Review: CG Glossworkz glaze and 4star UPP
#1
Review: CG Glossworkz glaze and 4star UPP
CG Glossworkz Glaze (applied on silver moon TSX SE)
Ordered this due to hype I've been reading about it. Also, since I love collecting products, why not. Product comes in similar standard bottles that CG uses. It was light blue in color, with a smell I'd distinctly characterize as laundry detergent???
I washed Tori, then a mild clay. Applied GWG via blue pad, speed 2 on PC. After removal, I pulled it out into the sun to inspect. Overall, I didn't notice any difference from EZ Creme I had very few minor marring that I haven't had the chance to correct yet... the cover up it provided was very minimal at best. I'm not saying it's a BAD product, because I LOVE EZ Creme and Blacklight... but I'd say, it was similar in performance to EZ Creme, but blacklight is slicker for sure. Looks wise, hard to tell. Would I use it again? hmmm not sure. Maybe. I ended up putting a coat of blacklight afterwards, then jet seal, then 5050.
Would I recommend the product... eh.... I'd go with Blacklight. It lasts longer, slicker, and I think looks better.
PRO's:
cost
fresh smell
applies easy/removes easy
some swirl filling abilities
CON's:
why use this when you can use blacklight? or EZ creme?
durability (obviously it's a glaze)
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4Star UPP (applied on Kona Blue 5.0)
Why am I reviewing such an old product? Well... I ordered this a couple years ago, when I had a black G35 and and black Altima. I loved it then, but put it aside when I got rid of both vehicles. I ended up using it on my black Odyssey...loved it so much (Again), that I decided to use it on Marilyn's Dark Kona Blue paint. Boy was I glad I did. I forgot how much I love this sealant. My plan was to top it off with Souveran or Fuzion... but it looked so good on its own, I haven't touched it yet. Maybe tomorrow.
Anyways...Marilyn was washed this morning at 6am... then spot clayed. Applied 4Star after. Let sit for 30 minutes, then removed.
It goes on as easy as any other sealant, maybe a bit runnier (make sure you shake really well). Removes easily as well. The only con I would say is it was dustier (not saying a lot, but compared to other sealants) than JetSeal, my other favorite sealant. It was really slick tho...slickest sealant I've used imo. The best part is the look. On dark paints, it just blows it out of the park. 4Star remains one of my favorite sealants.
I can't speak to durability on either since I don't let my LSP's go that long before stripping and reapplying.
PRO's:
slick
easy to apply and remove
unbeatable on black and other dark colors
CON's:
dust
Ordered this due to hype I've been reading about it. Also, since I love collecting products, why not. Product comes in similar standard bottles that CG uses. It was light blue in color, with a smell I'd distinctly characterize as laundry detergent???
I washed Tori, then a mild clay. Applied GWG via blue pad, speed 2 on PC. After removal, I pulled it out into the sun to inspect. Overall, I didn't notice any difference from EZ Creme I had very few minor marring that I haven't had the chance to correct yet... the cover up it provided was very minimal at best. I'm not saying it's a BAD product, because I LOVE EZ Creme and Blacklight... but I'd say, it was similar in performance to EZ Creme, but blacklight is slicker for sure. Looks wise, hard to tell. Would I use it again? hmmm not sure. Maybe. I ended up putting a coat of blacklight afterwards, then jet seal, then 5050.
Would I recommend the product... eh.... I'd go with Blacklight. It lasts longer, slicker, and I think looks better.
PRO's:
cost
fresh smell
applies easy/removes easy
some swirl filling abilities
CON's:
why use this when you can use blacklight? or EZ creme?
durability (obviously it's a glaze)
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4Star UPP (applied on Kona Blue 5.0)
Why am I reviewing such an old product? Well... I ordered this a couple years ago, when I had a black G35 and and black Altima. I loved it then, but put it aside when I got rid of both vehicles. I ended up using it on my black Odyssey...loved it so much (Again), that I decided to use it on Marilyn's Dark Kona Blue paint. Boy was I glad I did. I forgot how much I love this sealant. My plan was to top it off with Souveran or Fuzion... but it looked so good on its own, I haven't touched it yet. Maybe tomorrow.
