So I parked under a superglue tree. . .
04-19-2010, 12:25 PM
#1
So I parked under a superglue tree. . .
What's your magic formula for tree sap? I've already tried the sap remover from Napa. Didn't do jack. Tried the claybar on the smaller spots. Sorta worked, but some of it is still there. What would you do next? I'm hoping to avoid having to get it professionally detailed.
04-19-2010, 12:53 PM
#2
Racer
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Stoner makes a product called Xenit and it is the best all purpose cleaner I have ever used. It smells like oranges and does wonders to take off debris like oil, tree sap, bugs and tar from your finish. Just be sure to wash/wax after using it because it will also remove the wax from your finish leaving it unproctected.
04-19-2010, 01:32 PM
#4
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This'll do better (I hope) in Wash & Wax.
04-19-2010, 02:22 PM
#6
takin care of Business in
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^^^ doesnt do shit....
am in KC and i got bug stains doing city driving
and i parked under a friggin glue dripping tree as well....and tried bug and tar remover and nothing came off....
gotta try other products today !!!
am in KC and i got bug stains doing city driving
and i parked under a friggin glue dripping tree as well....and tried bug and tar remover and nothing came off....
gotta try other products today !!!
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04-19-2010, 04:16 PM
#8
OK. WD-40, Stoners, and turpentine. Sounds like a drug addict's shopping list 
I'll try 'em tonight and report back. Thanks guys!
Oh, and Swoosh is right. The bug& tar remover doesn't dissolve anything except the sponge.
I'll try 'em tonight and report back. Thanks guys!Oh, and Swoosh is right. The bug& tar remover doesn't dissolve anything except the sponge.
04-20-2010, 04:39 AM
#9
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Tree resin (sap)
[: the resin produced by most plants is a viscous liquid, composed mainly of volatile fluid terpenes, with lesser components of dissolved non-volatile solids which make resin thick and sticky. Some resins also contain a high proportion of resin acids. Some resins when soft are known as 'oleo-resins', and when containing benzoic acid or cinnamic acid they are called balsams] [1]
Appears like a dark brown/ rust red coloured raised surface mark, some of the most common resinous tree sap types are: White Pine, Ponderosa Pine, Walnut (also secretes an oily residue) Maple, Oak, Popular, and Blue Spruce, none of which are water soluble, the acidic content of the sap will etch the paint surface; causing a concave surface.
A lot depends upon the type of sap, which is actually an acidic resin emitted from the tree, the resin deposits can be removed by- Isopropyl alcohol (IPA), a safe solvent (Stoner’s Tarminator®) or turpentine, which is made from tree resins, in severe cases it can be used to break down the resin in tree sap, use as a last resort only and use sparingly and do not rub hard and give it some time to work and then use detailer’s clay.
Once you remove the sap deposits, the paint or clear may be cracked, which may entail some expensive refinishing. Factors as to the amount of time it takes to remove sap and what damage it has caused are dependent on temperature and time the sap has been on the paint surface. Be careful and take your time removing it, remember always let the products do the work for you.
For tree sap that has hardened, carefully scrape the top of the spot off with a plastic razor blade to expose the softer sap inside. The remaining sap can usually be removed by soaking with Isopropyl Alcohol (or Stoner’s Tarminator®) wet the area with the product by soaking a micro fibre towel and allows it to remain on the surface for 3-5 minutes, then wipe with soft dry towel.
Apply Zaino’s ZPC Fusion with a foam applicator and then remove residue or soak a towel with the solvent placing it over the sap and let soak for 10-minutes, repeat in order for the solvents to break down the sap, once it’s removed re-apply sealant / wax protection of your choice. If the paint has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection
Most organic waxes (Carnauba) are more resistant to environmental hazards then synthetics, although an Acrylic polymer does offers limited resistance. But the best way to avoid clear coat etching is too remove the environmental debris as soon as it’s noticed. Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable non-organic wax product, and but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface.
Notes
1. Use caution if you use WD-40 for sap removal, as it contains hydrocarbon-based (aliphatic) solvents, which may compromise the integrity of the clear coat causing it to occlude (clouding or yellowing).
2. Avoid using a QD sprays to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated.
3. If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish, then apply a paint protection
An extract from “Environmental Pollutants ” one of a series of 119 unbiased “The Science of Detailing” technical papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet
Chances are you'll learn something about detailing if you read any of these; although these articles will not improve your detailing skills, lead to a successful business or change your life. Applying what you learn from it, however, will. That's where your commitment comes in - you need to make a commitment to yourself right now that you will take action on what you learn.
[: the resin produced by most plants is a viscous liquid, composed mainly of volatile fluid terpenes, with lesser components of dissolved non-volatile solids which make resin thick and sticky. Some resins also contain a high proportion of resin acids. Some resins when soft are known as 'oleo-resins', and when containing benzoic acid or cinnamic acid they are called balsams] [1]
Appears like a dark brown/ rust red coloured raised surface mark, some of the most common resinous tree sap types are: White Pine, Ponderosa Pine, Walnut (also secretes an oily residue) Maple, Oak, Popular, and Blue Spruce, none of which are water soluble, the acidic content of the sap will etch the paint surface; causing a concave surface.
A lot depends upon the type of sap, which is actually an acidic resin emitted from the tree, the resin deposits can be removed by- Isopropyl alcohol (IPA), a safe solvent (Stoner’s Tarminator®) or turpentine, which is made from tree resins, in severe cases it can be used to break down the resin in tree sap, use as a last resort only and use sparingly and do not rub hard and give it some time to work and then use detailer’s clay.
Once you remove the sap deposits, the paint or clear may be cracked, which may entail some expensive refinishing. Factors as to the amount of time it takes to remove sap and what damage it has caused are dependent on temperature and time the sap has been on the paint surface. Be careful and take your time removing it, remember always let the products do the work for you.
For tree sap that has hardened, carefully scrape the top of the spot off with a plastic razor blade to expose the softer sap inside. The remaining sap can usually be removed by soaking with Isopropyl Alcohol (or Stoner’s Tarminator®) wet the area with the product by soaking a micro fibre towel and allows it to remain on the surface for 3-5 minutes, then wipe with soft dry towel.
Apply Zaino’s ZPC Fusion with a foam applicator and then remove residue or soak a towel with the solvent placing it over the sap and let soak for 10-minutes, repeat in order for the solvents to break down the sap, once it’s removed re-apply sealant / wax protection of your choice. If the paint has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection
Most organic waxes (Carnauba) are more resistant to environmental hazards then synthetics, although an Acrylic polymer does offers limited resistance. But the best way to avoid clear coat etching is too remove the environmental debris as soon as it’s noticed. Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable non-organic wax product, and but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface.
Notes
1. Use caution if you use WD-40 for sap removal, as it contains hydrocarbon-based (aliphatic) solvents, which may compromise the integrity of the clear coat causing it to occlude (clouding or yellowing).
2. Avoid using a QD sprays to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated.
3. If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish, then apply a paint protection
An extract from “Environmental Pollutants ” one of a series of 119 unbiased “The Science of Detailing” technical papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet
Chances are you'll learn something about detailing if you read any of these; although these articles will not improve your detailing skills, lead to a successful business or change your life. Applying what you learn from it, however, will. That's where your commitment comes in - you need to make a commitment to yourself right now that you will take action on what you learn.
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