Road-Rager 1

It's coming on Spring soon and I'm prepping for my annual TL waxing. My process takes a full weekend and I do it all by hand.

This year I want to possibly cut the time down by using an orbital waxer.

I've been researching them and have found there are many to select from.

I'm reaching out to the forum to obtain personal experiences with orbital waxers. Also, I want to learn which brands to buy and which to stay away from.

Thanx!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the easiest and fool proof machine is the Porter Cable 7424XP.

it wont allow you to burn through paint.

VR1

I've have a 7424XP and have had really good results with it. If you're new to detailing/polishing a dual action is the way to go by far IMO.

AZuser

Griot's Garage orbital.

Same thing as the Porter Cable 7424XP for about the same price, but with the Griot's you get:

- More power (7 amps, 800 watt motor vs 4.5 amps, 500 watt motor)
- Comes with backing plate
- Better warranty (lifetime vs 3 years)

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

since there's more power, it's easier to correct paint with.
or so the youtube videos tell me.


with my PC7424xp, it takes several passes before it corrects the paint to 98%

the griots has a larger learning curve tho.


a beginner should start out with the lowest and safest machine first.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

road rager, watch some youtube videos on both the porter cable and the griots !!!!

SinCity-TL

Love my 7424, have not checked out the Griot's yet but sounds nice. Like Justn said watch the videos and pick the one that looks best to you. Can't go wrong with either.

GivingDetail

I use a 7in Makita Polisher/Sander. It's a really fine peice of equipment that will never fail and last your entire life. Priced at $200, you will have the machine you need as you learn. This one is the best I have ever used and will ever continue to use.

When you do make your purchase make sure the equipment has a dial to adjust the speed via dial for the rpms.
This will help you tweak your learning process.

When you start using buffing/ polishing don't forget to:

1, clean your surface entirely from top to bottom with a heavy degreaser, dilute the degreaser a lot if sun is out at all if your in the garage or its cool and over cast soak that baby down. (Don't need to dilute as much.) Get all the road gunk and tar out of your wheel wells/rims. Using degreaser no dilution. If you use tire acids (wheel brightener).. Always wet the wheel and rim surface,scrub it into suds and rinse wash off immediately after never use in direct sun light*

2, clay bar that sucker from hood to roof to top of trunk, windows to top of doors to middle of doors. Lastly front bumper to rear trunk back/bumper bottom, leave rocker panels for last. That order will saved your clay from picking up impurities that will scratch making more buffing and polishing. Use a fine grade clay bar unless your car is a truck which it's not. Clay bar should always be wet and dipped in your consistantly in your bucket using a little degreaser, with carnauba wash soap.Rinse each panel your working on after your finished claybaring.

3, Wash the car using just carnauba wash soap with a nice lambdwool mitt, microfiber mitts are also fine. Now just dry off completely with your wash chamois. Squeaky clean. At this point you might like the look enough to not buff.

At this point your going to have a clean surface to work on. When buffing and polishing is concerned there are more ways than 100 if not 1000 to do it. Everyone in the world may think they have the best way, but it's always best to keep things slow and simple.

If your interested in a process I use.. Like what products to use and what to do. Let me know, I'll be happy to make another post tomorrow.

Jesstzn

I disagree here ... all a noob has to do is just reduce the speed a bit .. Griots is as safe as the XP.

ulrblitzer

Have Griot's. It's easy to use.

Honestly, I think you mess up more by not understanding pad prep and residue control.