Basic Leather Care
02-08-2008, 01:04 PM
#1
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Thread Starter
Basic Leather Care
The interior environment of an automobile can be extremely demanding on any material used. Temperatures range from hot dry summer days, to freezing nights, both high and low humidity-even air conditioning that cools but also dries. Leathers greatest enemies are; sun, heat, body oils and ultra violet radiation (UVR) which dries, fades the colour by bleaching and can cause the leather to fail by drying out the fibres causing the polyurethane and / or the hide to crack.
Upholstery leather given the proper care and protection will withstand all of the above; provided the loss by evaporation of its essential moisture is replenished to counteract drying and stiffening, and to maintain both flexibility and suppleness. Water-based products are able to permeate deep into the hide, which is essential for suppleness recovery. Upholstery leather should be routinely cleaned with a pH balanced, non-alkaline cleaner to loosen and lift grease, dirt and dust without overly drying the leather or affecting the hides natural pH. In addition to regular cleaning to remove abrasive debris and oils, leather requires regular replacement of its moisture (re-hydration)
Choose a product that does not clog the pores of perforated leather and does not contain harsh chemicals that can damage the protective covering or strip the pigmented dye. The overall objective is to maintain the appearance of the leather as it was from the factory.
Prevention is far better than correction - leather that has become cracked from inadequate or inappropriate care usually cannot be restored to its original state by most available products / methods. It is highly recommended that you fully clean, hydrate and protect auto interiors leather upholstery surfaces 3-4 times per year (dependant upon climatic conditions. It is much easier to practice prevention than it is to correct major problems after the fact
Compare automobile upholstery [finished pigmented leather] to a vehicles paint surface with a clear coat;
1. A base material (metal) with a colour coat of water-based polymer paint
[Leather hide pigmented with a water-based polymer resin]
2. A water-based polymer clear coat to provide protection
[Water-based polyethylene clear coating to provide protection]
3. Paint doesn’t need oils to feed it (whatever Zymol says) nor does Leather; they are not living things.
[Leather was removed from a dead animal, it’s then fat-liquored to preserve its oils and then sealed and pigmented (water-based paint) so it doesn’t need oils to feed or condition it, even if they could permeate the various coverings]
As the materials and production methods that are used on automobiles change; we need to adapt to them and adjust products used and their application methodologies to keep pace with them
Leather Care / Cleaning / Maintenance–my first question when asked for recommendations on leather care / maintenance is; what kind of leather finish is it? There are three main types of leather used in automotive upholstery; (1) Pigmented (2) Natural (Uncovered) (3) polyurethane Covered and (4) Unfinished (Nubuck, Alacantra)
Choose a product that does not leave a powdery residue around the stitching does not clog the pores of perforated leather and does not contain harsh chemicals that can damage the protective covering or strip the pigmented dye. The overall objective is to maintain the appearance of the leather as it was from the factory.
Identifying characteristics- classified in accordance to their cleaning codes and labels into these basic categories: Before undertaking any cleaning or stain removal remedies it is essential to identify the type of leather involved;
1. Pigmented: The colour pigmented polyurethane coating may be embossed with a grain pattern for visual effect. Pigmented leather cannot absorb wax, most liquids and oils because of the protective properties of the finish. Since the leather hide is coated in a synthetic finish, when treating the leather, you are actually only treating the finish coating, you will need to use a product that is chemically formulated to treat the synthetic coating and not the hide itself. This is also the least expensive way of applying a leather dye (used mainly by both American and Japanese car manufactures) European vehicles (Rolls Royce, Jaguar, Ferrari, Aston-Martin, Bentley) are usually upholstered with vat-dyed leather.
2. Natural leather : (uncovered ): has a random shade colours and grain pattern; lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily)
3. Protected / Coated: This type of leather is also known as coated or covered. The majority of automotive upholstery is protected leather. These leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance. The heavier pigments can create much darker colours. Protected leather has a substantial finish applied that makes the leather more resistant to heavy wear and stains. The heavier pigments and finish do affect the softness and scent, so these leathers often don't feel or smell like real leather. These leathers are more common in the automotive industry. As the top surface has a high polyurethane finish normal leather creams should NOT be used.
