Ok Guys,

I'm going to brutally honest here, and hopefully after all the all the "flaming", someone will have some empathy, and help a brotha out.

So here we go, I'm afraid of detailing my car myself; there, I've said it. I own an '05 NBP TL, and am kinda ashamed of how I've treated "my baby". If she were truly a child, DCFS would have taken her long ago due to her unhygienical appearance. She deserves to be "bathed" more often, and I want to make amends.

Now here's the thing. I've looked at all four parts of the infamous 2006 Acura TL in Nighthawk Black Pearl, and quite frankly, IT was what scared me. I don't know if I'm capable of doing what was done, or if the amount of detail/work is beyond my ability. The TL in the guide looks SO beautiful, I damn near cried. I don't have the money to pay someone to consistently detail my car like that, so I want to try and see what I can do.

No, I'm not looking for donations, but I am looking to have a couple questions answered. Any suggestions would also be welcome, if you could also give a reason for said suggestion. (i.e. - "Product X" because it does a great job, and leaves a nice shine, You don't need to wax, because x, y, or z, etc.)

Questions

1. To give my car that "liquid" look/shine, do I need to clay/wax it with a machine? Is this really the only way? I have never done this before, and am kind of intimidated by the process of claying/waxing with machines for that matter.

2. IF I detailed the car myself, how often is that necessary to do, and what will be necessary to do in between "detailing" in order to keep that "liquid" look/shine? How should I wash, as to not destroy the look. Would I have to re-clay/polish everytime I wash?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

if you do this twice a year, you should be ok, depending on what kind of conditions your car is subjected to...and you would want to do step 1(wash) once a week minimum...

wash
clay
polish(machine)
seal(sealant, or wax)

 

When you saying 'waxing' with the machine, I think you mean polishing and in answer, yes, that is the only way to rid the paint of swirl marks and other evil. Having worked with several Acuras in NBP I can tell you it's a color that will make you work hard for the reward and there will be times where you just want to push the thing off a cliff. But when it sits there in the sun, swirl-free with the blue flake literally jumping off the paint, all that pain and aggravation just becomes totally worth it. You can then take pride in the fact that you have one of the best looking TLs for several counties (if not states) and know that you did it yourself.

As for not having the ability or know-how to do something like this, well that's a whole different ball game. Look through write-ups on here and think to yourself that anybody who accomplished that was once exactly where you are now. Just four years ago, I was hacking away at black cars with a brush, blind to the damage I was causing. Now I have a cabinet full of equipment and I'm not done buying yet but that doesn't mean I pretend to know everything because anybody who does so is just full of it. Never hesitate to ask questions because that is how we learn and thankfully I have a wonderful group of detailing comrades who will take time out of their day to help me. And I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to return the favor.

In the words of Henry Ford, "Whether you think you can or you can't, you're right."

 

glenn, i was in the same boat as you 6 months ago and i took the plunge and never looked back. Here is my answers to your questions and some advice.

1. Machine polishing is always going to yield the best mirror shine. Now if you do not want to drop 300+ on a Porter Cable 7424XP and a couple polishes and pads, then dont do it. You can always polish by hand once or twice a year and your car will still look 10 times better then 99.5 % of the other cars on the road.

2. As far as how often you should detail your car that is very dependant on how dirty it gets and how much time you have. I would say a FULL detail, meaning 8-10 hours at minimum being spent on the car once or twice a year. Then maybe every 2 or 3 months do a quick detail between 4-5 hours which would basically be everything except waxing and polishing. I would then say just a quick wash and interior detail once every 2-4 weeks again depending on how dirty it gets and how much time you have.

The only time you need to clay is when you are doing a FULL detail where you will be machine polishing. Most people that are really into doing this only clay once per year. I will only be claying once per year myself and it is not hard to do at all. I dont think you get "harsh" winters in CA, but the people that do have hard winters or drive in snow a lot where salt is put on the roads tend to clay twice a year.

I can understand how Todd's NHBP writeup could scare you, it did me too at first. Once i actually read through it 3 or 4 times though it seemed much more doable as i really started to understand everything. I decided to pretty much turn the complete polishing section, which is almost all of page 2 into a 1 step process. I knew that would shave time down and make it easier for me to do in the begining. With many emails with Todd and several conversations on the phone, Todd really helped me out in understanding some things and agreed that doing a 1 step polish-sealant would be a good start. As i get into this more i will move into multi-step polishing and sealing.

I hope that helps and dont be afraid to turn the radio in the garage to full blast and spend a day with your baby!

 

Also, here is a list of products i bought from Detailed Image. I will link the ones that i think are 100 % necassary for just starting out so you can start building your arsenal with those first.

