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Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the Krell system in the RLX already comes with a sub?
Also, my understanding is that Krell system in the RLX is designed specifically for the RLX itself. Would it ruin the experience if there are changes made?
yes its the NOISE they listen too..... its FAR FAR from MUSIC !!!!! They want to FEEL it and make US Hear that NOISE too !!!! Wait till they need hearing aids at 40 years of age...btw I listen to most tunes but not that cRAP... Rant over.....
Man you guys are quite critical of a simple question. I think the sub is weak. It is ok in volume but does not go low.
If you listen to other premium sound systems you can hear a big difference. A couple of other cars would be the tesla model S and the BMW x3 Harmon kardon that I have I feel sound better.
Im over 40. Good way to pile on someone without knowing what music they listen to. Boom boom yo yo... really?
Such a strange reaction.
I see a lot of people have added a sub to the TLX. If anyone has the amp diagrams or tips to share on ANC I'm all ears.
Yes it is. It would come really handy for you, since you are thinking of upgrading the system.
There is a lot more steps that I can't post, because either there way too much info or their website is not working correctly (like at the moment)
Just a word of caution: You basically need to dismantle the whole rear of the car, including the back seat and seat back, the C-Pillars, and the trunk upper tray. The most important part is that there are airbags there, so you will need to be extremely careful!
Not judging the original poster in any way, but I also find the bass of the Krell system to be perfect for my taste as is the overall "clarity" of the system. That said, I have found that the "feel" of the bass is dependent on the source of the music as much as the system itself. You can get wonderfully clear bass but with more of the "boom-boom" feel that fits some music styles but only with some sources (purely based on my experience).
My recommendation for the OP (if he hasn't already done so) would be to experiment with sources to see if that gives him some of the additional bass he is seeking before ripping apart his car and adding a subwoofer.
Just the two cents of a guy who is as far from an audiophile as possible.
Thanks, pgeorg, for the information given to the OP of this thread. I don't know of anyone who has done this with their RLX. Appreciate those like you who think a little outside of the box. Report on your results!
I am looking to add a sub to my factory system as well, though i dont have Krell, just ELS. I plan on letting my aftermarket sub handle all of the mid/bass and the door speakers handle the highs. Im simply disconnecting the 8 and using a line out converter for the aftermarket sub and it looks like its gonna be a hassle running a power wire for the amp if i go DIY, and there is NO info out there for the RLX audio wise.. may just bite the bullet and have it installed professionally but i'm in no hurry..
It'd be cool to see a nerdy, audiophile-style comparison of the two subwoofers. Sound is so subjective. I'd probably appreciate more bass, but the Krell system does provide sharp, clear bass from what it does provide.
I had it installed, cost $149. They tapped into the amp, they said the speaker did not have enough level strength. When I get time to open the side panel trim I will check which wires they tapped into.
Sub online was $152 and install was 149, wire kit was $13.
A 12" subwoofer does give better low bass HZ then any 8" sub can produce. That 150watt 12" is just enough to make up the difference from the 8" sub without making the trunk rattle.
I had it installed, cost $149. They tapped into the amp, they said the speaker did not have enough level strength. When I get time to open the side panel trim I will check which wires they tapped into.
Sub online was $152 and install was 149, wire kit was $13.
Also comes with a bass level control knob.
Can you post a pic of your install in the trunk please?
Hey guys, planning on installing a sub this weekend. I have a punch P300-10 powered sub laying around and it's overdue for the RLX. The factory sub is OK but no where near the performance of a dedicated powered sub. I have the Krell package and any low bass beats in the RLX at higher volumes and the sub chokes. I think with the great highs and mids and imaging that I do hear in the Krell package the addition of a good sub will without a doubt take it up a notch.
I looked around to start planning the wiring and didn't find much space to route it through the firewall other than squeezing it in with the main wiring grommet. Does anyone know of any other entry points in through the firewall so I don't have to try squeezing through the main wiring grommet?
@drsaab or anyone else with an aftermarket install, please share pics of your install if you can! Also curious to what wires we're used for the input...
