zeta

iTrader: (1)

After installing your header system, what would you do differently, if you had to do it again, to make the process easier/more efficient??

For example:
Tools
disassembly of stock system
installation of header brand purchased, etc.

I have a pending order from C-C-C.net for a set of 6-speed headers and was looking for tips on an efficent DIY installation.

By the way, rep points to the folks over at C-C-C.net for their great customer service!

Thanks!

rbf351

i found out that taking the rear header though the top is 100 times easier than going from under the car

remove the strut bar and it just slides out, if u go throught the bottom u have very very little room

allmotor_2000

3/4" #12 deep socket (thin-wall)
3/4" swivel
3/4" Ratchet
1/4" #12 deep socket (thin-wall) for the back
1/4" swivel
1/4" 3" extension
#12 wrench with raised head (the wrench looks like a 'Z' shape) - used on the left-most header bolt that's near the alternator - prevents having to remove the alternator
1/2" #17 socket
1/2" swivel
1/2" 1-foot extension
BIG 1/2" ratchet
#14 wrench
1/2" #14 socket
#22 wrench (for O2 sensor)
Needle-nose pliers

Liquid Wrench

Good luck!

Take the rear header from UNDER the car... its more work to remove the strut-bar etc.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

rbf351,
Thanks, I was eyeballing the engine area earlier trying to visualize a plan of attack on this installation. I've read all of the various threads and DIY's posted by other members and I think this project will be very doable for me. Removing the strut bar, as you mentioned, is pretty straight forward to unbolt and it sure would clear alot of space to manuver in from the top. I plan on placing the front of the car on jackstands with double redundency for safety. I would like to keep the time I have to spend under the car to a minimum.

I'm set up with an air rachet so that should help speed up the process. Did you find that you needed long extentions or the flexible socket joints to get at the bolts for the torqueing process??

rbf351

the strut bar is all of 8 bolts(9 if you count the fuse box bolt) and takes about 5 minutes to remove and saves your hands from getting scratched

zeta

iTrader: (1)

allmotor_2000,
That list is just what the doctor ordered, much appreciated!

Thanks.

rezurex

and make sure not to drop the o2 sensor or get anything on it.

a mistake i made when i installed mine

ChadT

If you're putting these on a 6-speed you'll definitely want to put the rear one in from the bottom. It's a little tricky to get it to drop in around the mount. Just drop it in real gently from different directions and until it slides into place.

One other thing I didn't pay attention to was the fact that you DO NOT TIGHTEN ANYTHING until all the bolts are in and everything is lined up. I tightened the A-pipe to the cat and it made it a bitch to get it to line up with the headers, then the next day I noticed my exhaust was crooked so I had to loosen those bolts and re-align everything.

Also the torque specs for the header to head studs are "wet torque" figures. Meaning the nuts should be oiled before you put them on. I just filled a little tray with oil and put the nuts in it when I took them off.

rbf351

i never did an install on the auto, but i have numerous times on the 6 speed and
once again install the rear header from the top, it will take u a matter of 5 seconds otherwise good look tristing and turning to find the right position and waste more time than u really need

allmotor_2000

I've done > 10 installs on both 6-speeds and auto's and I never took the strut-bar out. ChatT's point is correct, you can torque the rear manifold ONLY... don't torque anything else.

It's upto you on the strut-bar... try it both ways

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'm definately going to have to evaluate which approach to utilize when all is said and done.

Once again, an excellant point. I will certainly place everything on in a semi-fastened state to evaluate the overall alignment before doing the final clamp down.

O.K; Would it be preferential to use oil or would 'Anti-Seize' be an acceptable alternative?? If I happened to forget to use oil, but still performed the final torque process, would I still be ok?


When you mention the 'rear manifold', I presume that your talking about the side closest to the Radiator?? This seems visually to be the only side that would, although there's still not alot of room, allow the use of a torque wrench. The side nearest the firewall is awfully tight and would only allow for the use of the human torque wrench (ie a socket/wrench)

This I'll watch out for sure, I certainly do not want to unknowingly foul this sensor, get everyting together, fire up the engine and have the CEL going off.

Thanks for all of the very useful insight, this is exactly the type of tips that I was hoping to garner from you more experienced individuals.

Peace

allmotor_2000

The rear means towards the firewall.

Allout

Allmotor,

I only use my 1/2" drive and 3/8" drive stuff. Is that what you mean instead of 3/4" and 1/4" above?

allmotor_2000

Yeah... my mistake.. 3/8", not 3/4"

ChadT

Probably will be fine. It just says to do so in the manual and I had a plastic cap from an aerisol can that I just put some oil in. Your torque will just be a bit lower due to friction.


