justnspace

iTrader: (1)

i cant tell the difference between M1 0w-40 and redlines 5w-30 at all.

I hate cars

That's because after 500 miles they are the same viscosity.

tommy97132

I use royal purple. 5w-20. After 4 oil changes the valves really quiet down. I used Mobil 1 time only because I was short on cash and it started ticking again. But even I went and changed the oil again and out royal purple it went quiet again. I love this stuff.

Rare87GT

I run Amsoil and do oil changes every 10k.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I've been told that Royal Purple is crap...I used it to finish off what I had. I might try Amsoil next...especially if you can go 10K between changes.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Jeremy if I remember right, IHC was mentioning that most GRP4 oils can go 10K+ interval, its the filter you have to be careful off....

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I bought really good metal insert fillers since I read that.
IHC was the one that said RP was crap too, IIRC.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Yup he did....anything transmission or oil usually comes from him and us quoting him/learning from his words haha....

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

but I taught him all he knows about panda yoga though...don't let him tell you otherwise

16MattM16

Mobile 1 10W-30

mvp2765

iTrader: (1)

same as above^

beyond 1000

Amsoil - 5w20 and change that every 5000m or 8000km.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I usually do Mobile 1 also...it's cheap at Wal-mart

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I get mine at Advance Auto Parts...

5qts of Mobil 1 + M1 filter are 32-34 bucks
5qts of Mobil 1 EP + M1 EP Filter is like 36-37 bucks


Those filters are like 12-13 bucks other places...

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

redline 5w-30 after being put in my place by IHC haha...no longer running RP for oil, only filters

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Isnt Redline's 5w-30 very very thick?

I know he (IHC) was telling me (since I run Mobil1 EP), that Redline 5w20 = Mobil1 EP 5W30 in viscosity...



Here is a little summary from the excel I had made:

For Redline:
SAE Viscosity Grade - Redline 5W20 - Redline 5W30
Vis @ 100°C, cSt ------- 9.1 ---------- 10.6
Vis @ 40°C, cSt -------- 55 ----------- 62
Viscosity Index -------- 145 ----------- 162
Flash Point deg C ------ 251 ----------- 252
HTHS ------------------ 3.3 ----------- 3.8

FOR Mobil1 EP:
SAE Viscosity Grade - M1EP 5W20 - M1EP 5W30
Vis @ 100°C, cSt -------- 8.9 -------- 10.6
Vis @ 40°C, cSt --------- 49.6 ------- 59.8
Viscosity Index ---------- 161 -------- 169
Flash Point deg C -------- 230 -------- 230
HTHS ------------------- 2.75 -------- 3

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Anil...you're such a dork.
but it seems to pay off.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I like doing my research

MetalGhost99

Mobil 1 full synthetic ever since I got the car.

MetalGhost99

Oh shoot I've never replaced my blinker fluid. I'm going to get this done. Thanks a bunch.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

it's not that thick.

CrazyEights

iTrader: (1)

Surprised no one has mentioned Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. I use that in combination with a Purolator PureOne filter, seems like a quality combination for a fair price to boot.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I use Shell Rotella 5W-40. It's great.

Nick216

Found a redline dealer close by. Bout to get them fluidsss.

CrazyEights

iTrader: (1)

Helps I can throw it in the CBR too (even though I can't ride it right now), so I just pick up two gallons of it and I'm set for both vehicles.

I hate cars

I was just saying M1 5w-40 is known to literally sheer to a 30wt well before it's time to change it. It's a very good oil, the sheering doesn't seem to hurt performance and the HTHT is what matters in use and it's good. Kinematic viscosity is no where near as important as HTHS viscosity.

That Rotella is another badass oil, especially for the price but even without price factored in.

One for you guys to look at if you want a very robust grp IV syn that keeps the engine spotless is Amsoil ACD. It's a straight 30 that qualifies as a 10w-30. Not for every climate but very good stuff. Other than once for a job up in Lake Tahoe and another in Flagstaff where I ran Mobil One 0w-20 and a quick run on SSO 0w-30 I've only had the ACD and Redline in my car.

I hate cars

It's the HTHS, Redlines 20wt has a higher HTHSv than most others 30wts. You get decent pumpability and it keeps things separated when the going gets tough. The HTHS is the best indicator of how the base oil is going to perform under stress. Will it give up and sheer down a few weights or will it retain it's viscosity while in a bearing or a ring pack.


