Car freshly painted, how do I protect and wax her?
08-17-2006, 03:01 AM
#1
CL smashin
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Car freshly painted, how do I protect and wax her?
I just got my 1st gen painted and I want to wash and wax/polish her before she sees any more driving, but how do I go about this? I've read somewhere that Zaino isn't the best choice when first polishing a freshly painted car, but I'm a noob at detailing since I didn't really care for the paint as much as I do now (previous owner didn't take care of the paint, let alone the car for that matter). I want to protect the paint as much as possible. I've been reading some threads in this forum but I'm not too sure which way to go because like I said, the paint is only barely a week old and I don't want to mess it up, especially since the paint is black (Nighthawk Black Pearl).
Also, I already have a small scratch on the hood and looks like it's on the clearcoat only because it looks like a white hair, how do I fix that? In general, how exactly do you buff out a scratch?
Any help would be very much appreciated. I've searched around and haven't found anything really clear. Thanks.
Also, I already have a small scratch on the hood and looks like it's on the clearcoat only because it looks like a white hair, how do I fix that? In general, how exactly do you buff out a scratch?
Any help would be very much appreciated. I've searched around and haven't found anything really clear. Thanks.
08-17-2006, 03:27 PM
#3
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Newly re- painted vehicle-
b) Newly re- painted vehicle-
1. Oil-based paint, lacquer or enamel and low solids paint systems are formulated with solvents (30-80% dependant upon manufacturer) once applied paint needs to dry and the solvents need to (out-gas) evaporate for sixty to ninety days (60-90) to enable the paint off gassing and aerobic curing, if the paint is covered with a conventional wax or sealant it will arrest the gas off (evaporate) /cure aerobic process.
2. Water-based high solid/low solvent and urethane paints used by PPG Industries, DuPont Chemicals, and BASF Aktiengesellschaft and most other paint manufacturers are not as chemically resistant as the older paint systems as they are porous, but do not require time for the gas off (evaporate) /cure aerobic process., as they are either catalyzed (i.e. a chemical process that cures paint) or oven-dried, but I would suggest waiting for approximately ten to fifteen days before any product application, which should be more than sufficient time to enable paint off gassing and aerobic curing. Professional painters add chemicals; accelerants and compounds to their paint mix prior to painting to improve flexibility, reduce paint imperfections, increase hardness, improve gloss and reduce curing times.
3. Applied after polishing, a glaze is the make-up that hides flaws and gives paint the sheen it had in the showroom. The common ingredients in a’ fresh paint safe’ glaze are: water, glycerine (to produce a high shine) amino-functional mineral oils, solvent, and mild abrasive Kaolin (China clay) to burnish the surface and produce a gloss, they exclude silicone and wax, some polymers are also formulated as ‘fresh paint safe’
4. The application of a specific ‘fresh paint safe’ or polymer type product, Zanio Z Polishes (exclude the use of either Z1 or ZFX™) allow an ‘initial gas off’ (evaporate) /cure aerobic process. of 7 days before application. These products are completely safe for any fresh paint system as they allow the solvents in an oil-based paint outgas / aerobic cure process and provide some protection for any type of paint surface. After thirty days (30) the paint surface can be protected with a regular polymer sealant and/or Carnauba wax. (See also Notes below)
5. Abrasive polish should be avoided until the paint has cured (an abrasive polish will not necessarily harm the soft new paint but unless it’s absolutely necessary I would avoid it) Vehicle washing is encouraged but avoid car wash concentrates that contain any harsh detergents, alkali, acids or wax (recommended products- Zaino Z-7™ Show Car Wash, Groit’s Car Wash) also avoid car washes that uses a high-pressure spray or wax or harsh detergents.
Notes:
1.Do not use a car cover until the paint is fully cured
2.A paint film surface is a delicate thin coating easily dulled and very easily scratched, so choose carefully the advice you listen to and most importantly what advice you act upon.
3.The body-shop / paint manufactures know their products; seek their advice so as not to void any warranty. Paint manufacturer have specific technical guidelines on how to use their products to affect a warranted spot/panel/ repairs or a full repaint. This preserves both the paint manufactures and factory warranty.
4.Some Carnauba wax contains paraffin wax, which effectively ‘seals’ the paint surface more than a polymer due to its formulation. (place your hand in some paraffin wax once the wax has dried (approx 1.5-2 hours ) you'll notice that your hand starts sweating profusely because the pores have been ‘sealed’ by the wax.
1. Oil-based paint, lacquer or enamel and low solids paint systems are formulated with solvents (30-80% dependant upon manufacturer) once applied paint needs to dry and the solvents need to (out-gas) evaporate for sixty to ninety days (60-90) to enable the paint off gassing and aerobic curing, if the paint is covered with a conventional wax or sealant it will arrest the gas off (evaporate) /cure aerobic process.