Thanks, pgeorg, for the information given to the OP of this thread. I don't know of anyone who has done this with their RLX. Appreciate those like you who think a little outside of the box. Report on your results!
My respect to those people who know what they want, and are willing to do the work to make it happen.
Install complete...
Went easier than I had expected. I grabbed some pictures for anyone else interested.
Hardest part was getting the power cable through the firewall. After looking at all the possible options in, I decided it had to go in through the main grommet on the drivers side.
I cut into the grommet from the drivers side once I had the hole cut I pushed a screwdriver in and pushed until it popped through the other side. Push the power cable through making sure it's on the inside of the grommet and not on the outside of it where it could contact any metal. Remove all of the plastic covers on the kick-panel first, they come out fairly easy.
From there it's easy if you have ever installed an / amp or powered sub before. I connected a PAC SNI 35 line input adapter to the sub-woofer output (near the speaker) for the input to the sub-woofer, ran the subwoofer remote dial up the front so I can adjust on the fly. No permanent modifications to the car, If needed I could remove it and the only evidence would be a slight cut in the firewall grommet. The Rockford Fosgate 10" sub fits perfect, nice and snug a single strip of Velcro keeps it locked in, You couldn't pull it out if you tried unless you insert something thin underneath the sub to break the seal between the carpet and the Velcro. Just need to tidy up the wiring with some more cable ties tomorrow and tune it some more, initial sound checks we're awesome, Bass is nice and tight and compliments the Krell package perfectly.
Power cable through firewall Grommet. cable routing along panel Fuse and battery connection snug up against the back, just need to tidy up the cabling and all done...
Nice!! I am starting my install today! And judging from your pictures, my theory was correct in assuming I would have to go through the main grommet.. Thank you sir
- Did you leave the Krell sub connected ? I assume yes....
- Your amplifier is in the box? What size/specamp?
- Power install is clean. Nice work. Where did you get the line level (i.e. un-amplified) low frequency signal from?
I need a 12v acc source for my amp since its not an all in one like jonbl8z's, any ideas? Scott in AZ- I assume he is using a line out converter, me too, and I'm using the signal from the factory sub, and I am disconnecting it so only my added sub is used.
I probably won't do this ... but I am thinking about it ... ... but since B1 and B11 (Sub+ and Sub-) are line-level, un-amplified signals with bass-only audio frequencies ... there's PROBABLY no reason not to daisy-chain them from the Krell (in series, not in parallel), and run a seperate amplified sub in series (not in parallel) with the Krell sub. I can dial the frequency on the crossover for the separate sub way down to below 50hz... about where I believe the Krell's are dropping off ... and run both subs.
Alternatively, and probably better I could install a really good crossover on B1/B11, upstream of the Krell sub, and then split B1/B11 low pass to the new sub, and B1/B11 high(er) pass to the Krell. That way I would have 20hz-50hz "thump" running on the new sub and 50hz+ on the Krell.
Either way I'll probably filter-out or crossover-out frequency above 50hz to the new sub to prevent it from competing with the Krell sub.
Thanks, Rez, DrSaab, and PGeorge and Jon for all the insight.
I left the Krell Sub connected as well and used the same Red and Green connections for the input. For tuning, I balance between the factory subwoofer + - adjustments mixed with the remote dial from the Rockford. I like this setup, If I need to I can just turn the dial all the way down and I am back to stock sound.
If anybody with ELS is interested in doing this, I used the #13 accessory fuse for my remote turn on for the amp. I unplugged the factory sub and used the factory harness to connect my line out converter, and grounded the amp to the frame underneath the removable floor in the trunk, and used the same method as jonbl8z to run the power wire. Install complete.
If anybody with ELS is interested in doing this, I used the #13 accessory fuse for my remote turn on for the amp. I unplugged the factory sub and used the factory harness to connect my line out converter, and grounded the amp to the frame underneath the removable floor in the trunk, and used the same method as jonbl8z to run the power wire. Install complete.
12-13-2016, 09:19 PM
