A-107: DIY-Seafoam on 3rd gen TL ('06 5AT specifically)
#201
06 WDP / 07 WDP Type-S
Thread Starter
I don't know if its hydrolocking or not, but if you add slowly, you should be fine. Adding seafoam with the engine off is useless. You want it to go into your cylinders while they're going through the compression cycles. The seafoam is burning with gasoline / air, then it's blown out the exhaust. This is why adding a lot doesn't do as much as adding the same amount slowly.
#202
Deep Creep is way easier to put in the vac port in a controlled slow manner- its contents are 100% seafoam- nothing different - nothing else,
I think they market it different because you can use it like wd40 in the spray form~ what dont it work for! The spray can has room to list many uses!
The liquid is better for gas tanks and oil cleaning- sell 2 products of the same thing in a different can` its the american way!
I have no problems with hydrolock (which is getting water in the engine)--using seafoam When at a point where then engine sounds full and ready for the percolate time,- I shoot enough in to stall the engine. Thats fine!
Its not water!! so the compression of it does not effect the car in a negative way- that's hydrolocks problem- air and water not the same!
When it dies from too much at once- thats the same thing, and you simply restart engine and continue
If you are concerned- then dont stall the engine at the end- just turn the key off
It does most of its work after you have saturated the motor- some occurs while its going in, then you let it sit 10-15 minutes- then a hot foot drive with sustained 4000 rpm to blow out the gunk thats loosened up its grip.
Repeat in 2000 miles for first timers to get it a bit cleaner then good for a year
Thats a good valve pic- and there are youtube vids with a boroscope camera inside the engine with it running~~
Let the naysayers continue to run with crud.
Imagine what the sludge in the oil system looks like! Will have to cut my filter open after this change.
I think they market it different because you can use it like wd40 in the spray form~ what dont it work for! The spray can has room to list many uses!
The liquid is better for gas tanks and oil cleaning- sell 2 products of the same thing in a different can` its the american way!
I have no problems with hydrolock (which is getting water in the engine)--using seafoam When at a point where then engine sounds full and ready for the percolate time,- I shoot enough in to stall the engine. Thats fine!
Its not water!! so the compression of it does not effect the car in a negative way- that's hydrolocks problem- air and water not the same!
When it dies from too much at once- thats the same thing, and you simply restart engine and continue
If you are concerned- then dont stall the engine at the end- just turn the key off
It does most of its work after you have saturated the motor- some occurs while its going in, then you let it sit 10-15 minutes- then a hot foot drive with sustained 4000 rpm to blow out the gunk thats loosened up its grip.
Repeat in 2000 miles for first timers to get it a bit cleaner then good for a year
Thats a good valve pic- and there are youtube vids with a boroscope camera inside the engine with it running~~
Let the naysayers continue to run with crud.
Imagine what the sludge in the oil system looks like! Will have to cut my filter open after this change.
#203
side note- if you were storing the car for a year,- you seafoam it a bit till smoke from exhaust - then stall it with a big shot. Now everything has an oily coating on it and will be fine when you return.
Do the lawnmower the same way in winter,- treat it with a shot thru the spark plug hole.
Do the lawnmower the same way in winter,- treat it with a shot thru the spark plug hole.
#205
While you have the intake-air filter stuff removed to install the new unit-
spray clean the big round butterfly plate- inside the TB housing- thats very important to keep clean.
Use Deep Creep- or TB spray Cleaner or carb cleaner works too!
Get the edges and both sides- gen2 manually open the plate with throttle, gen3 have someone turn on the key as you spray, that will cause the plate to open and close in a self test- then wipe up any dripping fluid and dirt, start engine- run a for a minute- ok to spray more in while running.
Install the new intake- test drive and warm engine up- seafoam vac port. do hot run
reset ECU
spray clean the big round butterfly plate- inside the TB housing- thats very important to keep clean.
Use Deep Creep- or TB spray Cleaner or carb cleaner works too!
Get the edges and both sides- gen2 manually open the plate with throttle, gen3 have someone turn on the key as you spray, that will cause the plate to open and close in a self test- then wipe up any dripping fluid and dirt, start engine- run a for a minute- ok to spray more in while running.
