When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just go buy spacers from eibach, h&r, or what i went with, garageline.
I forget the acura bore size off the top of my head butbi wouldnt even mess with that cause i found the wrong way assuming even acura and honda use the same size can be very wrong.
Just search eibach h&r or garageline for ilx spacers in 25mm. I know fact garageline has them for a good price. I recently resold 20mm spacers.
All the Eibach, H&R Spacers etc.. are advertised as 2013 - 2015.
That's why I'm wondering if 2016 has a different Bore Size.
My assumption would be the hub on the 2015 ILX is indentical to the 2016. But I also assumed my 1994 integra had the same bore size as a 2004 Civic coupe and that was very wrong.
I honestly doubt anyone with a 2016 has measured. I honestly doubt any of them know how. I wouldnt even know off the top of my head what to measure for you. But if anyone does or can it would be Thmanx or Nickb257. Nickb is an acura tech so Id see if he could measure the bore size while on the job. Or anyone with aftermarket wheels should be able to help.
[QUOTE=Thmanx;15457868]Just because CBP ILX's look so damn good...and because @Chan_Mike picked one up only a few weeks before we did. I though I'd share some of the build work I've done on mine.
Including a suite of OEM bits + prototype intake work.
First day from the dealership
Did a full inspection at the shop to see all the new bits up close.
Underbody features a nearly complete under belly panel. To improve air flow, efficient, reduce drag, etc... Lots of aluminum and light weight materials.
And of course, we all love JewelEye LEDs
Decided to go the PnP Philips route for the fogs, a very viable alternative to the ~$650 LED modules you can buy from the dealership. They are a perfect color match to the headlights, 12year life span, = to halogen brightness with reduced glare. They are definitely worth the ~$160-180 price.
The OEM fog reflector has two beam components:
1) a center area which is light reflected from the back of the housing (provides a slightly wider beam then the headlights-but lower and fills in the dark areas.
2) a very wide cut of light that shines light beyond the driver side mirror, this light is reflected from the -side- of the foglight housing and provides very wide coverage for street gutters/sidewalks/ditches
You can see the main fog beam here
and when parked closer, you can see the super-wide cut to the sides
Also picked up some MotoT10's for the license plate + Philips 921's for the reverse, just to keep color consistent.
Next on the build, came the OEM accessories. Side moldings, F/R Aero, Trunk trey-hooks, illuminated side sills, etc...
The Aero bits are very aggressive, might be too much for some but i feel it gives the ILX a serious edge that this car/brand needed.
Next on the project was Intake Design.
Thanks to its new EarthDreams K24V7, no parts are current available for intakes... so I got creative and decided to make one.
The concept was simple once I was able to extrapolate some design schematics from Acuras estore (still can't find a FSM yet...)
There was lots of space to work with behind the bumper, Just needed to figure out how to remove the factory resonator-snorkel assembly, and adapt a ram-air style funnel to the lower air dam/intake.
After removing the factory setup as a reference, I was able to mock up a simple prototype using composite tubing segments, silicone adapters, and a 'headlight' funnel.
The original prototype was held together with nothing more then duct-tape and zip-ties to act as a proof of concept.
Using my OBD2 scan tool, i was able to document a 50% reduction in IAT's thanks to the design, especially while at constant cruising speed (often where IAT's rise the most since little air enters the intake system). Overall IAT's average 5°F above ambient.
Here is the improved "Beta-Kit" version with full 3.5" Silicone connections and improved fitment/mounting.
No CEL's or codes, MAF readings were well within OEM spec, there will be an eventual dyno comparison on this system.
Straight direct feed for a Ram-Air boost. Both for power, and for efficiency.
Also sounds a little louder (not by much, anyone w/ other "CT-IceBox" style intakes know what i mean.
The last bit added so far was a set of 30mm Eibach ProSpacers.
I felt the wheels were far too tucked-in. The added space would improve look as well as handling since the spacers would bump the over all wheel track by almost 2.5" Its definitely noticeable from the drivers seat thanks to reduced body-roll.
And to wrap up the build (so far) the beauty shots
Dear Thmanx
Awesome car you have and i like type of work you have done. I have 2016 ilx A spec. that been said i want to know what to replace in order to stiffen the car, now when i hit a hard brake, the car kinda dives in !! i hate this. so my question to you is do i need to replace springs ! and anti roll bars ? or shock absorbs?
height is not my concern as long as the car doesnt dive in like a camry. dont get me wrong im not racing or like the lowered cars, its just a stiff car for daily driving.
thanks
To reduce nose dive you'd have to replace either the springs (stiffer springs would reduce spring travel on compression) or replace the shocks with adjustable dampening (to harden the compression and rebound)
Options for the ILX are a bit limited as of now, through from what I heard the 2014-15 9th gen civics feature the same suspension geometry as the '16 ILXs.
