Originally Posted by carcar

I guess I can't edit my message?

In reference to the original post: polymers are not acrylic. Acrylic and polymer are two different substances. Polymer sealant is not plastic either!

Just a note: Griot's products are quite pricey and are no better than anything else I've seen.

If you just got a new car, you should detail it. However, I would suggest you look at your car in the sunlight before heading straight to the Zaino. The prep step is important (and by prep I don't mean clay and Dawn wash as implied by Zaino instructions). Many many many cars come detailed when you take delivery of them (new and used cars alike), and lots of the dealers are not experienced/don't use the best process for detailing.

Here is what a dealer did to this TSX. It is 18 months of "abuse" by various detailers at the Acura and Toyota dealer. A fellow Autopia detailed this (GSRstilez) and the turn around was great, but the before pictures are horrendous, and show the importance of taking care of your car (and not having it detailed by the dealer at all costs). (Great turnaround Sean "GSRstilez!)



So before laying on the Zaino, make sure to wash, clay, AND use a proper polish or paint cleaner (by hand or PC, depending on severity) to lay down a really nice surface swirl-free before going to your sealant of choice (which seems to be Zaino Zaino Zaino Zaino in mass quantities).

After


The process used by Sean involved in restoring this finish was the use of a rotary polisher and wool buffing pad (a rare occurance, but it was so bad), followed by foam cutting and polishing pads with Menzerna Polishes, topped with Poorboy's EX sealant.

Originally Posted by srenitynow

Has anyone tried "Glare" auto detailing products? http://www.autopolish.net/

Originally Posted by vpat25

I'm poor and don't really want to spend too much.

So here's my plan, I'm going to wash the car with some cheap blue car wash soap.

Then clay it with some 10 dollar claybar I got from autozone.

And then use 2 coats of Nu-Finish once a year polish (I think its a polymer)

And then use turtle carnauba wax hard shell shit to top it all off.

Tips?

Originally Posted by vpat25

Thanks for the help guys, and I'll let you guys know how it went.

Originally Posted by vasu

Questions about Clay

What is this clay stuff I keep hearing about?
Over time, particles can embed themselves in the porous surface of your car paint. These particles are more commonly referred to as environmental fallout and can include sulfur, metal filings, and pollen, dust and soot. Since these particles are embedded in the paint, a mere washing will not remove them. However, a product such as clay or paint prep will be able to. Clay works by rolling over the paint with a lubricant and literally sticking to the particle and pulling it out. Paint preps work by dissolving it out so that it can be removed with cloth.

How will I know if I need to clay my car?
Use a plastic food service glove (clear cellophane type) or if you can't find one you can use clear saran-wrap. Put the glove on, or wrap you finger in 1 layer of saran wrap. If the paint feels gritty to the touch after a washing, then it's time to clay.

How do I clay my car?
Think of claying the car like shaving. The clay bar is your razor, the embedded particles are the hair, and soapy water or a quick detail spray is like your shaving cream. In fact it's almost exactly like that. Spray the lubricant (soapy water or detailing spray) on a freshly dawn-washed car, and then wipe with a little pressure, the clay bar over the paint. The lubricant is so the clay wont stick to the paint completely, and when you wipe it over the paint the clay bar will pick up embeded particles while leaving the paint intact. Wipe up any excess fluid on the paint with a micro fiber cloth. (answer to: http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show...=5262#post5262)

Is using a clay bar worth the time and effort?
Use a clay bar or paint prep product. There is a lot of stuff bonded to a car's paint surface that you wont be able to see. Without removing this debris, the polymer or wax will not be able to bond, and this is crucial for the first coat of protectant. I recommend claying/prepping at least twice a year, or as needed.

Should there be any sticking?
If the clay bar is sticking to the paint at all, or it feels like it's catching on somethng, then you need more lubricant. Spray more (either soapy water or detail spray) and try again, it shouldn't stick any more.

ssm_tsx also suggests spraying some of the lubricant on your fingers to keep the clay from sticking to you.

Do clay bars scratch the paint?
It is possible to scratch the paint if you do not use the clay bar properly. You must fold or knead the clay a bit as you use it so that you get a fresh and unused piece of clay. The best way to do it is to use a knife or piece of string and slice away a thin layer of the clay as it gets too dirty.

Will claying the car remove rust and 4-way protection offered by Acura?
No, it will leave the protection intact as it's applied during the paint process.

Originally Posted by underst8

OK, never really detailed a car from start to finish before...usually just wash and a wax every once in a while but I want to start on the path to doing it right. I have read lots of forum posts but just want a simple question answered I cannot seem to find a clear answer to: what is the correct order to completely do the exterior of a car from start to finish? This is what I think is correct - please tell me if it is not then which is the correct order...

