Question and Answer Thread
08-15-2009, 01:17 AM
#201
Da HoNu
if $250 is with alignment then that sounds good to me..because i've been going to my tech for awhile now, anytime i need to adjust my height and get an alignment (x3) i get it for about $200.
08-16-2009, 03:14 PM
#203
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So my abs light keeps coming on, only when i start pulling forward which means it's a WSS. Does anyone know if an obd2 scanner can pull the WSS code and tell me which one?
08-16-2009, 05:59 PM
#204
Three Wheelin'
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hey um my abs has been on since i pu the 98 cluster in u guys think the reason its on is because its a 3.0 98 cluster or does that not have any effect on it?
08-16-2009, 10:02 PM
#206
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:shakehead
08-16-2009, 10:52 PM
#209
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ok i thought i knew, but i guess i dont? 
the higher the offset = further the wheel sticks out from the hub (and eventually past the fender?) right?
but heres whats confusing me, if you get a 17x7 with a 42 offset, and a 17x8 with a 42 offset, the 8 will stick out further correct? how do you compensate for doing that? for each inch of tire width, subtract its equivalent in MM from the offset mm? so 1 inch = 25.4 mm
that means that to have the same appearance, with a 17x8 as a 17x7, youd have to run a 17x8 with a 17mm offset? along the same lines as this theory, if you go to a 17x9.. then your technically at a -8 offset, does such a thing exist?
the higher the offset = further the wheel sticks out from the hub (and eventually past the fender?) right?
but heres whats confusing me, if you get a 17x7 with a 42 offset, and a 17x8 with a 42 offset, the 8 will stick out further correct? how do you compensate for doing that? for each inch of tire width, subtract its equivalent in MM from the offset mm? so 1 inch = 25.4 mm
that means that to have the same appearance, with a 17x8 as a 17x7, youd have to run a 17x8 with a 17mm offset? along the same lines as this theory, if you go to a 17x9.. then your technically at a -8 offset, does such a thing exist?
08-16-2009, 11:10 PM
#210
CL in lawnmower status
ok i thought i knew, but i guess i dont?
the higher the offset = further the wheel sticks out from the hub (and eventually past the fender?) right?
but heres whats confusing me, if you get a 17x7 with a 42 offset, and a 17x8 with a 42 offset, the 8 will stick out further correct? how do you compensate for doing that? for each inch of tire width, subtract its equivalent in MM from the offset mm? so 1 inch = 25.4 mm
that means that to have the same appearance, with a 17x8 as a 17x7, youd have to run a 17x8 with a 17mm offset? along the same lines as this theory, if you go to a 17x9.. then your technically at a -8 offset, does such a thing exist?
the higher the offset = further the wheel sticks out from the hub (and eventually past the fender?) right?
but heres whats confusing me, if you get a 17x7 with a 42 offset, and a 17x8 with a 42 offset, the 8 will stick out further correct? how do you compensate for doing that? for each inch of tire width, subtract its equivalent in MM from the offset mm? so 1 inch = 25.4 mm
that means that to have the same appearance, with a 17x8 as a 17x7, youd have to run a 17x8 with a 17mm offset? along the same lines as this theory, if you go to a 17x9.. then your technically at a -8 offset, does such a thing exist?
first of all, if you mean the same appearance as how far the outer edge of the wheel will stick out towards the fender or quarter panel, then you have it backwards
if you want a 17x8 to be at the same measurement from the hub to the outer edge of the rim as a 17x7 +42 you'd have to add to the offset, not subtract
second portion where you got it a little mixed up
think of adding width, as adding it on both sides of the wheel
so if comparing a 17x7 +42 and a 17x8 +42 the 8 inch wide wheel will stick out 12.7mm(1/2 inch) more than the 7 inch wide on both sides
so to achieve the same measurement from the hub to the outer edge of the rim, the 17x8 would have to be 17x8 +55, it would be .3mm out further, but that's nothing really
and yes, there are many different offsets for wheels, especially when it comes to 3 piece wheels, although looking at most of the new cheaper brands you may never see some of these offsets
i've seen anywhere from a -70 offset, to a high 50's i believe
here's a pic to help
08-17-2009, 12:16 AM
#211
Drifting
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ah excellent, i understood more then i thought i did.. but didnt explain it well. the picture helped lol i was thinking of it in opposite terms, didnt think of the half thing either.
thanks mitch
thanks mitch
Maybe someday that I venture out to buy some wheels I'll understand.