Install the new intake- test drive and warm engine up- seafoam vac port. do hot run
reset ECU
#206
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
Thank you 01tl4tl,
but I'm not even close to 2000 mi from the first vac port and gas tank sea foam. I still have to go 900mi.
one more question, by running the engine do you mean to do it with out the tube air intake and filter? I'm a bit confused here.
When turning the key to which position do you mean to turn it to?
but I'm not even close to 2000 mi from the first vac port and gas tank sea foam. I still have to go 900mi.
one more question, by running the engine do you mean to do it with out the tube air intake and filter? I'm a bit confused here.
When turning the key to which position do you mean to turn it to?
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
While you have the intake-air filter stuff removed to install the new unit-
spray clean the big round butterfly plate- inside the TB housing- thats very important to keep clean.
Use Deep Creep- or TB spray Cleaner or carb cleaner works too!
Get the edges and both sides- gen2 manually open the plate with throttle, gen3 have someone turn on the key as you spray, that will cause the plate to open and close in a self test- then wipe up any dripping fluid and dirt, start engine- run a for a minute- ok to spray more in while running.
Install the new intake- test drive and warm engine up- seafoam vac port. do hot run
reset ECU
spray clean the big round butterfly plate- inside the TB housing- thats very important to keep clean.
Use Deep Creep- or TB spray Cleaner or carb cleaner works too!
Get the edges and both sides- gen2 manually open the plate with throttle, gen3 have someone turn on the key as you spray, that will cause the plate to open and close in a self test- then wipe up any dripping fluid and dirt, start engine- run a for a minute- ok to spray more in while running.
Install the new intake- test drive and warm engine up- seafoam vac port. do hot run
reset ECU
#207
i think i found my problem. the 6 led board in the trunk light was stuffed in there pretty good, and looks like some metal where the factory light connects had rubbed off the protective covering on the back of the led board and was just barely making contact if i hit a bump or something. crazy huh
#208
gen3 cars- when you look at the TB/throttle body- in this case while the air filter assembly-tube to the TB is removed for install of a different system- look at the round plate inside- thats the Butterfly Valve.
With engien OFF the plate will be vertical or closed position and have black -dirty crud on it.
Spray TB/carb cleaner type stuff directly at that, and it will run down the opening with black goo. Be liberal -use a toothbrush if stuff persidst- you wanbt bare metal when done
Wipe that mess up with a rag.
Now have a helper turn the key to ON but not to Start- just so all the warning lights come on- the butterfly plate will electrically open and close in a systems test- be ready to spray to get some on the backside when it opens, and get the edges of the plate as able too.
Wipe up excess.
Start engine- shoot some cleaner directly in and at the plate- rev the engine slightly to keep it running and open the plate slightly so you can get the edges some moreand spray some more-
its going to end up the same place using the main vac port does, and gets a small portion of the intake manifold that ~I~ dont think is getting cleaned with just vac port. Going thru the TB with cleaner definetly helps overall.
Its ok to run the engine without anything covering the TB opening- no tubes- for cleaning purposes ONLY,,,, just dont drive it like this!
After your new air intake system is installed and tested for leaks and rattles, then do a seafoam treatment to the gas tank and intake manifold- go for a hotfoot drive to blow the gunk out- and then enjoy~
With engien OFF the plate will be vertical or closed position and have black -dirty crud on it.
Spray TB/carb cleaner type stuff directly at that, and it will run down the opening with black goo. Be liberal -use a toothbrush if stuff persidst- you wanbt bare metal when done
Wipe that mess up with a rag.
Now have a helper turn the key to ON but not to Start- just so all the warning lights come on- the butterfly plate will electrically open and close in a systems test- be ready to spray to get some on the backside when it opens, and get the edges of the plate as able too.
Wipe up excess.
Start engine- shoot some cleaner directly in and at the plate- rev the engine slightly to keep it running and open the plate slightly so you can get the edges some moreand spray some more-
its going to end up the same place using the main vac port does, and gets a small portion of the intake manifold that ~I~ dont think is getting cleaned with just vac port. Going thru the TB with cleaner definetly helps overall.
Its ok to run the engine without anything covering the TB opening- no tubes- for cleaning purposes ONLY,,,, just dont drive it like this!
