Cleaning your wheels
10-22-2004, 07:21 PM
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Cleaning your wheels
The first step of the detailing process is to clean the wheels since they are usually the dirtiest part of the car. They must be cleaned often because the heated dust particles from brake pads bombard the wheels and bake into the finish. If left on the wheel, a phenomenon known as “galvanic corrosion” sets in, which will eventually pit and destroy the wheel’s appearance. Just remember that a dirty wheel attracts dirt. So the best time to take care of your wheels is when they are new. I always recommend taking off new wheels and protecting them with a paint sealant to our detailing customers.
First and foremost, you must know what type of wheels you have. They could be OEM or aftermarket wheels with a painted (or just clear-coated), chromed, polished, anodized, powder coated or plastic covers (let’s hope not!) finish. Pretty much most of today’s OEM wheels are clear-coated with polyurethane enamel. The coating is very similar to the clear-coat on your paint except it is usually thicker. Its purpose is to protect the wheel and to make brake dust removal easier.
The next step is to choose an appropriate cleaner to do the job for your specific wheels. Unfortunately, in most cases car wash soaps and general-purpose cleaners are not strong enough to dissolve the bond between brake dust and wheel. There are two types of wheel cleaners: acid and non-acid (alkaline). Although we will use our own proprietary blends of cleaners in our shop, you can pick out an acceptable one at your local auto store or through a mail order house. A safe all-purpose wheel cleaner will have a pH of 8.5-9.5 (7.0 is neutral, while < 7.0 is acidic). Always read the instruction label to make sure the product is compatible with your wheel finish. I strongly recommend avoiding acid or caustic (high pH) cleaners; they pose health risks as well as possible wheel damage. Also, do not use acid cleaners on older wheels where the finish (clear coat) is pitted or flaking. It tends to migrate under the clear coat and lift it. And by the way, in all my years of detailing and trying dozens of cleaners, I realized that there is no such thing as a “no-touch” wheel cleaner. If there were, they would not be making wheel brushes anymore.
The final step is to choose the right tools - wheel brushes, spoke brushes and toothbrushes. I prefer to use brushes with the soft tampico natural bristles and wood/plastic handles. I do not use any steel wool and recommend you don’t either, although you may see many car washes and detailers use it. The reason they use it is simple; to save time - but at the risk of sacrificing the integrity of the clear-coat.
Now that we have the chemicals, tools and basic knowledge, let’s go through the steps you will be taking to clean your wheels:
1. Hose off the wheels and the wheel wells with a strong stream of cool water to wash off as much dirt and dust as possible (a pressure washer is useful, but with no more than 1200 psi), and more importantly, to cool off the wheel. Never apply the cleaner to a hot or dry wheel. (Note: If you have just returned from finding out how much horse-power that new exhaust or intake added to your TL and your brake discs are glowing from the braking, let them air cool first before hosing them off or you will risk cracking the wheel’s clear-coat).
2. Apply the wheel cleaner to one wheel at a time. Allow the cleaner to dwell, per the instructions, but do not let it dry.
3. Scrub the flat surface of the wheel using your wheel brush wet with water and get the bristles into as many recessed areas as possible.
4. Use the spoke brush wet with water to clean the deeply recessed areas of the wheel. Do not use a brush with an exposed metal tip; one sudden slip could permanently gouge the delicate clear-coat or polished metal. Rinse the wheel with clean water. If there is still brake dust in the recessed areas, it’s time to whip out that toothbrush.
5. If some road tar still remains, use a liquid bug and tar solvent. Allow it to dwell and then wipe off and buff with a soft clean towel or microfiber. Re-wash area with the wheel cleaner.
6. Now rotate the wheels 180 degrees and repeat the procedure.
7. Follow up with a light coat of synthetic paint sealant which will provide a sacrificial protective layer against the brake dust and make it easier to clean the wheels in the future. Similar to your car’s paint, you don’t need this step on every wheel wash but a mist of instant detailer with sealant in it which will prolong the protection in between waxing. Carnauba wax isn’t preferable since it will not last as long and will melt at high heat.
Congratulations! You now have clean wheels. I recommend you clean your wheels at least weekly and stay away from automatic carwashes. Most have hard silicon carbide rotating brushes to clean tires and white walls. These brushes, the accompanying corrosive chemicals and the tracks used to guide the vehicle can instantly cause permanent wheel damage. A high-quality car wash should always offer hand washing (that’s without the tracks). If this service is not available, locate a reliable detailer or do it yourself if you are comfortable with the procedure.
