Time to step my game up to a Rotary....
07-29-2006, 04:25 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Time to step my game up to a Rotary....
I enjoyed my PC for over a year now but think i need more of a challenge.
Im thinking of picking up this http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...htm?E+coastest
What ya think?
Im thinking of picking up this http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...htm?E+coastest
What ya think?
07-31-2006, 05:38 PM
#4
teh Senior Instigator
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if you just want to "try" look into this cheap one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623
If I wasn't a :stoner: i'd be all over a rotary
However, I think i'm at the point where I need to step up too. With that said, I haven't touched my orbital in like 5 months 
Gonna break it out in the next week or so though.
If I wasn't a :stoner: i'd be all over a rotary
However, I think i'm at the point where I need to step up too. With that said, I haven't touched my orbital in like 5 months Gonna break it out in the next week or so though.
07-31-2006, 06:20 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
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I've used the Hitachi, Dewalt and Makita; my fav is the Makita with the HItachi a close second. Why? The Makita is the heaviest; you would think that would mean it would be down low on the list but I actually like the heft, and how you can guide it with no pressure whatsoever and get results. The Dewalt being the lightest (by a lot) really left it feeling more like a toy; had to actually apply pressure and I didn't like that. The Hitachi is a nice in between; and it has the best warranty by far.
You're going to love moving to a rotary either way; people are way more freaking out about them then they need to be. I mean, ya they require more skill than PC and yes there is a higher risk of damage - but I think it's largely overstated online. Enjoy!
You're going to love moving to a rotary either way; people are way more freaking out about them then they need to be. I mean, ya they require more skill than PC and yes there is a higher risk of damage - but I think it's largely overstated online. Enjoy!
07-31-2006, 08:54 PM
#6
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by CLpower
if you just want to "try" look into this cheap one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623
If I wasn't a :stoner: i'd be all over a rotary However, I think i'm at the point where I need to step up too. With that said, I haven't touched my orbital in like 5 months
Gonna break it out in the next week or so though.
If I wasn't a :stoner: i'd be all over a rotary
However, I think i'm at the point where I need to step up too. With that said, I haven't touched my orbital in like 5 months Gonna break it out in the next week or so though.
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08-01-2006, 04:19 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
So i been reading up on the rotarys... do i have to always ta.pe up my trim and door handles when doing my car?
Should i assume not to use a rotary when applying just a coat of wax? Should i keep my PC for jobs like that?
Should i assume not to use a rotary when applying just a coat of wax? Should i keep my PC for jobs like that?
08-01-2006, 07:42 AM
#9
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Crazy Sellout
So i been reading up on the rotarys... do i have to always ta.pe up my trim and door handles when doing my car?
Should i assume not to use a rotary when applying just a coat of wax? Should i keep my PC for jobs like that?
Should i assume not to use a rotary when applying just a coat of wax? Should i keep my PC for jobs like that?
And no, you do not want to apply waxes with the rotary; keep the PC around for that.
08-01-2006, 08:25 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
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You can, but why would you? If you make one wrong move you'll put a hologram in the paint; so why not just grab a PC (provided you have one, which he does) and do it stress free, or do it by hand? If you're in a hurry sure, use the rotary - I just wouldn't.
08-01-2006, 09:09 PM
#12
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by JackieO
You can, but why would you? If you make one wrong move you'll put a hologram in the paint; so why not just grab a PC (provided you have one, which he does) and do it stress free, or do it by hand? If you're in a hurry sure, use the rotary - I just wouldn't.
08-11-2006, 03:59 PM
#13
Cajun Gumbo Man
I think it was CLPower who recommended the Porter PC 24xx model I bought and it great !
I also use it to apply Zaino and remove it.
How does this one compare to the other brands mentioned?
I also use it to apply Zaino and remove it.
How does this one compare to the other brands mentioned?
08-14-2006, 09:51 AM
#15
Cajun Gumbo Man
Its called "orbital" and it does spin, just will not burn your paint job if pressed too hard......
08-14-2006, 11:42 AM
#16
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Jesal, why do you feel the need to buy a rotary? How often are you using an abrasive on the car? Unless you are a hardcore detailer and are doing a lot of cars, you're just throwing money down the drain.
08-14-2006, 12:04 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Well last year the local audi club wanted me to detail their cars. After doing 3 of them i got pissed off because of the clearcoat on them.
I think with a rotary i could do more details and actually be happy with the results with Audi cars. The PC just couldnt do the job with how bad their cars were. I hate not being made to get most swirls out so i quit doing them.
Plus after 3 years of ownership, im starting to get some light swirls on my trunk lid and hood.
I think with a rotary i could do more details and actually be happy with the results with Audi cars. The PC just couldnt do the job with how bad their cars were. I hate not being made to get most swirls out so i quit doing them.
Plus after 3 years of ownership, im starting to get some light swirls on my trunk lid and hood.
08-14-2006, 12:17 PM
#19
Cajun Gumbo Man
Orbital units today are MUCH better than their predicessors. Rotaries are for "Pros", not folks like most of us. You can really screw up your paint job if you don't know what you are doing with "Rotaries". In fact I was cleaning out my garage and came across a new Rotary(amongst other things) I bought and never used!
08-14-2006, 02:06 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
Maybe it's time to look at a better abrasive/pad combo. What are you currently using to remove the swirls?
Orange pad with Mezarra IIP (sp?)
I have no issues with any other car make, just audi clearcoat is just too hard that a PC cant get the swirls out. Very common.
Just gotta make sure the rotary is always moving. Thats all.
Last edited by Crazy Bimmer; 08-14-2006 at 02:08 PM.
08-14-2006, 04:14 PM
#23
Just dial 1911
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Originally Posted by Crazy Sellout
Well the one you have isnt a rotary, its a porter cable.