After your new air intake system is installed and tested for leaks and rattles, then do a seafoam treatment to the gas tank and intake manifold- go for a hotfoot drive to blow the gunk out- and then enjoy~
#209
if you have 1100 miles on the current miles since 1st seafoam, and you are doing the intake this weekend- go ahead and repeat seafoam-
2000 is just a referance point not a spec number, 500 works too!
Its just getting the remainder crud from the initial cleaning. This time you have a feel for it- dont need to rev it- can do it at idle, and if it stumbles you just put finger-thumb over the vac port and problem solved- wait a minute and then start more seafoam- thats why I am realy liking Deep Creep- 100% seafoam in a paint spray can with nozzle straw- works best to see whats happening - how much product is going in at one time- little squirts instead of sip sip sip- you move the straw an inch away from the port and the vac sucks it in- making a tornado out of the stuff as it enters! really cool science demo~ of low pressure weather systems
Routine upkeep is a good idea as gas crosses into 5 bucks a gallon
While you have direct access to the TB plate, you want to clean it for sure- the crankcase vent system is that metal pipe from the valve cover to the TB area- guess what oily and unburned gas residue goes thru that tube and onto the metal butterfly- once there that attracts more-
So now with a clean TB plate--- why stop there, when `fully` cleaned is just a few more dollars of material and minutes of easy labor....
get 1 can Deep Creep Aerosol seafoam and 1 can liquid seafoam- same price, just under 7 bucks each
and 1 can liquid for oil change if ready for that- if not- before oil change put 1/3 to 1/2 can liquid in the oil cap hole and the rest in ~1/2 tank of gas.
Drive around the block a few times and change oil and filter
Never hurts to do some in the gas every 5000 miles as cleaner
1 oz to 1 gal gas is maitenance dose
2 oz per gal gas is cleaning strength
Have fun everyone!
2000 is just a referance point not a spec number, 500 works too!
Its just getting the remainder crud from the initial cleaning. This time you have a feel for it- dont need to rev it- can do it at idle, and if it stumbles you just put finger-thumb over the vac port and problem solved- wait a minute and then start more seafoam- thats why I am realy liking Deep Creep- 100% seafoam in a paint spray can with nozzle straw- works best to see whats happening - how much product is going in at one time- little squirts instead of sip sip sip- you move the straw an inch away from the port and the vac sucks it in- making a tornado out of the stuff as it enters! really cool science demo~ of low pressure weather systems
Routine upkeep is a good idea as gas crosses into 5 bucks a gallon
While you have direct access to the TB plate, you want to clean it for sure- the crankcase vent system is that metal pipe from the valve cover to the TB area- guess what oily and unburned gas residue goes thru that tube and onto the metal butterfly- once there that attracts more-
So now with a clean TB plate--- why stop there, when `fully` cleaned is just a few more dollars of material and minutes of easy labor....
get 1 can Deep Creep Aerosol seafoam and 1 can liquid seafoam- same price, just under 7 bucks each
and 1 can liquid for oil change if ready for that- if not- before oil change put 1/3 to 1/2 can liquid in the oil cap hole and the rest in ~1/2 tank of gas.
Drive around the block a few times and change oil and filter
Never hurts to do some in the gas every 5000 miles as cleaner
1 oz to 1 gal gas is maitenance dose
2 oz per gal gas is cleaning strength
Have fun everyone!
#212
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#213
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Originally Posted by tihomirbg
BTW,
I just realized that there are censors connected to the TB. I'll disconnect them and then turn the engine on. Wouldn't that make the check engine light come on?
I just realized that there are censors connected to the TB. I'll disconnect them and then turn the engine on. Wouldn't that make the check engine light come on?
Even with the engine off, if the power circuit is connected (i.e. fuses in, battery connected), the next engine restart, you'll have a CEL for ~20 to 30 miles.
#216
NO!!!!!!!!!!!!
It doesnt take much to clean the TB plate, maybe 20-30 seconds total spray- in bits..see how its going...spray more....
Just spray and watch the stuff run off- wipe up with rag, then start engine and shoot some more- a small amount at a time- thru the plate and it will clean part of the intake tube for you as well.
It doesnt take much to clean the TB plate, maybe 20-30 seconds total spray- in bits..see how its going...spray more....
Just spray and watch the stuff run off- wipe up with rag, then start engine and shoot some more- a small amount at a time- thru the plate and it will clean part of the intake tube for you as well.
