Do I need an official/OEM Acura gas cap? Or is generic Autozone one okay?
A couple weeks ago we bought a '99 Acura TL from a used car dealer. Seemed in good shape, no Check Engine Light when test driving, or for the first half hour of our drive home. Then we stopped for gas, and within 5-10 mins the CEL came on. We pulled over and read that it could be a loose gas cap; since it had JUST come on after fueling up, we hoped/assumed that was it. But 2 weeks later (and a couple fill-ups and full gas cap tightenings), the CEL is still on.
The cap on there is a generic one from Autozone -- I noticed when I bought a NEW one from Autozone and found it to be identical. So no improvement with the new one.
Could that be the problem? Do I need an official/OEM Acura gas cap (which I read is spring-loaded) to get the proper tightness/seal? Or is the Autozone cap fine and the problem may be something else?
Just wondered if it was worth paying $17 + S&H for a "real" Acura gas cap, or to go ahead and make the 2-hour trip to the nearest dealer.
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A: we have several dealers that give discount and ship to you--no drive needed!
see Vendor link at top of pages
B: Is the replacement cap spring loaded like the stock one? so it goes 3 clicks to know its tight? if not,, that would be my first suspect-
who sold you a cap that doesnt work on the car??
thats to make sure its on tight so no vapor loss which triggers that light
Normally its a few days to clear- try reset of the ECU- remove CLOCK fuse from passenger end of dash- for a minute and put back in
Thanks for the reply; I'll have to check out those vendor links.
The car came with an Autozone brand gas cap (not the stock/OEM/Acura one). We fueled up on the way home from the used car dealer, and the CEL came on within minutes. When the CEL wouldn't go off after a couple weeks, I bought a new cap from Autozone -- not knowing/realizing the one on there was already an Autozone replacement. So that's actually the only kind we've had on there since we bought it -- it's never had the OEM/Acura one.
Here's the one that came with it (and that I bought again to replace it):
the spring part is when you tighten it- when it reaches correct torque the spring
allows the cap to skip over a tooth ~or something like that~
it doesnt get any tighter--and I think 3 is just to be certain you heard it click
does your do that?
description is correct but does it do that or just tighten till you think its good?
Well we have a 2008 Civic as well, and the gas cap on that has a definitive, solid "click" when it's tight.
This Autozone one doesn't quite do that, but it does sort of "ratchet" once it's tight, if that makes sense. So not a solid "click", but more of a continuous clicking/ratcheting as you turn it past the tight point. I hope I'm describing it well enough.
Assuming I am, does it sound like that would be adequate, or that it's not the right style and I should grab an OEM/Acura one from one of your online vendors? Thanks!
Thanks for the tips guys. I was actually hoping it WAS the gas cap and that $17 would fix it.
Ah well, I'll take it to get the codes read tomorrow. I didn't realize auto parts stores did that for free... thought I'd have to drive 2 hrs to the nearest dealer and/or pay for it. So hopefully the codes bring news that it's not an expensive fix, as right off the dealer's lot we had to drop $300 on new brakes, rotors, and a shredded A/C belt on an incorrectly-mounted alternator. Can't do many more problems the first 2 weeks of having this car.
Anyway, thanks again! We'll see what they say tomorrow.
ck your state laws- used car dealers have to sell with at least 30% brakes remaining
The stock TL rotors would be warped by now
ck the ac belt tensioner too, they like to wear out the bearing and sounds like growling
V8 engine,,,could affect belt wear
Why was the alt mounted wrong-was it put back wrong during the 105 service/ timing belt water pump?
Congrats on your purchase of a 99. It makes me feel good that someone else still has a 99. LOL. I too have to replace my breaks all the way around. Not cool. Hope its an inexpensive fix as to why the cel is on.
P1457 - EVAP control system leak detected (control canister system)
- Check fuel cap
- Failed vent or purge solenoid
- Failed hose connection or hose
Since I think we've concluded that the replacement Autozone gas cap should be fine -- right? no real need to order the OEM/Acura cap? -- I guess I'll reset the code and see if the CEL stays off or comes back on. Then we can be positive it's not the gas cap and get it in to the dealer or mechanic to check out these other possible issues. Hope it's not too much.
