Transmission slipping
#1
Transmission slipping
I have a 2000 3.2 TL with 147,000 miles. Located in cold CT. The transmission seems to be slipping when in d5, jerks a bit. Any idea what might cause this.
Also some fluid leaking out if front end not sure if it's tranny or motor oil. Tried some Lucas stop slip in trany and stop leak in oil did not seem to improve after that.
Also some fluid leaking out if front end not sure if it's tranny or motor oil. Tried some Lucas stop slip in trany and stop leak in oil did not seem to improve after that.
#2
Not sure if you have searched this forum much, but you will find tons of posts with the issues the trans in these TL's have. They are a faulty design- is yours original to the car? If so and you have made it to 147k then that is much more than many. Have you had the fluid changed along the way? How does it look on the dipstick now? Unfortunately, it is probably on its way out. You can try a 3x3 fluid change and see what happens but most times that is just a temporary fix.
#3
Codes
Just got check engine light
I'm not positive but Problem seems to be in gear 3/4
Codes
p0730 gear ratio incorrect
P0710 transmission fluid temperature sensor circuit malfunction Sensor A
FYI it is 4 degrees Fahrenheit here today.
I'm not positive but Problem seems to be in gear 3/4
Codes
p0730 gear ratio incorrect
P0710 transmission fluid temperature sensor circuit malfunction Sensor A
FYI it is 4 degrees Fahrenheit here today.
Not sure if you have searched this forum much, but you will find tons of posts with the issues the trans in these TL's have. They are a faulty design- is yours original to the car? If so and you have made it to 147k then that is much more than many. Have you had the fluid changed along the way? How does it look on the dipstick now? Unfortunately, it is probably on its way out. You can try a 3x3 fluid change and see what happens but most times that is just a temporary fix.
#4
Pro
You could try doing a 3x3 drain and fill but other than that when you start getting codes on these cars for the transmission, then 99% of the time its toast and you need to get a rebuild or do an AV6 swap.
#5
Lucas stop slip
Any success and adding Lucas stop slip through the dipstick
Also if doing the 3 x 3 is that better than a transmission flush.
And if I'm starting to have the slipping any idea how much longer I have till the transmission totally dies.
After that doesn't make any sense to rebuild the transmission or replace it what are the costs and pros and cons.
Thanks
Also if doing the 3 x 3 is that better than a transmission flush.
And if I'm starting to have the slipping any idea how much longer I have till the transmission totally dies.
After that doesn't make any sense to rebuild the transmission or replace it what are the costs and pros and cons.
Thanks
#6
Any success and adding Lucas stop slip through the dipstick
Also if doing the 3 x 3 is that better than a transmission flush.
And if I'm starting to have the slipping any idea how much longer I have till the transmission totally dies.
After that doesn't make any sense to rebuild the transmission or replace it what are the costs and pros and cons.
Thanks
Also if doing the 3 x 3 is that better than a transmission flush.
And if I'm starting to have the slipping any idea how much longer I have till the transmission totally dies.
After that doesn't make any sense to rebuild the transmission or replace it what are the costs and pros and cons.
Thanks
#7
Moderator
Any success and adding Lucas stop slip through the dipstick
Also if doing the 3 x 3 is that better than a transmission flush.
Never do a transmission flush on a Honda trans it means Death to it.. Only Honda can do a flush with low pressure machine, Most shops use a High Pressure which will destroy the transmission. The usual method for us is the 3x3 which gets the same results but takes a little longer to achieve. Adding an additive could probably make 3rd holds a little longer but its just a band aid and will most likely not work
And if I'm starting to have the slipping any idea how much longer I have till the transmission totally dies.
Usually only 3rd gear will slip badly, The trans in normal cases is fully functional until 2nd gear. 1st, 2nd and Reverse should also work fine. In the worst case the clutch debris will clog everything and not even 1st or Reverse will engage. What condition will you have?? That is the million dollar question.. How long until it gives? that is the trillion dollar question.
After that doesn't make any sense to rebuild the transmission or replace it what are the costs and pros and cons.
Do not rebuild, Just DONT. If you rebuild the trans it will fail again because rebuilding doesn't remove the flaw in design these transmissions have. Your best bet is to get an Accord V6 Transmission (aka AV6 Trans) from a 2006 or 2007 model (See the DIY in Main Page) its a Bolt On solution and those trans were Re-Designed from scratch which means they are a gazillion times more reliable and it should be cheaper than rebuilding depending on your area. If you go that route the TL becomes the most reliable machine in the planet.