Anyways...Marilyn was washed this morning at 6am... then spot clayed. Applied 4Star after. Let sit for 30 minutes, then removed.
It goes on as easy as any other sealant, maybe a bit runnier (make sure you shake really well). Removes easily as well. The only con I would say is it was dustier (not saying a lot, but compared to other sealants) than JetSeal, my other favorite sealant. It was really slick tho...slickest sealant I've used imo. The best part is the look. On dark paints, it just blows it out of the park. 4Star remains one of my favorite sealants.
I can't speak to durability on either since I don't let my LSP's go that long before stripping and reapplying.
PRO's:
slick
easy to apply and remove
unbeatable on black and other dark colors
CON's:
dust
#2
Suzuka Master
Nice write ups but can I make a constructive comment .. lets not photoshop the pix .. they all look like the contrast or something is drastically played with .. oversaturated with color.
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Undying Dreams (02-28-2013)
#3
Np... Those are hdr, so obviously edited for sure. I can post the non edited ones too.
Last edited by Integra2TSX; 06-03-2012 at 09:58 AM.
#4
Here you go
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#5
My first Avatar....
Dude...Your Kona looks effin' sweet!
As far as the dusting with the UPP. Patrick....a vendor (former?) here, gave me the tip to apply it VERY sparingly and you will eliminate dusting. I tried it, and sure enough he was right.
Besides, with the molecular structure of the UPP...layers can be added (every 24 hrs) for extra protection and long lasting life. I love it too. I don't use anything else. I don't want to blow my money on everything....except gas.
As far as the dusting with the UPP. Patrick....a vendor (former?) here, gave me the tip to apply it VERY sparingly and you will eliminate dusting. I tried it, and sure enough he was right.
Besides, with the molecular structure of the UPP...layers can be added (every 24 hrs) for extra protection and long lasting life. I love it too. I don't use anything else. I don't want to blow my money on everything....except gas.
#6
Dude...Your Kona looks effin' sweet!
As far as the dusting with the UPP. Patrick....a vendor (former?) here, gave me the tip to apply it VERY sparingly and you will eliminate dusting. I tried it, and sure enough he was right.
Besides, with the molecular structure of the UPP...layers can be added (every 24 hrs) for extra protection and long lasting life. I love it too. I don't use anything else. I don't want to blow my money on everything....except gas.
As far as the dusting with the UPP. Patrick....a vendor (former?) here, gave me the tip to apply it VERY sparingly and you will eliminate dusting. I tried it, and sure enough he was right.
Besides, with the molecular structure of the UPP...layers can be added (every 24 hrs) for extra protection and long lasting life. I love it too. I don't use anything else. I don't want to blow my money on everything....except gas.
Thanks pt...I will try that next time.
P.s. thx for compliments. I need MORE pics of your 2013 lol I love your car.
#7
Suzuka Master
Ya I was wondering about his dusting too because I use UPP all te time and never had dusting.
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#8
the non shopped pics look SO much better
#9
Yep... It's all a matter of opinion. HDR is more artsy. I've done regular shots all my life... trying something more artistic. Lol. Like brochures
Anyways, speaking of UNEDITED. Here's a couple shots of my stang, after I threw on 2 coats of Souveran on top of UPP. This might be my new favorite combo. Better than blacklight and V7.
Walked in the garage and saw these. Grabbed camera, took couple shots, downloaded, uploaded, done. Again 100% UNEDITED. My jaw about dropped. Makes all my handwork worthwhile.
Anyways, speaking of UNEDITED. Here's a couple shots of my stang, after I threw on 2 coats of Souveran on top of UPP. This might be my new favorite combo. Better than blacklight and V7.
Walked in the garage and saw these. Grabbed camera, took couple shots, downloaded, uploaded, done. Again 100% UNEDITED. My jaw about dropped. Makes all my handwork worthwhile.
