1– problems occurring before 100K miles, ENGINE OIL LEVEL
10-26-2014, 12:27 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
1– problems occurring before 100K miles, ENGINE OIL LEVEL
Regular checks and some preventative maintenance can help to avoid some of the unexpected problems which can occur before 100K miles. And if you are purchasing a used RDX, the following may give you some ideas where to look for problems.
If the engine oil level drops between oil changes, there is either a LEAK, or the engine is *burning* oil. If the problem is found early, it can be fixed under Honda warranty. If there is a TSB (technical service bulletin) for a problem, you might get Honda to pay for a repair, even after the warranty has expired.
LEAK FROM ENGINE VALVE COVER
On some engines, oil can leak from the driver side front corner of the valve cover. You may be able to check yourself for leaking oil. Look carefully. There is a TSB which applies to this problem:
ACURA SERVICE BULLETIN 10-049 applies to RDX all from 2007-2011, Engine Oil Leak at the Cylinder Head Cover
LEAK FROM THE ENGINE REAR-MAIN SEAL or OIL PAN GASKET
On my own RDX, there appears to be a small leak/ seep from either the engine rear main seal, or from the corner of the oil pan just below the main seal. It is difficult to see into this area. However, I do *not* note a measurable fall in the engine oil level, in my normal oil-change interval, and there is never any oil on the garage floor. Just some on the transmission/ engine seam-interface on the bottom of the cases.
LINK: possible engine rear-main seal leak, or transmission input shaft seal leak
https://acurazine.com/forums/problems-fixes-160/possible-transmission-leak-887365/
LEAK FROM DRAIN PLUG
Soon after an oil change, it can be a good idea to check for any leaks from the oil pan drain plug. People are not perfect, and I have personally experienced a Quickie-Lube place that has either over tightened the drain plug, or left it loose and leaking. Its easy enough to just look for any oil drops near the front of the RDX on the garage floor, and then just look under the car at the drain plug. The RDX is high enough that it is not necessary to lift the front of the car to make this check.
PLUGGED VTEC FILTER?
The vTEC system is an of example why it is best to use the engine oil recommended by Acura, and to change the oil based on the MID (maintenance indicator display). If oil sludge plugs the vTEC control holes, the system will not work. And adding fresh oil will not remove the sludge, since the sludge is from the oil itself, which was not changed when it should have been done. The vTEC filter-screen is supposed to protect the rest of the system, but sludge in one place means sludge other places.
I have not seen any posted problems with the RDX vTEC system, but there are reports of problems with the vTEC system, for most other Honda models, caused by oil-sludge. The difference is probably that the RDX requires synthetic oil vs non-synthetic, and most RDX owners follow the MID for oil changes.
The MID probably does not cover 100% of all driving conditions. How many of the following circumstances fit your own driver profile: many short trips, in cold and very wet conditions, using turbo-boost (on cold engine) regardless of the short trips, racing from-light-to-light, vehicle is allowed to sit for 1-2 (or more) days between trips, towing, etc. For special service, consider changing the oil sooner than the MID recommends.
PCV SYSTEM
Consider replacing the PCV valve every 4 years or 50K miles.
Once-upon-a-time, the PCV (positive crankcase vent) valve was supposed to be replaced every year or 12,000 miles. Then the EPA decided that the PCV valve should not only *never* be replaced, but that it should be *impossible* for the average driver to do so. That was because some drivers were removing the PCV valve, and venting the engine openly to atmosphere, instead of back into the intake system.
While the car manufacturers refused to weld the PCV valve into their engines, they did make current PCV valves so that they screw/ un-screw into a boss on the engine. Old style PCVs were simply inserted into a rubber grommet. A current PCV valve can still be easily replaced, and should be replaced on a regular basis, but now they cost 4-times what they used to cost.
If the PCV valve sticks closed, oil vapors are not vented properly from the crankcase. Pressure can build up, and cause oil to pass by the cylinder piston rings, causing the engine to *burn* oil.
If the PCV valve sticks open, turbo pressure is not prevented from over-pressurizing the crankcase. This can lead to oil leaks from the engine rear-main seal, oil pan seal, and every other seal in the engine block. This can also cause excess oil-vapor to blow-back through the turbo intake from the valve cover vent, into the turbo-intercooler, into the throttle body, and finally into the combustion chambers, again, *burning* oil which can damage the CATs and O2 sensors.
LINK: the PCV system and Oil Catch cans, how to test the PCV in post #10
https://acurazine.com/forums/first-generation-rdx-2007-2012-147/pcv-system-oil-catch-cans-682236/
LINK: how to change the PCV valve
https://acurazine.com/forums/diy-faq-161/pcv-701096/
TURBO COOL-DOWN?