To determine if your leather is protected with polyurethane covering; lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter colour, or place a few drops of water on the upholstery surface; if it ‘beads’ it’s a pigmented polyurethane coated finish. Liquids will not penetrate protected leather. These leathers are more common in the automotive industry
4. Nubuck (unfinished leather)
Suede is not commonly found in vehicles, however, a synthetic known as Alcantara® is commonly found in sport luxury vehicles on the steering wheel, armrests and seat inserts both for visual purposes and grip (on the seats and steering wheel). Similar to unfinished leather it is highly absorbent. These actually leather hides where the surface has been brushed, and have created a texture similar to velvet on leather. Many people confuse these with suede leather. Suede is the flesh side of a piece of leather, and Nubuck is an effect that is done to the grain side. This brushing actually breaks the surface and opens up the leather even more making it incredibly soft. The brushing also makes the leather even more absorbent than aniline leathers.
Natural leather (pigmented uncovered): has a random shade colours and grain pattern; (Rolls-Royce, Aston Martin, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Porsches, pre-Ford Jaguar, Mercedes-Benz (premium leather package) BMW, etc) it will scratch easily; water drops will darken its colour (temporarily) these leathers are coloured with transparent dyes which enable you to see the actual grain and markings. The most common process is to spray a wax finish on their surface which only gives short term water repellence.
To determine if your leather is unprotected, lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour, or if leather conditioners or water darken the hide. Since aniline leather has no coating, it can become dry and requires more maintenance care.
Protected / Coated: This type of leather is also known as coated / covered / or painted. The majority of automotive leathers are manufactured from protected leather. These leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance. The heavier pigments can create much darker colours. Protected leather has a substantial finish applied that makes the leather more resistant to heavy wear and stains. The heavier pigments and finish do affect the softness and scent, so these leathers often don't feel or smell like real leather.
1. (Coated or Covered) Leather:
This is a new development in using split leather. It is produced from the lower split by first melting a type of glue on the surface, then rolling on a film of coloured polyurethane. It normally is produced in darker colours and when stretched it lightens. It also scratches quite easily. This type of leather is now coming on to the furniture market but has been used for automotive upholstery, handbags and belts for some time. As the top surface has a high polyurethane finish normal leather creams should NOT be used.
Many people are unaware of the fact that since the late ‘80s early ‘90s many of the newer domestic cars and some imports (US) do not use natural leather hides anymore. Approximately 80% of vehicle manufacturers have used (thermoplastic) polyurethane covered leather for their interior upholstery. Vehicle leather upholstery is made from natural hides, chrome tanned and uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, which besides body oil is leathers worst enemy.
The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, this is further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system.
This type of automotive upholstery finish should not be considered a natural leather hide as far as care and its maintenance is concerned, but treated as a vinyl, only requiring that you maintain its moisture and protect it from ultra violet (UV) radiation. A water-based cleaner will permeate the polyurethane covering as its molecules are much smaller (oil has larger molecules than water and are unable to penetrate so oil will just sit on the surface) As the top surface has a high polyurethane finish normal leather creams should NOT be used.
Leather Conditioners:
I have discussed this issue with some people in the leather care products industry and haven't received a definitive answer. My issues are (a) how much conditioner will get through the thick polyurethane top coat on the leather (b) a chrome tanned leather hide is sealed at the tannery and then pigmented; what could a conditioner do for the hide?
Leather Protection is far more viable and will provide better long-term benefits than a conditioner as so many so called leather conditioners utilize chemical solvents in order to facilitate penetration of there oils; this has a detrimental effect of the polyethylene covering causing fissures (cracking). If your leather upholstery is becoming inflexible use Leather Master’s Vital, as leather requires re-hydration (moisture replacement) not a leather conditioner, as most of these contain oils and / or wax.
Using oil on leather that is cracked may cause the water-based pigment to loose its adhesion, making further restoration very difficult if not impossible.