#217
What do you think about using SeaFoam on a car with 73k miles? The concern I've always seen is that it might clear out some build-up that is actually helping seal certain parts of the internals, which might result in the car starting to burn oil. There has been a few stories of people using SeaFoam on higher mileage cars and starting to burn oil like crazy. Obviously if build-up is preventing oil from burning to begin with, that's pretty bad but SeaFoaming it sure doesn't help. On the flip side, carbon build up obviously isn't good either (create hot spots which can lead to pre-ignition, etc.).
#218
06 WDP / 07 WDP Type-S
Thread Starter
This is only a problem with the older cars, I believe. I remember talking to somebody about this, and they said the cleaner actually destroys the seals, thus making an engine worse than it was before seafoam. Now, though, we have new technology and better materials in our car. I think we should be fine.
#219
Originally Posted by Be-in my TL
This is only a problem with the older cars, I believe. I remember talking to somebody about this, and they said the cleaner actually destroys the seals, thus making an engine worse than it was before seafoam. Now, though, we have new technology and better materials in our car. I think we should be fine.
I'm sure my TL at 73k would create a smoke show...
#220
Our MegaMod fsttyms1 went 200,000 miles on his 00 and pulled the motor to install a CL-S motor and 6 speed trans
He dismantled the engine and it was like new inside!! always used seafoam in it
If you have a mega old chevy that eats oil--- do not seafoam
If you drive a TL that eats oil -STOP and figure out whats wrong-
If your TL is normal GO FOR IT It will not hurt anything and wil lhelp many things
He dismantled the engine and it was like new inside!! always used seafoam in it
If you have a mega old chevy that eats oil--- do not seafoam
If you drive a TL that eats oil -STOP and figure out whats wrong-
If your TL is normal GO FOR IT It will not hurt anything and wil lhelp many things
#221
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Originally Posted by eluzion
Yeah, that's what I'm guessing but I wish there was a way to verify it. I know a lot of you guys are running SeaFoam through your fairly new TL's but who knows if there's long term effects on the seals?
I'm sure my TL at 73k would create a smoke show...
I'm sure my TL at 73k would create a smoke show...
#223
on top of the intake manifold on its throat- a rubber hose with a clamp on it- thats the one!
#225
Go back and look at the pics in the last 2 pages here- remove the clamp with your fingers- wiggle the hose off the metal tube/nipple that is attached to the intake manifold.
The metal tube going into the engine has the vacuum from the engine
Using the Deep Creep aerosol version of Seafoam, you shoot small amounts at a time into the metal tube.
The metal tube going into the engine has the vacuum from the engine
Using the Deep Creep aerosol version of Seafoam, you shoot small amounts at a time into the metal tube.
#226
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
Hey 01tl4tl,
I did everything you said and I can believe how much dirt came out of the TB. I'm so glad you mentioned it to clean the TB. I finished the installation and then sea foamed. To be honest, the car acted normal not like the first time.
Once again, thanks for everything.
I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future.
I did everything you said and I can believe how much dirt came out of the TB. I'm so glad you mentioned it to clean the TB. I finished the installation and then sea foamed. To be honest, the car acted normal not like the first time.
Once again, thanks for everything.
I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future.
#227
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Go back and look at the pics in the last 2 pages here- remove the clamp with your fingers- wiggle the hose off the metal tube/nipple that is attached to the intake manifold.
The metal tube going into the engine has the vacuum from the engine
Using the Deep Creep aerosol version of Seafoam, you shoot small amounts at a time into the metal tube.
The metal tube going into the engine has the vacuum from the engine
Using the Deep Creep aerosol version of Seafoam, you shoot small amounts at a time into the metal tube.
Thanks dude got it
#230
zaino'd
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Going on a roadtrip this coming weekend and would like to do this before I take off.
One question: wheres the best place to do this?? I live in an apartment complex so I don't want to smoke my neighbors out! Maybe in a forest preserve at night? It requires two people right? Car has 53K miles so lots of smoke is expected.
Ah I gotta read up on the process today and tomorrow. Already got a 16oz can of this stuff sitting at home waiting!
One question: wheres the best place to do this?? I live in an apartment complex so I don't want to smoke my neighbors out! Maybe in a forest preserve at night? It requires two people right? Car has 53K miles so lots of smoke is expected.
