mrm143

I LOVE coming to the forums to look around, but NOT when I have to post LOL...


Did tons of research last night, and just wanted a 2nd opinion to confirm my suspicions...


So, I live in Rhode Island, and we have had a TERRIBLE winter, which leaves us with TONS of potholes...


So, I noticed a few weeks ago, I was on the highway, and the steering wheel started shaking like crazy, and the car was pulling to the left.... ONLY when accelerating, letting foot off gas it would immediately stop, also it would not happen on braking, and WHILE it was shaking, car would pull to the left...


I also started noticing at slower speeds taking corners, a clicking noise coming from the front end....


The weird thing on the highway is it doesn't happen every single time... I went 30 miles yesterday one way, it started happening near the end of the trip, the car sat for about 3 hours, and then on the way home, when I got up to speed, it started the whole way home whenever I would give it gas...


My brakes are almost gone, their squeaking, and the new pads come in tomorrow, but I seriously doubt this has anything to do with this.... but theirs always hope.....


SO, I was thinking both front axles should be replaced... What are everyone else's thoughts??

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

either a steering component is broken or you need new struts.

mrm143

Wow totally different from what I was going to do...


So I guess, whats the next step, any steps to troubleshoot?


I don't notice any excessive play up or down when driving, and the ride is fine other than at high speeds...


I'll have the wheels off this week to do the brakes, so anything to look for?


I DID take a quick look at the boots for the axles and they looked fine...


I ALSO know the passenger side upper ball joint assembly needs to be replaced, not sure if this would do what Im describing, as that gives me more of a "CLUNK" when going over a bump.... (I was told this when getting my inspection a few months ago, just haven't replaced it yet)

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

A ball joint, an end link, and a broken shock valve will all "clunk or click"

Its hard to reproduce the sound manually as you cannot create the same environment on a lift. Due to this the next step, if you are not familiar with steering, susp, and alignment, would be to consult a pro and have them check it out.

I voted shock because the shake in the steering could be from the spring only supporting the car with no dampening allowing every thing to feed into the steering.

mrm143

But from what ive been reading, the vibration only under acceleration meant the axle could be messed up.... the only time I feel any vibration is at highway speeds, and only under acceleration... besides the clicking, the car rides fine at normal speeds...

mrm143

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...rating-781497/


That's one of the threads I was reading

mrm143

I think I will also rotate the tires when I do the brakes, maybe its a missing wheel weight, Im assuming the tires go LF to LR, and RF to RR?

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Back to my point... Its hard to reproduce the sound manually as you cannot create the same environment on a lift. Due to this the next step, if you are not familiar with steering, susp, and alignment, would be to consult a pro and have them check it out.

mrm143

So it has been verified it is the Drivers side CV Joint...


SO.... I feel very confident I can replace the axle, but just had a few questions....


#1.... When removing the ball joint, Is it forcefull, meaning is a part of the suspension gonna come down and wack me in the arm or something? Should I leave the bolt on the very end, so when it does pop, it will hit the nut and then I remove the rest of the way?




#2..... Is their a way to NOT have to change the tranny fluid? I have heard tipping the car up a little "extra"?






#3..... I cant afford Raxles, I believe they were 299 each last time I called a couple weeks ago.... IF I go to the local parts store, Which brand should I get? my choices are duralast, or EMPI from the local stores, or rockauto has API and Surtrack




And for now, I think that's it, unless I can think of something else....


Oh yah, the dampers, none of the ones I have seen besides raxles have them... do I REALLY need it... again, cant afford raxles, and need to do this asap




Thanks in advance

mrm143

Anyone?

tla11384

I started noticing a clunking in the front end today also. Let me know what the CV joint cost you? Might have to get it inspected :C

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

1. For removing the balljoint. You don't actually pop the balljoint out. You remove the 2 bolts that bolt the balljoint "holder" to the spindle. It won't pop or fall down.

2. .. change the fluid

3. Axles from your local parts store will be fine. I've always used them and never had issues.

Hope that helps

mrm143

[QU...OTE=teh CL;15416647]1. For removing the balljoint. You don't actually pop the balljoint out. You remove the 2 bolts that bolt the balljoint "holder" to the spindle. It won't pop or fall down.

2. .. change the fluid

3. Axles from your local parts store will be fine. I've always used them and never had issues.




Hope that helps [/QUOTE]

I am beyond frustrated right now. the ball joint trick was perfect it just took me a few minutes to figure it out... the problem now and I put up a new thread because I was pissed off last night is that none of the parts stores have the correct axle even though the part number say it is the correct one. the one that they have in stock as a male on one end and a female on the other End

so now I have no car and I have to call Marty at raxles tomorrow in order the correct one and wait a few days

mrm143

Called marty @ raxles today, 248.00 shipped


So long story short, if your going to local parts store, MAKE SURE its the right part before you take yours off....

mrm143

So my Raxle should be here shortly YAY....


Question, when putting the axle nut back on, I don't have an impact or a torque wrench...


How tight should it be, and should I wait to tighten till wheel is on the ground?

mrm143

Merry Xmas to me.....

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

You definitely need a torque wrench

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Needs to be torqued to 242 ft/lbs.

mrm143

Hmmm.... ill get er somehow LOL

mrm143

So axle in and I'm having a major issue.... clicking is fixed but now the abs and visa lights are on and the wheel just pulls full turn to the left..... I'm sitting at local mechanic now s
Waiting.... any ideas???

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Did you torque it to 242 ft/lbs? If not, there's your problem

mrm143

Ok good and bad news.. good news I put the ball joint cradle on backwards so wheel is perfect now and clicking is gone.... bad news I need a new abs sensor I must have damaged wire she doing axle... 160 for part.... coming in tuesday

mrm143

Its weird driving in FWD, feels different LOL


It turns off AWD when that light comes on..


ABS Sensor would def cause ABS light etc... correct? Especially since I was working on that left side...

oo7spy

You wouldn't be the first person to damage an ABS sensor pulling an axle out. I heard it a few times trying to read up on changing a 350Z wheel bearing.

mrm143

The fwd RL is very peppy LOL

oo7spy

You probably got about 20+ whp running like that.

mrm143

Lol almost want to keep it like that lol...