Their 0w-20 has almost an identical HTHS as Mobil's 5w-30 which is amazing because the 0w oils are where most oils HTHSv goes down quickly. This is why you can usually run one grade thinner in Redline.

kingkong_dav

I use to swear by RP which is good but I found something new . Pennzoil pure plus. It's the shit

nfnsquared

There's absolutely nothing spectacular about PPP's spec sheet. They do claim to have superior detergent additives. If that claim holds true, then I'd say they have a leg up only in that area. Otherwise, it's specs are on par with most major semi-synthetics. The whole "made from natural gas" is nothing but a marketing gimmick.

Don't get me wrong, it's a very fine oil, and as I said, the detergent additives may indeed be superior.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I wonder, at what point all of this matters for us that aren't pushing the engine's limits, forcing air down it's throat, and are good about our 3/5K interval changes.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^Nothing. We could all use dino at 3/5k intervals.

Doing oil changes this weekend and finally going to M1 EP in the TL. 99,890 miles this morning.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I think at the only point if you track your car or your car see's higher RPM for an elongated period (like at a track)....

Thats exactly what I posted last week on Page 8...

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Again am not sure if Seafoam does anything (many people praise it and a lot of people call it a simple myth)....

But I have been running M1 EP/PP/Valvoline and ran Redline only for 2 oil changes (maybe 3) but thats about it....certainly not enough times to keep the heads clean from the detergents in the Redline oil....

I have run Seafoam every 15K miles....1/2 can in gas tank (with about a gallon and half in the tank), 1/2 can in through vac port and a full can in the crankcase....

let the gas run out almost completely....get some new gas in....change oil within 100 miles of putting seafoam in the crank case

CrazyEights

iTrader: (1)

I too, buy into the Seafoam affect, I got my TL with 152000 miles on it, did the Seafoam in the tank and vacuum line and took her out for a spin, a friend behind he said he wishes he would have recorded it, light gray smoke for a while.

However, the crank case, I put it in the 98 accord I had with 200k miles (40 of them mine), it soon began leaking oil, not a lot, and I don't know if it was caused by the Seafoam, but I'm confident after a few changes with Rotella for the TL, if anything was built up, it will be on its way out.

Nick216

my friend with a s/c grandprix did seafoam. som1 called the fire department my block was straight smoke

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

haha yeah the first time I seafoamed, I was scurrred....

smoke everywhere LOL....

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

If I'm not changing the plugs I don't like to SF. :/

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^the first time I did seafoam in the crankcase, I switched out the plugs...

I switch my plugs every 75K miles (which is a very short time since the NGK's can go to 110-125K miles)....I didnt see much fouling, so next time when I seafoamed, I did not change the plugs out

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Just old habit I guess. I used to SF/plugs every 3 oil changes on the H22.

I hate cars

What happened to this thread? Seafoam in the vac port is not only a worthless waste of money, it's dangerous. I just replied to a thread last night where someone hydrolocked their engine and blamed it on all if the stuff it must've been cleaning.

There is nothing to clean in our engines that would help performance. Anything in the intake manifold is superficial. The combustion chambers stay extremely clean on their own. If you've ever looked at an intake manifold before and after Seafoam you would be hard pressed to see a difference anyway.

I just wrote the mechanism in which Seafoam makes people believe it works but I'm not going to type it up again.

In the crank case it's dangerous. It's a solvent. It thins the oil, lowering it's ability to protect and it can even hurt seals.

Again, I ask for any reasonable explanation of how any performance can be realized from this over hyped crap. I'm the guy that runs a very expensive oil and changes it too often, same with the trans fluid. I change my coolant every 2 years. I do a drain and fill on the power steering with Redline ATF and I get some heat for wasting money on these products but I'm not about to throw my money away on sucking a solvent through a vacuum port. Water is a much better material for combustion chamber cleaning if you just can't help yourself.

Again, anything in the intake manifold is superficial. There would have to be 100x more crap I there before a measurable performance increase could be seen. The combustion chambers stay very clean and you don't get the constant buildup as we used to with leaded gas and carburetors which is the only combo that might require a top engine cleaning.

The DI engines that have extreme bowl area deposits are recommended to be torn down to the heads for cleanings, not to stick a liquid down the intake manifold that has the potential to not only hydrolock but to wash down the cylinder walls. It's a lot of risk for zero gain.

All you ever have to do is run premium fuel, use a decent oil and change it regularly. There will be nothing to clean.

If you want an amazing product for the crank case, Auto-Rx is the best there is. It's a mix of esters and it cleans the crank case over a 3,000 mile interval. It lubricates as well or better than the oil. It's gentle since it's not a solvent. It's not going to break big chunks of crap off. It's not necessary either if you have taken care of the engine regardless of the mileage.