You should be able to use any aftermarket suspension components for the later model civic.
If you want to keep the height the same. A set of shocks should work, or perhaps a subtle 1" drop with adaptive/adjustable shocks as well. That way it'll firm things up with out the track feel of a dedicated race Coilover system.
As for roll bars, I love em. They will improve road handling and feel in a turn with out compromising daily bump drivability. Eibach is a great way to go.
Nope, thats why there is an air filter in the box.
Every oil change or so I open the box up and vacuum up the random bugs, sand, etc that get in there. I suppose you could argue your filter could get dirty faster... but at regular changing intervals (15,000mi?) it wouldn't become an issue.
1.) What kind of tubing did you use for the intake/where did you buy it?
2.) Thinking out loud it seems unnecessary for the "headlight funnel" you have on the end of the intake. The circular part is directly behind in the fog housing so it won't be deprived of any exposed surface area. Was there reasoning behind the funnel that I'm overlooking?
2.) Thinking out loud it seems unnecessary for the "headlight funnel" you have on the end of the intake. The circular part is directly behind in the fog housing so it won't be deprived of any exposed surface area. Was there reasoning behind the funnel that I'm overlooking?
Finally got around to putting in that front Eibach sway today. Takes a lift, experience, and plenty of tools (some tight clearances in areas, so gear wrenches are your friend) but now it's in and wow what a difference.
The bar has 2 mounting positions for the end links to offer a softer and stiffer setting. I went with the stiffer of the two and the change in wheel turn in feel and response is night and day. Roll is drastly reduced and the front nose simply darts in the direction your aiming.
All without effecting bump and ride quality one bit. Seriously folks, get the 2013-14 ILX eibach from away kit and install it on your car '16, you simply won't regret it.
My guess is different but they do have a 2016 ilx led fog. Pretty expensive. It fits the previous ilx as well i believe.
Yea that was what I was looking at. There is no specific part for the ILX, but the TLX has one. Might do some digging and see how much I can get them with a friends discount. They also apparently have back up sensors now that they did not have before as an accessory. I haven't visited Acura's site in a while since I bought my ILX so I might be wrong about that.
Hmm... the fog housings themselves might, let me check size.
Most fogs now a days are using standardize diameters and mounting locations. So if the part number for the OEM halogen fogs are the same on both models, They probably are... checking...
I might have gone a bit too in depth with this, but it was interesting to compare schematics and part numbers over the entire range of Acura vehicles... anyway, here ya go:
Complete with left and right side templates to insure proper placement.
They did have a 'part number' if you can call it that. But it doesn't conform to any Acura/Honda scheme that I'm aware of.
But I always knew they had to exist, insurance approved repair shops have to have access to bits like this (decals, emission labels, warning tags) in the event of a crash that requires replacement of a damaged fender, trunk, or hood.
I'll have better photos over the weekend end when it's washed and sunny, but I couldn't wait to slap these bits on once I got home.
Complete with left and right side templates to insure proper placement.
They did have a 'part number' if you can call it that. But it doesn't conform to any Acura/Honda scheme that I'm aware of.
But I always knew they had to exist, insurance approved repair shops have to have access to bits like this (decals, emission labels, warning tags) in the event of a crash that requires replacement of a damaged fender, trunk, or hood.
I'll have better photos over the weekend end when it's washed and sunny, but I couldn't wait to slap these bits on once I got home.
Where did you get these badges from? I actually was looking for a way to get a set for my A-Spec.
Looks good even at night. quick question, have you ever adjusted the headlights ? if yes how
thanks
There are some screws you can access from the back of the housing. An up-down and Left-Right adjuster. I saw it while I was noodling around in the Honda technet service website. I don't want to pay another $10 to access it again, but I recall it needed nothing more then a basic and long philips screw driver
==========
Originally Posted by SpraykwoN
Where did you get these badges from? I actually was looking for a way to get a set for my A-Spec.
Picked them up from a canadian eBay seller who has some other badges for sale too. Delivery took about 10 days from day of purchase from Ontario to Southern California
can we install the kit eibach kit ourselves or need shop and alignment. whats your thoughts about it.
thanks
Installing the rear is pretty easy, just need to jack up the rear of the car and support it with some jack stands. Simple hand tools, allan key, and the like can do the work. Takes a little maneuvering of the bar to remove/reinstall it, but its not bad. 2hrs tops.