08-17-2009, 11:06 PM
#214
CL in lawnmower status
if anyone else still has questions about the offset talk i can try and explain in PM's or whatever
just so we don't clutter this thread with the same type of questions
08-18-2009, 12:34 AM
#215
Drifting
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ok ive got a question about spacers.. gnate and i were taling earlier and he brought up a good point. if we were to employ the use of spacers, would we need longer lug bolts?
08-18-2009, 01:11 PM
#216
i like acura
not longer lug bolts. i dont quite know what your staying. you'll need longer studs pressed in if you space more than 7mm. and as far as lug nugs go, your probably better off with some open end tuner style lugs
08-18-2009, 01:44 PM
#217
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you will need extended studs, and open ended lugs
08-18-2009, 02:52 PM
#220
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08-18-2009, 02:58 PM
#221
Question: Would you rather me start another thread when i'm too lazy too search? :gheyfight
jk. But this thread is nice for that reason.
It's great, it saves clutter and allows n00bs to ask questions without posting a million new intake threads too!
jk. But this thread is nice for that reason.
It's great, it saves clutter and allows n00bs to ask questions without posting a million new intake threads too!
08-18-2009, 03:17 PM
#222
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no one searches anyway, was just making a joke 
But I would rather you searched
But I would rather you searched
08-18-2009, 05:44 PM
#224
Drifting
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yeah, lug bolts, studs, same difference hahaha.. ok so need it if you space more then 7mm? psht, im looking to space 3/8th easy so that answers that question.. how difficult could it be to swap out the studs?
08-22-2009, 11:10 PM
#227
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Depends on which part of the trunk, gets narrower by the shock towers and wider by the tail lights
08-22-2009, 11:25 PM
#228
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i've searched but i just want to be sure here, will an F22 5 speed tranny go fine with an F23? mines auto right now but it's going out the door...again, and i can get the 5 speed from an accord parts and installed for cheaper than a rebuild, would that work or will certain parts need to be from an f23?
08-23-2009, 01:53 PM
#229
Drifting
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i've searched but i just want to be sure here, will an F22 5 speed tranny go fine with an F23? mines auto right now but it's going out the door...again, and i can get the 5 speed from an accord parts and installed for cheaper than a rebuild, would that work or will certain parts need to be from an f23?
it will bolt directly up, youll just have to get all the necessary parts for the auto/manual swap as well. and of course, whether or not you chose to keep your auto cluster.
08-23-2009, 02:03 PM
#230
Drifting
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ok now im kind of confused.. i was just chekcing out the bisimoto website looking at cam shafts.. it says you can send yours in to have it reground/ hard welded, or purchase a core to do the same. the core costs 150$ and is honda OEM.. but does that include the price of the grind? or is that simplyfor the core? theres also no specs listed for the service performed if i send it in.
08-23-2009, 02:42 PM
#231
Low and Slow
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement spring that goes behind the front corner lens housing? It's the spring that keeps it from popping out. The spring came off of my drivers side corner and now the housing keeps falling out when I drive around.
08-23-2009, 04:39 PM
#234
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ok now im kind of confused.. i was just chekcing out the bisimoto website looking at cam shafts.. it says you can send yours in to have it reground/ hard welded, or purchase a core to do the same. the core costs 150$ and is honda OEM.. but does that include the price of the grind? or is that simplyfor the core? theres also no specs listed for the service performed if i send it in.
08-23-2009, 04:53 PM
#235
Low and Slow
Yeah, that spring has a screw hole bent into it, I'd just go to the dealer and get one, I got a new set from www.acuraautomotiveparts.org but you have to order so much for them to ship it, like $30
!!
08-24-2009, 12:40 AM
#239
Low and Slow
08-24-2009, 11:29 PM
#240
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I have some noob questions here.
The NOOB buide says CAI for the 1g 3.0 CL are from the 1998 Accord 3.0.
So if I purchase say the AEM V2 cold air intake system for the 98 accord 3.0 I will not have to do any customization or bending or anything correct?
And another noob question once i attach the CAI to the engine I still keep the stock air filter set up correct? Im just making sure the CAI is a supplement to the stock air filter system and not a replacement?
Thanks
The NOOB buide says CAI for the 1g 3.0 CL are from the 1998 Accord 3.0.
So if I purchase say the AEM V2 cold air intake system for the 98 accord 3.0 I will not have to do any customization or bending or anything correct?
And another noob question once i attach the CAI to the engine I still keep the stock air filter set up correct? Im just making sure the CAI is a supplement to the stock air filter system and not a replacement?
Thanks