Wax and Polish
03-19-2007, 02:10 PM
#1
TSXRCR22
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Location: Annapolis, MD
Age: 41
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Wax and Polish
What type of wax and polish should I use? Also which PC does the wax and which one does the polish? Or do they each do both? Also which pads do I need for both wax and polish. I must have read thousands of different threads and there are so many opinions which is very helpful. My only other questions are first, should I use a PC or do it by hand, and second, do I use paste, spray, or a different type of wax and polish? I need to remove swirls on a black TSX.
Finally, I want something that will protect my paint and keep me from having to do this once a month. I like cleaning my car but want to do it right from now on. I love black cars but they are impossible to keep clean so anytype of solution that does that is my best friend. Thank you for your feedback.
Finally, I want something that will protect my paint and keep me from having to do this once a month. I like cleaning my car but want to do it right from now on. I love black cars but they are impossible to keep clean so anytype of solution that does that is my best friend. Thank you for your feedback.
03-19-2007, 03:00 PM
#2
Black is one of the hardest exterior color to upkeep and one needs to allocate time for cleaning and maintaining. Let's got through the process . . . .
Wash - removes dirt, road debris and fallout from the vehicles surface
Clay - removes surface contaminants such a brake dust, rail dust, sap and overspray from the painted surface making it smooth to the touch
Polish - will clean and remove surface defects such as swirls, marring, light scratching and oxidation. Will also provide gloss and reflectivity to the paint. Best accomplished by machine (PC with polishing pads) but can be done by hand (time consuming and results are not consistent)
Seal - the final step, acts as a layer of protection. You can use either a natural wax (carnuba) or a synthetic (polymer). Carnuba does not have the longevity or durability compared to synthetics.
There are numerous products on the market. Here's a list of online detail sites. You can also check out this thread and see what some of the members prefer using.
Wash - removes dirt, road debris and fallout from the vehicles surface
Clay - removes surface contaminants such a brake dust, rail dust, sap and overspray from the painted surface making it smooth to the touch
Polish - will clean and remove surface defects such as swirls, marring, light scratching and oxidation. Will also provide gloss and reflectivity to the paint. Best accomplished by machine (PC with polishing pads) but can be done by hand (time consuming and results are not consistent)
Seal - the final step, acts as a layer of protection. You can use either a natural wax (carnuba) or a synthetic (polymer). Carnuba does not have the longevity or durability compared to synthetics.
There are numerous products on the market. Here's a list of online detail sites. You can also check out this thread and see what some of the members prefer using.
03-19-2007, 03:33 PM
#3
TSXRCR22
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OK I think I understand. I will follow these directions. I have picked out mainly Meguiars brand product. Any comments on that? I do not have to use clay on a new car correct? Do I need to wax it or not? Does the Polish and Sealant work better? When would I wax it?
03-19-2007, 03:58 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Integraboy22
OK I think I understand. I will follow these directions. I have picked out mainly Meguiars brand product. Any comments on that? Do I need to wax it or not? Does the Polish and Sealant work better? When would I wax it?
Originally Posted by Integraboy22
I do not have to use clay on a new car correct?
03-19-2007, 04:41 PM
#5
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Originally Posted by Integraboy22
OK I think I understand. I will follow these directions. I have picked out mainly Meguiars brand product. Any comments on that? I do not have to use clay on a new car correct? Do I need to wax it or not? Does the Polish and Sealant work better? When would I wax it?
This may help in your noble quest for knowledge: http://autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/
Look at the table of contents on the right, and work your way through them.
Last edited by stogie1020; 03-19-2007 at 04:44 PM.
03-19-2007, 10:41 PM
#7
Patrick, with a lot folks new to the detailing scene, I think a "New Car Care Kit" would possibly be a worthwhile endeavor. I was searching for old threads to refer to about caring and maintaining new cars and it took awhile. I'll do more research for this, compile the info and make a thread on it.
Trending Topics
03-20-2007, 03:52 AM
#9
The Old Grey Whistle Test
A 'New Car Kit' would be an excellent idea; perhaps this will help, you could remove my product preferences-
New vehicle, Initial Care:
Most people believe that a new car needs little if any care for the first week or so, not true. Most new vehicles leave the factory, they sit in dirt parking lots, they are transported by trains, trucks, or ships, and then they are generally subjected to the removal of transit plastic protection wrap and usually harsh washing conditions once they arrive at the car dealership.
