Detailing some cars this weekend... Polishing Qs
I'm relatively new to polishing cars, I've usually just followed the wash, clay, chemical paint cleaner, sealant/wax routine.
From what I've gathered, polishing is essential to creating that "wet car" look, which is what I'm going for. The cars I'll be detailing this wkend are relatively new, about a year or two old, and kept in good shape. I don't expect to have to buff out any scratches or scuffs, but I was wondering about those light light scratches that you see at certain angles under certain lighting... swirl marks I believe? I just ordered Poorboy's SSR1, would going over the whole car w/ this and a PC be sufficient to remove these light light scratches? Thanks.
From what I've gathered, polishing is essential to creating that "wet car" look, which is what I'm going for. The cars I'll be detailing this wkend are relatively new, about a year or two old, and kept in good shape. I don't expect to have to buff out any scratches or scuffs, but I was wondering about those light light scratches that you see at certain angles under certain lighting... swirl marks I believe? I just ordered Poorboy's SSR1, would going over the whole car w/ this and a PC be sufficient to remove these light light scratches? Thanks.
Poorboys SSR 1 is a good maintenance polish. I dont really think its approved for getting out light swirls in my book, but great for precleaning prior to sealant or Nuba use. Although you may get better results with SSR 1 with a more aggressive pad, SSR 2 is probably where the swirl removal comes to play. What type of pad will you be using?
I agree, you are probably going to need SSR 2 to get rid of the swirls. However, the most useful SSR combo (IMO, and others) is to have SSR 2.5 and SSR 1. Like excel said, SSR 2 can be a good maintenance polish, taking care of light swirls induced from regular washings. By the same token, 2.5 and 1 can offer more versatility if you have to deal with some tougher swirls etc. It really depends on what you will have to deal with, and of course using different pads with whatever product can change results etc.
Last edited by West6MT; Jul 19, 2006 at 11:08 PM.
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I would start with the SR1.0 and see what it does. If that does not cut it, you can jump up to 2 or 2.5. It is my personal opinion that 2.5 is the most suitable for the majority of vehicles, minus those with super soft clearcoat like certain newer Infiniti models.
On the Acura, I had light scratches from the boys at our dealerships giving it "quick" details. I removed them using Menzerna 106FF as they were pretty light. I did that via low speed on the rotary with the Propel light green pad (IIRC). Sure, the random orbital would have done it too but hey, I had just purchased the rotary. I followed the FPII with a 50/50 alcohol mix and then went to Zaino (note: I am not a big Zaino fan but this vehicle is a daily driver).
Here are some pics...
http://www.imagemotorworks.com/scott/acura/
If I did it again, I would probably use Menzerna FPII instead. I just had the 106 sitting around from my ceramiclear car.
-GT
On the Acura, I had light scratches from the boys at our dealerships giving it "quick" details. I removed them using Menzerna 106FF as they were pretty light. I did that via low speed on the rotary with the Propel light green pad (IIRC). Sure, the random orbital would have done it too but hey, I had just purchased the rotary. I followed the FPII with a 50/50 alcohol mix and then went to Zaino (note: I am not a big Zaino fan but this vehicle is a daily driver).
Here are some pics...
http://www.imagemotorworks.com/scott/acura/
If I did it again, I would probably use Menzerna FPII instead. I just had the 106 sitting around from my ceramiclear car.
-GT
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