303 Aerospace Protectant

Optimum Car Wax

Optimum Power Clean

P21S Total Auto Wash

(My invoice copied from my larger of several orders i made)
1 Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant - 8 oz
1 P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner - 500 ml Kit
1 P21S Total Auto Wash - 1000 ml Kit
1 Chemical Guys Fade 2 Black - 13 oz
1 Chemical Guys Citrus Wash - 16 oz
1 Optimum (OPT) Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer - 32 oz
1 Optimum (OPT) Car Wax - 17 oz
1 Optimum (OPT) Power Clean - 17 oz
1 Optimum (OPT) Poli-Seal - 32 oz
1 Dodo Juice Born Slippy Clay Lube Concentrate - 250 ml
1 Dodo Juice Born to be Mild Shampoo - 250 ml
1 303 Aerospace Protectant - 32 oz
1 Leatherique Prestine Clean - 16 oz
1 Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil - 16 oz
1 DI Accessories Gentle Fine Grade Clay - 200 g (Dark Blue)
1 Klasse All In One (AIO) - 500 ml
1 Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger - 16 oz (w/Foam Applicator)
1 Blackfire Long Lasting Tire Gel with Polycharger - 16 oz (w/Tire Foam Applicator)
2 Grit Guard Grit Guard Insert
1 DI Accessories E-Z Detail Brush - Full Size
1 DI Accessories E-Z Detail Brush - Mini Size
1 Porter Cable 6" Counter Weight
1 Lake Country Porter Cable 7424 Backing Plate for 4 Inch Pads - 85 mm
1 Lake Country Black Finishing Pad - 4 inch
1 Lake Country White Polishing Pad - 4 inch
2 Lake Country Black Finishing Pad - 6.5 inch
1 DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP 6.5" Basic Kit

I bought some other things elsewhere as well and cant remember what all i got. A foam gun is excellent as well but if you are trying to start off on a budget you could wait till later for that.

 

Thanks a MILLION guys! I was in the process of disecting the "detailed tutorial", to get a list of products, but Disbe saved me some time. You were right Portland, I was definitely confusing terms. I didn't really know that polishing and waxing were two seperate things.

I found a new PC online for like $120, so I think I'm going to take the plunge. I was wondering what the main difference between the "sander with polishing pad" (7346SP) and "polisher" (7424XP) were. Are they basically the same machine, with the exception that one brings an extra attachment?

I wish I had all the goodies in my hands now, as I'm very motivated to get started. I'm gonna do some ordering now, but will definitely keep you guys updated.

Thanks again for the encouragement, and explanations.

 

FWIW, this is the guideline I try to follow (or at least know I should follow) for taking care of my car.

Wash once a week
Wax once a month
Clay every 6-8 months
Full detail including polish once a year

I think it's possible to hand-polish swirls off, but I heard it's a hell of a job, and using a machine is much much easier.

That being said, it's also easier to damage your paint using the machine, so READ READ READ READ. Read this Wash & Wax forum, go over to detailedimage.com, autopia.org and READ. There's a ton of info available everywhere, you just have to find it, and make sure you know it before you start working on your car.

Best of luck

 

The 7424XP usually comes with a backing plate and the correct counter weight.

In most cases your better off to buy the PC and supplies in "non" kit form .. then you get to select exactly what you need.

How about this ;

1) PC here --> http://www.coastaltool.com/a/port/7424xp_5polisher.htm free shipping and you get the backing plate for 5.5" pads


2) 2 orange pads

3) 3 white pads

above bought here --> http://www.westcoastdetailsupply.com...hing_Pads.html

4) Optimum Polish 32

5) Optimum Compound II 8oz

6) Optimum Hyper Compound 8oz

above bought here ---> http://www.westcoastdetailsupply.com..._Polishes.html

7) Duragloss 105 TPP 16oz

Above bought here ----> http://www.westcoastdetailsupply.com..._Sealants.html


Optimum polishes are very forgiving for the beginner, longer working time and no dusting.. I even use them in direct sun.

 

^ that's a good list of supplies. But I'd get 4 orange pads/4 white pads instead...... I don't think 2 orange is enough to polish out a TL (Half a TL yes, whole TL is kind of pushing it imo.)

 

By the way, I'm in Long Beach, if you need help with the polisher, let me know.

 

I only used 4 orange on a badly oxidized single stage black 66 Chev pickup yesterday..

Usually clogged pads are from using too much product.

Anyway ... get 4 of each .. least by doing it this way you get what you need and not a bunch of crap you don't.

 

No offense to saying he should get more than 2. But if he's never done this before, chances are he doesn't know "how little" products to use, so 4 is always a safer bet. I use 4 pads on most cars because I'd like to get consistent performance out of my pads (besides, less products soaked in the pads = easier to clean later on lol). so 4 pads are what I use most of the time, but this is just personal preference.

 

maybe a local member can find some time to assist you or at least give you a quick guidance on the entire process or even possibly loan you his equipment. i dont know anything much about detailing but thats what i would try.

 

My contribution to this thread: buy a SSM colored TL next time. Hides everything...

 

+1

If my Santa Fe was black it would look AWFUL but because it's silver, it looks great. I have to struggle to find the scratches while on the RL you can see them six miles off in a blizzard.

 

That's alright, man...I used to make the same mistake. The major companies have blurred the line so much to promote products that most people don't know what the difference is. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to PM me.

 

^ experienced and talented detailer, IMO the best working out of his garage.

 

Agreed. Silver is such an easy color. My mom has a plain black (no metallic flake) 2008 C350 that she takes through the car wash all the time. You have no idea how much I cringe when I see that thing in sunlight. She's trading it in on a GLK next month and I told her she's not allowed to get black again because I hate detailing it for her.

 

I always figured white is the easiest.

 

 

That's true to some degree. White is easy because you are allowed to be "lazy" with it; it's hard because you cant see what you are doing.

 

wax twice a year

 

3 times would be good

 

maybe 5 lol

 

More like wash weekly (or bi-weekly), wax once a week, clay bar once every 6 months, and good polish once a year.

 

NBP can be a bit intimidating at times. Thanks for the recommended products.