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Integra2TSX (06-03-2012)
#11
2016 E350 Sport
Fail:
I am with Dale about the HDR pics. No business on a detail forum.
Thumbs Up:
The stang looks gorgeous!!! Did you polish out the stang before adding the UPP and Souveran?
TIP:
Silver and White cars are hard to photograph in bright light. The color just gets washed out in pics. One trick I used with my white Civic was to photograph early morning or at sunset. Position your car with the sun on one side and shade on the other. The low sun will light up the background on the shade side. Photograph the shade side of the car which will reflect the highlighted background.
I am with Dale about the HDR pics. No business on a detail forum.
Thumbs Up:
The stang looks gorgeous!!! Did you polish out the stang before adding the UPP and Souveran?
TIP:
Silver and White cars are hard to photograph in bright light. The color just gets washed out in pics. One trick I used with my white Civic was to photograph early morning or at sunset. Position your car with the sun on one side and shade on the other. The low sun will light up the background on the shade side. Photograph the shade side of the car which will reflect the highlighted background.
#12
Fail:
I am with Dale about the HDR pics. No business on a detail forum.
Thumbs Up:
The stang looks gorgeous!!! Did you polish out the stang before adding the UPP and Souveran?
TIP:
Silver and White cars are hard to photograph in bright light. The color just gets washed out in pics. One trick I used with my white Civic was to photograph early morning or at sunset. Position your car with the sun on one side and shade on the other. The low sun will light up the background on the shade side. Photograph the shade side of the car which will reflect the highlighted background.
I am with Dale about the HDR pics. No business on a detail forum.
Thumbs Up:
The stang looks gorgeous!!! Did you polish out the stang before adding the UPP and Souveran?
TIP:
Silver and White cars are hard to photograph in bright light. The color just gets washed out in pics. One trick I used with my white Civic was to photograph early morning or at sunset. Position your car with the sun on one side and shade on the other. The low sun will light up the background on the shade side. Photograph the shade side of the car which will reflect the highlighted background.
As for the 5.0, yes, Marilyn was polished. All my vehicles must be swirl free . Marilyn was clayed then polished via flex and pc, menzerna power and super finish, variety of pads, all prior to upp and souveran.
Thanks for the tips and the kind words.
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Integra2TSX (06-03-2012)
#14
My first Avatar....
Souveran is a carnuba isn't it? Won't it then prevent adding subsequent coats of UPP?
I think your Kona looks deeper then any other Kona I've seen. Props Man!
You need to provide detailed polishing tips for the Stang paint....which pads...which product...etc. You have it down to a science. :thumbsup.
On a side note. I was polishing My 5.0 today when my backing plate took a dump on me. I have 1/3 of a polished car.
I think your Kona looks deeper then any other Kona I've seen. Props Man!
You need to provide detailed polishing tips for the Stang paint....which pads...which product...etc. You have it down to a science. :thumbsup.
On a side note. I was polishing My 5.0 today when my backing plate took a dump on me. I have 1/3 of a polished car.
Last edited by pttl; 06-03-2012 at 07:43 PM.
#15
nah, but seriously no offense taken. If they don't like it, they don't like it. I do
Souveran is a carnuba isn't it? Won't it then prevent adding subsequent coats of UPP?
I think your Kona looks deeper then any other Kona I've seen. Props Man!
You need to provide detailed polishing tips for the Stang paint....which pads...which product...etc. You have it down to a science. :thumbsup.
On a side note. I was polishing My 5.0 today when my packing plate took a dump on me. I have 1/3 of a polished car.
I think your Kona looks deeper then any other Kona I've seen. Props Man!
You need to provide detailed polishing tips for the Stang paint....which pads...which product...etc. You have it down to a science. :thumbsup.
On a side note. I was polishing My 5.0 today when my packing plate took a dump on me. I have 1/3 of a polished car.
What happened to your backing plate? I've had mine for years! Maybe overtightened? That's ok.. it's cheap. Isn't it like 15 bucks for one?
As far as polishing techniques, sure thing bro. Here's what I do.
