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Okay so I am in the US Navy and was stationed in San Diego. I transferred from San Diego to Newport, RI on April 9th. Well on April 7th this stupid woman hit the right side of my car from the passenger side door all the way back to my bumper, to include my back right rim. I didn't have the time to have the body work done in CA so I talked to my insurance and they let me drive cross country first(after i made sure mechanically the car was okay). I had to go to school in Va for a few weeks first so I drove to VA and had the body work done at a HONDA dealership bodyshop there. My friend picked up my car as I flew home for a week for vacation(Portland, Oregon. I know a lot of traveling ). She told me that my battery was dead at the autobody shop and needed to be jumped. I thought that was odd as I JUST bought the battery in January and typically with the TL I have it takes about a month to drain the battery(I know it can happen sooner but I watched the lady drive my car up to show me the body work that was done not 4 days earlier....) Anyways, I fly back into VA and pick up my car and the battery is dead again, my friend had jumped it and charged it for me the night before. So I drove from VA to RI(10 hour drive) and checked into my command and all that. I drove for a two or three days with no problem. Then suddenly my battery was dead again. I called AAA they came out and jumped and tested my battery and said the battery was dead. I thought that was odd considering I bought it in January. Either way I got a new battery from AAA and I was good for another 2 days. It was dead again, this time I was getting mad, had the battery, and the alternator checked. Battery was good, alternator was outputting 13V. I started looking on here and noticed the HFL being a prime culpirit for my yr, so I removed the unit and went a couple more days then dead again. This time I took the TL into Autozone and had THEM check my electrical system. Alternator and battery checked out. Car off I had a 1.5 amp battery drain. Which is VERY high... So I started looking around the car, checked fuses, noted that my front left fog light and all my left running lights were out. Stereo wouldn't save the radio stations I programmed(even when the battery was charged). So I FINALLY broke down and took my car to a Honda dealership here in Newport(the nearest Acura dealers is about 45 minutes away). They checked the A/C drain tubed and PCM first(which I read was a big culpirit, both are good. They tell me I have about 10-15 body codes showing up and the switches are never shutting off. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN???? I have the "Body codes" at home(Im at work right now) and will post and search for them later. But either way, what the Honda dealership is suggesting is that the body shop might have pinched the wiring or something when doing the work... I am I guess taking my car to an Acura dealership this weekend and having them check it out as the Honda dealership here said they couldnt troubleshoot any further. SORRY FOR THE LONG RANT but I figured it was necessary....
i thought you said, you could research them on your own!?!??!
I looked up the B1150 and it came back as ECU/PSM errors.
this means something is wrong with the computers/electrical system.
83-1 ECM/PCM relation failure. 86-1 can relation failure; B1005 Micu lost comm, B1150 comm. Error bus off, B1155 gauge control module lost comm; The B can system has serious communication problems.
you might want to check out the A/C drain to see if its not clogged.
we've had reports on the A/C drain clogging, and dripping water on to the PCM/ECU, which then causes ECU failure then a coil pack to go bad.
You probably have a bad HFL unit draining the battery and the resulting codes are random triggered by the low battery. Just unplug the HFL and see if it holds a charge over night. Feel the overhead console right where it meets the windshield and see if it's warm. Keep in mind once a battery is drained completely dead, especially multiple times, it will probably never be 100% again.
HFL was the first thing I suspected and it was unplugged right away, SUPPOSEDLY the Honda dealership checked the PCM and it checked out okay. They also checked the drain pipes and they were clear. As for the research, they had said all these "B" Codes were "Body Codes" this is why I was asked WHAT a body code was.
Really hate Trolling answers but I guess they cannot be avoided. Thanks for the help guys.
I have one of those codes the OP was asking about. I have 07/08 mirrors but I bought them new. And I have no problems with them. And they rotate up and down and in and out I THINK. So, I don't know why the codes. And I have no idea why there would be a sensor to detect the steering wheel tilt.. I guess angle for the airbag or something? Maybe if they could control how hard the airbag popped, then maybe it would matter some. But the airbags have only a few wires like on or off.. or pop or not. I didn't think there was any control on how fast it pops or how fast it could blow, so not sure why the angle of the SW matters. Anyway... I am more interested in the B1150 and B1056. Maybe someday when I have time I can play with it.
I didn't think the service manual has those "step by step" troubleshooting instructions. I have the HELM book already.. but never seen the DTC troubleshooting steps
I didn't think the service manual has those "step by step" troubleshooting instructions. I have the HELM book already.. but never seen the DTC troubleshooting steps
They'll refer to other pages in the manual for testing (ie: page 22-120 and 22-134)
07-09-2012, 06:28 AM
