DIY: HID Bulb Change w/o Bumper Removal !!! 3G Garage #G-004
08-17-2015, 06:29 AM
#162
Did this myself yesterday too 
Pretty sure I just needed to replace the ignitor but replaced all when I was in there. Took about 3 years start to finish - hit an issue where the bolts at the bottom of the bumper were completely rusted and not moving - used liquid wrench, let it sit and then got them out slowly. Overall very happy I tackled this on my own.
Pretty sure I just needed to replace the ignitor but replaced all when I was in there. Took about 3 years start to finish - hit an issue where the bolts at the bottom of the bumper were completely rusted and not moving - used liquid wrench, let it sit and then got them out slowly. Overall very happy I tackled this on my own.
08-29-2015, 02:44 PM
#163
Props to the OP! Indeed you do *not* need to remove the bumper to change the HID bulbs on a 2004-2008 TL. I was able to change both bulbs on an '06 TL in 40 minutes, start to finish using the OP's pix and steps.
Keys to an easier time:
1. Roll up on some ~20 cm (8 in) ramps if you have them. This will make it easier to look up the wheel-skirts to see the back of the HID cans. It also helps if it is bright in the work area so you can see the light coming through the lens, etc.
2. If you have to replace the driver's side bulb, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, as far as it will go, lock to lock. Remove the battery. YagottaDoIt! (regardless, you should absolutely disconnect it, both terminals to be safe, and don't touch the ingiter or balasts for at least 20 mins after they have been lit. 25,000 volts will give you quite a jolt! The amps are what kills (100-200 mA (0.1 - 0.2 Amps) can kill you!), but the volts will generate an impressive, and dangerous spark! You definitely want the entire circuit de-energized before fiddling with it. When/If you are also doing the passenger side, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left (it is a biayotch w/o power steering, but even a girlyman can do it!)
3. Torx Bolts. This part was *by far* the hardest part. *By Far* the hardest part. Patience and perseverance are essential. This was key for me: Find a "security" (a.k.a. "Tamper Resistant") T20 torx bit and a ~3cm extension. The "security" and "tamper resistant" torx bits have a hole in the center of the bit. In the US, Auto Zone has a "security bit" kit for ~US$8 that has a T20 and a bunch of other hard to find bits in it (SureBilt 34pc Screwdriver Bit Set #262606 82008). I'm sure, as the OP said, a small flat-blade will work too, but you will be dealing with the torx retainer bolts blindly. You cannot see them in-place in the car, at all. Use the OP's pix to help orient you. The driver's side torx bolt is at ~10 o'clock looking at the back of the can. You can feel it with your finger, but will never see it in-place. You'll have to blindly guide the torx bit into place, but fortunately, once you score, it seats well and is easy to loosen and remove. The torx bolt is at about ~2 o'clock on the passenger side (they're mirror images).
To re-thread the torx bolts I used a screw grabber/starter thingy (don't know what it is truly called, lol, google "screw grabber" and the first image should be what I'm talking about). These things are commonly plastic and included with computer repair kits. Radio Shack has them. They have three metal tines that are operated via plunger that grab the bolt head pretty well, well enough to use to start the torx bolt back into the hole anyway. Once the bolt is hand-threaded, you then switch back to the regular T20 security bit and screw it back in.
Everything else is as the OP describes.
When I quoted the price for a replacement OEM bulb from the dealer, it made my butt hurt. When I was quoted the price to have them replace the bulb, it gave me a case of the explosive yitz!
The majority of the cost was labor. The offical Acura manual for the 04 - 08 TL's calls for the removal of the entire bumper assembly and the headlight assemblies, then the require re-assembly, which is where the labor costs come from. Clearly this is unnecessary. I wouldn't be surprised if the stealerships are also going the route of the OP and laughing all the way to the bank! Charging you for 2-3 hours of labor, when it only really takes 30 mins (assuming a mechanic that has done this before is faster than I was). 
While it helps to have small hands and wrists to get this done, no doubt, I have giant meat hammers for hands and was able to get it done with only a minimum of pinch, scrapes and blood. It isn't a DIY until someone bleeds!
On a scale of 1 to 10 in difficulty, with replacing a clutch being a 10, and refilling the washer fluid being a 1, this job is a 3.
Thanks again to the OP, saved me a ton of doubloons!
Keys to an easier time:
1. Roll up on some ~20 cm (8 in) ramps if you have them. This will make it easier to look up the wheel-skirts to see the back of the HID cans. It also helps if it is bright in the work area so you can see the light coming through the lens, etc.
2. If you have to replace the driver's side bulb, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, as far as it will go, lock to lock. Remove the battery. YagottaDoIt! (regardless, you should absolutely disconnect it, both terminals to be safe, and don't touch the ingiter or balasts for at least 20 mins after they have been lit. 25,000 volts will give you quite a jolt! The amps are what kills (100-200 mA (0.1 - 0.2 Amps) can kill you!), but the volts will generate an impressive, and dangerous spark! You definitely want the entire circuit de-energized before fiddling with it. When/If you are also doing the passenger side, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left (it is a biayotch w/o power steering, but even a girlyman can do it!)