First and foremost, you must know what type of wheels you have. They could be OEM or aftermarket wheels with a painted (or just clear-coated), chromed, polished, anodized, powder coated or plastic covers (let’s hope not!) finish. Pretty much most of today’s OEM wheels are clear-coated with polyurethane enamel. The coating is very similar to the clear-coat on your paint except it is usually thicker. Its purpose is to protect the wheel and to make brake dust removal easier.
The next step is to choose an appropriate cleaner to do the job for your specific wheels. Unfortunately, in most cases car wash soaps and general-purpose cleaners are not strong enough to dissolve the bond between brake dust and wheel. There are two types of wheel cleaners: acid and non-acid (alkaline). Although we will use our own proprietary blends of cleaners in our shop, you can pick out an acceptable one at your local auto store or through a mail order house. A safe all-purpose wheel cleaner will have a pH of 8.5-9.5 (7.0 is neutral, while < 7.0 is acidic). Always read the instruction label to make sure the product is compatible with your wheel finish. I strongly recommend avoiding acid or caustic (high pH) cleaners; they pose health risks as well as possible wheel damage. Also, do not use acid cleaners on older wheels where the finish (clear coat) is pitted or flaking. It tends to migrate under the clear coat and lift it. And by the way, in all my years of detailing and trying dozens of cleaners, I realized that there is no such thing as a “no-touch” wheel cleaner. If there were, they would not be making wheel brushes anymore.
The final step is to choose the right tools - wheel brushes, spoke brushes and toothbrushes. I prefer to use brushes with the soft tampico natural bristles and wood/plastic handles. I do not use any steel wool and recommend you don’t either, although you may see many car washes and detailers use it. The reason they use it is simple; to save time - but at the risk of sacrificing the integrity of the clear-coat.
Now that we have the chemicals, tools and basic knowledge, let’s go through the steps you will be taking to clean your wheels:
1. Hose off the wheels and the wheel wells with a strong stream of cool water to wash off as much dirt and dust as possible (a pressure washer is useful, but with no more than 1200 psi), and more importantly, to cool off the wheel. Never apply the cleaner to a hot or dry wheel. (Note: If you have just returned from finding out how much horse-power that new exhaust or intake added to your TL and your brake discs are glowing from the braking, let them air cool first before hosing them off or you will risk cracking the wheel’s clear-coat).
2. Apply the wheel cleaner to one wheel at a time. Allow the cleaner to dwell, per the instructions, but do not let it dry.
3. Scrub the flat surface of the wheel using your wheel brush wet with water and get the bristles into as many recessed areas as possible.
4. Use the spoke brush wet with water to clean the deeply recessed areas of the wheel. Do not use a brush with an exposed metal tip; one sudden slip could permanently gouge the delicate clear-coat or polished metal. Rinse the wheel with clean water. If there is still brake dust in the recessed areas, it’s time to whip out that toothbrush.
5. If some road tar still remains, use a liquid bug and tar solvent. Allow it to dwell and then wipe off and buff with a soft clean towel or microfiber. Re-wash area with the wheel cleaner.
6. Now rotate the wheels 180 degrees and repeat the procedure.
7. Follow up with a light coat of synthetic paint sealant which will provide a sacrificial protective layer against the brake dust and make it easier to clean the wheels in the future. Similar to your car’s paint, you don’t need this step on every wheel wash but a mist of instant detailer with sealant in it which will prolong the protection in between waxing. Carnauba wax isn’t preferable since it will not last as long and will melt at high heat.
Congratulations! You now have clean wheels. I recommend you clean your wheels at least weekly and stay away from automatic carwashes. Most have hard silicon carbide rotating brushes to clean tires and white walls. These brushes, the accompanying corrosive chemicals and the tracks used to guide the vehicle can instantly cause permanent wheel damage. A high-quality car wash should always offer hand washing (that’s without the tracks). If this service is not available, locate a reliable detailer or do it yourself if you are comfortable with the procedure.