An aqueous emulsion (water / oil for surface lubrication) achieves these objectives: polyurethane penetration and leather re-hydration, absorption and retention in the hide. A water-based product accomplishes this with an emulsion of micro droplets of oil (for surface lubrication) and water that permeate the leather finish and / or the polyurethane as the emulsions molecular structure is smaller than the molecules of the finished leather or the polyurethane covering.
Water unlike other organic or hydrocarbon-based solvents, is non-flammable, odourless, non-toxic and non-sensitizing to the skin and it doesn’t impart a greasy or tacky feel to the surface of the leather. In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable.
The keys to leather care are; keeping leather (a) hydrated (b) clean, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. A leather protection product is essential as it will protect the surface finish and makes dirt easier to clean off.
Don’t allow grit, dirt or dust to build up to excessive levels as this could have an abrasive affect. Combined with body weight and movement these cause abrasive friction against the leather and greatly increases wear.
Areas which are in contact with your skin and head, for example arms and backrests, car steering wheels etc. should be cleaned regularly, as perspiration breaks down the finish and pigment very quickly. A wipe over with a damp cloth on a regular basis (every week/two weeks) is recommended to remove surface dust and dirt and add moisture to the leather.
Do not spray a cleaner directly on the leather. Use an applicator sponge or cloth to apply the cleaning solution. Spraying a cleaner on hot leather can cause spotting and discolorations. Please remember, that by rubbing hard on the leather surface, you will only push the dirt deeper into the leather
Leather brush - this is a palm pump type design, so you can pour the cleaning solution in the handle. Simply pour your favourite interior upholstery cleaner in the dispenser and push down on the rubber lid. The pressure activates a miniature pump which forces the liquid out to the bristles. The brush's thick, soft bristles are flagged (puffed) so it will not scratch delicate leather http://www.topoftheline.com.
Methodology-
1.Use a soft brush to remove any dust or grit from the seams and vacuum the seating areas dust
2.The first step was to wipe the seats down with water to help the cleaning agent breakdown the dirt.
3.Apply a cleaning solution with a palm pump type brush or a double mesh woven micro fibre, made to be safe and scratch-free for all leather and vinyl finishes - http://poorboysworld.com/microfiber.htm
3a. Using a sponge, apply a small amount of Leather Master™ Soft / Strong Cleaner as necessary and gently agitate it until it foams, then remove with a damp micro fibre cloth
4.Apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Micro fibre towel to rinse.
5.Woolite® has a number of issues that do not enhance long term quality care of interior car parts and components. Using a detergent that is meant to be flush rinsed (i.e. rinsed until it runs clear) in a situation were this is not possible, is not recommended as when it dries it will attract dirt and contribute to re-soiling.
Any detergent soap that is not rinsed away will dry out a surface due to the dried soaps capillary action with moisture; this will be further aggravated if the detergent contains a foaming surfactant as these are generally formulated with sodium. This will adversely affect the polyurethane covering and cause the pigmentation to lose its bond to the leather surface.
Stain removal products –
Leather is a natural material and varies greatly between manufacturer processing and dyeing procedures, age of leather and individual hides. This is why it's so important to pre-test each cleaner for its suitability on an inconspicuous area prior to us
Notes:
1. Woolite® has a number of issues that do not lend themselves to the long-term quality care of leather upholstery and interior components. Using a detergent that is meant to be flush rinsed (i.e. rinsed until it runs clear) in a situation were this is not possible, is not recommended as when it dries it will attract dirt and contribute to re-soiling; it will also dry out the surface due to dried soaps capillary action with moisture. This product contains alkalis (sodium), which provide foaming, and a solvent (alcohol) as an aid to cleaning; these will further aggravate the drying out process due to there affinity with moisture.
2. Water doesn’t dry out leather; as once it’s been tanned it has fats and oils (part of the tanning process called - fat liquoring) sealed in by the finishing process, it is then pigmented (with a water-based paint) and then further ‘sealed’ with a polyurethane covering. Using water and soap to clean will not ‘dry-out leather (you are not cleaning leather but its covering) I will concede that detergent soap that is not rinsed away will dry out a surface due to the dried soaps capillary action with moisture, this will be further aggravated if the detergent contains a foaming surfactant as these are generally formulated with sodium.
