Another 04 TL 6MT Transmission Oil Change Thread - With Pics 3G Garage #C-013
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Another 04 TL 6MT Transmission Oil Change Thread - With Pics 3G Garage #C-013
So after reading the 4 or 5 transmission oil change threads, I figured I'd start my own.
Here are the pics:
http://www.mpegbox.com/AcuraTL/6MT_O...nge/index.html
I was going to use a quart pump to pump in the oil from the check bolt location, but after reading that that bolt is only 7mm I decided against it (the hose of my pump was 8mm across!!)
I went the route of not removing all the stuff like the manual says. This is what I did:
First I bought the oil. I used www.paceperformance.com
12377916 -GM SyncroMesh Manual Transmission Fluid- Friction Modified
I ordered 3 quarts at 9.59 each plus 9.95 UPS shipping.
Then I went to the local Acura Dealer and picked up the two washers:
94109-14000 $0.36 - drain washer
94109-20000 $1.17 - fill washer
I opt out of the check bolt washer.
Next I got a really long black funnel from Fred Meyer for 2 dollars.
Then I got a 3/8 ratchet extension kit from Sears.
Next I put the car on ramps in the garage, I used Plastic Rhino Ramps. They are cool because 1: the car will actually go up them unlike my metal ramps, and 2: they have a cool rubber pad that grips the garage floor, so I don't slide into my wall.
I pulled off the long skinny bottom cover and saw the drain bolt. My garage was level so I realized that if I took out the drain plug, a good bit of oil will not drain out.
Then I brought the car down, turned it around and put the ramps on my downward sloped driveway. I hate having a steep driveway and this was the only time I didn't mind it as much. At this point the car was mostly level, slightly down in front.
Took out the Drain Bolt and let the oil drain into an oil catcher tub.
Then I took off the air filter cap and un-did the pipe clamp. I didn't disconnect the tube on the side of the air filter boot.
Now I could get my 10" plus 4" extension down to the fill plug. I took it off. I noticed the washer was pressed onto the housing pretty tight after the plug was out, I had to use a screw driver to pry it off the housing.
Then I put the funnel into the fill hole. It fit perfect.
I then torque down the drain plug with new washer to 29 foot/pounds using the torque wrench.
Then I put two quarts of oil into the transmission. I then put another 0.3l of the third quart in.
Then I put the washer on the fill plug site and put in the fill plug, holding on to it with the 10 inch 3/8 ratchet extension, then hooked up the 4 inch extension to the 10 inch one and torque it to about 33 foot/pounds. I could feel it crushing the new washer once it got to about 25 foot pounds.
Then I put the air filter cap back on put on the air filter boot pipe clamp, put the battery cover on. Put the bottom cover back on and drove around.
-Jeff
Here are the pics:
http://www.mpegbox.com/AcuraTL/6MT_O...nge/index.html
I was going to use a quart pump to pump in the oil from the check bolt location, but after reading that that bolt is only 7mm I decided against it (the hose of my pump was 8mm across!!)
I went the route of not removing all the stuff like the manual says. This is what I did:
First I bought the oil. I used www.paceperformance.com
12377916 -GM SyncroMesh Manual Transmission Fluid- Friction Modified
I ordered 3 quarts at 9.59 each plus 9.95 UPS shipping.
Then I went to the local Acura Dealer and picked up the two washers:
94109-14000 $0.36 - drain washer
94109-20000 $1.17 - fill washer
I opt out of the check bolt washer.
Next I got a really long black funnel from Fred Meyer for 2 dollars.
Then I got a 3/8 ratchet extension kit from Sears.
Next I put the car on ramps in the garage, I used Plastic Rhino Ramps. They are cool because 1: the car will actually go up them unlike my metal ramps, and 2: they have a cool rubber pad that grips the garage floor, so I don't slide into my wall.
I pulled off the long skinny bottom cover and saw the drain bolt. My garage was level so I realized that if I took out the drain plug, a good bit of oil will not drain out.
Then I brought the car down, turned it around and put the ramps on my downward sloped driveway. I hate having a steep driveway and this was the only time I didn't mind it as much. At this point the car was mostly level, slightly down in front.
Took out the Drain Bolt and let the oil drain into an oil catcher tub.
Then I took off the air filter cap and un-did the pipe clamp. I didn't disconnect the tube on the side of the air filter boot.
Now I could get my 10" plus 4" extension down to the fill plug. I took it off. I noticed the washer was pressed onto the housing pretty tight after the plug was out, I had to use a screw driver to pry it off the housing.
Then I put the funnel into the fill hole. It fit perfect.
I then torque down the drain plug with new washer to 29 foot/pounds using the torque wrench.
Then I put two quarts of oil into the transmission. I then put another 0.3l of the third quart in.
Then I put the washer on the fill plug site and put in the fill plug, holding on to it with the 10 inch 3/8 ratchet extension, then hooked up the 4 inch extension to the 10 inch one and torque it to about 33 foot/pounds. I could feel it crushing the new washer once it got to about 25 foot pounds.
Then I put the air filter cap back on put on the air filter boot pipe clamp, put the battery cover on. Put the bottom cover back on and drove around.
-Jeff
#2
Thanks for the excellent writeup and pictures. I am adding this to the 3G Garage.
