tonester

iTrader: (1)

I've had my NBP TL for about 6 months now and I've noticed there are weird spots/stains on the lip spoiler and the side mirror housing. These are very stubborn stains that would not come off even after a wash & clay. The stains are only noticeable only from an angle. Have anyone else here notice this problem on their TL? I'm guessing this problem only occurs on painted plastic parts and not on the actual body of the car. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to remove this?

any help is appreciated.

thanks

TOGWT

Water Spots:
There are two categories of water spots;
Stage One Corrosion [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]

Stage Two Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]

a)Surface water spots- (Stage One Corrosion) alkaline watermarks (water spots) consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline

b) Below surface (etched) acidic spots- (Stage Two Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more then one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks my require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them (A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system (http:// www.autoint.com) (See also Industrial fall out (IFO) Acid rain and Reactivity)

If the paint can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately.

Knowledge - [We know a subject] [We know where to find information on it] the most highly valued; [knowledge that is both held and shared]

tonester

iTrader: (1)

here are the pics of my problem:





as you can see, the spots/stains can only be seen at an angle, unlike regular water spots. The spots are on the entire lip spoiler.

Mach30SiR

theres a few thigns you can try. Vinigar ( i believe distilled white - someone else chime in please) clay, or polish should take care of that.

TOGWT

Removing surface (Stage One Corrosion) –
Methodology
•Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
•Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)
•Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;
a) Use a 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)
b) Try 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.
Allow chemical solution sufficient dwell time (5-10 minutes)
•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the surface
•Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface
•Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
•If any `water marks' remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in 1b)

tonester

iTrader: (1)

cool guys, thank you for your suggestions. I'm going to pick up some Meguiars Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner tomorrow and give it a shot.

tonester

iTrader: (1)

so i tried both the Paint cleaner and ScratchX this weekend on the spoiler, along w/ some 50/50 distilled vinegar/water solution, the stains did not go away. I think upon closer inspeciton of the spoiler, the stains look like they were a little etched into the clearcoat. How did this happened? Why did it not happen to the rest of the car's paint? Is the paint process on plastic parts on a TL that different from the rest of the car's body?

If someone out there who also own a NBP TL, can you check your deck lid spoiler or your side mirror housing to see if you also have these stains? I live in So. Cal, so we don't get much acid rain here. I'm usually pretty anal about cleaning my car anyway whenever I see any type of tree sap or hard water marks on the car.

thanks

BuLtL00

Hey man i feel your pain.I have the same spots all over my car and they are result of the sprinkler system in my condo complex.I have tried a lot of products but with no result.I was going to open a new thread with askin how can i clean those but since you have the same problem i will just stick here.My spots are prety stuborn and are not comming off,damn!Guys we need help with this matter!Thanks

TOGWT

b) Below surface (etched) acidic spots- (Stage Two Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more then one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates.

1b) Removing etched below surface (Stage Two Corrosion)-
Methodology
•These can be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits
•Then using a machine polish ( Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound, Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One ) and a cutting (LC Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4-5.0 ) to level the surface (use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive set-up)
•Work on a very small area at a time (2-foot x 2-foot) until the polish has run out
•Repeat this process two or three times, as necessary
•Reapply surface protection once spots have been removed.
•If none of the above methods remove the etched water spots consider wet-sanding the paint finish

Knowledge; [ability to correctly diagnosis problems] [then utilizing appropriate methodologies and products]

tonester

iTrader: (1)

ok guys, I was able to finally remedy my problem. I showed it to a detailer friend of mine and he was able to get them out w/ a PC. After looking at the problem, he concluded that the clearcoat on the painted plastic parts of my car must've been softer than the rest of the body. Since my car was purchased during the rainy months earlier this year, the water spots from the rain must've sat on those areas and slowly etched my clearcoat.

I also used ScratchX by hand on the side mirror housing that also had the etching. It worked out pretty well.

Here are pics of my deck lid spoiler before/after using the PC

pmptx

Congrats, that is a night/day difference. Looks great