3. With all cleaning products, always test a small, indiscrete area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material.
4. The harsh use of chemicals actually keeps dirt trapped in the fibres of the leather. If you abuse or neglect your leather, it won't survive. Keeping leather clean is important, but replacing any lost moisture is the key to preserving its useful life, flexibility, appearance and longevity.
a) Leather Soft Cleaner – (Non-Coated, Protected)
Leather Soft Cleaner is a mild, water-based cleaner that will not affect the Leather’s original properties or finish. It is designed to remove most soiling as well as water-based stains. Leather Soft Cleaner is solvent free and works without removing the finish or harming the Leather.
b) Strong Effect Cleaner - highly efficient for cleaning leather that is very dirty (will also clean ‘blue jean stains) and water based stains of any kind. Clothing dye n ormally shows as a greyish bloom in seat area. This is usually caused by dark dye transferring from clothing. Particularly avoid brand new (ie never been washed) denim jeans, damp knitwear etc (for regular cleaning use Soft Cleaner)
c) Alternative cleaning solution - use a formula that is used by one of the major tanneries to clean their leather - 3% Woolite, 10% Isopropyl alcohol and the balance distilled water.
d) The Ink Remover (Protected Leathers only) is designed for removal of recent (within 48 hours) ink contamination. Ink marks older than 3-5 days may not respond or will only be lightened. The biodegradable formula is very easy to use (wax-like stick container) and works well for all types of ink as well as lipstick - http://www.topoftheline.com
e) Mould Remover; (Non-Coated, P-Protected/Coated, N-Nubuck/Suede) you may notice dark or white blotches where two areas of the leather touch or areas not used. If the contamination is not removed, the fungus will dissolve the leather, forming small pits. Just like mould and mildew contamination in other areas, you cannot wash or shampoo it away. This only makes the problem worse. The fungus is caused by living organisms that must be killed before the leather is cleaned. This product is effective on most forms of bacterial or fungus growth.
Application Instructions:•Pre-test on an inconspicuous area to insure colour fastness.
•Wear latex gloves.
•Clean the surface of the leather with Soft or Strong Cleaner to remove any visible mould excrement.
•Gently rub a very small amount of product on the contamination.
•Allow the product to dry and wipe off with a soft cloth.
•Repeat these steps as necessary.
•After removal of the mould, re-clean the area with Leather Soft Cleaner.
•Allow to dry and apply Leather Protection Cream.
Top of the line - http://www.topoftheline.com
f) Leather Scratch/ Scuff Remover (Non-Coated Only)
Even the most pampered leather will age from abrasion (scuffs) and collect light scratches from the rivets of blue jeans, finger nails, pet claws, keys, boxes, and just about any item you place on its surface. This formula is designed to erase these light surface scratches and scuffs, by moving the surrounding dye to cover the area where the colour is missing
Application Instructions:
• Apply a small amount to your fingertip (we suggest using a plastic glove).
• Dab over the surrounding area, slowly working toward the damaged area until the scratch or scuff disappears.
• Do not wipe with a towel while this product is still damp!
• Allow to completely dry and apply Leather Protection Cream.
Top of the line - http://www.topoftheline.com
2. Soften (to produce a Patina or soft hand) –
All finished leathers (inc. covered) have already been permanently preserved in the tanning process and do not need conditioning products to replace oils etc maintenance should comprise simple cleaning and re-hydrating and protection.
One of the biggest complaints from convertible owners is premature leather aging (polyethylene cracking) from perspiration stains; perspiration is mainly salt, which equals a dried cracked leather covering
Hardened, cracked or peeled covered leather; the cause is usually from oils, either leather conditioners or body oils and perspiration that have permeated the surface and are dissolving the finish. This product is not a leather conditioner per se; Leather Master’s Vital (or as an alternative Aged Leather Revitalizer) penetrates the leather (except Nubuck) It’s a water-based product used to soften, re-hydrate and restore the leather’s patina, by making the larger droplets into a microscopically fine emulsion it can be readily absorbed into the leather fibres. It can also be used when doing repair work to help soften the area.