Thanks
Also if doing the 3 x 3 is that better than a transmission flush.
Never do a transmission flush on a Honda trans it means Death to it.. Only Honda can do a flush with low pressure machine, Most shops use a High Pressure which will destroy the transmission. The usual method for us is the 3x3 which gets the same results but takes a little longer to achieve. Adding an additive could probably make 3rd holds a little longer but its just a band aid and will most likely not work
And if I'm starting to have the slipping any idea how much longer I have till the transmission totally dies.
Usually only 3rd gear will slip badly, The trans in normal cases is fully functional until 2nd gear. 1st, 2nd and Reverse should also work fine. In the worst case the clutch debris will clog everything and not even 1st or Reverse will engage. What condition will you have?? That is the million dollar question.. How long until it gives? that is the trillion dollar question.
After that doesn't make any sense to rebuild the transmission or replace it what are the costs and pros and cons.
Do not rebuild, Just DONT. If you rebuild the trans it will fail again because rebuilding doesn't remove the flaw in design these transmissions have. Your best bet is to get an Accord V6 Transmission (aka AV6 Trans) from a 2006 or 2007 model (See the DIY in Main Page) its a Bolt On solution and those trans were Re-Designed from scratch which means they are a gazillion times more reliable and it should be cheaper than rebuilding depending on your area. If you go that route the TL becomes the most reliable machine in the planet.
Thanks
I hope that helps.
Last edited by Skirmich; 02-17-2016 at 09:42 AM.
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#8
Thanks
How best to know what gears are slipping.
And if I have problem in reverse what does that tell me?
3rd should I check/change solenoids and do 3x3 first before looking into a new trans
How best to know what gears are slipping.
And if I have problem in reverse what does that tell me?
3rd should I check/change solenoids and do 3x3 first before looking into a new trans
#9
Thanks
How best to know what gears are slipping.
And if I have problem in reverse what does that tell me?
3rd should I check/change solenoids and do 3x3 first before looking into a new trans
How best to know what gears are slipping.
And if I have problem in reverse what does that tell me?
3rd should I check/change solenoids and do 3x3 first before looking into a new trans
#10
Moderator
It's always 3rd gear. But if you want to know put the trans in D-2 the trans will cycle between first and second you will notice no slipping. Now for 3rd gear check just slide the shifter into D3 and try to feel the lack of engagement when the trans tries to shift into 3rd.
In the worst case scenario the debris will clog most solenoids which will affect everything
In the worst case scenario the debris will clog most solenoids which will affect everything
#12
Moderator
Nope.. the issue resides in the 3rd gear clutch pack area... First of all lets analyze what a Clutch Pack is:
The Clutch Drum holds all those friction plates and friction disks.. Their purpose is that when the transmission sends hydro pressure to the disks they get together and engage the clutch drum into the gear.
In our dreaded B7WA (Transmission Name) What happens is that the main shaft that holds the clutch drum gets miss aligned with the oil passage and the pressure drops so the disks don't engage with full pressure which makes them mini-slip every time the trans shifts into third... With time the mini slips cause premature failure of the friction disks (They release debris in result which clogs the solenoid screens and affect the whole transmission), Once this happens the disks start to lose their friction material and make full metal to metal contact which will result in extreme slippage from that clutch drum. This is a serious design flaw that reduces the transmission life span considerably.. I've seen these transmissions opened and all the other clutch packs were literally brand new while the 3rd gear clutch pack was like it had 300000 miles in it.
The Clutch Drum holds all those friction plates and friction disks.. Their purpose is that when the transmission sends hydro pressure to the disks they get together and engage the clutch drum into the gear.
In our dreaded B7WA (Transmission Name) What happens is that the main shaft that holds the clutch drum gets miss aligned with the oil passage and the pressure drops so the disks don't engage with full pressure which makes them mini-slip every time the trans shifts into third... With time the mini slips cause premature failure of the friction disks (They release debris in result which clogs the solenoid screens and affect the whole transmission), Once this happens the disks start to lose their friction material and make full metal to metal contact which will result in extreme slippage from that clutch drum. This is a serious design flaw that reduces the transmission life span considerably.. I've seen these transmissions opened and all the other clutch packs were literally brand new while the 3rd gear clutch pack was like it had 300000 miles in it.
#13
I can't give any input on the tranny issue solution.