Wash and clay obviously... clay until uber uber smooth via sandwich bag test. After you clay a spot, insert your hand into a sandwich bag, run it over the paint. If it feels like glass, you're done. If you feel some resistance, keep claying. Don't worry about marring at this point...you'll buff anyways.
Buffing - I use Menzerna products. I tried all others, and keep coming back to Menzerna. Best balance of ease of use to effectiveness. I use Power Finish on a Orange (heavy swirls) or White (light to med swirls) CCS pad. I don't like using flat foam pads. I like the deeper CCS (closed cellular structure) pads...keeps the working time longer, allowing for more correction without drying.
Pour out enough solution for a 2 x 2 area...about 1 circle's worth of product around the pad. Spread the product around the paint via the PC off. Apply pressure on the PC enough to compress the pad 25% to 50% but no more. Turn on the PC at speed 2 to coat the entire 2 x 2 area. Switch off. Set to speed 5 or 6. Go to town. At least 5 or 6 passes should do. 1 pass is a horizontal or vertical pass, followed by perpendicular passes. Watch your speed. You're better off going slow than fast. 6 passes should take you no more than 2-3minutes. Then the polish is broken down, and ready for wiping off. Inspect the finish. Use 50/50 alcohol and water to wipe down residue and inspect for perfect paint. If not perfect, repeat.
Tadaaaaa! DONE!
Apply glaze or your favorite sealant
Easy right? Just takes time.
Btw, I use my Flex, not PC, for major corrections.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 06-03-2012 at 08:31 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
#16
My first Avatar....
Thanks so much Man!
Pads like these?
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-ccs-pack1.html
Menzerna Polishes like these?
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-intro-kit.html
Just trying to get a system that works.
Why the Flex for "major corrections"?
BTW...you do all of this on top of the clearbra?
Pads like these?
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-ccs-pack1.html
Menzerna Polishes like these?
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-intro-kit.html
Just trying to get a system that works.
Why the Flex for "major corrections"?
BTW...you do all of this on top of the clearbra?
Last edited by pttl; 06-03-2012 at 08:04 PM.
#17
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Beautiful shots.
#18
Thanks so much Man!
Pads like these?
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-ccs-pack1.html
Menzerna Polishes like these?
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-intro-kit.html
Just trying to get a system that works.
Why the Flex for "major corrections"?
BTW...you do all of this on top of the clearbra?
Pads like these?
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-ccs-pack1.html
Menzerna Polishes like these?
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-intro-kit.html
Just trying to get a system that works.
Why the Flex for "major corrections"?
BTW...you do all of this on top of the clearbra?
Yes you are right on the pads. I have both 6.5 and 5.5 inch pads for a 5" backing plate. Get what you're most comfortable with. A 6.5 will be safer but less effective around the edges. A 5.5 will be more effective all around, but less safe by corners and ridges and etc. how confident are you with a buffer?
As for menzerna, go with power finish. It has a longer working time than intensive polish and with more cutting power, and with a better finish. See this chart here:
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-of-germany.html
The flex 3401 vg is my fave for correction because it has the strength of a rotary buffer (quick cuts, so less passes, better finish down), but the safety of a DA (forced rotation - versus a rotary, which can burn paint if not careful). Also, the flex has much less vibration than a counter weight rotation PC. But it also costs twice that of a PC.
Thanks Steve
#20
I don't know why I shelved this product for 2 years. I got caught up in all the hype of new products, I forgot about what works, and works well. This is possibly the best looking sealant for dark paints. Doesn't even need a topper.
Washed odyssey, then coated her in upp, applied via pc. Again, photos are UNEDITED.
#21
My first Avatar....
Nice ad pics for UPP!
You are a brave man...having a black mini-van.
You are a brave man...having a black mini-van.
#22
#23
Keep'n it clean- Orlando
agreed, not to mention the photoshop pics portray a gloss on the paint that is not really there in real life. You can play with the settings in a photo to make your car look like its got superman paint or something... however I love the OP's write up, willingsness to share his findings and is also a CG lover like me! keep it up!
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