2. Water-based high solid/low solvent and urethane paints used by PPG Industries, DuPont Chemicals, and BASF Aktiengesellschaft and most other paint manufacturers are not as chemically resistant as the older paint systems as they are porous, but do not require time for the gas off (evaporate) /cure aerobic process., as they are either catalyzed (i.e. a chemical process that cures paint) or oven-dried, but I would suggest waiting for approximately ten to fifteen days before any product application, which should be more than sufficient time to enable paint off gassing and aerobic curing. Professional painters add chemicals; accelerants and compounds to their paint mix prior to painting to improve flexibility, reduce paint imperfections, increase hardness, improve gloss and reduce curing times.
3. Applied after polishing, a glaze is the make-up that hides flaws and gives paint the sheen it had in the showroom. The common ingredients in a’ fresh paint safe’ glaze are: water, glycerine (to produce a high shine) amino-functional mineral oils, solvent, and mild abrasive Kaolin (China clay) to burnish the surface and produce a gloss, they exclude silicone and wax, some polymers are also formulated as ‘fresh paint safe’
4. The application of a specific ‘fresh paint safe’ or polymer type product, Zanio Z Polishes (exclude the use of either Z1 or ZFX™) allow an ‘initial gas off’ (evaporate) /cure aerobic process. of 7 days before application. These products are completely safe for any fresh paint system as they allow the solvents in an oil-based paint outgas / aerobic cure process and provide some protection for any type of paint surface. After thirty days (30) the paint surface can be protected with a regular polymer sealant and/or Carnauba wax. (See also Notes below)
5. Abrasive polish should be avoided until the paint has cured (an abrasive polish will not necessarily harm the soft new paint but unless it’s absolutely necessary I would avoid it) Vehicle washing is encouraged but avoid car wash concentrates that contain any harsh detergents, alkali, acids or wax (recommended products- Zaino Z-7™ Show Car Wash, Groit’s Car Wash) also avoid car washes that uses a high-pressure spray or wax or harsh detergents.
Notes:
1.Do not use a car cover until the paint is fully cured
2.A paint film surface is a delicate thin coating easily dulled and very easily scratched, so choose carefully the advice you listen to and most importantly what advice you act upon.
3.The body-shop / paint manufactures know their products; seek their advice so as not to void any warranty. Paint manufacturer have specific technical guidelines on how to use their products to affect a warranted spot/panel/ repairs or a full repaint. This preserves both the paint manufactures and factory warranty.
4.Some Carnauba wax contains paraffin wax, which effectively ‘seals’ the paint surface more than a polymer due to its formulation. (place your hand in some paraffin wax once the wax has dried (approx 1.5-2 hours ) you'll notice that your hand starts sweating profusely because the pores have been ‘sealed’ by the wax.
08-17-2006, 09:47 PM
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Hello everyone. This is my first post and I just bought my first 2001 Acura 3.2TL today. Until now I have been a muscle car builder and driver. Big Change!!
Most body shops will tell you to hose the car down every other day for the first 90 days (with filtered water) as the cold water aids in curing the paint harder.
If the surface begins to dull you can lightly buff with a light polish that does not contain any glaze.
Hope this helps.
Most body shops will tell you to hose the car down every other day for the first 90 days (with filtered water) as the cold water aids in curing the paint harder.
If the surface begins to dull you can lightly buff with a light polish that does not contain any glaze.
Hope this helps.
08-18-2006, 06:11 PM
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My opinion would be Meguiars #80. This will be safe for your paint and still allow it to gas while curing. But you should check with the establishment which painted your car to verify if this will be safe for the particular type of paint they used.
I also would not do it often since every time you polish, you remove a small amount of paint.
Hope this helps.
I also would not do it often since every time you polish, you remove a small amount of paint.
Hope this helps.
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08-18-2006, 08:33 PM
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Yes. Are you doing it by hand or DA? DA will obviously produce the best job. If your are going to do it by hand, use a brand new foam applicator, mist it with water (this helps reduce friction) and apply a dime size amount of #80. Polish in a cicular motion starting by passing over the scratch side to side then with the scratch until the #80 is almost gone. Buff with a MF towel and the scratch depending on the depth should be gone.
If you are going to use a DA then do not go any higher then setting 4 since the paint is still fragile.
If you are going to use a DA then do not go any higher then setting 4 since the paint is still fragile.
08-19-2006, 10:32 AM
#9
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Originally Posted by ACURA1210
Hello everyone. This is my first post and I just bought my first 2001 Acura 3.2TL today. Until now I have been a muscle car builder and driver. Big Change!!
Most body shops will tell you to hose the car down every other day for the first 90 days (with filtered water) as the cold water aids in curing the paint harder.
If the surface begins to dull you can lightly buff with a light polish that does not contain any glaze.
Hope this helps.
Most body shops will tell you to hose the car down every other day for the first 90 days (with filtered water) as the cold water aids in curing the paint harder.
If the surface begins to dull you can lightly buff with a light polish that does not contain any glaze.
Hope this helps.
Modern water borne paints more porous than conventional acrylic finishes. This accelerates a process known as drift; it is the process of waxes and sealants (and water from rain / car washing) soaking into the pores of the finish.
Because the finish of a water-based paint is porous, when magnified it looks similar to the surface of the moon, peaks and valleys etc., as it temperature fluctuates (hot to cool) water permeates into the finish. This is known as drift, drift occurs in every known finish, however the water borne paint allows this process to occur much more rapidly, in some cases, even as short as a two week period of time.
As drift occurs, the paint is left susceptible to the outdoor elements.
This leads the paint to loose gloss and be susceptible to water spots, acid rain, industrial fallout and many other forms of foreign particles. This only applies to base-coat paint’s; clear coat is a solvent based polyethylene, providing there are no breaches (paint chips, acid rain spots) there should not be a problem.
Washing the vehicle paint when it is cool and not exposing the finish to heat until it's dry will help eliminate the potential for drift
Last edited by TOGWT; 08-19-2006 at 10:36 AM.
08-19-2006, 09:58 PM
#10
Senior Moderator
one stupid question, if the car was just bought brand new, and i clayed and waxed it, do you think that the paint might have been messed up?
08-19-2006, 11:00 PM
#11
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No. When a car is built, it is primed and painted before they install any plastics or anything that may be damaged by heat. Then it is baked at high heat which almost completely cures the paint. Only when a car is repainted by a body shop can the paint be weakened by sealing it prior to the curing process completing.
08-21-2006, 06:06 AM
#12
Three Wheelin'
My TL-S has just been repainted 2 weeks ago.... And i was told not to wax or polish the car for a month.
All i've done is hose the car down with water every week b/c I don't want want to damage the paint by washing it with any pressure.
the clearcoat and paint needs time to cure within the month.
just 2 days ago i drove a family member to the mall and i already noticed a some hairline scratches on the clear coat of the door when he closed the door with his hand and fingers.
This tells me that even though its been over 2 weeks into the curing process of new paint, the clear coat is still very sensitive.
my other conclusion is that my elderly family member has really rough and dried skin from alot of gardenening work which caused the scratches.
Anyways... I'm in the same boat as you and we should wait longer for the paint to cure before we try to was/polish the car.
All i've done is hose the car down with water every week b/c I don't want want to damage the paint by washing it with any pressure.
the clearcoat and paint needs time to cure within the month.
just 2 days ago i drove a family member to the mall and i already noticed a some hairline scratches on the clear coat of the door when he closed the door with his hand and fingers.
This tells me that even though its been over 2 weeks into the curing process of new paint, the clear coat is still very sensitive.
my other conclusion is that my elderly family member has really rough and dried skin from alot of gardenening work which caused the scratches.
Anyways... I'm in the same boat as you and we should wait longer for the paint to cure before we try to was/polish the car.
08-21-2006, 05:01 PM
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What color is your car? I have a black 2001 TL with original paint and I get the same type of scratches driving down the highway. I've been detailing cars and bikes for 13 years and thats just how paint is. The darker it is the more you notice it. The best thing you can due is once the paint has cured (60 - 90 days) clay, polish, seal and wax. Once that is done a weekly wash with a good quality soap that has polymers in it will help hide the minor stuff. Of course you also have to wash the car properly to avoid scratching it then. Then re-apply wax once a month.
08-23-2006, 04:52 AM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by ACURA1210
What color is your car? I have a black 2001 TL with original paint and I get the same type of scratches driving down the highway. I've been detailing cars and bikes for 13 years and thats just how paint is. The darker it is the more you notice it. The best thing you can due is once the paint has cured (60 - 90 days) clay, polish, seal and wax. Once that is done a weekly wash with a good quality soap that has polymers in it will help hide the minor stuff. Of course you also have to wash the car properly to avoid scratching it then. Then re-apply wax once a month.
most parts of my car is currently scratcheless b/c i haven't even washed the car since the new paint job...
the hairline scratches were found from opening and closing the door by passengers..
anyways.... I can't be too anal about my paint... and atleast my paint job turned out really good and looks just as good as new.
08-23-2006, 05:02 PM
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fwiw, after my TL was damaged (2 yrs ago) I emailed Sal Zaino who replied (as far as I can recall) that waiting was bunk, that he'd been in the business for xx years & that today's paints don't need this, etc. I'll look for the email.
08-25-2006, 02:03 PM
#16
CL smashin
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Originally Posted by ACURA1210
Yes. Are you doing it by hand or DA? DA will obviously produce the best job. If your are going to do it by hand, use a brand new foam applicator, mist it with water (this helps reduce friction) and apply a dime size amount of #80. Polish in a cicular motion starting by passing over the scratch side to side then with the scratch until the #80 is almost gone. Buff with a MF towel and the scratch depending on the depth should be gone.
If you are going to use a DA then do not go any higher then setting 4 since the paint is still fragile.
If you are going to use a DA then do not go any higher then setting 4 since the paint is still fragile.
08-25-2006, 03:15 PM
#17
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Originally Posted by jmichaelp
fwiw, after my TL was damaged (2 yrs ago) I emailed Sal Zaino who replied (as far as I can recall) that waiting was bunk, that he'd been in the business for xx years & that today's paints don't need this, etc. I'll look for the email.
There's a lot of misinformation about waiting three months for the paint to cure. I am a custom painter by trade. I am very familiar with DuPont, PPG and all the other paint manufacturers. The most I personally would wait on fresh "aftermarket body shop" paint before polishing with Zaino Show Car Polish is 1 week. That's more than sufficient curing time. Zaino contains no wax, silicone oil or abrasives. The new paints are catalyzed. A chemical reaction cures the paint. The older lacquers and enamels needed time for the solvents to release. This is not the case anymore. Believe me if that paint need 3 months to dry than it will never dry. Just the facts.
This only applies to ZAINO NOT CARNAUBA based products". Sal Zaino
08-25-2006, 03:21 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Outlaw
DA..I'm assuming that's a buffer? If so, where can I get one?
You will also need accessories like the ones below also available at online detail sites .......
09-02-2006, 02:08 PM
#20
CL smashin
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So it's been 2 and a half weeks since I got the car back, and I just ordered the Zaino Ultimate Protection Show Car Kit. I forgot to mention that the shop washed my car after they painted it (which I didn't like), and there's already swirl marks from the chamois they used.
Here are my final questions (that I can think of):
1. Since the car is freshly painted, will I still need to wash the car with Dawn?
I'm not sure what soap the paint shop used when they washed my car, so I'm guessing the answer to this question is "yes" just in case they used a soap with a wax or something.
2. For the same reason in Q1, should I still clay the car?
Unsure for this part, again I'm guessing "yes" to remove the overspray (if i can find any) and any contaminants I may have picked up on the way home.
3. I'm getting anxious as hell to wash and wax her, do you guys suggest I should still wait that 1 and a half week?
I read that quote from Sal Zaino a few posts back, what do you guys think? He's been detailing forever and I'm a noob, so I guess I can take his word for it? Or should I just hold out that short time..[/b]
Thanks to everybody that helped me out. I'll post pics in the first gen section if anybody wants to see my car. I'll have some before and after pics.
Here are my final questions (that I can think of):
1. Since the car is freshly painted, will I still need to wash the car with Dawn?
I'm not sure what soap the paint shop used when they washed my car, so I'm guessing the answer to this question is "yes" just in case they used a soap with a wax or something.
2. For the same reason in Q1, should I still clay the car?
Unsure for this part, again I'm guessing "yes" to remove the overspray (if i can find any) and any contaminants I may have picked up on the way home.
3. I'm getting anxious as hell to wash and wax her, do you guys suggest I should still wait that 1 and a half week?
I read that quote from Sal Zaino a few posts back, what do you guys think? He's been detailing forever and I'm a noob, so I guess I can take his word for it? Or should I just hold out that short time..[/b]
Thanks to everybody that helped me out. I'll post pics in the first gen section if anybody wants to see my car. I'll have some before and after pics.
09-03-2006, 03:29 AM
#21
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I have detailed fresh paint (7-10 days old) with Zaino - black, on my own repainted black hood as well. I clayed it, and the surrounding area, washed and then applied Zaino. It was the best looking part of the whole car (the rest was already 1.5 years old) and was flawless till the day I sold it.
BUT - do what you feel best with . .
Question 1 and 2 get the same answer, because yes you should clay it, and that means washing it.
For the sake of the paint - get some good microfibre or other comparable wash/dry materials.
BUT - do what you feel best with . .
Question 1 and 2 get the same answer, because yes you should clay it, and that means washing it.
For the sake of the paint - get some good microfibre or other comparable wash/dry materials.
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