My tranny broke down at a beautiful 180K after a long life back n fourth across the country. It felt the slipping it had when it broke for about 100K...so very resilient even after signs of issue.
When it broke, I was on the inner lane of the freeway and it dropped to 2nd gear almost instantly. I had to pull over to the far outside lane and was lucky to do so without much traffic or danger....
I must warn...be very cautious where you drive your car with a bad tranny as it can be a very dangerous situation. I am a very well experienced driver but controlling a slipped tranny is something none of us can prepare too much for.
god speed and good luck with fixing your tranny...i'd swap for a manual if I were you. I had a buddy who had 5 trannies replaced by acura...broke down like flies every other month
My tranny broke down at a beautiful 180K after a long life back n fourth across the country. It felt the slipping it had when it broke for about 100K...so very resilient even after signs of issue.
When it broke, I was on the inner lane of the freeway and it dropped to 2nd gear almost instantly. I had to pull over to the far outside lane and was lucky to do so without much traffic or danger....
I must warn...be very cautious where you drive your car with a bad tranny as it can be a very dangerous situation. I am a very well experienced driver but controlling a slipped tranny is something none of us can prepare too much for.
god speed and good luck with fixing your tranny...i'd swap for a manual if I were you. I had a buddy who had 5 trannies replaced by acura...broke down like flies every other month
#15
Moderator
That is what the AV6 swap is for... The BAYA (Code name for AV6 Transmission) was completely re-designed to fix this issue instead of a 3 shaft layout is a 4 shaft layout which allows for better ATF Flow in between the clutch drums.
If you swap an AV6 trans and that trans slips you got bad luck of having a bad previous owner trans who didn't take care of it, Because the BAYA is literally bulletproof now. The only way to get a bad one is to buy a used one that the owner didn't maintain and thus shorten its lifespan.
Always check for ATF Look and Smell before buying and in the best scenario have a Warranty....
If you swap an AV6 trans and that trans slips you got bad luck of having a bad previous owner trans who didn't take care of it, Because the BAYA is literally bulletproof now. The only way to get a bad one is to buy a used one that the owner didn't maintain and thus shorten its lifespan.
Always check for ATF Look and Smell before buying and in the best scenario have a Warranty....
Last edited by Skirmich; 02-21-2016 at 02:41 PM.
#16
Wow I'm new here and to acura. And have a 2nd Gen car is great and all this transmission talk car runs and shifts amazing now is there any suggestions for best fluids I can change to luckily the car I bought has been serviced by acura all its life
#17
Moderator
Keep using ATF DW-1 (Honda/Acura OEM Stuff) don't bother using another fluid because it cant help a design flaw. Keep changing the ATF every year (Don't follow the manual) and that will probably keep you running for as long as it can. Fast changes help keep the ATF Life high which helps prevent ATF slippage.
#19
Are you sure about that? I thought the 06/07 AV6 still had a 3 shaft.
#20
Pro
Adding to that...the 3 shaft is a great design that Honda has used since the 80's. The reason these transmissions fail is from the valve body and not the shaft layout, design or function.
#22
Moderator
The fact automatic transmissions last that long?
I will leave this:
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...8205624AA8OpmQ
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...0201555AACDIAW
And obviously the most notorious...
The million mile Accord with supposedly the original Automatic transmission
Link: Million Mile Joe
I guess it will difficult to swallow the fact Auto Transmissions can last longer than they did back in 1970.
What are you basing to say it will last a lot less?
I will leave this:
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...8205624AA8OpmQ
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...0201555AACDIAW
And obviously the most notorious...
The million mile Accord with supposedly the original Automatic transmission
Link: Million Mile Joe
I guess it will difficult to swallow the fact Auto Transmissions can last longer than they did back in 1970.
What are you basing to say it will last a lot less?
#23
Drifting
^ Skirmich, you are an idiot.
Those trans you presented have absolutely no relevance to the av6. You are delusional if you believe they are.
I didn't say that the av6 won't go a 300,000 miles. What I am saying is, it's too early to say it will given the fact that the 06 av6 trans have not been around that long... 10 years.
10 × 20,000 miles a year comes out to 200,000 total. That is no where near 300,000 miles. That is how I know... idiot.
Here is a relevent example. It may not be conclusive but, at least it's relevant.