Ah I gotta read up on the process today and tomorrow. Already got a 16oz can of this stuff sitting at home waiting!
#231
Well I just SeaFoamed my 04 TL with 73k miles. Purchased a 16oz can and used half to suck through the vacuum line right above the throttle body and dumped the other half into the gas tank with a quarter tank. Let it sit for 15 minutes then took it for a drive holding it around 4k RPMs. It smoked like crazy for the first 20 seconds or so. Drove past some lady on her phone who was walking around in my neighborhood. I felt really bad because it was no joke like a huge burnout driving by.
Drove for about 10 minutes to go eat so the car sat for about an hour then drove it for another 15 minutes on the freeway to the movies (new Batman movie is great by the way). Did a few pulls where I could and held it at 3,500-4,000RPMs most of the way. Still have quite a bit of gas left but I'll use it up driving to and from work this week before filling her back up.
Car wasn't running bad or anything before but I just wanted to clean up some of that carbon build-up in the combustion chamber and also clean the injectors. Hopefully the SeaFoam has done its job. Might do another application in 2,000 miles but I don't know yet. I picked up some Redline SI-1 Fuel Injector cleaner as well but I'm holding off on that.
Drove for about 10 minutes to go eat so the car sat for about an hour then drove it for another 15 minutes on the freeway to the movies (new Batman movie is great by the way). Did a few pulls where I could and held it at 3,500-4,000RPMs most of the way. Still have quite a bit of gas left but I'll use it up driving to and from work this week before filling her back up.
Car wasn't running bad or anything before but I just wanted to clean up some of that carbon build-up in the combustion chamber and also clean the injectors. Hopefully the SeaFoam has done its job. Might do another application in 2,000 miles but I don't know yet. I picked up some Redline SI-1 Fuel Injector cleaner as well but I'm holding off on that.
#232
throw the redline in when you gas up- but only put in half a tank so it works at max doesage-
When you do the hot foot run after seafoam you really need to follow the directions in the diy if you expect it to work properly and fully.
Dont bitch if you only drove 10 minutes then parked for an hour- and dont get amazing results.
For those needing a place to foam- I drive up the freeway a few exits at 4000 rpm to get to a place with fast food, use the back area of the parking lot and point the exhaust downwind- wind blowing the smoke away from you- make sure its not blowing into the building!
People open the hood and have a look all the time- your just another car.
Wash ypur hands and grab a burger- the 15 minute percolate time is up and you go for the drive.
I cannopt say loudly enough for noobs- buy seafoam- 1 can for 1/2 tank of gas- let it be in there and woprking for a while
AND BUy seafoam in the aerosol spray can version sold as DEEP CREEP
It makes it way better for getting in the slow small amounts we want at a time- should take 10 -miuntes to get in 8-12oz into the vac port.
Make sure to clean the TB plate as well.
When you do the hot foot run after seafoam you really need to follow the directions in the diy if you expect it to work properly and fully.
Dont bitch if you only drove 10 minutes then parked for an hour- and dont get amazing results.
For those needing a place to foam- I drive up the freeway a few exits at 4000 rpm to get to a place with fast food, use the back area of the parking lot and point the exhaust downwind- wind blowing the smoke away from you- make sure its not blowing into the building!
People open the hood and have a look all the time- your just another car.
Wash ypur hands and grab a burger- the 15 minute percolate time is up and you go for the drive.
I cannopt say loudly enough for noobs- buy seafoam- 1 can for 1/2 tank of gas- let it be in there and woprking for a while
AND BUy seafoam in the aerosol spray can version sold as DEEP CREEP
It makes it way better for getting in the slow small amounts we want at a time- should take 10 -miuntes to get in 8-12oz into the vac port.
Make sure to clean the TB plate as well.
#233
On the CAI install: Clean the TB plate while the air filter system is removed and the TB is directly accessable- use carb cleaner or deep creep spray and wash the crud off- wipe up excess- with engine off. Then with engien running spray some thru the throotle plate and at its edges- get is as clean as you can.
The seafoam treatment you can do before or after the CAI install- but it will be way more fun hot foot drive with the new stuff on~
The seafoam treatment you can do before or after the CAI install- but it will be way more fun hot foot drive with the new stuff on~
#234
zaino'd
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
For those needing a place to foam- I drive up the freeway a few exits at 4000 rpm to get to a place with fast food, use the back area of the parking lot and point the exhaust downwind- wind blowing the smoke away from you- make sure its not blowing into the building!