3. Torx Bolts. This part was *by far* the hardest part. *By Far* the hardest part. Patience and perseverance are essential. This was key for me: Find a "security" (a.k.a. "Tamper Resistant") T20 torx bit and a ~3cm extension. The "security" and "tamper resistant" torx bits have a hole in the center of the bit. In the US, Auto Zone has a "security bit" kit for ~US$8 that has a T20 and a bunch of other hard to find bits in it (SureBilt 34pc Screwdriver Bit Set #262606 82008). I'm sure, as the OP said, a small flat-blade will work too, but you will be dealing with the torx retainer bolts blindly. You cannot see them in-place in the car, at all. Use the OP's pix to help orient you. The driver's side torx bolt is at ~10 o'clock looking at the back of the can. You can feel it with your finger, but will never see it in-place. You'll have to blindly guide the torx bit into place, but fortunately, once you score, it seats well and is easy to loosen and remove. The torx bolt is at about ~2 o'clock on the passenger side (they're mirror images).
To re-thread the torx bolts I used a screw grabber/starter thingy (don't know what it is truly called, lol, google "screw grabber" and the first image should be what I'm talking about). These things are commonly plastic and included with computer repair kits. Radio Shack has them. They have three metal tines that are operated via plunger that grab the bolt head pretty well, well enough to use to start the torx bolt back into the hole anyway. Once the bolt is hand-threaded, you then switch back to the regular T20 security bit and screw it back in.
Everything else is as the OP describes.
When I quoted the price for a replacement OEM bulb from the dealer, it made my butt hurt. When I was quoted the price to have them replace the bulb, it gave me a case of the explosive yitz!
The majority of the cost was labor. The offical Acura manual for the 04 - 08 TL's calls for the removal of the entire bumper assembly and the headlight assemblies, then the require re-assembly, which is where the labor costs come from. Clearly this is unnecessary. I wouldn't be surprised if the stealerships are also going the route of the OP and laughing all the way to the bank! Charging you for 2-3 hours of labor, when it only really takes 30 mins (assuming a mechanic that has done this before is faster than I was). While it helps to have small hands and wrists to get this done, no doubt, I have giant meat hammers for hands and was able to get it done with only a minimum of pinch, scrapes and blood. It isn't a DIY until someone bleeds!
On a scale of 1 to 10 in difficulty, with replacing a clutch being a 10, and refilling the washer fluid being a 1, this job is a 3.
Thanks again to the OP, saved me a ton of doubloons!
08-29-2015, 02:50 PM
#164
Oh, forgot to mention: The 2006 Acura TL's are coming up on the 9 - 10 year zone, where the HID's will be dropping out like an epidemic. These HID's have a projected lifespan of 5 - 9 years under normal usage. Thanks again for the nudge in the right direction!
01-27-2018, 10:29 PM
#167
Hello all,
My driver headlight got pinkeye a few days ago. Thanks to the OP for this DIY. I removed the battery and wheel and went through the wheel-well like the DIY. If I had more room in my garage, I’d have removed the bumper as working cramped made this my least favorite project yet.
The hardest part for me was getting the black cover out of its hole/space . I do not like forcing parts, but had to push the cover against the airduct to remove it. If I need to do this again (the headlight I removed was 13 years old), there is a bolt holding the air duct that I might loosen to facilitate the removal of the cover.
One tip. I practiced installing the original bulb 5 times before trying with the new bulb. For my first few tries, I bumped the old bulb a lot trying to position it. By the fifth time, I was able to slide the old bulb in without looking. After that, I inserted the new bulb easily. I’m not sure how fragile these bulbs are, but after spending 30 minutes struggling with the cover, I did not want to damage the bulb while inserting it and have to repeat this procedure in a few years.
My driver headlight got pinkeye a few days ago. Thanks to the OP for this DIY. I removed the battery and wheel and went through the wheel-well like the DIY. If I had more room in my garage, I’d have removed the bumper as working cramped made this my least favorite project yet.
The hardest part for me was getting the black cover out of its hole/space . I do not like forcing parts, but had to push the cover against the airduct to remove it. If I need to do this again (the headlight I removed was 13 years old), there is a bolt holding the air duct that I might loosen to facilitate the removal of the cover.
One tip. I practiced installing the original bulb 5 times before trying with the new bulb. For my first few tries, I bumped the old bulb a lot trying to position it. By the fifth time, I was able to slide the old bulb in without looking. After that, I inserted the new bulb easily. I’m not sure how fragile these bulbs are, but after spending 30 minutes struggling with the cover, I did not want to damage the bulb while inserting it and have to repeat this procedure in a few years.
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