Layering with Different Wax Types?
10-13-2006, 03:42 PM
#1
RAR
Thread Starter
Layering with Different Wax Types?
Currently I use the Klasse combo (AIO + the acryllic glaze) and was wondering if its a good idea to add additional carnuba wax layers later on. I'm aiming for the protection and durability of the acryllic plus the wetness and 'refresh' of a good carnuba (specifically thinking of using some Black Magic) thats easy to apply and remove.
Is this ok? I'm also curious in general about what wax types can be layered, when, and how.
Is this ok? I'm also curious in general about what wax types can be layered, when, and how.
10-13-2006, 06:27 PM
#2
Former Sponsor
Nubas generally cannot be layered (And I dont care what anyone else says) lol.....The componants used to make a carnauba "usable" usually deter its ability to stack atop any previous layer. Or if you consider layering a partial removal of existing + new layer, then so be it.
I think of layering as "stacking'' product material in an attempt to add duration to its protection.
If you wish to add to the SG, I would do so, with, .........SG.
SG provides extreme protection, but lacks in the "wow" dept. And Im thinking that is why your asking the question in the first place. Go for the nuba, but add up to three layers of SG, then do it!
I think of layering as "stacking'' product material in an attempt to add duration to its protection.
If you wish to add to the SG, I would do so, with, .........SG.
SG provides extreme protection, but lacks in the "wow" dept. And Im thinking that is why your asking the question in the first place. Go for the nuba, but add up to three layers of SG, then do it!
10-13-2006, 06:37 PM
#3
RAR
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by exceldetail
Nubas generally cannot be layered (And I dont care what anyone else says) lol.....The componants used to make a carnauba "usable" usually deter its ability to stack atop any previous layer. Or if you consider layering a partial removal of existing + new layer, then so be it.
I think of layering as "stacking'' product material in an attempt to add duration to its protection.
If you wish to add to the SG, I would do so, with, .........SG.
SG provides extreme protection, but lacks in the "wow" dept. And Im thinking that is why your asking the question in the first place. Go for the nuba, but add up to three layers of SG, then do it!
I think of layering as "stacking'' product material in an attempt to add duration to its protection.
If you wish to add to the SG, I would do so, with, .........SG.
SG provides extreme protection, but lacks in the "wow" dept. And Im thinking that is why your asking the question in the first place. Go for the nuba, but add up to three layers of SG, then do it!
10-14-2006, 08:11 AM
#5
The Old Grey Whistle Test
The same applys to Carnauba waxes, the solvents must be allowed to offgas (45 + mins) before applying another coat.
Layering:
I prefer the word ‘film’ as opposed to ‘layer’, a film more accurately describes a thinly applied sealant or wax, were as a layer tends to describe a thicker covering. Some specialty paint protection systems can have subsequent film added to increase protection and paint appearance, systems must cure or cross-link prior to application of subsequent coats. Depending on the product type, cure times vary from a few hours to days.
By applying another product on top of one that has already cross-linked you can increase its density (up to a point) two to four cross-linked (cured) applications are usually considered optimum
One thing that will negate the applied product density is lack of clarity, the base coat (that contains the vehicle’s colour) is covered / protected by a clear coat of urethane paint, which as well as providing protection is clear to enable the paint colour to show through and provide the colour with depth.
Any product applied on top of the clear coat needs to be optically clear (transparent) otherwise both the paint colour and its depth of shine will be muted. One of the problems with ‘layering’ some polymers is that they tend to occlude (become less opaque) as the thickness increases
The carrier system allows the product to fill and level the paint film surface to produce a flat surface (this flat level surface is more pronounced with polymers due to their molecular alignment characteristics).
This level surface optimises the paint film surface's desired optical properties (i.e. surface reflectance, clarity, gloss, and depth of shine)
Wax- two coats to ensure even coverage, a wax cures (hardens when the solvents have vaporised ) usually takes 25-45 minuets then you can apply the second coat (ensure that there are no solvents left by doing a smear test otherwise the solvents in the second coat will remove the first)
Polymers- also contain a mineral or silicone oil, or solvent based carrier system (these may also be in the form of an oil / water emulsion) and by the nature of this product they need to vaporise / dissipate and then its needs to cross-link (this is time dependant (unless a catalyst is added) and is quite separate from the drying process
Solvents / oils provide a lubricant and aid the adherence process by working their way into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the previous `layer' softening it, providing each subsequent applications carrying agent (solvent, oils silicones or emulsion) are not so concentrated that they degrade or remove (as in the case of a cleaner wax) what has been previously applied.
Also be aware that the both the product and the foam pad may be non-abrasive, but application pressure if not kept to an absolute minimum and using use a very light and even pressure, may re-introduce surface marring and/or removal of the previously applied product. (See also Spit Shining)
Layering:
I prefer the word ‘film’ as opposed to ‘layer’, a film more accurately describes a thinly applied sealant or wax, were as a layer tends to describe a thicker covering. Some specialty paint protection systems can have subsequent film added to increase protection and paint appearance, systems must cure or cross-link prior to application of subsequent coats. Depending on the product type, cure times vary from a few hours to days.
By applying another product on top of one that has already cross-linked you can increase its density (up to a point) two to four cross-linked (cured) applications are usually considered optimum
One thing that will negate the applied product density is lack of clarity, the base coat (that contains the vehicle’s colour) is covered / protected by a clear coat of urethane paint, which as well as providing protection is clear to enable the paint colour to show through and provide the colour with depth.
Any product applied on top of the clear coat needs to be optically clear (transparent) otherwise both the paint colour and its depth of shine will be muted. One of the problems with ‘layering’ some polymers is that they tend to occlude (become less opaque) as the thickness increases
The carrier system allows the product to fill and level the paint film surface to produce a flat surface (this flat level surface is more pronounced with polymers due to their molecular alignment characteristics).
This level surface optimises the paint film surface's desired optical properties (i.e. surface reflectance, clarity, gloss, and depth of shine)
Wax- two coats to ensure even coverage, a wax cures (hardens when the solvents have vaporised ) usually takes 25-45 minuets then you can apply the second coat (ensure that there are no solvents left by doing a smear test otherwise the solvents in the second coat will remove the first)
Polymers- also contain a mineral or silicone oil, or solvent based carrier system (these may also be in the form of an oil / water emulsion) and by the nature of this product they need to vaporise / dissipate and then its needs to cross-link (this is time dependant (unless a catalyst is added) and is quite separate from the drying process
Solvents / oils provide a lubricant and aid the adherence process by working their way into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the previous `layer' softening it, providing each subsequent applications carrying agent (solvent, oils silicones or emulsion) are not so concentrated that they degrade or remove (as in the case of a cleaner wax) what has been previously applied.
Also be aware that the both the product and the foam pad may be non-abrasive, but application pressure if not kept to an absolute minimum and using use a very light and even pressure, may re-introduce surface marring and/or removal of the previously applied product. (See also Spit Shining)
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