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holy hell that is carnage.
suddenly my broken pistons dont seem so bad
I totally just realized there was son AND dad in this thread.
Yeah, the fella that owned the TL was pretty sure he could beat my prior record of 54 bottles of nitrous on a stock motor using 200hp+ shots. He soon failed after only three bottles at 150hp(ish) shots. Gotta love that aluminum cylinder wall that's all gouged to shit.
Well we have been busy doing side work trying to pay for all of these parts,
we have done a 1999 civic SI oil pump, timing belt, tune up, valve adjust, oil pan, a bunch of seals, thermostat -2006 oddy timing belt, valve adjust,tune up,transmission service ,lof,rear brakes,filters - 2005 TL all engine and transmission mounts, controll arm bushings,brakes and rotors,tires
We now have all of the parts paid for and ordered so just waiting for the ups guy to drop off some parts and we will be putting it back together
Well we have been busy doing side work trying to pay for all of these parts,
we have done a 1999 civic SI oil pump, timing belt, tune up, valve adjust, oil pan, a bunch of seals, thermostat -2006 oddy timing belt, valve adjust,tune up,transmission service ,lof,rear brakes,filters - 2005 TL all engine and transmission mounts, controll arm bushings,brakes and rotors,tires
We now have all of the parts paid for and ordered so just waiting for the ups guy to drop off some parts and we will be putting it back together
Got the rods in today.
Just waiting on 3 pistons, valves, and something to plug up the oil squirt-er holes with and ill be ready for the re-build. Here's some pics of the rods and the pistons i do have.
Kind if a lot of money to be running almost stock compression on a knock constrained engine. I understand the AT won't hold too much power but, seems to be cutting yourself off at the knees to keep the compression so high.
Kind if a lot of money to be running almost stock compression on a knock constrained engine. I understand the AT won't hold too much power but, seems to be cutting yourself off at the knees to keep the compression so high.
It's about 10.5 compression, nobody does low compression anymore that's old school thinking, why give up all of the pre turbo power to just turn up the boost and make the same power with the same detonation threshold at a sertan power level to make 500 hp it takes a given clynder pressure no matter how you get it it will have a point of knock, yeah this could start a long debate but why are the best tuners around all going high compression builds for the street ?
It's about 10.5 compression, nobody does low compression anymore that's old school thinking, why give up all of the pre turbo power to just turn up the boost and make the same power with the same detonation threshold at a sertan power level to make 500 hp it takes a given clynder pressure no matter how you get it it will have a point of knock, yeah this could start a long debate but why are the best tuners around all going high compression builds for the street ?
I have seen threads like Tony the tigers build but, it seemed like most of what he was saying was the complete opposite of what I saw with all turbo builds. He also seemed to make it a point of using parts that no one was able to make work for the 3G TL. So I dismissed it as someone with technical automotive knowledge making stuff up to get attention. I don't enough about turbo engines to say either way, just so much sounded off. I went low comp for my build because that was all have seen for turbo builds.
I ran my car for 85k+ miles boosted on the stock engine, almost 60k with the turbo with no failures but, was never able to get the power I wanted. I'm not a mechanic or a tuner and I daily drove my car for most of the miles, so i was running a more conservative tune. It just seemed like so much timing had to be pulled and the car had to run so rich to run that high comp setup. The car was slightly more responsive in high comp trim but, the amount of boost and the speed at which it makes boost is night and day with the new engine. The low comp engine makes power so effortlessly, where the stock engine seemed to need to be push harder to make power.
I agree with Hi-Speed with regards to the compression ratio for the turbo. One thing to consider is that within the past 30 years, even 9.5:1 is HIGH for a forced induction engine. Look back at the terrible domestics of the 70s - they were running 8:1 N/A. Even in the 90s the 1st gen 4G63 from the Eclipse was at 7.8:1 - talk about a turd off boost.
I think the high compression high horsepower build is relatively few and far between just because of the need for higher octane gas. However, E85 solves a LOT of that, almost too well.
I know Matt had said in a previous thread that a lower CR will spool a turbo faster - I'm inclined to believe that, but it is counter to what intuition would suggest.
We may start to see more high CR turbo builds just with the advent of DI as well. The new GM LT4 has a surprisingly high 10:1 CR, but it is Direct injected as well. The prior LS9 is 9:1.
Either way you go, I think it is good to see different methods and different paths. If everyone did exactly the same thing, it wouldn't be any fun. I really wish the supercharger method was better because I really kind of like the roots whine, but damn the CT is a joke. If I could find one of Paul's 90s fairly cheap, I'd try that for fun. 400whp from a supercharged setup would be plenty for me.
Today I's my 50th birthday, do you think I will ever grow out of my 16 year old car crazy brain ? HELL NO just entering faze 2 passing it on to my son LOL
happy birthday dude. I can only hope I'm still kickin that hard around cars at 50 like you. At 31 I've got plenty of people asking me if I'll ever grow out of my love of cars. You give me hope that I can carry this great disease with me for many years to come
happy birthday dude. I can only hope I'm still kickin that hard around cars at 50 like you. At 31 I've got plenty of people asking me if I'll ever grow out of my love of cars. You give me hope that I can carry this great disease with me for many years to come
if you havnt grown out of it yet, your probably a lifer.
KN_TL i had no idea your in my dads age group a always thought you would be younger.
Just finished up getting the valves ready to install. Got the new pistons put in. Quit my second job so I now have time on the weekend to get shit done.
when I took the pasanger side wheel of I noticed my control arm bushings were torn though.
been thinking of getting these https://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline...ll-models.html any one try them out yet?
Just finished up getting the valves ready to install. Got the new pistons put in. Quit my second job so I now have time on the weekend to get shit done.
when I took the pasanger side wheel of I noticed my control arm bushings were torn though.
been thinking of getting these https://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline...ll-models.html any one try them out yet?
What kind of issues would you have with torn control arm bushings?
One thing I've heard is that the compliance busings in general - it can cause weird road tracking, and even affect alignment. It's lore, but I've heard that people with really bad torn compliance bushings have pulled onto a rack, gotten aligned, then rolled off and back on and the alignment was out.
One thing I've heard is that the compliance busings in general - it can cause weird road tracking, and even affect alignment. It's lore, but I've heard that people with really bad torn compliance bushings have pulled onto a rack, gotten aligned, then rolled off and back on and the alignment was out.
that is bad. Do you know if they were complely torn through? Im probably about 20-30 percent torn through (edit:just looked at yhem and not quite 20 percent). But didnt notice anything wierd with the handleing when it was still running
hopefully the bearings will be more reliable than that. Ive heard about Hondas in general having issues with the bushings. So I figured if we have a better option to go for it
Last edited by UTAH Type-S; 04-01-2015 at 06:49 PM.
that is bad. Do you know if they were complely torn through? Im probably about 20-30 percent torn through (edit:just looked at yhem and not quite 20 percent). But didnt notice anything wierd with the handleing when it was still running
hopefully the bearings will be more reliable than that. Ive heard about Hondas in general having issues with the bushings. So I figured if we have a better option to go for it
Don't know if they were torn completely through but I don't think they were. Also, you can only take it for what it's worth as it was IHC that said the toe would change every time you pulled onto the rack and that you can't get an alignment while they are torn. There may have been some exaggeration there, but I dunno.
When the bushings are torn enough or broken on the dyno you can see the wheels move forward under acceleration really bad like 3 inches, this would make the toe change a ton and when braking they move back in the wheel well, this kills tires cupping and wearing the inside super fast, here is a video of my car with good bushings and look how much the wheel moves
02-27-2015, 09:24 PM