"I have an av6 trany in it, which had 75k and I have only driven the car 4-6k in the 2 years since I put the trany in.
according to my mechanic there is a clogged filter in the trans, since I have known him I have seen him do well over 20 Honda/acura trans, from the ody to the cl/tl accord pilot.
he told me to bring it by and he would do a flush and put in a filter kit at no charge, if that doesn't work then we'll see what else is the cause"
Below is the link.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-again-943055/
Those trans you presented have absolutely no relevance to the av6. You are delusional if you believe they are.
I didn't say that the av6 won't go a 300,000 miles. What I am saying is, it's too early to say it will given the fact that the 06 av6 trans have not been around that long... 10 years.
10 × 20,000 miles a year comes out to 200,000 total. That is no where near 300,000 miles. That is how I know... idiot.
Here is a relevent example. It may not be conclusive but, at least it's relevant.
"I have an av6 trany in it, which had 75k and I have only driven the car 4-6k in the 2 years since I put the trany in.
according to my mechanic there is a clogged filter in the trans, since I have known him I have seen him do well over 20 Honda/acura trans, from the ody to the cl/tl accord pilot.
he told me to bring it by and he would do a flush and put in a filter kit at no charge, if that doesn't work then we'll see what else is the cause"
Below is the link.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-again-943055/
#24
Moderator
WOW 1 transmission? seriously?
1 transmission is your only evidence....
Its like the last time you said our B7WA wasn't "As bas as this forum said to be"...
Also the second link I put was from a guy asking how long does the accord transmission last.. Regardless of year that is a direct question for an Accord transmission, Then I put the link for a guy riding a MILLION that is 1,000,000 miles in its 1990 Automatic transmission.
1 transmission is your only evidence....
Its like the last time you said our B7WA wasn't "As bas as this forum said to be"...
Also the second link I put was from a guy asking how long does the accord transmission last.. Regardless of year that is a direct question for an Accord transmission, Then I put the link for a guy riding a MILLION that is 1,000,000 miles in its 1990 Automatic transmission.
#25
Drifting
Lol. Yes, I referenced 1 trans. That's still 1 more than you referenced.
This is a 2g tl thread talking about 2g tl trans issues and you guys recommending av6 swaps.
For you to reference a honda 1990 trans is an idiotic comparison. And to reference transmissions in general is just grasping at straws.
This is a 2g tl thread talking about 2g tl trans issues and you guys recommending av6 swaps.
For you to reference a honda 1990 trans is an idiotic comparison. And to reference transmissions in general is just grasping at straws.
#26
Racer
Lol. Yes, I referenced 1 trans. That's still 1 more than you referenced.
This is a 2g tl thread talking about 2g tl trans issues and you guys recommending av6 swaps.
For you to reference a honda 1990 trans is an idiotic comparison. And to reference transmissions in general is just grasping at straws.
This is a 2g tl thread talking about 2g tl trans issues and you guys recommending av6 swaps.
For you to reference a honda 1990 trans is an idiotic comparison. And to reference transmissions in general is just grasping at straws.
I think the comparison between the '90 A/T and the '06/'07 was this:
Honda automatic transmissions during the 1980s and 1990s were perfectly reliable and seldom had issues and failures up until 1998.
The point is, is that while sure it's not going to last forever (nothing ever does, not even an manual transmission) it's a lot closer to the 1990 reliability than it is to the 1998-2003 reliability. Here's a thoughtful forum post by someone long ago as to what changed in the 90s:
Having read through many of your posts regarding Honda's AT failures, I felt a little on the skinny behind the failures was in order.
FYI, these failures are not limited to the 6 cylinder models, many of the 4 cyls fall victim to the same malaise: Honda's unashamed attempt at wooing the a different type of customer- the cushion/pillow drive craving, the captain's-chair-in-a-buick (with supersize cup-capable cupholders), the should be driven and not driving consumer.
See, fundamentally for those who do not know, Honda's transmissions (and engines for that matter) are closely related to the race motors they are derived from. Being race-bred this technology spills over into the marketplace were everyone from your average Jane to Joe Rocket can sample and love or lump it.
That said, let me formally introduce you to Honda's AT's. They are hydraulically actuated manual transmissions!
What does this mean? Well simply in means there's a little man in the gear box whose selecting gears for the driver, this so those who would rather not don't have to. However for those who want a more descriptive intro, read on.
In a syncromesh manual trans (which is what cars marketed today are equipped with) all you ratios are in constant mesh fixed on one shaft while freewheeling on the other. Gear selection is accomplished by locking the freewheeling gear of the desired ratio to the shaft it’s spinning on and voila! Your output is served. The make the transition between ratios smoother (as the different ratio gears are obviously turning at different speeds for a given shaft speed) clutch-like devices, known as "syncros" accel &/or decel gears in adjacent ratio pairs before the locks (dog clutches) engage.