1) Dish Soap wash to remove all old wax and sealant.


2) Tar and Bug removal/grime removal.

2) clay bar

4) Swirl remover and other paint treatments. [

3) Re-Wash with non-waxing car wash. Not necessary and comes down to a personal choice.

5) Sealant - 1 or 2 applications several hours apart.

6) Polish

7) Wax.

8) Show it off to jealous friends.

Did I get it right? My plans for the weekend are dependent on this knowledge!

Originally Posted by underst8

Hey thanks a lot guys! Can't wait to give my baby the treatment...shes black and I don't think it's been detailed it's whole life.

exceldetail - I was looking around your site and liked the look of the poorboy products. Would the various items they manufacture be good choices for all of the steps above or can you recommend anything in particular I should look elsewhere for?

Originally Posted by Denverdave

Ok, I have read thru the wash and wax section and received my order from Zaino brothers. I tried the clay on my 1995 Toyota Camry since I've never used clay before. (and since my TL Type S is still in transit).

Not sure if I'm doing something wrong but my experience with the clay bar brings up a few questions...

I washed the car with Dawn.

I followed the Zaino instructions, used half a bar of clay, mixed their soap with some water in a spray bottle and went to work.

The clay bar was sufficiently lubricated on the car surface but kept sticking to my hands. I kept flipping the clay to try keep it from sticking to my hand.

I kept kneading the clay as it flattened out and it kept flaking apart.

Any ideas why this was happening? Did I use too much soap with too little water? Anyone have this experience? Any help would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by AlanW

Or, are you saying apply a coat, buff when dry, then reapply another coat in 24 hours?

Originally Posted by sleepersho

From the original post- Whats wrong with using 'buffing compounds'?
Why would they eat at the clear coat? I know they're meant to cut- which is how they remove sanding scratches, but why would they destroy the paint?

Originally Posted by whittles

what would you use to remove a scratch in the paint?

Originally Posted by vasu

Personal Cleaning Process


Twice a year I do my hardcore detailing process. This is a 3 day process, and I'm lucky that I have a garage to do it in. I'll do this in June (right after spring finals) and in December (right after Fall finals). I'll use a weekend example, so friday saturday sunday.

Bi-Annual Detailing Processes

1. Wash car with Dawn Dishwashing Soap
2. Dry car with combination of The California Water Blade and Microfiber clothes . Both available at any Pep-Boys
3. Now that the paint is clean and dry, it's time to prep it. I use whatever clay bar I can find at Pep-Boys. Usually it's Mothers, there's also ClayMagic, Zaino also makes a great one from what I hear but cannot personally confirm. If I see an area of oxidation I use the FF Paint-Prep on it. It's also good at removing stubborn crap that might of gotten on the paint.
4. Friday at 5pm I'll apply the first coat of FF Polish (it's called a polish just because polymer confuses people). I'll let this sit on the car for 24 hours.
5. Saturday at around 5pm, I'll take it off. Since I'm slow and like to take breaks, I'll put the next coat on a little after 7 and be done by 8.
6. At 8am on Sunday I'll take that 2nd coat off and around 10am I'll put the 3rd coat on. I'll take this off that afternoon at 4pm. I'll spend a little extra time buffing with this last coat just to get a great shine.
7. I will then spend the next couple hours doing the same to my wheels (brake dust comes off easier from a protected wheel), headlights and tail lights. I don't do a 24 hour coat, maybe just a 1hr coat.
8. I use Stoner's Invisible Glass, and then RainX the windows and glass and mirrors. I also apply RainX Anti-Fog to the inside.
9. I use Finish First Interior Protectant with Lanolin on all the interior plastics and vinyls. I also use this on the plastic and rubber on the outside (the very bottom of the car , splash guards and any rubber strips and seals).
10. I will use Zymol Field Glaze detailing spray to get that extra bit of shine and get the "wet" carnuba look.
11. Lastly I run some Lysol spray through the air intake for the air conditioner at the base of the windshield, with the AC on. This helps to keep it free of bacteria, mildew, mold, spores, etc.

Regular Maintainence Schedule

1. Wash the car with the Finish First Wash and Conditioner
2. Dry with Water Blade/Microfiber
3. Spray on and buff to shine with Zymol Field Glaze quick detailing spray.
4. Wipe headlights/tail lights/windows and wheels clean. ( I just do a quick job)

I can do the maintainence part in about an hour, which isn't much time to spend every weekend or every other weekend to keep your car looking great.

So now that you know why you should use them and how I personally use them, here are answers to your most common questions about them: