Chalky paint, only way to get rid of it is a buffer?
#1
That was uncalled for...
Thread Starter
Chalky paint, only way to get rid of it is a buffer?
My beater has got some nasty spots, the car is red but on the hatch it almost looks pink, but when its wet with water its the proper red colour. I was wondering if the only way to get it back to the proper colour is a buffing. Are there any products that could work or is buffing the only solution?
Thanks
Thanks
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#2
The sizzle in the Steak
I think you are talking about oxidation.
It depends on how bad the oxidation is....it sounds like your paint is in poor condition.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-p...sh-clinic.html
scroll down to "oxidation"
It depends on how bad the oxidation is....it sounds like your paint is in poor condition.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-p...sh-clinic.html
scroll down to "oxidation"
#4
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Oxidation(chalk like appearance to pant surface) - it starts as a chemical reaction that causes the resin binder system to overheat and dry out, leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro fissures in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration. Once the air borne contaminates and pollution compromises the paint surface they accelerate the oxidation (reduction) or paint failure process.
Two stage paint system- (base, colour and clear coat) - a clear-coat finish does not oxidize in the true sense of the word (meaning that the pigments and resins mix together and the pigments are exposed to the sun's ultra-violet rays, which causes them to dry out or oxidize.
The clear coat is applied to protect against this but the finish will become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if acidic car washing solutions as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out (oxidize) the paint.
The clear coat layer is extremely thin (1.5 – 2.0 Mils) it is not a solid coating and is to some extent porous, oxygen interacts with substances in the paint layer (i.e. mica flakes as in metallic paints) and trigger the oxidation reaction. It's just that the amount of oxidation taking place is minimal in comparison to single stage paint.
Oxidation can usually be removed by using detailers clay to remove any surface contaminants, and/or a solvent type chemical cleaner/polish (Zaino ZPC Fusion or Klasse All-In-One) and then a suitable abrasive polish (dependant upon how severe the problem) to remove the oxidized paint (Optimum Compound or Optimum Polish) with a cutting foam pad (LC orange or yellow, PC speed #4, or 1100RPM Rotary) and then apply a sealant and / or wax protection
Two stage paint system- (base, colour and clear coat) - a clear-coat finish does not oxidize in the true sense of the word (meaning that the pigments and resins mix together and the pigments are exposed to the sun's ultra-violet rays, which causes them to dry out or oxidize.
The clear coat is applied to protect against this but the finish will become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if acidic car washing solutions as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out (oxidize) the paint.
The clear coat layer is extremely thin (1.5 – 2.0 Mils) it is not a solid coating and is to some extent porous, oxygen interacts with substances in the paint layer (i.e. mica flakes as in metallic paints) and trigger the oxidation reaction. It's just that the amount of oxidation taking place is minimal in comparison to single stage paint.
Oxidation can usually be removed by using detailers clay to remove any surface contaminants, and/or a solvent type chemical cleaner/polish (Zaino ZPC Fusion or Klasse All-In-One) and then a suitable abrasive polish (dependant upon how severe the problem) to remove the oxidized paint (Optimum Compound or Optimum Polish) with a cutting foam pad (LC orange or yellow, PC speed #4, or 1100RPM Rotary) and then apply a sealant and / or wax protection
#5
That was uncalled for...
Thread Starter
Took all the info I read here and on Autopia and put it to very good use.
The paint before, VERY chalky, and VERY rough, honestly like 2000 grit sandpaper, close to no shine at all:
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Jeep_Man/2694025.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Jeep_Man/IMG_1842.jpg)
After, Wash, Buffing, Claybar, Polish, Wash again, finsih with Klasse 2 step, Smooth as glass:
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Jeep_Man/IMG_1843.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Jeep_Man/IMG_1848.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Jeep_Man/IMG_1846.jpg)
I dont think the old lady that owned it before me waced it once, and she was the orginal owner.
Thanks again for the help
The paint before, VERY chalky, and VERY rough, honestly like 2000 grit sandpaper, close to no shine at all:
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Jeep_Man/2694025.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Jeep_Man/IMG_1842.jpg)
After, Wash, Buffing, Claybar, Polish, Wash again, finsih with Klasse 2 step, Smooth as glass:
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Jeep_Man/IMG_1843.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Jeep_Man/IMG_1848.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Jeep_Man/IMG_1846.jpg)
I dont think the old lady that owned it before me waced it once, and she was the orginal owner.
Thanks again for the help
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#9
The Old Grey Whistle Test
An alternative product for vinyl-
Vinyl Trim Renovation:
To renovate and to accomplish long lasting repairs on UVR faded, scuffed, or scratched black trim, moulding, mirror covers, door handles, etc. without replacement or repainting with this kit from Automotive International
A fast and easy to use system that is long lasting and can be applied without the use of specialized tools, this product is not a dressing that will wash off after a short period but rather is an actual dye that can last up to 12 months. It comes with a clear coat product also to give it more protection and more shine.
Exterior Trim Renovation (ETR) a three-product system that comprises- 1.Surface Prep
2.Colour Guard, Toner
3.UVR Guard
Each system comes in an 8 oz. container; the kit also includes mixing sticks, mixing cups for the production of grey Product source - Automotive International ETR II Kit - (htpp://www.autoint.com)
Alternative product- GR -40 Trim & Molding Restoration Kit - http://www.topoftheline.com/trimmolreski.html
[each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher]
Vinyl Trim Renovation:
To renovate and to accomplish long lasting repairs on UVR faded, scuffed, or scratched black trim, moulding, mirror covers, door handles, etc. without replacement or repainting with this kit from Automotive International
A fast and easy to use system that is long lasting and can be applied without the use of specialized tools, this product is not a dressing that will wash off after a short period but rather is an actual dye that can last up to 12 months. It comes with a clear coat product also to give it more protection and more shine.
Exterior Trim Renovation (ETR) a three-product system that comprises- 1.Surface Prep
2.Colour Guard, Toner
3.UVR Guard
Each system comes in an 8 oz. container; the kit also includes mixing sticks, mixing cups for the production of grey Product source - Automotive International ETR II Kit - (htpp://www.autoint.com)
Alternative product- GR -40 Trim & Molding Restoration Kit - http://www.topoftheline.com/trimmolreski.html
[each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher]
#10
That was uncalled for...
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips guys, I was actually wondering what I could do to get the bumpers nice and dark again :thumb:
Dark black bumpers would look good with my black steelies
Dark black bumpers would look good with my black steelies
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