People open the hood and have a look all the time- your just another car.
Wash ypur hands and grab a burger- the 15 minute percolate time is up and you go for the drive.
I cannopt say loudly enough for noobs- buy seafoam- 1 can for 1/2 tank of gas- let it be in there and woprking for a while
AND BUy seafoam in the aerosol spray can version sold as DEEP CREEP
It makes it way better for getting in the slow small amounts we want at a time- should take 10 -miuntes to get in 8-12oz into the vac port.
Make sure to clean the TB plate as well.
People open the hood and have a look all the time- your just another car.
Wash ypur hands and grab a burger- the 15 minute percolate time is up and you go for the drive.
I cannopt say loudly enough for noobs- buy seafoam- 1 can for 1/2 tank of gas- let it be in there and woprking for a while
AND BUy seafoam in the aerosol spray can version sold as DEEP CREEP
It makes it way better for getting in the slow small amounts we want at a time- should take 10 -miuntes to get in 8-12oz into the vac port.
Make sure to clean the TB plate as well.
So I have the 16oz can... you're saying to pour that into 1/2 a tank of gas, instead of the 8oz into 1/4 tank, 8oz into vac line...? Then buy Deep Creep for the vac line? Makes sense. Guess I'll make another run to AutoZone this week. Is the TB cleaning process necessary/beneficial? Or just a routine thing to do?
#235
that metal tube from the valve cover to the rubber intake snout on the stock setup- thats bringing vapors of oil and partially burned fuel and dumping it right at the TB throttle butterfly plate. Just wait till you see how much stuff is on there- it runs off as you spray it.
Its routine maitenance in my opinion, but not something found in the book.
The plate has a part in smooth idle since it seals or nearly seals at idle, and affects airflow into the TB if its not clean and smooth.
You dont need 2 people to seafoam- one careful person using the spray can will have no problems. If the engien stalls- restart it- now you know how much is too fast and too much!!
Its routine maitenance in my opinion, but not something found in the book.
The plate has a part in smooth idle since it seals or nearly seals at idle, and affects airflow into the TB if its not clean and smooth.
You dont need 2 people to seafoam- one careful person using the spray can will have no problems. If the engien stalls- restart it- now you know how much is too fast and too much!!
#236
when you only do 8 oz in 1/4 tank- then you get a few gallons thru and the fuel light cones on- what do you do- add a few more gallons?- now whats that dilution? then what?
By using a whole can in half tank- you will go at least 5 gallons at full cleaning dose strength. Run it a gallon or whatever you are comfortable with past the fuel light and refill.
Make it easy- do a more thorough job- get better results- this pays back fast with todays gas price
By using a whole can in half tank- you will go at least 5 gallons at full cleaning dose strength. Run it a gallon or whatever you are comfortable with past the fuel light and refill.
Make it easy- do a more thorough job- get better results- this pays back fast with todays gas price
#237
I'm sure 10 minutes of driving at 4k RPMs is more than enough to have burned off the SeaFoam that was sucked through the vacuum line. The rest of the work is just the SeaFoam in the fuel tank. I'll probably do another application in 2,000 miles just because I'm sure there is a ton of carbon build-up at 73k miles. The throttle body could use some cleaning too I'm sure. I'll have to grab some of that Deep Creep.
#239
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after the sip-sip slurp i waited 15 minutes and drove off. i put in a little over half of the 16oz can in. the car sputtered and then i heard the dreaded pinging noise for a few seconds that has also happened to a few other board members. the car runs great now, but i hope that the pinging didn't damage anything.
anyone know exactly what is going on? my guess is that it seems like there was a tiny pool of seafoam backed up on the bottom of the rods that took a second to pass through the system, like hydrolock except it was able to get dissipated like gas. ugghh.
anyone know exactly what is going on? my guess is that it seems like there was a tiny pool of seafoam backed up on the bottom of the rods that took a second to pass through the system, like hydrolock except it was able to get dissipated like gas. ugghh.
#240
This thread is all over the place can someone post a no kidding step by step start to finish for dummies seafoam procedure including info on if you need new spark plugs or an oil change afterwards.