Front requires more care, partial removal of the subframe and gotta be careful around the electronic P/S rack and clearance for some of the bolts can be tight. Having access to various types of wrenches, gear wrenches, or swivel sockets are highly recommended. Best to go to a shop for that with a lift and experience with installing sway bars on similar vehicles (2006-2015 civics for example)
There are some screws you can access from the back of the housing. An up-down and Left-Right adjuster. I saw it while I was noodling around in the Honda technet service website. I don't want to pay another $10 to access it again, but I recall it needed nothing more then a basic and long philips screw driver
==========
Picked them up from a canadian eBay seller who has some other badges for sale too. Delivery took about 10 days from day of purchase from Ontario to Southern California
Installing the rear is pretty easy, just need to jack up the rear of the car and support it with some jack stands. Simple hand tools, allan key, and the like can do the work. Takes a little maneuvering of the bar to remove/reinstall it, but its not bad. 2hrs tops.
Front requires more care, partial removal of the subframe and gotta be careful around the electronic P/S rack and clearance for some of the bolts can be tight. Having access to various types of wrenches, gear wrenches, or swivel sockets are highly recommended. Best to go to a shop for that with a lift and experience with installing sway bars on similar vehicles (2006-2015 civics for example)
Thanks man. I was able to get one of his last two sets he had for sale, and he worked with me on the price. Looking forward to getting them.
Btw, in Canada, there was no A-Spec badge on the trunk lid correct? Only the front fenders?
Yup CU2 TSX has a Special Edition model in the states; the Canadian equivalent is A-Spec, which has the emblems on the front fenders. Car looks great! If only the front sway fit my TSX....
I guess thats why Canada still has em. They are still in inventory.
For what ever reason Acura of America discontinued that badge design back in the mid 2000's I believe. Last Aspec model was one of the TLs or TSXs but I forget which one.
Since it was an 'accessory' they stop manufacturing them 10 years after the model year ends, so they became very rare by 2014 or so. Any left now are in private collections or dealer stock, not in local Acura Warehouses.
I guess thats why Canada still has em. They are still in inventory.
For what ever reason Acura of America discontinued that badge design back in the mid 2000's I believe. Last Aspec model was one of the TLs or TSXs but I forget which one.
Since it was an 'accessory' they stop manufacturing them 10 years after the model year ends, so they became very rare by 2014 or so. Any left now are in private collections or dealer stock, not in local Acura Warehouses.
Yeah hence the BM having inflated prices for ASpec badges . To get one from the stealership in Canada, you actually need to have proof that you own an ASpec model Acura apparently. They won't just sell them to anyone haha
[QUOTE=Thmanx;15630701]Finally got around to putting in that front Eibach sway today. Takes a lift, experience, and plenty of tools (some tight clearances in areas, so gear wrenches are your friend) but now it's in and wow what a difference.
The bar has 2 mounting positions for the end links to offer a softer and stiffer setting. I went with the stiffer of the two and the change in wheel turn in feel and response is night and day. Roll is drastly reduced and the front nose simply darts in the direction your aiming.
All without effecting bump and ride quality one bit. Seriously folks, get the 2013-14 ILX eibach from away kit and install it on your car '16, you simply won't regret it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Thmanx, I like your work and of course your car. quick question regarding the roll bars, so I got the eibach bars do you think i can install them myself or need alignment shop? in the past i replaced my bimmer roll bars but never worked on ACURA before so what do you think ?
thanks in advance.
HI Thmanx,
following your lead i have installed the Eibach anti roll kit with 25mm spacers and definitely the difference is night and day. The rear one i went with stiff setting but my question to you which is the stiff setting for front. there are 2 holes one towards the bumper and towards the rear of the car. which one is the stiff?
I looked the picture you posted for the rear and i see you went with the soft?
i have shared my experience for installing the front sway bar for 2016. pictures managed to attach them to a document.
I threw both the front and rear bars at their stiffer of the two settings. I believe the front bar used the holes closer to the front of the bumper.
the documentation said something like the soft setting was 153% stiffer then OEM, and the other was like 205% or something.
I wanted the biggest change so i went with that. I was a little afraid at first that having the front 'too stiff' would make the car understeer more, but actually it leveled the car out better and made the steering response through the wheel amazingly better.
They say to be careful in the rain because it could cause issues if you were to corner hard and hit a wet or icy spot you could understeer wide, but here in SoCal it really isn't an issue. Just drive with care when ever weather is not ideal (which you should be doing anyway frankly)
Thmanx,
The rear setting you have posted a picture which you used the outter hole. is this the stiff or the soft ?
and for front: if i want stiff for the front should i use the hole closer to the bumper?
sorry to bother you but i'm confused.
thank you
09-03-2015, 04:50 PM
. To get one from the stealership in Canada, you actually need to have proof that you own an ASpec model Acura apparently. They won't just sell them to anyone haha