I think what allmotor was trying to say was that the only thing you can torque down before everything is bolted together is the rear (towards firewall) header. You can get a torque wrench on all of the bolts but it's not easy. I knocked myself in the head a bunch of times torqueing the rear header nuts.

rbf351

if you remove the strut bar then u can easily get a torque wrench from the top

AuCLSman

o2 sessor wiring has a amphenol type connector which allows disconnection of the a-pipe from the car without removing the sensor from the pipe til you have it out and on the bench. this connector is tricky to get to and remove. one person on top and one on the bottom helps greatly. should only take 1/2 minute to unsnap with help other wise very difficult

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like that's the best approach, definately would leave one less thing to do while under the car as well as safeguarding the O2 sensor from possible contamination while laying on ones back.

[QUOTE=allmotor_2000...#12 wrench with raised head (the wrench looks like a 'Z' shape) - used on the left-most header bolt that's near the alternator - prevents having to remove the alternator[/QUOTE]

It looks like I don't have on of these 12mm Z-shaped wrenches, will have to try and find one at Sears or somewhere. Is this the standard approach, or has anyone else utilized another means to get at this difficult location without removing the alternator??

Thanks again for all the excellent responses!

rbf351

there is another way to get around removing the alternator

take off the one wire then under that there is a bolt which removes the plastic whiuch then gives you enough room to get a rachet and socket in there

BC2G

just went through all of this, if you have all of the equipment allmotor recomended you can do the project in a couple of hours..... also, what kind of headers did u get? the alpha werks headers came with a gasket that didnt fit the rear portion of the pipe that connects to the cat... so make sure all the gaskets fit properly!

zeta

iTrader: (1)

rbf351,
I will definetly check this out when it comes time for the installation; however, that may be in a few weeks. From what I understand, there is currently a backorder situation at Comptech for 6-speed headers. Not sure if Auto headers are in this status though. So, at least for now, I'm trying to get 'all my ducks in a row', if you will, in preparation for the eventual install. Thanks for the recommendation.

I'm going to make every effort to salvage the stock gaskets and reinstall them.

RaptorCLS

Good Grief...after seeing that list I'm not DIY'ing that project.

rbf351

the install takes 1 1/2 hours to remove the stock manifolds and a pipe and install the new ones. it's a very easy project

fender4

access to a lift will make the job 100 times easier,, I've done it both ways and getting the car up so you a can walk / work under it is the only way to go. Of course it can also be done on jack stands,, just a MAJOR pain in the back the next day,, I'm getting to old for this stuff

Allout

I use a 12mm wobblie (lika a 12mm socket and universal all in one). Works like a charm for me. Actually installed my Comptech's into my 6MT last night and that's what I used.

VeeralS05

this should be archived....

BC2G

its definitely not easy, but do-able.... the right tools make the job~

jproy

you guys talked about torque on the bolts like 15 times there. what in the heck are the factory torque specs for the header bolts?

thanks
jim

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

So my brother-in-law and I tried to install my Comptech Headers this weekend, but were unsuccessful.

I didn't have a couple of the sockets that allmotor mentioned so I gotta pick those up this week. The bolts on the A pipe connecting to the cat were on really tight. So with the use of some PB blaster and going to auto zone to pick up a breaker bar, it helped solve that problem. Too bad we had other issues...

We ran into a few other hangups along the way which I wanted to ask you guys about before we make our 2nd attempt next weekend:

1) How were you able to get to the bolt that is on the top of the A pipe that connects to the CAT to loosen the bolt? When we tried to get to it, my socket wrench kept hitting the exhaust hanger that is to the left of the pipe if you were facing towards the front of the car). Which tool did you use to get to that?

2) I have a hydraulic jack and some jack stands. of course just behind the wheel is the proper jack location, but that is where the jack stands would go. where else is a good location under the car to place the hydraulic jack so that I don't inadvertently cause any bending or damage to the frame?

3) In the install directions for the comptech headers, step 1 says to remove the center beam that goes front to back under the engine to make the install easier. we looked and couldn't identify the beam they were talking about. Anyone have a picture of what they were referring to? (I forgot to take pics of my car before I took it off the jack stands, sorry)



Other highlights, we looked and looked, and didnt' see how people could manage to drop the headers from the top. The bottom seems to be the easiest way of doing so. The only thing that seems difficult is making sure the gasket is in the right location when we try to bolt up the header since it's such a tight squeeze.