Winter tips for snow country
10-05-2008, 09:28 PM
#1
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Winter tips for snow country
For you that live in snow country where the car is subject to a lot of sand/rock damage and where they use a lot of chemicals on the roads I'll post a few things that I do to help preserve the paint.
1) Apply at least 3 layers of a good sealant ( Duragloss #105 or Meguiars #21 ) while the temperatures are above 45F. Each layer should be at least 24 hours apart. Same for the wheels.
I run the stock wheels for winter and I apply the sealant over a period of a week in the shop/basement prior to installing them on the car.
2) This step might sound odd to some but I have done it for years and it cuts down a lot on rock damage.
I apply a layer of black electrical tape to the edges of the fender openings, to the leading edge of the roof, to the mirror backs, to the complete rocker panels and under the mud flaps that I put back on for winter. On my TL I also tape over the center bar on the grill.
The car looks a little ugly but in the last 5 winters I have had no , and I repeat no , rock damage to the wheel wells .. mirrors or rocker panels.
3) Run a bra for the winter but take it off periodically to clean under it and l hang it in the basement to dry then vacuum the back before I reinsall it.
I also apply a couple of strips of electrical tape under the esposed trailing edges odf the bra where it touches the hood/fenders. This eliminates chafing.
To remove the tape in the spring just use a hair dryer .. then do your spring detail
4) I seldom wash the car during the winter unless its warm enough to do a proper wash at home . At least once a week I go to the spray wash and just spray off the heavier crud using only the rinse water as the soap is pretty strong and will degrade the sealant.
Occasionally id its not too cold I'll take my pail and my own wash soap/water to the spray wash and first spray off the heavy crud then gently using a sheepskin mitt I use my water to wash the whole car down then I use the spray rinse. I seldome dry the car when doing this as these sprays can blow sand granuals up on the surface to be ground in by the drying towel.
Any time I do a highway road trip I stop at my destination and just spray the car off and do it again soon as I get back to town... even before I go home .. costs a $1 and taked 3 min. Keeps the crud from bonding to the paint.
If you have a semi warm garage you could occasionally do the Optimum No Rinse but only after you have used the spray wash to remove the heavy crud.
I don't have a garage ...
Sounds like a bit of work and 3 or 4 rolls of tape but I have gone 2 winters now with the TL and have 3 very small rock chips .
1) Apply at least 3 layers of a good sealant ( Duragloss #105 or Meguiars #21 ) while the temperatures are above 45F. Each layer should be at least 24 hours apart. Same for the wheels.
I run the stock wheels for winter and I apply the sealant over a period of a week in the shop/basement prior to installing them on the car.
2) This step might sound odd to some but I have done it for years and it cuts down a lot on rock damage.
I apply a layer of black electrical tape to the edges of the fender openings, to the leading edge of the roof, to the mirror backs, to the complete rocker panels and under the mud flaps that I put back on for winter. On my TL I also tape over the center bar on the grill.
The car looks a little ugly but in the last 5 winters I have had no , and I repeat no , rock damage to the wheel wells .. mirrors or rocker panels.
3) Run a bra for the winter but take it off periodically to clean under it and l hang it in the basement to dry then vacuum the back before I reinsall it.
I also apply a couple of strips of electrical tape under the esposed trailing edges odf the bra where it touches the hood/fenders. This eliminates chafing.
To remove the tape in the spring just use a hair dryer .. then do your spring detail
4) I seldom wash the car during the winter unless its warm enough to do a proper wash at home . At least once a week I go to the spray wash and just spray off the heavier crud using only the rinse water as the soap is pretty strong and will degrade the sealant.
Occasionally id its not too cold I'll take my pail and my own wash soap/water to the spray wash and first spray off the heavy crud then gently using a sheepskin mitt I use my water to wash the whole car down then I use the spray rinse. I seldome dry the car when doing this as these sprays can blow sand granuals up on the surface to be ground in by the drying towel.
Any time I do a highway road trip I stop at my destination and just spray the car off and do it again soon as I get back to town... even before I go home .. costs a $1 and taked 3 min. Keeps the crud from bonding to the paint.
If you have a semi warm garage you could occasionally do the Optimum No Rinse but only after you have used the spray wash to remove the heavy crud.
I don't have a garage ...
Sounds like a bit of work and 3 or 4 rolls of tape but I have gone 2 winters now with the TL and have 3 very small rock chips .
10-06-2008, 07:47 AM
#2
Former Sponsor
I feel for you guys..............
kidding........(especially you Dale......).
...
(That was for the 1000 Oaks rub.......lol)
No, thats gotta be tough on both individual and car. I really have no idea what you all go through. I have detailed cars from back east before, that still had salt remnants in the rear pass areas from the previous winter. But never had to maintain a true Winters bashing.
kidding........(especially you Dale......).
...(That was for the 1000 Oaks rub.......lol)
No, thats gotta be tough on both individual and car. I really have no idea what you all go through. I have detailed cars from back east before, that still had salt remnants in the rear pass areas from the previous winter. But never had to maintain a true Winters bashing.
10-06-2008, 01:04 PM
#3
The Detailer
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I feel for you guys..............
kidding........(especially you Dale......)....
(That was for the 1000 Oaks rub.......lol)
No, thats gotta be tough on both individual and car. I really have no idea what you all go through. I have detailed cars from back east before, that still had salt remnants in the rear pass areas from the previous winter. But never had to maintain a true Winters bashing.
kidding........(especially you Dale......).
...(That was for the 1000 Oaks rub.......lol)
No, thats gotta be tough on both individual and car. I really have no idea what you all go through. I have detailed cars from back east before, that still had salt remnants in the rear pass areas from the previous winter. But never had to maintain a true Winters bashing.
10-06-2008, 01:07 PM
#4
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Pfffttt!!!!!
Check out our forcast for this week
http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/..._metric_e.html
10-06-2008, 03:51 PM
#5
I now drive an accord....
Before our first snow my CL will be freshly cleaned and under her cover in the garage for a long winter nap 
During the nasty weather my beat up 91 explorer comes out to play
Buy a beater... Thats my tip
During the nasty weather my beat up 91 explorer comes out to play
Buy a beater... Thats my tip
10-06-2008, 11:01 PM
#7
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
10-06-2008, 11:50 PM
#8
Former Sponsor
94° F | 58° F
34° C | 14° C
85° F | 56° F
29° C | 13° C
81° F | 54° F
27° C | 12° C
81° F | 56° F
27° C | 13° C
Tues Wed Thurs Fri
Sorry Dale......
Not that I like Mid 90's or even Mid 80's. i really prefer it around 62-68.
10-07-2008, 08:31 AM
#9
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
Heck I prefer to work in those tempertures ... I love the heat ... after a detail I even go sleep on a lounge in the sun to rest up for a beer.
10-07-2008, 10:07 AM
#10
Former Sponsor
10-07-2008, 09:02 PM
#13
Suzuka Master
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