Most vehicles are shipped at some point via rail car which is notorious for getting oxidized contaminants onto the paint surface. Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate surface contamination; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free Acid rain, road salt; tree sap and airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. Brake dust or rail dust are very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys.
These particles carry a negative charge while the vehicles they land on are carrying a positive charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle surface, once you add water (dew, rain, humidity, etc) any of the microscopic particles of steel, iron that have compromised the paint surface will cause rust contamination
Dealer prep surface scratches / marring- use Zaino Paint Cleaner – http://www.zainostore.com/ to remove and then apply a polymer sealant and / or wax for paint surface protection
1. Wash with a good car wash, not dish soap.
2. Use two buckets when you wash (preferably one with a grit guard) one for the soapy water and one with clean water to rinse your wool wash mitt.
3. Use detailer’s clay and the proper lubricant
4. Only use good quality towels (waffle weave Microfiber or otherwise) to dry the car. Some prefer the use of a leaf blower.
5. Rewash to ensure any clay "residue" is removed.
6. Dealer prep surface scratches / marring- use Zaino Paint Cleaner – http://www.zainostore.com/ to remove and then apply a polymer sealant and / or wax for paint surface protection
7. If the paint has defects (swirls, spider webbing, etc.), then you'll need to use a polish with a random orbital buffer or a high speed rotary, with the appropriate types of foam pads
8. Apply a sealant and / or Carnauba wax to protect the paint film surface.
1. RapGard (Plastic Transit Film):
Many manufacturers are using this white plastic covering in place of synthetic or wax based shipping coatings. Plastic becomes brittle with age (90 to 180 days) and becomes difficult to remove as it "shreds" while being pulled off, additionally there maybe excess adhesive residue left on the surface.
Spray Valugard’s New Car Prep onto the Rapgard, allow to dwell for three or four minutes. Remove NCP residue with a 100% cotton towel (DFTowel) The Rapguard should now gently peel off, pull away from body at a 45 degree angle using an even pressure, you may find that it shreds. The ideal paint surface temperature for RapGuard removal is between 600F (150C) to 800F (260C) If the surface temperature is below 600F (150C) removal is best done inside. Spray the uncovered paint surface with New Car Prep to remove any adhesive residue htpp://www.autoint.com
Wash vehicle with a car wash concentrate diluted 1 oz. per gallon of water any remove any ‘solid’ adhesive residue with detailers clay. The product they use is either Cosmoline (used by Porsche amongst others) or a blend of paraffin and a synthetic wax, but it’s mainly paraffin that is used to protect new cars during shipment. They are sprayed on most engine and exterior finishes to provide a barrier to the elements. (Zymöl Strik™ Cosmoline Remover and Engine Cleaner) will remove it-
Product specific - Zymol http://fp.zymol.com/strik2.htm) or AutoBody Prep (http://www.autoint.com)
Most important; protect the finish with a polymer sealant and / or a Carnauba wax
(See also new Polymer Sealant, Polymer Sealant or Waxing New Paint)
2. Cleaning Wheel Surface:
Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today's wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces. Apply a polymer to the wheel surfaces (Klasse All-In-One)
3. Cleaning Tyres:
•Rinse thoroughly with a fairly strong stream of clean water to remove any loose road dirt etc., from tyre’s and wheel wells.
•Clean tyres with a rubber cleaner (3M Tire & Wheel Cleaner -39036) or a citrus-based APC (P21S Total Auto Wash)
•Use a water-based polymer tyre dressing (Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss™)
•Apply a (UVR) protection to the tyres.
4. Detailers Clay:
Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate surface contamination; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free
•Divide the Detailer's Clay into equal pieces and knead into a ball to ensure pliability
•Take one of the pieces and flatten it out into a circle, approximately enough that it will fit into two or three fingers
•Spray a 2-foot by 2-foot surface with a 5:1 lubricating solution (Distilled water / WooliteTM or Dreft™ ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet
•Glide the Clay across the area in a front to back in a straight-line aquaplaning type motion
•Use long strokes without lifting the clay from the surface
•Use a light to medium even pressure until the surface becomes smooth and silent.