The RDX turbo system is not supposed to require a “cool-down” period, before engine shut-down. However, that is under *normal* operational conditions. But suppose that you have just pulled a 6% grade for the past 10 miles at 80mph, and just at the summit, there is a turnout and you stop to have a look. You kill the engine as soon as you pull off the highway, and do you really think the turbo oil is not going to *coke* (turn to carbon)?
At least give the turbo a couple of minutes at engine idle, after a long pull of high-turbo boost, while looking for a parking spot. Both the turbo and engine will thank you with longer and more reliable life.
WHAT ABOUT THE MID?
The maintenance information display (MID) will display SERVICE PAST DUE, when the oil life reaches 0% and an additional 10 miles are driven. The MID will continue to accumulate and display the number of miles driven, after the oil like reaches 0%. The Owner Manual does not state how many miles are tracked, so I am assuming that the number is indefinite, like maybe even 1,000 miles?
If you are the original owner, keep in mind that if the dealer is the one changing your oil, they will see and read and possibly log the number of miles you have driven past an oil life of 0%. That can affect any later warranty claim that you may have.
If you are purchasing a used RDX, you may be able to find the place (ask?) where the original owner had the oil changed. And check if there is a record of how often the oil was changed after reaching an oil life of 0%, and how many miles were driven after the oil life reached 0%.
WHICH ENGINE OIL?
Are you using a Honda HTO-06 rated oil? As required by the Acura RDX turbo engine?
Every automotive dealer, is free to use any oil they choose. There is nothing to *force* a dealer to use the correct oil in your vehicle. Most dealers are honest. But you might want to verify that the correct oil is being used in your RDX, and not the typical bulk oil which all dealers purchase and use. There is nothing wrong with bulk oil, but it will not be the special oil required for an RDX.
Honda does label their own HTO-06 oil, but that oil is not produced by Honda, and is not supplied by Mobil-1 either. Honda/ Acura has made a *big-deal* about how Mobil-1 was chosen as the best oil for an RDX. Honda makes a corporate deal every few years, with a large oil producer, to supply all Honda labeled oil sold through their dealerships. Honda’s choice is based on, you guessed it, price.
If you have your oil changed at a Acura/ Honda dealer, you can always ask for the empty bottles. Then you can check that the correct HTO-06 oil was used, check the manufacturer’s date code, and also look for any additive settling in the bottles.
ENGINE OIL ADDITIVE SETTLING
Engine oil additive settling is not unusual, in unopened bottles. This is particularly true if the oil has been stored at below freezing temperatures. But those oil additives belong in your engine, not left in the bottom of the bottles. Additives prevent engine corrosion, wear, and help to suspend engine wear particles.
LINK: oil additive settling and shelf life
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13875658#post13875658
----eof
If the engine oil level drops between oil changes, there is either a LEAK, or the engine is *burning* oil. If the problem is found early, it can be fixed under Honda warranty. If there is a TSB (technical service bulletin) for a problem, you might get Honda to pay for a repair, even after the warranty has expired.
LEAK FROM ENGINE VALVE COVER
On some engines, oil can leak from the driver side front corner of the valve cover. You may be able to check yourself for leaking oil. Look carefully. There is a TSB which applies to this problem:
ACURA SERVICE BULLETIN 10-049 applies to RDX all from 2007-2011, Engine Oil Leak at the Cylinder Head Cover
LEAK FROM THE ENGINE REAR-MAIN SEAL or OIL PAN GASKET
On my own RDX, there appears to be a small leak/ seep from either the engine rear main seal, or from the corner of the oil pan just below the main seal. It is difficult to see into this area. However, I do *not* note a measurable fall in the engine oil level, in my normal oil-change interval, and there is never any oil on the garage floor. Just some on the transmission/ engine seam-interface on the bottom of the cases.
LINK: possible engine rear-main seal leak, or transmission input shaft seal leak
https://acurazine.com/forums/problems-fixes-160/possible-transmission-leak-887365/
LEAK FROM DRAIN PLUG
Soon after an oil change, it can be a good idea to check for any leaks from the oil pan drain plug. People are not perfect, and I have personally experienced a Quickie-Lube place that has either over tightened the drain plug, or left it loose and leaking. Its easy enough to just look for any oil drops near the front of the RDX on the garage floor, and then just look under the car at the drain plug. The RDX is high enough that it is not necessary to lift the front of the car to make this check.
PLUGGED VTEC FILTER?
The vTEC system is an of example why it is best to use the engine oil recommended by Acura, and to change the oil based on the MID (maintenance indicator display). If oil sludge plugs the vTEC control holes, the system will not work. And adding fresh oil will not remove the sludge, since the sludge is from the oil itself, which was not changed when it should have been done. The vTEC filter-screen is supposed to protect the rest of the system, but sludge in one place means sludge other places.
I have not seen any posted problems with the RDX vTEC system, but there are reports of problems with the vTEC system, for most other Honda models, caused by oil-sludge. The difference is probably that the RDX requires synthetic oil vs non-synthetic, and most RDX owners follow the MID for oil changes.