Compared to your conventional epicyclical/planetary gear set automatic transmission, ratio selection is far easier, selection more positive and transmission design less complex for ratio addition. In view of this (and the fact that this conclusion had already been arrived at in racing circles, Honda devised and implemented a means of automating gear selection of their manual transmissions instead of lamely following convention. Their efforts yielded the hydraulically actuated manual transmission found in all their AT equipped vehicles.
"How did they achieve automation?" you may ask. Simple. By replacing the brass syncros with wet clutches, all they had to worry about was the ratio itself because clutch pack actuation was already a mastered technology.
The quirk to this transmission was that it had very positive shifts a consequence of wet clutches. Considered more of a boon than a nuisance to race teams, commuters found the shift quality rather alienating, especially since their previous exposure to AT's was limited to the forever-slipping-into-this-ratio-or-that conventional AT.
So the A[lmighty]HM charged to the rescue with soft shifting (read: longer slipping pre-engagement) transmissions. Of course slipping is not good for any clutch and a wet clutch is so not excluded. So in '96.5, Honda introduced phased clutch engagement. This allowed for partial engagement of your 'to' gear before your 'from' gear was fully disengaged. This allowed for dramatically smoother shifts than previous models. The ugly side to this advance was not to reel its ugly head for a couple of years. In late '97. DTC P0740- torque converter circuit failure- was discovered lurking somewhere in between the super-gizmo-wizardry of the PCM and the technologically advanced tranny.
Now early investigation found internal leaks &/or clogged valves to be the culprits.
OK. We thought.
But the shift quality still wasn't smooth enough. But before I get to what engineer's @ AHM decided to do, let me ask you all a question.
How many of you have ever wondered why Honda has always (not now in the advent of flattering emulation by other marques) had 2 drive selections: D3 and D4?
Hold that thought as we return to Honda's tranny refinery.
Realizing that pressure modulation was the to shift shock reduction and that clutches would only stand for so much abuse, Honda looked to a formerly overlooked resource for addition shock dampening: the torque converter clutch. Formerly only used to positively lock the crank to the input shaft, Honda decided to phase its engagement in further efforts to make the AT's operation transparent. It worked for a while. But while existing problems brewed, a whole new batch was thrown in. 740's were jumping all so acrobatically out of the wood work and the more powerful powertrains fell first but their less endowed siblings were soon to follow suit.
While driving, the softer shifts were aggressively wearing away clutch material sometimes in particles that were trapped in screens and filters other times in smaller ones that made it through these lines of defense. In the former situation, the filters (which by the way, are not serviceable) were clogged. This led to pressure loss, which exacerbated the transition duty of the clutches, affected essentially fuelling the vicious cycle's inferno of destruction. In the latter case, accumulation of deposits could occur in the fine passages of the valve body, in/on valve seats etc. Essentially depositing sh!t where it don't belong. Now add to this the fact that you average commuter drives in D4 at speeds that equate to the threshold of TCC engagement, the mapped criteria of engagement coupled with the advanced partial engagement modes of the TCC you have a recipe for ATF & Clutch stew. That's an artery clogger if I ever saw one! (No pun intended!).
In so much as these tranny failures seemed to come out of the woodwork all at once, it was actually the accumulation of un-addressed undesirable operational consequences that all came to a head.
Now the newer 5-spd transmissions have the ignominy of having a third working geared shaft. Unfortunately, prolonged torture testing for reliability of this set wasn’t long enough and internal lubrication and cooling weren't discovered until many owned vehicles with these ill-fated trannies in them. The fix: add point of correction cooling+lubrication by plumbing ATF to the problem. Hence the latest trans recall in a seemingly endless stream of tranny woes.
I must say one thing at this juncture. Redesign has rid the 5-spd transmissions of their heating problem and as for the earlier models, "Oh-oh, better get MAACO!" ;-)))
Sorry to take up so much of your time but I thought you might want to know.
FYI, these failures are not limited to the 6 cylinder models, many of the 4 cyls fall victim to the same malaise: Honda's unashamed attempt at wooing the a different type of customer- the cushion/pillow drive craving, the captain's-chair-in-a-buick (with supersize cup-capable cupholders), the should be driven and not driving consumer.