•If the Clay is streaking on the paint, you need more to apply more lubricating solution, it is better to over lubricate the paint film surface than let it dry-out
5. Vinyl and hard plastic surfaces:
•Apply any dressings very sparingly as these surfaces don’t allow the dressings to penetrate very well
•Use a suitable matte type dressing (Iz Cockpit Premium) to ensure that there is no reflection on the windshield, reducing visibility.
•Apply a UVR protection (303 Space Protectant) especially to the dash and any other surface that is subjected to sunlight on a regular basis.
6. Surface Protection:
Regularly applied wax and/or a polymer sealant will both protect the paint surface from surface contamination that collects on a painted finish which includes, Industrial fallout (IFO), Rail Dust, Acid Rain, Hard Water Spots, Tar, Bird Droppings, Waxes/Silicones, Oxidation, Adhesive Residue, Road Grime Rust Stains. I would seriously consider the purchase of a clear automotive protective coating (aka Clear Bra)
Use Optimum Poli-Seal and white lake county (LC) polishing pad, this one-step product is perfect for the neophyte or experienced detailer, it will make a noticeable improvement on even brand new paint as it will deepen the shine and jetting (wet-look gloss) durability approx. 3-4 months, maintain the shine with Optimum Spray Wax- http://superiorcarcare.net/oppo.html
7. Car Cover:
The greatest treats to the preservation of your vehicle are; Airborne Contaminants, Industrial Fallout (this includes Acid Rain) Ultra Violet Radiation (UVR) Oxidation, Bird Excrement and Brake Dust, wind blown debris and pollution. Protect your investment with a car cover, outdoors, car covers offer unequalled protection against ultra-violet radiation (UVR) they are water resistant and provide protection from acid rain, pollution, bird excrement, tree sap and wind blown debris.
New vehicle, Initial Care:
Most people believe that a new car needs little if any care for the first week or so, not true. Most new vehicles leave the factory, they sit in dirt parking lots, they are transported by trains, trucks, or ships, and then they are generally subjected to the removal of transit plastic protection wrap and usually harsh washing conditions once they arrive at the car dealership.
Most vehicles are shipped at some point via rail car which is notorious for getting oxidized contaminants onto the paint surface. Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate surface contamination; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free Acid rain, road salt; tree sap and airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. Brake dust or rail dust are very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys.
These particles carry a negative charge while the vehicles they land on are carrying a positive charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle surface, once you add water (dew, rain, humidity, etc) any of the microscopic particles of steel, iron that have compromised the paint surface will cause rust contamination
Dealer prep surface scratches / marring- use Zaino Paint Cleaner – http://www.zainostore.com/ to remove and then apply a polymer sealant and / or wax for paint surface protection
1. Wash with a good car wash, not dish soap.
2. Use two buckets when you wash (preferably one with a grit guard) one for the soapy water and one with clean water to rinse your wool wash mitt.
3. Use detailer’s clay and the proper lubricant
4. Only use good quality towels (waffle weave Microfiber or otherwise) to dry the car. Some prefer the use of a leaf blower.
5. Rewash to ensure any clay "residue" is removed.
6. Dealer prep surface scratches / marring- use Zaino Paint Cleaner – http://www.zainostore.com/ to remove and then apply a polymer sealant and / or wax for paint surface protection
7. If the paint has defects (swirls, spider webbing, etc.), then you'll need to use a polish with a random orbital buffer or a high speed rotary, with the appropriate types of foam pads
8. Apply a sealant and / or Carnauba wax to protect the paint film surface.
1. RapGard (Plastic Transit Film):
Many manufacturers are using this white plastic covering in place of synthetic or wax based shipping coatings. Plastic becomes brittle with age (90 to 180 days) and becomes difficult to remove as it "shreds" while being pulled off, additionally there maybe excess adhesive residue left on the surface.