The following users liked this post:
IntactACK (06-20-2013)
#3
AZ Community Team
Nice writeup and pictures.
Reminds me to do the same kind of writeup when I change the front brake pads on my 6MT when that time comes.
Reminds me to do the same kind of writeup when I change the front brake pads on my 6MT when that time comes.
#4
Intermediate
iTrader: (1)
I just did this today... I got around removing everything under the hood by slightly modifying my pump to fill the check hole.
I used the nozzle that is standard use on air compressors. Usually to fill up beach balls, rafts...things of that variety. I have a pic, but can't seem to figure out how to post it. Someone want to post it for me?? I did this job in about 40 minutes and it is the first time I have done it.
I used the nozzle that is standard use on air compressors. Usually to fill up beach balls, rafts...things of that variety. I have a pic, but can't seem to figure out how to post it. Someone want to post it for me?? I did this job in about 40 minutes and it is the first time I have done it.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TLinNOVA
I just did this today... I got around removing everything under the hood by slightly modifying my pump to fill the check hole.
I used the nozzle that is standard use on air compressors. Usually to fill up beach balls, rafts...things of that variety. I have a pic, but can't seem to figure out how to post it. Someone want to post it for me?? I did this job in about 40 minutes and it is the first time I have done it.
I used the nozzle that is standard use on air compressors. Usually to fill up beach balls, rafts...things of that variety. I have a pic, but can't seem to figure out how to post it. Someone want to post it for me?? I did this job in about 40 minutes and it is the first time I have done it.
Jeff
Trending Topics
#9
2007 TL Type-S NBP
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Rexburg, Idaho
Age: 49
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
I found out that we can get away with not removing anything at all to get the fill bolt out. I spent ten dollars on a Universal Joint Socket and five bucks on a "Measu-funnel" at AutoZone that has about a foot of hose on the end of it. Using the Universal Joint socket and two ten inch extensions I was easily able to get to the fill bolt without removing a thing. Saved me a bit of time and effort compared to pulling my air cleaner apart, never mind the whole battery and tray like the service manual loons say. I'm guessing that advice was based more on service department revenue than actual necessity.
#10
Registered Member
I found out that we can get away with not removing anything at all to get the fill bolt out. I spent ten dollars on a Universal Joint Socket and five bucks on a "Measu-funnel" at AutoZone that has about a foot of hose on the end of it. Using the Universal Joint socket and two ten inch extensions I was easily able to get to the fill bolt without removing a thing. Saved me a bit of time and effort compared to pulling my air cleaner apart, never mind the whole battery and tray like the service manual loons say. I'm guessing that advice was based more on service department revenue than actual necessity.
#11
'06 WDP TL 6MT
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for posting up the part #s for the washers, this was exactly what I was looking for. I was able to find it through the 3G Garage without having to start a new thread asking for info, since someone already went through the trouble of putting this together!
#12
2007 6SMT Type-S
This wasn't the thread I found last night when I did mine, but the OP posted a section from the service manual and I swear it said to fill to the point that the oil over flows out of the fill hole. Am I mistaken? I added all 3 quarts to mine and it never over flowed. Did I do something wrong here???
#13
Race Director
This wasn't the thread I found last night when I did mine, but the OP posted a section from the service manual and I swear it said to fill to the point that the oil over flows out of the fill hole. Am I mistaken? I added all 3 quarts to mine and it never over flowed. Did I do something wrong here???
You don't fill until it overflows out the fill hole. There is a separate "oil check bolt" that you remove (it's above the drain bolt). You fill until oil runs out that hole, not the fill hole.
I'd remove the "oil check bolt" and let the extra drain out.
#14
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Correct. Want to remove the excess as pressure will build and force the fluid out areas where it's not supposed to be. Very important not to overfill the trans and the best way is to remove the check plug and fill the trans until the fluid reaches the bottom of the hole or starts to run out.
#16
the overexplainer
yup. IIRC it's a tiny little bolt facing the same direction as the drain plug. It also has its own little crush washer which is what makes it distinctive.
I didnt remove it. I just drained on level ground and filled the transmission with 2.3 (i measured 2 qt + just under 300 ml of fluid).
I didnt remove it. I just drained on level ground and filled the transmission with 2.3 (i measured 2 qt + just under 300 ml of fluid).
#17
Registered Member
Be most careful when removing and re-inserting the check (site) plug (bolt). It is rather small and only requires 8.7 ft/lbs of torque. Several people on this site have found out the way and have wrenched the head off of it because they didn't use a torque wrench. Now, try setting your torque wrench to 8.7 ft/lbs. This is why I don't remove this plug (bolt). I fill with 2 quarts 10 ounces and know all is well with the world.
#18
2007 6SMT Type-S
Okay, got it done last night. I didn't have a computer so I couldn't remember exactly where the check bolt was at. I took off 3 other bolts (damnit they were tight) before I found the small check bolt...also tighter than a nun's...[cough] to get off. Retightened with correct amount of lbs once it stopped draining out. I can rest well tonight.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mada51589
3G TL Problems & Fixes
79
05-03-2022 08:54 PM
Zonian22
Member Cars for Sale
3
11-14-2015 01:20 PM
Zonian22
Member Cars for Sale
1
09-02-2015 08:19 AM