Performance Brake Kits, carbon fiber and Ceramic Pads and have almost no dust on the rims, since getting rid of the Semi-Metallic and even Low end Ceramic that are a hybrid of the two. I was a regional parts manager for AutoZone and got a lot of training in brakes during that time. For your vehicle I would recommend these pads and rotors, same type I use on my 2007 MDX Tech
Drilled & Slotted Rotor and carbon fiber / ceramic Pads, Shims and retainers all included
Power Stop, Performance Brake Pads and Rotors Kit K6957 $207 USD (FRONT)
Fears: Honda/Acura's 2010–2013 J37 oil consumption problem will be the death of this car. (I just finished a 342k mile journey with a 2003 Honda Pilot, so hoping the MDX can get 250k without a lot of investment.)
07-02-2021, 11:44 AM
2007 MDX Tech, New Motor and More