10-23-2004, 02:32 AM
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Can you recommend some brands of Wheel Cleaners? Most ... almost of the Wheel Cleaners I've looked at do not have ingredients ... I.E acid or non-acid. I've looked at over 10 different cleaners and they do not say acid or non-acid cleaner.
Let me know the exact brand/name of the cleaner you guys use that are non-acid. I have Chrome Wheels.
Let me know the exact brand/name of the cleaner you guys use that are non-acid. I have Chrome Wheels.
10-23-2004, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by OrangeCream
Can you recommend some brands of Wheel Cleaners? Most ... almost of the Wheel Cleaners I've looked at do not have ingredients ... I.E acid or non-acid. I've looked at over 10 different cleaners and they do not say acid or non-acid cleaner.
Let me know the exact brand/name of the cleaner you guys use that are non-acid. I have Chrome Wheels.
Let me know the exact brand/name of the cleaner you guys use that are non-acid. I have Chrome Wheels.
Any wheel products that have a caution on them that it will burn your skin will be either caustic or acidic so avoid those and read the labels and follow their instructions step by step. Whatever you choose, just make sure you clean one wheel at a time and don't let the solution dry on your wheels.
Happy detailing.
10-25-2004, 07:08 AM
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I have been using the Wheel Shampoo/Wheel brush/Liquid Gloss from Detailing Dynamics since I got my TL a couple months ago. I've been following Mike's tips and have been extremely satisfied. I use their car wash/waxing products as well which also perform extremely well and come with great explanations.
www.detailingdynamics.com
www.detailingdynamics.com
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10-25-2004, 09:08 AM
#8
The Old Grey Whistle Test
~One man’s opinion / observations~
P21s Wheel Cleaner is 100% acid free with a pH of 7.0, a pH of 8.5 – 9.0 may be somewhat alkaline (each whole pH value above 7 is ten times more alkaline than the next lower whole value. For example, a pH of 10 is ten times more alkaline than a pH of 9)
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
P21s Wheel Cleaner is 100% acid free with a pH of 7.0, a pH of 8.5 – 9.0 may be somewhat alkaline (each whole pH value above 7 is ten times more alkaline than the next lower whole value. For example, a pH of 10 is ten times more alkaline than a pH of 9)
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
10-26-2004, 11:45 AM
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If you want to learn more about pH, see this link:
http://www.epa.gov/airmarkets/acidrain/ph.html
By the way, drinking water will range in pH from 6.5-8.5 and balanced pH can have a meaning in itself.
http://www.epa.gov/airmarkets/acidrain/ph.html
By the way, drinking water will range in pH from 6.5-8.5 and balanced pH can have a meaning in itself.
10-26-2004, 05:07 PM
#11
Not a Blowhole
Mike: I assume you are talking about chromed wheels, or wheels without a painted coating, right?
On painted wheels, I do not see how the differing metallics can interact with an inert layer of clear coat between them.
?
On painted wheels, I do not see how the differing metallics can interact with an inert layer of clear coat between them.
?
10-27-2004, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Road Rage
Mike: I assume you are talking about chromed wheels, or wheels without a painted coating, right?
On painted wheels, I do not see how the differing metallics can interact with an inert layer of clear coat between them.
?
On painted wheels, I do not see how the differing metallics can interact with an inert layer of clear coat between them.
?
I assume you are talking about the 10-23-2004, 09:37 AM reply to Orangecream? He has chrome wheels so that is what I was referring to.
10-28-2004, 09:45 AM
#13
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Quote: Chrome is a porous coating so skip the step of waxing or adding a sealant to the wheels.
~One man’s opinion / observations~
I didn’t think chrome plating was porous (although it can be treated to be that way) to my knowledge chrome plated wheels are not porous, and applying a sealant is the best way to protect them.
Chrome Wheels:
Thoroughly rinse wheels to remove any loose surface dirt or dust, remove imbedded brake dust with detailer’s clay, then remove surface brake dust with a 100% acid-free and neutral pH wheel cleaner (P21S Wheel Cleaner) Agitate with a soft boar’s hair wheel brush and rinse with low-pressure clean water. Apply two coats (to ensure complete coverage) of a chemical solvent cleaner/acrylic polymer (Klasse All-In-One) this will provide both cleaning and protection. Remove residue and buff to a shine with a Microfiber towel, this will make wheel surface easier to clean in the future.