Rotary spins, the PC more or less vibrates more.
Rotary spins, the PC more or less vibrates more.
http://www.autogeek.net/poca747po.html
08-14-2006, 05:22 PM
#24
Burning Brakes
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Audi, Mercedes, Corvettes, a few other GMs, and of course ceramiclear all laugh in the face of the 7424. Don't get me wrong, I love that little guy; I still use it on probably 75% of the cars I detail - but a rotary is an invluable tool. It not only corrects more defects but works much, much faster. Yes, there is a higher risk, however once you get some experience it is really a non-issue.
08-15-2006, 08:31 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by Crazy Sellout
^ Thank you!
People trying to act like i dont know what im doing with the PC.
PSSH.
People trying to act like i dont know what im doing with the PC.
PSSH.
No acting here. Just waiting for the first post from you complaining about all the holograms in your paint.
08-15-2006, 02:01 PM
#28
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Thread Starter
Come on now, you think i would practice on my car?
My moms beat up 98 altima is what ill work on first. I no dummy.
For those who have tried the rotarys have nothing but praise for it.
My moms beat up 98 altima is what ill work on first. I no dummy.
For those who have tried the rotarys have nothing but praise for it.
08-15-2006, 02:09 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
No acting here. Just waiting for the first post from you complaining about all the holograms in your paint.
You know i was thinking about one of the first posts you ever made to me.
I first got my TL-S and posted pics after i washed and waxed it. You said somthing about how it wont ever look that good after 3 years.
Never had faith in me.
Then again my 3 year Audi looks the same as the first day i got it. (minus the rock chips in front)
As for the rotary, i dont expect me to be a pro as soon as I get it. I know i will have to practice.
Last edited by Crazy Bimmer; 08-15-2006 at 02:12 PM.
02-04-2007, 11:34 AM
#32
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Just like a ROB it takes practice (and practice Oh! and more practice) correct methodology and common sense, how hard can it be; I can use it
Rotary Polisher:
A polishing machine (Porter-Cable 7428) that has a direct-drive with selectable speed control that maintains a constant speed under varying loads conditions. Used mainly by body repair / paint shops or very experienced detailer's to rectify more serious paint film surface imperfections using a Velcro baking plate, foam pads of varying coarseness and an abrasive compound or polish to remove swirl marks, scratches and paint defects, using their high (revolution) speed and friction heat to enable compounds to abrade the paint film surface that require more power /speed than a random orbital buffer could provide. (See also Section 13 HS Rotary Polisher)
Common mistakes
The most common rotary operator error is not allowing sufficient time for the diminishing abrasives to break down, adding surface imperfections instead of properly removing the existing ones.
1. Diminishing abrasives- you need to allow the abrasives to break down (diminish) the range is; remove defects (compound) polish, burnish the surface to create a shine. If you do not allow the abrasives to break down you may impart surface marring, holograms or worse. The point at which a polish is fully broken down comes with experience but a good guide is when the polish has become clear and can easily be wiped off.
2. Swirls are usually caused d by using an aggressive polish without breaking down the diminishing abrasives
properly, or you may have used too much polish or it may have dried. To remove spritz the pad with a quick detailer or distilled water (do not add further polish) and re-polish using the polish left on the pad.
3. ‘Buffer hop’ is when the rotary jumps across the paints surface usually due to insufficient polish/lubrication and as the foam pad grips the paint it jumps. Try spreading the polish more evenly across the pad, add more polish, distilled water or quick detailer (QD)
Using a Sliding Scale 600-900-1200 rpm- commence by setting the speed to 600 rpm, then adjust to 900rpm culminating at 1200rpm then descend to 900rpm and finish at 600rpm. 1200 rpm is where most of the paint surface defects will be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms, etc) by descending the sliding scale (1200-900-600rpm) you will remove these and any other minor defects
(See also Compounding / Polishing)
Rotary Polisher:
A polishing machine (Porter-Cable 7428) that has a direct-drive with selectable speed control that maintains a constant speed under varying loads conditions. Used mainly by body repair / paint shops or very experienced detailer's to rectify more serious paint film surface imperfections using a Velcro baking plate, foam pads of varying coarseness and an abrasive compound or polish to remove swirl marks, scratches and paint defects, using their high (revolution) speed and friction heat to enable compounds to abrade the paint film surface that require more power /speed than a random orbital buffer could provide. (See also Section 13 HS Rotary Polisher)
Common mistakes
The most common rotary operator error is not allowing sufficient time for the diminishing abrasives to break down, adding surface imperfections instead of properly removing the existing ones.
1. Diminishing abrasives- you need to allow the abrasives to break down (diminish) the range is; remove defects (compound) polish, burnish the surface to create a shine. If you do not allow the abrasives to break down you may impart surface marring, holograms or worse. The point at which a polish is fully broken down comes with experience but a good guide is when the polish has become clear and can easily be wiped off.
2. Swirls are usually caused d by using an aggressive polish without breaking down the diminishing abrasives
properly, or you may have used too much polish or it may have dried. To remove spritz the pad with a quick detailer or distilled water (do not add further polish) and re-polish using the polish left on the pad.
3. ‘Buffer hop’ is when the rotary jumps across the paints surface usually due to insufficient polish/lubrication and as the foam pad grips the paint it jumps. Try spreading the polish more evenly across the pad, add more polish, distilled water or quick detailer (QD)
Using a Sliding Scale 600-900-1200 rpm- commence by setting the speed to 600 rpm, then adjust to 900rpm culminating at 1200rpm then descend to 900rpm and finish at 600rpm. 1200 rpm is where most of the paint surface defects will be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms, etc) by descending the sliding scale (1200-900-600rpm) you will remove these and any other minor defects
(See also Compounding / Polishing)
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