The brakes were alright... not great... probably not 30%. But there was a noticeable shake/rumble in the steering wheel when braking, and the car also pulled to the right. The rotors looked pretty worn so we swapped out all 4 plus the pads. So it wasn't out of complete necessity yet, but it was going to need a brake job soon anyway, and it did make a HUGE difference in making the car feel better and smoother.
We're really happy with it for the most part. Just still discovering new problems in this game of Used Car Roulette we've been playing. I think we're pretty settled on the Acura; just need to get her fixed up.
Well I'm glad you are happy with it. My 99 the girl I got it from pretty much just drove it and that is all. The breaks on mine are worn in the front, shaking steering wheel while breaking. On the left rear it has newer pads with a rotor you can clearly see has been metal to metal at some point and the right rear is about to go anytime. i have a doosey on my hands. Love it though.
nut- you need to perform the egr port and passage cleaning of the intake manifold
its not the valve- its the path the exhaust gasses must go thru get clogged, and engine runs funny
remove intake manifold and TB, use carb cleaner and wire coat hanger to poke them all clear
also service throttle body-`TB` the idle control on its bottem side while its apart
Never hurt to lube throttle cables too- all can be done as one simple 2 hour DIY
The Following User Says Thank You to 01tl4tl For This Useful Post:
Now what if, outside of changing brakes, I happened to know almost nothing about working on cars? How easy of a DIY -- or how much $$$ -- do you think it would be?
I can get it in to the mechanic this week (a good one who has given me fair prices for years). Or if you really think it's a pretty easy DIY, even for a novice with little more than some diagrams and internet printouts, then I'd be apt to give it a try next weekend. I'd love to save the money and don't mind working on it myself; I just don't want to mess anything up under the hood.
Either way, thanks for the direction. I went ahead and reset the CEL today, so if (by some chance) it doesn't turn back on tomorrow, then fantastic; maybe it will have been the gas cap after all. Otherwise, if it does come back on, we'll plan on doing the intake manifold one way or another in the next few days or so.
Well the CEL stayed off for 2 days and looked promising... then came back on yesterday.
I don't think I trust myself messing around with the Intake Manifold (unless it's a super easy job, even for a novice), so looks like I'll probably be taking it over to the mechanic to get the job done. Hopefully this takes care of it for cheap!
So my neighbor and I tried to tackle this... cleaned the EGR passage, throttle body, etc (all successful; there was a lot of gunk we cleaned out)... and had my mechanic fix the broken bolts on the intake manifold yesterday.
After he fixed those I pulled the clock fuse to reset the CEL, but today it's back on again.
Apparently cleaning the EGR passage, properly tightening/sealing the manifold bolts, and getting a new gas cap did not fix my CEL. Despite fuse-clearing it, do I still need to drive it more for it to reset & turn off on its own? Or should it have stayed off?
Otherwise, what am I looking at? Failed vent or purge solenoid...?
It's the rubber hose in the E-2 dotted box, the one that attaches to the #7 air hose Joint. I noticed when taking the air box out to do the intake manifold, that the rubber hose has a tiny hole right about where it bends and connects to that #7 joint.
I don't know enough to know, first of all, if that's a problem... and second, if it is, where to find that replacement hose (where that E-2 assembly is located on the OEM website -- I wouldn't need the whole assembly, just the rubber hose on the right).
If it's a problem that there's a small hole in it where it connects to the #7 on the air flow tube? And where to buy the rubber hose (I see it's part of that E-2 group but am not sure where to find those parts)... Thanks!!
Nope if you search the Manual it will guide you to the main EVAP Canister (Beneath Gas Tank) theres a Small Purge in there that Opens and send the Stream to the Firewall Purge it has a couple of PVCs that could disconect from debris on the Road wier but could happend.
To pin-Point the exact problem (Up-Stream or Down-Stream leak) you will need a Vacuum tester and The Service Manual
Make Acura fix it for You. In any case check the Firewall purge valve (Above Master Cylinder) if it Ticks it needs to be replaced (The one 01tl Mentioned).
2G Acura TL-S (WDP)
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