TL-S leather treatment
08-14-2011, 09:43 PM
#1
Cruisin'
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TL-S leather treatment
so i'm about to pull the trigger on a purchase on a 2008 nbp tl-s 6sp 24k miles. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...standard=false
everything is perfect except the leather seems a bit worn out.
i've seen worn out leather treated on the tl here: http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-pearl-part-3/
but wat bout on wrinkled, stretched leather?
everything is perfect except the leather seems a bit worn out.
i've seen worn out leather treated on the tl here: http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-pearl-part-3/
but wat bout on wrinkled, stretched leather?
08-14-2011, 10:42 PM
#3
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Wahs & Wax is a better place for this I think
And yeah, those seats look kind of beat, especially with only 25k miles.
And yeah, those seats look kind of beat, especially with only 25k miles.
08-15-2011, 12:52 AM
#4
Cruisin'
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im havin it shipped to colorado so im tryna make it worth it
08-15-2011, 02:59 AM
#6
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Finished leather is flexible and will stretch and wrinkle over time, regular cleaning with a water-based product will keep finished leather hydrated and supple.
Finish leather Cleaning / Care
CliffNotes® Version
Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased the type of leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi stratum covering over the leather hide; the top strata is the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life of finished leather, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation
An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.
Identifying characteristics - this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.
The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface
Absorbency rate -Low
(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) especially on aniline or ventilated seats. Always apply product to an applicator not the finished leather surface. If you spray a cleaning product directly to the surface it will ‘spot / streak clean’ certain areas
(b) Hydrated - use aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. A regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to condition and / or hydrate finished leather, this should be done on a regular basis.
(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.
Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks.
Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable UV-B protection (especially in a convertible)
(d) Patina(softness) - used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the finished leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the softness to hard finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll down the windows. Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces.
The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation.
Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
Finish leather Cleaning / Care
CliffNotes® Version
Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased the type of leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi stratum covering over the leather hide; the top strata is the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life of finished leather, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation
An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.
Identifying characteristics - this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.
The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface
Absorbency rate -Low
(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) especially on aniline or ventilated seats. Always apply product to an applicator not the finished leather surface. If you spray a cleaning product directly to the surface it will ‘spot / streak clean’ certain areas
(b) Hydrated - use aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. A regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to condition and / or hydrate finished leather, this should be done on a regular basis.
(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.
Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks.
Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable UV-B protection (especially in a convertible)
(d) Patina(softness) - used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the finished leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the softness to hard finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll down the windows. Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces.
The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation.
Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
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