See, fundamentally for those who do not know, Honda's transmissions (and engines for that matter) are closely related to the race motors they are derived from. Being race-bred this technology spills over into the marketplace were everyone from your average Jane to Joe Rocket can sample and love or lump it.
That said, let me formally introduce you to Honda's AT's. They are hydraulically actuated manual transmissions!
What does this mean? Well simply in means there's a little man in the gear box whose selecting gears for the driver, this so those who would rather not don't have to. However for those who want a more descriptive intro, read on.
In a syncromesh manual trans (which is what cars marketed today are equipped with) all you ratios are in constant mesh fixed on one shaft while freewheeling on the other. Gear selection is accomplished by locking the freewheeling gear of the desired ratio to the shaft it’s spinning on and voila! Your output is served. The make the transition between ratios smoother (as the different ratio gears are obviously turning at different speeds for a given shaft speed) clutch-like devices, known as "syncros" accel &/or decel gears in adjacent ratio pairs before the locks (dog clutches) engage.
Compared to your conventional epicyclical/planetary gear set automatic transmission, ratio selection is far easier, selection more positive and transmission design less complex for ratio addition. In view of this (and the fact that this conclusion had already been arrived at in racing circles, Honda devised and implemented a means of automating gear selection of their manual transmissions instead of lamely following convention. Their efforts yielded the hydraulically actuated manual transmission found in all their AT equipped vehicles.
"How did they achieve automation?" you may ask. Simple. By replacing the brass syncros with wet clutches, all they had to worry about was the ratio itself because clutch pack actuation was already a mastered technology.
The quirk to this transmission was that it had very positive shifts a consequence of wet clutches. Considered more of a boon than a nuisance to race teams, commuters found the shift quality rather alienating, especially since their previous exposure to AT's was limited to the forever-slipping-into-this-ratio-or-that conventional AT.
So the A[lmighty]HM charged to the rescue with soft shifting (read: longer slipping pre-engagement) transmissions. Of course slipping is not good for any clutch and a wet clutch is so not excluded. So in '96.5, Honda introduced phased clutch engagement. This allowed for partial engagement of your 'to' gear before your 'from' gear was fully disengaged. This allowed for dramatically smoother shifts than previous models. The ugly side to this advance was not to reel its ugly head for a couple of years. In late '97. DTC P0740- torque converter circuit failure- was discovered lurking somewhere in between the super-gizmo-wizardry of the PCM and the technologically advanced tranny.
Now early investigation found internal leaks &/or clogged valves to be the culprits.
OK. We thought.
But the shift quality still wasn't smooth enough. But before I get to what engineer's @ AHM decided to do, let me ask you all a question.
How many of you have ever wondered why Honda has always (not now in the advent of flattering emulation by other marques) had 2 drive selections: D3 and D4?
Hold that thought as we return to Honda's tranny refinery.
Realizing that pressure modulation was the to shift shock reduction and that clutches would only stand for so much abuse, Honda looked to a formerly overlooked resource for addition shock dampening: the torque converter clutch. Formerly only used to positively lock the crank to the input shaft, Honda decided to phase its engagement in further efforts to make the AT's operation transparent. It worked for a while. But while existing problems brewed, a whole new batch was thrown in. 740's were jumping all so acrobatically out of the wood work and the more powerful powertrains fell first but their less endowed siblings were soon to follow suit.
While driving, the softer shifts were aggressively wearing away clutch material sometimes in particles that were trapped in screens and filters other times in smaller ones that made it through these lines of defense. In the former situation, the filters (which by the way, are not serviceable) were clogged. This led to pressure loss, which exacerbated the transition duty of the clutches, affected essentially fuelling the vicious cycle's inferno of destruction. In the latter case, accumulation of deposits could occur in the fine passages of the valve body, in/on valve seats etc. Essentially depositing sh!t where it don't belong. Now add to this the fact that you average commuter drives in D4 at speeds that equate to the threshold of TCC engagement, the mapped criteria of engagement coupled with the advanced partial engagement modes of the TCC you have a recipe for ATF & Clutch stew. That's an artery clogger if I ever saw one! (No pun intended!).
In so much as these tranny failures seemed to come out of the woodwork all at once, it was actually the accumulation of un-addressed undesirable operational consequences that all came to a head.
Now the newer 5-spd transmissions have the ignominy of having a third working geared shaft. Unfortunately, prolonged torture testing for reliability of this set wasn’t long enough and internal lubrication and cooling weren't discovered until many owned vehicles with these ill-fated trannies in them. The fix: add point of correction cooling+lubrication by plumbing ATF to the problem. Hence the latest trans recall in a seemingly endless stream of tranny woes.
