JohnCollins

I recently got a 2004 Acura TL from Seattle and shipped it to Philly (long story). It was on the top of the car truck, back end forward and came covered in bug guts. I carefully debugged the thing working with the trunk open so I could see details up close. Unfortunately, I missed a little bug guts in the small spaces above the tail lights. I waxed with Meguiars Gold liquid clearcoat wax. I spotted the bug guts in bright sun yesterday.

Is there anything special I need to do to attack the bug guts in that area? Will waxing over it make it harder to remove? I won't get to it until the weekend, unfortunately.

Thanks.

John

csmeance

i use wax to get rid or them, just spray, leave on and wipe away, the bugs are gone and the paint is slick

EndCheck

Try one of those clay bars.

exceldetail

Hammer 'n chisel............

Spray with some QD, give it several minutes to soften, then try a toothpick or q-tip in tight areas.............

JohnCollins

Thanks! Doesn't sound like waxing over them caused any big problems. I'll get at it this weekend when I attack the wheels and tires.

John

exceldetail

Just be careful, and meticulous.........

TOGWT

Bug Residue:
Dried bug remains are both abrasive and acidic (pH 3.0-4.0) and can scratch paint or glass surfaces, many times the acids will "cloud" or "etch" surfaces as they contain highly acidic concentrates, and should be carefully removed as soon as possible They produce what acts like a super-adhesive on impact (especially when heated or when they have remained on the vehicle surface for any amount of time) you almost need a crowbar to separate these substances from the paint, windshield, headlights or front end of your car.

Notes-
a) Use caution using bug removal products as they usually contain hydrocarbon solvents, which may compromise the integrity of the clear coat causing it to occlude (clouding or yellowing).
b) Do not scrub hardened/dried bug residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface
c) No car care product (polymer or wax) will protect your paint from this type of acid, as soon as it is noticed remove from the surface.

Use an Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or a glass cleaner, but avoid ammonia based products (ammonia acts as an acid accelerant) or a gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time and apply to effected area in a shaded area as the alcohol will evaporate very quickly in direct sunlight. Take your time and blot with the alcohol until it softens and melts the sap to the point where you can gently wipe it off the paint.

The alcohol content, acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it dwell for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry. Pre-soak heavy bug contamination with an IPA soaked towel(s) and let dwell for 4-5 minutes before removing.

Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain carnauba wax, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated each time it comes into contact with water.

If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated each time it comes into contact with water. Water contains 2- hydrogen and 1-oxygen atom and will acts as a catalyst and a carrier system for acid. Oxygen is an oxidizer; ozone is an allotropic form of oxygen (an oxidizer is any component that emits oxygen); many chemical compounds react to slight heating and an oxidizing process.

Add water (dew, rain, car washing etc) so now you have an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which equates to a highly concentrated acidic solution, which causes a concave indentation (acid etching) to the paint surface. This should be neutralized by using an appropriate product (Automotive International, A B C Decontamination/Neutralization wash system (http://www.autoint.com). If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection. (See also Reactivity)

JohnCollins

WOW! Now that's an informative post!

Reminds me of the guy on the original CSI who's a bug expert.

John