Spray Valugard’s New Car Prep onto the Rapgard, allow to dwell for three or four minutes. Remove NCP residue with a 100% cotton towel (DFTowel) The Rapguard should now gently peel off, pull away from body at a 45 degree angle using an even pressure, you may find that it shreds. The ideal paint surface temperature for RapGuard removal is between 600F (150C) to 800F (260C) If the surface temperature is below 600F (150C) removal is best done inside. Spray the uncovered paint surface with New Car Prep to remove any adhesive residue htpp://www.autoint.com
Wash vehicle with a car wash concentrate diluted 1 oz. per gallon of water any remove any ‘solid’ adhesive residue with detailers clay. The product they use is either Cosmoline (used by Porsche amongst others) or a blend of paraffin and a synthetic wax, but it’s mainly paraffin that is used to protect new cars during shipment. They are sprayed on most engine and exterior finishes to provide a barrier to the elements. (Zymöl Strik™ Cosmoline Remover and Engine Cleaner) will remove it-
Product specific - Zymol http://fp.zymol.com/strik2.htm) or AutoBody Prep (http://www.autoint.com)
Most important; protect the finish with a polymer sealant and / or a Carnauba wax
(See also new Polymer Sealant, Polymer Sealant or Waxing New Paint)
2. Cleaning Wheel Surface:
Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today's wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces. Apply a polymer to the wheel surfaces (Klasse All-In-One)
3. Cleaning Tyres:
•Rinse thoroughly with a fairly strong stream of clean water to remove any loose road dirt etc., from tyre’s and wheel wells.
•Clean tyres with a rubber cleaner (3M Tire & Wheel Cleaner -39036) or a citrus-based APC (P21S Total Auto Wash)
•Use a water-based polymer tyre dressing (Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss™)
•Apply a (UVR) protection to the tyres.
4. Detailers Clay:
Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate surface contamination; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free
•Divide the Detailer's Clay into equal pieces and knead into a ball to ensure pliability
•Take one of the pieces and flatten it out into a circle, approximately enough that it will fit into two or three fingers
•Spray a 2-foot by 2-foot surface with a 5:1 lubricating solution (Distilled water / WooliteTM or Dreft™ ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet
•Glide the Clay across the area in a front to back in a straight-line aquaplaning type motion
•Use long strokes without lifting the clay from the surface
•Use a light to medium even pressure until the surface becomes smooth and silent.
•If the Clay is streaking on the paint, you need more to apply more lubricating solution, it is better to over lubricate the paint film surface than let it dry-out
5. Vinyl and hard plastic surfaces:
•Apply any dressings very sparingly as these surfaces don’t allow the dressings to penetrate very well
•Use a suitable matte type dressing (Iz Cockpit Premium) to ensure that there is no reflection on the windshield, reducing visibility.
•Apply a UVR protection (303 Space Protectant) especially to the dash and any other surface that is subjected to sunlight on a regular basis.
6. Surface Protection:
Regularly applied wax and/or a polymer sealant will both protect the paint surface from surface contamination that collects on a painted finish which includes, Industrial fallout (IFO), Rail Dust, Acid Rain, Hard Water Spots, Tar, Bird Droppings, Waxes/Silicones, Oxidation, Adhesive Residue, Road Grime Rust Stains. I would seriously consider the purchase of a clear automotive protective coating (aka Clear Bra)
Use Optimum Poli-Seal and white lake county (LC) polishing pad, this one-step product is perfect for the neophyte or experienced detailer, it will make a noticeable improvement on even brand new paint as it will deepen the shine and jetting (wet-look gloss) durability approx. 3-4 months, maintain the shine with Optimum Spray Wax- http://superiorcarcare.net/oppo.html
7. Car Cover:
The greatest treats to the preservation of your vehicle are; Airborne Contaminants, Industrial Fallout (this includes Acid Rain) Ultra Violet Radiation (UVR) Oxidation, Bird Excrement and Brake Dust, wind blown debris and pollution. Protect your investment with a car cover, outdoors, car covers offer unequalled protection against ultra-violet radiation (UVR) they are water resistant and provide protection from acid rain, pollution, bird excrement, tree sap and wind blown debris.
03-20-2007, 10:25 AM
#10
Jon, I have that particular post in a word doc and if you don't mind, I may reformat for easier reading. I also need to confirm the provided links. I'll PM you if I run into any problems. I would also like to include a blurp about the differences between natural waxes and synthetics, specific characteristics of each as well as pros and cons of using one or the other. I'll probably need help with that one. I do have a few references and any additional info info will be greatly appreciated.