I must say one thing at this juncture. Redesign has rid the 5-spd transmissions of their heating problem and as for the earlier models, "Oh-oh, better get MAACO!" ;-)))
Sorry to take up so much of your time but I thought you might want to know.
#28
Pro
Do you have any data supporting your use or Valvoline Maxlife atf?
For you to recommend something, it is more likely to be thought of as a good alternative if there's a base to run off of. Like how long have you run maxlife in your vehicles? What has it improved on versus the oem fluid? Crisper shifting?
What are the downsides if you have experienced any?
For you to recommend something, it is more likely to be thought of as a good alternative if there's a base to run off of. Like how long have you run maxlife in your vehicles? What has it improved on versus the oem fluid? Crisper shifting?
What are the downsides if you have experienced any?
#29
Transmission slipping again 2000 tl
For a while my transmission stop slipping now it's slipping again the car bucks pretty badly from time to time it does not happen every day but when it does I sometimes get the TCS light on is that typical. Looking to sell the car with 148,000 miles I need advice on what steps to take and what the value of the car with this issue might be.
I have a 2000 3.2 TL with 147,000 miles. Located in cold CT. The transmission seems to be slipping when in d5, jerks a bit. Any idea what might cause this.
Also some fluid leaking out if front end not sure if it's tranny or motor oil. Tried some Lucas stop slip in trany and stop leak in oil did not seem to improve after that.
Also some fluid leaking out if front end not sure if it's tranny or motor oil. Tried some Lucas stop slip in trany and stop leak in oil did not seem to improve after that.
#30
Just to give you some perspective...
I got my car with a busted transmission for $500 with only 104k miles on the engine... granted that I knew the seller, I would think that it was reasonably priced considering the fixes it needed (namely the AV6 swap)... Mind you, the car I bought is in tip top shape with new brakes, new tires, new rotors, front suspension and timing belt done back when it had 75k miles... apart from the AV6 swap, the car need nothing else...
in the end, I spent $1275 for both the car and the used transmission I sourced... $200 for the labor and fluids (did most work myself and a buddy), another $30 for the seals... all in all, a little over $1500 for everything...
I got my car with a busted transmission for $500 with only 104k miles on the engine... granted that I knew the seller, I would think that it was reasonably priced considering the fixes it needed (namely the AV6 swap)... Mind you, the car I bought is in tip top shape with new brakes, new tires, new rotors, front suspension and timing belt done back when it had 75k miles... apart from the AV6 swap, the car need nothing else...
in the end, I spent $1275 for both the car and the used transmission I sourced... $200 for the labor and fluids (did most work myself and a buddy), another $30 for the seals... all in all, a little over $1500 for everything...
#31
Pro
Heres my account.
The two TL's I bought both had bad transmissions and I got both for 500 each.
In the end I rebuilt both but when they fail again they are getting the AV6 treatment.
I also had to do a bunch of other work including Tbelt job, full brake job and new tires.
After everything was done each car had about 1500-1800 in it.
The two TL's I bought both had bad transmissions and I got both for 500 each.
In the end I rebuilt both but when they fail again they are getting the AV6 treatment.
I also had to do a bunch of other work including Tbelt job, full brake job and new tires.
After everything was done each car had about 1500-1800 in it.
#32
Temp Fix Transmission slip 2000 TL
Would like to sell my car (2000 TL 149k), trying to at least get temp fix to the transmission slipping problem. What is the best and most economical approach
Probably not going to do this myself. 1, 2, or 3
1. 3x3 drain and refill with ATF DW-1
2. clean solenoids
3. change transmission filter
Thanks
Probably not going to do this myself. 1, 2, or 3
1. 3x3 drain and refill with ATF DW-1
2. clean solenoids
3. change transmission filter
Thanks
^ Skirmich, you are an idiot.
Those trans you presented have absolutely no relevance to the av6. You are delusional if you believe they are.
I didn't say that the av6 won't go a 300,000 miles. What I am saying is, it's too early to say it will given the fact that the 06 av6 trans have not been around that long... 10 years.
10 × 20,000 miles a year comes out to 200,000 total. That is no where near 300,000 miles. That is how I know... idiot.
Here is a relevent example. It may not be conclusive but, at least it's relevant.