The MID probably does not cover 100% of all driving conditions. How many of the following circumstances fit your own driver profile: many short trips, in cold and very wet conditions, using turbo-boost (on cold engine) regardless of the short trips, racing from-light-to-light, vehicle is allowed to sit for 1-2 (or more) days between trips, towing, etc. For special service, consider changing the oil sooner than the MID recommends.
PCV SYSTEM
Consider replacing the PCV valve every 4 years or 50K miles.
Once-upon-a-time, the PCV (positive crankcase vent) valve was supposed to be replaced every year or 12,000 miles. Then the EPA decided that the PCV valve should not only *never* be replaced, but that it should be *impossible* for the average driver to do so. That was because some drivers were removing the PCV valve, and venting the engine openly to atmosphere, instead of back into the intake system.
While the car manufacturers refused to weld the PCV valve into their engines, they did make current PCV valves so that they screw/ un-screw into a boss on the engine. Old style PCVs were simply inserted into a rubber grommet. A current PCV valve can still be easily replaced, and should be replaced on a regular basis, but now they cost 4-times what they used to cost.
If the PCV valve sticks closed, oil vapors are not vented properly from the crankcase. Pressure can build up, and cause oil to pass by the cylinder piston rings, causing the engine to *burn* oil.
If the PCV valve sticks open, turbo pressure is not prevented from over-pressurizing the crankcase. This can lead to oil leaks from the engine rear-main seal, oil pan seal, and every other seal in the engine block. This can also cause excess oil-vapor to blow-back through the turbo intake from the valve cover vent, into the turbo-intercooler, into the throttle body, and finally into the combustion chambers, again, *burning* oil which can damage the CATs and O2 sensors.
LINK: the PCV system and Oil Catch cans, how to test the PCV in post #10
https://acurazine.com/forums/first-generation-rdx-2007-2012-147/pcv-system-oil-catch-cans-682236/
LINK: how to change the PCV valve
https://acurazine.com/forums/diy-faq-161/pcv-701096/
TURBO COOL-DOWN?
The RDX turbo system is not supposed to require a “cool-down” period, before engine shut-down. However, that is under *normal* operational conditions. But suppose that you have just pulled a 6% grade for the past 10 miles at 80mph, and just at the summit, there is a turnout and you stop to have a look. You kill the engine as soon as you pull off the highway, and do you really think the turbo oil is not going to *coke* (turn to carbon)?
At least give the turbo a couple of minutes at engine idle, after a long pull of high-turbo boost, while looking for a parking spot. Both the turbo and engine will thank you with longer and more reliable life.
WHAT ABOUT THE MID?
The maintenance information display (MID) will display SERVICE PAST DUE, when the oil life reaches 0% and an additional 10 miles are driven. The MID will continue to accumulate and display the number of miles driven, after the oil like reaches 0%. The Owner Manual does not state how many miles are tracked, so I am assuming that the number is indefinite, like maybe even 1,000 miles?
If you are the original owner, keep in mind that if the dealer is the one changing your oil, they will see and read and possibly log the number of miles you have driven past an oil life of 0%. That can affect any later warranty claim that you may have.
If you are purchasing a used RDX, you may be able to find the place (ask?) where the original owner had the oil changed. And check if there is a record of how often the oil was changed after reaching an oil life of 0%, and how many miles were driven after the oil life reached 0%.
WHICH ENGINE OIL?
Are you using a Honda HTO-06 rated oil? As required by the Acura RDX turbo engine?
Every automotive dealer, is free to use any oil they choose. There is nothing to *force* a dealer to use the correct oil in your vehicle. Most dealers are honest. But you might want to verify that the correct oil is being used in your RDX, and not the typical bulk oil which all dealers purchase and use. There is nothing wrong with bulk oil, but it will not be the special oil required for an RDX.
Honda does label their own HTO-06 oil, but that oil is not produced by Honda, and is not supplied by Mobil-1 either. Honda/ Acura has made a *big-deal* about how Mobil-1 was chosen as the best oil for an RDX. Honda makes a corporate deal every few years, with a large oil producer, to supply all Honda labeled oil sold through their dealerships. Honda’s choice is based on, you guessed it, price.
If you have your oil changed at a Acura/ Honda dealer, you can always ask for the empty bottles. Then you can check that the correct HTO-06 oil was used, check the manufacturer’s date code, and also look for any additive settling in the bottles.
ENGINE OIL ADDITIVE SETTLING
Engine oil additive settling is not unusual, in unopened bottles. This is particularly true if the oil has been stored at below freezing temperatures. But those oil additives belong in your engine, not left in the bottom of the bottles. Additives prevent engine corrosion, wear, and help to suspend engine wear particles.
LINK: oil additive settling and shelf life
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13875658#post13875658
----eof
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