Patrick & Jon, if you have any input/ideas, send me an email (Hawhyen51@gmail.com).
Patrick & Jon, if you have any input/ideas, send me an email (Hawhyen51@gmail.com).
03-20-2007, 05:44 PM
#12
UPP = Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection
UPPS = Ultimate Paint Protection Spray
Available only online.
UPPS = Ultimate Paint Protection Spray
Available only online.
03-21-2007, 03:20 PM
#13
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Beginners Product / Tools List
1.Car wash concentrate- Zymol Clear or Zaino Z-7 Car Wash
2.Detailer’s clay- Clay Magic - Blue and / or Sonus Ultra Lite Clay
3.Machine polish abrasion choice is dependant upon condition of paint surface
4.Machine polish 1-
5.Machine polish 2- Optimum Polish
6.Machine polish 3- Optimum Poli-Seal (One step polish and sealant)
7.Chemical cleaner- 1:1 solution Distilled water / Isopropyl Alcohol
8.Paint Cleaner – Zaino Z-AIO or Klasse All-In-One
9.Polymer Sealant – JEFFS Werkstatt Acrylic Jett with Trigger Sprayer
10.Carnauba Wax – Collinite 845
11.Quick detailer (QD) or Booster spray- JEFFS Werkstatt Acrylic Glos
12.Glass Surface Cleaner – Stoner’s Invisible Glass
13.Safe Solvent – Stoner’s Tarminator
Tools List
Fireman’s Hose Nozzle –
Five Gallon Buckets (with Grit Guards) - http://www.autogeek.net
1-Waffle Weave drying towels –http//:www.autopia.net
2- Sheepskin Washing mitts – http://www.autogeek.net
2-Cotton Towels - http://www.dftowel.com/
Lake County 6.5-inch CCS Foam Pads
1-Polish Cutting Pad (*Yellow)
2-Polish / Light Cutting Pad (*Orange)
1 –Heavy Polishing (*Green)
3 or 4-Polish / Waxing Pad (*White)
1or 2-Finessing Pad (*Black)
1or 2 Finishing Pad (* Blue)
1-5-inch Flexible Urethane Backing Plate
Porter-Cable 7424 random orbital buffer
If you gave this list to 20 experinced detailer's you get 25 different answers as far as car care products, but this may serve as a starting point.
I hope this helps
1.Car wash concentrate- Zymol Clear or Zaino Z-7 Car Wash
2.Detailer’s clay- Clay Magic - Blue and / or Sonus Ultra Lite Clay
3.Machine polish abrasion choice is dependant upon condition of paint surface
4.Machine polish 1-
5.Machine polish 2- Optimum Polish
6.Machine polish 3- Optimum Poli-Seal (One step polish and sealant)
7.Chemical cleaner- 1:1 solution Distilled water / Isopropyl Alcohol
8.Paint Cleaner – Zaino Z-AIO or Klasse All-In-One
9.Polymer Sealant – JEFFS Werkstatt Acrylic Jett with Trigger Sprayer
10.Carnauba Wax – Collinite 845
11.Quick detailer (QD) or Booster spray- JEFFS Werkstatt Acrylic Glos
12.Glass Surface Cleaner – Stoner’s Invisible Glass
13.Safe Solvent – Stoner’s Tarminator
Tools List
Fireman’s Hose Nozzle –
Five Gallon Buckets (with Grit Guards) - http://www.autogeek.net
1-Waffle Weave drying towels –http//:www.autopia.net
2- Sheepskin Washing mitts – http://www.autogeek.net
2-Cotton Towels - http://www.dftowel.com/
Lake County 6.5-inch CCS Foam Pads
1-Polish Cutting Pad (*Yellow)
2-Polish / Light Cutting Pad (*Orange)
1 –Heavy Polishing (*Green)
3 or 4-Polish / Waxing Pad (*White)
1or 2-Finessing Pad (*Black)
1or 2 Finishing Pad (* Blue)
1-5-inch Flexible Urethane Backing Plate
Porter-Cable 7424 random orbital buffer
If you gave this list to 20 experinced detailer's you get 25 different answers as far as car care products, but this may serve as a starting point.
I hope this helps
Last edited by TOGWT; 03-21-2007 at 03:22 PM.
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