"I have an av6 trany in it, which had 75k and I have only driven the car 4-6k in the 2 years since I put the trany in.
according to my mechanic there is a clogged filter in the trans, since I have known him I have seen him do well over 20 Honda/acura trans, from the ody to the cl/tl accord pilot.
he told me to bring it by and he would do a flush and put in a filter kit at no charge, if that doesn't work then we'll see what else is the cause"
Below is the link.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-again-943055/
Those trans you presented have absolutely no relevance to the av6. You are delusional if you believe they are.
I didn't say that the av6 won't go a 300,000 miles. What I am saying is, it's too early to say it will given the fact that the 06 av6 trans have not been around that long... 10 years.
10 × 20,000 miles a year comes out to 200,000 total. That is no where near 300,000 miles. That is how I know... idiot.
Here is a relevent example. It may not be conclusive but, at least it's relevant.
"I have an av6 trany in it, which had 75k and I have only driven the car 4-6k in the 2 years since I put the trany in.
according to my mechanic there is a clogged filter in the trans, since I have known him I have seen him do well over 20 Honda/acura trans, from the ody to the cl/tl accord pilot.
he told me to bring it by and he would do a flush and put in a filter kit at no charge, if that doesn't work then we'll see what else is the cause"
Below is the link.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-again-943055/
#33
To answer your question of how much.... Honestly, if you are trying to get the most out of it, why don't you start comparing prices on KBB, Edmunds and NADA guide... those will give you some perspective on the actual value of this car but will depend on how you rate the condition of yours... now, knowing that your car has an ailing transmission, can you honestly justify asking for XXX amount of money...
If you try the remedies mentioned above, look into spending at least $200 tops for someone to do it...
Quite frankly, if I know that a car has a broken transmission, I have gone crazy if I were to buy it for more than $500... the value of this car is a lot less than the price to have the transmission rebuilt so buying it for more than $500 is pushing it...
even of it is a really high end car... this is just my .02
If you try the remedies mentioned above, look into spending at least $200 tops for someone to do it...
Quite frankly, if I know that a car has a broken transmission, I have gone crazy if I were to buy it for more than $500... the value of this car is a lot less than the price to have the transmission rebuilt so buying it for more than $500 is pushing it...
even of it is a really high end car... this is just my .02
#34
Transmission Slipping 2000 TL
2000 TL 149k Transmission, fluid not changed ever, slow transmission fluid leak, slipping frequently, hoping to sell the car soon - wondering if I do the 3x drain and fill, change filter, and cleaning solenoids will this fix the problem for at least 6 mos or 5,000 miles. What is the probability 10% .. 50%.. 80%..
thanks
thanks
I have a 2000 3.2 TL with 147,000 miles. Located in cold CT. The transmission seems to be slipping when in d5, jerks a bit. Any idea what might cause this.
Also some fluid leaking out if front end not sure if it's tranny or motor oil. Tried some Lucas stop slip in trany and stop leak in oil did not seem to improve after that.
Also some fluid leaking out if front end not sure if it's tranny or motor oil. Tried some Lucas stop slip in trany and stop leak in oil did not seem to improve after that.
#35
2000 TL 149k Transmission, fluid not changed ever, slow transmission fluid leak, slipping frequently, hoping to sell the car soon - wondering if I do the 3x drain and fill, change filter, and cleaning solenoids will this fix the problem for at least 6 mos or 5,000 miles. What is the probability 10% .. 50%.. 80%..
thanks
thanks
#36
A 2000 TL with 149k is scrap with a broken transmission. You could try trading it in with a dealer and hope they don't realize. It seems you want to be a scumbag about it and trick a private seller into buying what they think is a fully functioning car. Chances are no matter what you do the tranny problem won't get better so you'll just learn a hard lesson after spending additional money to no resolve.
Also when the private owner figures out the scam you pulled when the tranny breaks -- make sure your name / number have no association with this thread because if the buyer finds this, well he now has proof to sue you for the transmission repair or book value of the car, which ever is lower.
When I bought my 03 TLS i googled the owners email / phone and quickly found all his posts in acurazine. I knew exactly what I was getting into prior to buying.
Also when the private owner figures out the scam you pulled when the tranny breaks -- make sure your name / number have no association with this thread because if the buyer finds this, well he now has proof to sue you for the transmission repair or book value of the car, which ever is lower.
When I bought my 03 TLS i googled the owners email / phone and quickly found all his posts in acurazine. I knew exactly what I was getting into prior to buying.
Last edited by knice; 05-11-2016 at 01:18 PM.
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