Note; If anybody has hints, tips, or corrections to the above procedure, I’m always anxious to improve my technique/ knowledge
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM
~One man’s opinion / observations~
I didn’t think chrome plating was porous (although it can be treated to be that way) to my knowledge chrome plated wheels are not porous, and applying a sealant is the best way to protect them.
Chrome Wheels:
Thoroughly rinse wheels to remove any loose surface dirt or dust, remove imbedded brake dust with detailer’s clay, then remove surface brake dust with a 100% acid-free and neutral pH wheel cleaner (P21S Wheel Cleaner) Agitate with a soft boar’s hair wheel brush and rinse with low-pressure clean water. Apply two coats (to ensure complete coverage) of a chemical solvent cleaner/acrylic polymer (Klasse All-In-One) this will provide both cleaning and protection. Remove residue and buff to a shine with a Microfiber towel, this will make wheel surface easier to clean in the future.
Note; If anybody has hints, tips, or corrections to the above procedure, I’m always anxious to improve my technique/ knowledge
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM
10-28-2004, 01:51 PM
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All chrome plating has microscopic cracks in them and are porous (to what level depending on how the coatings are optimized during the plating process).
Our opinion is that cleaning chrome wheels weekly will keep them in good shape for years to come and we don't wax or add sealant in our shop although others do suggest that step.
Other note is to make sure the wheels are cool to prevent spotting the chrome finish and to also avoid at all cost ammonia based cleaners on the wheels in addition to the already noted acid cleaners.
Our opinion is that cleaning chrome wheels weekly will keep them in good shape for years to come and we don't wax or add sealant in our shop although others do suggest that step.
Other note is to make sure the wheels are cool to prevent spotting the chrome finish and to also avoid at all cost ammonia based cleaners on the wheels in addition to the already noted acid cleaners.
10-28-2004, 09:33 PM
#15
Not a Blowhole
Chrome is actually a "sacrificial" material - its structure consists of oxidized scale which constantly "gives up" its top layer of molecules to reveal the shine below - I too believe that cleaning is paramount, with no wax, which would seem to me to compromise the whole process.
Remember that we are not dealing with pure chromium as found on the periodic table. "Chrome" has nickel added, and a copper substrate as I recall.
Oxidation resistance can be attributed to the formation of a highly adherent protective scale. The adherence and coherence of the scale can be improved by the addition of small amounts of other reactive elements such as zirconium, silicon, cerium, calcium or similar. The scale thus formed is a mixture of nickel and chrome oxides (NiO and Cr2O3). These combine to form nickel chromite (NiCr2O4), which has a spinel-type structure.
Keep them clean, but not sealed - you are mucking around with the formation of the protective layer.
Other metals do this - it is interesting (to me) to note that oxides generally increase electrical resistance (copper turns green and ruins your speaker cables), except silver oxide, which actually has lower bulk resitivity. This is why many RF cables of copper have a silver coating.
Remember that we are not dealing with pure chromium as found on the periodic table. "Chrome" has nickel added, and a copper substrate as I recall.
Oxidation resistance can be attributed to the formation of a highly adherent protective scale. The adherence and coherence of the scale can be improved by the addition of small amounts of other reactive elements such as zirconium, silicon, cerium, calcium or similar. The scale thus formed is a mixture of nickel and chrome oxides (NiO and Cr2O3). These combine to form nickel chromite (NiCr2O4), which has a spinel-type structure.
Keep them clean, but not sealed - you are mucking around with the formation of the protective layer.
Other metals do this - it is interesting (to me) to note that oxides generally increase electrical resistance (copper turns green and ruins your speaker cables), except silver oxide, which actually has lower bulk resitivity. This is why many RF cables of copper have a silver coating.
10-28-2004, 09:41 PM
#16
Photoshops, and Polls!!!!
I have the "black chrome" aspec wheels, which type of cleaner should i use?
Im not sure, but i heared that the black part is from a 'powdered coating'
please advise
Im not sure, but i heared that the black part is from a 'powdered coating'
please advise
11-01-2004, 06:49 PM
#17
Not a Blowhole
Originally Posted by Jerky
I have the "black chrome" aspec wheels, which type of cleaner should i use?
Im not sure, but i heared that the black part is from a 'powdered coating'
please advise
Im not sure, but i heared that the black part is from a 'powdered coating'
please advise
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