Once the leather surfaces have been cleaned, apply the product to a clean micro fibre towel and wipe a very, very thin even layer on the surface. It is better to apply several thin layers than a heavy application. Allow each layer to dry and be absorbed - Leather Master Vital Leather Softener - http://www.topoftheline.com
Use Leather Master’s Aged Leather Revitalizer This product will revitalize older leather and restore and maintain resiliency to leather that has become brittle and will soften stiff leather. Leather Vital penetrates the leather to soften and nourish. It isn't thick or full of oils like conditioners. It reaches deep into the hide, which is essential for suppleness recovery.
In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable.
A leather protection product would be far more effective than a ‘conditioner’ Being water-based it helps hydration by balancing the necessary moisture level of all leather types (except Nubuck). Although it’s primary purpose is to act as a barrier between the leather surface and any soils that may settle on it.
The keys to leather care are; keeping leather (a) hydrated (b) clean, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. A leather protection product is essential as it will protect the surface finish and makes dirt easier to clean off.
3. Protection –
Protection is an essential element in leather care; abrasive dirt / grit, brought in from the outside via the A/C system and ultra violet radiation (UVR) especially a Roadster’s upholstery. Protection should be applied the first day and thereafter 2 - 4 times per year (dependant upon local climate). It makes it easier to clean and remove any accidental spills, ink marks etc. Being water-based it helps hydration by balancing the necessary moisture level of all leather types (except Nubuck). Although it’s primary purpose is to act as a barrier between the leather surface and any soils that may settle on it. Do not use a weather / water proofing product, as this will not allow a water-based product to permeate.
There are many forms of dirt-
Dry soils-consist of dust and microscopic particles which act in a similar way to fine sandpaper on the leather finish, when subject to friction
Body oils –are the main culprits as micro-body oils (and suntan lotion) will also migrate through clothing and finished leathers, they tend to permeate the surface quickly. Of all the ‘dirt’, they can be the most damaging because the acids in the body oils will have a destructive action on polyurethane leather covering and pigmented leather finishes, causing them to break down over time.
This product will help to provide protection against ultra violet radiation (UVR) oil, water, and alcohol based stains, as well as providing resistance to the effects of daily soiling It places an invisible, breathable barrier between you and your leather. Protect your leather first, and then follow a routine of cleaning and re-protection, this way you are not actually cleaning the original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. Leather Master™ Protection –
Leather Master US - .http://www.topoftheline.com / or http://www.leatherworldtech.com/
Leather Master UK – http://www.leathermasteruk.com/
Upholstery leather given the proper care and protection will withstand all of the above; provided the loss by evaporation of its essential moisture is replenished to counteract drying and stiffening, and to maintain both flexibility and suppleness. Water-based products are able to permeate deep into the hide, which is essential for suppleness recovery. Upholstery leather should be routinely cleaned with a pH balanced, non-alkaline cleaner to loosen and lift grease, dirt and dust without overly drying the leather or affecting the hides natural pH. In addition to regular cleaning to remove abrasive debris and oils, leather requires regular replacement of its moisture (re-hydration)
Choose a product that does not clog the pores of perforated leather and does not contain harsh chemicals that can damage the protective covering or strip the pigmented dye. The overall objective is to maintain the appearance of the leather as it was from the factory.
Prevention is far better than correction - leather that has become cracked from inadequate or inappropriate care usually cannot be restored to its original state by most available products / methods. It is highly recommended that you fully clean, hydrate and protect auto interiors leather upholstery surfaces 3-4 times per year (dependant upon climatic conditions. It is much easier to practice prevention than it is to correct major problems after the fact
Compare automobile upholstery [finished pigmented leather] to a vehicles paint surface with a clear coat;
1. A base material (metal) with a colour coat of water-based polymer paint
[Leather hide pigmented with a water-based polymer resin]
2. A water-based polymer clear coat to provide protection
[Water-based polyethylene clear coating to provide protection]
3. Paint doesn’t need oils to feed it (whatever Zymol says) nor does Leather; they are not living things.
[Leather was removed from a dead animal, it’s then fat-liquored to preserve its oils and then sealed and pigmented (water-based paint) so it doesn’t need oils to feed or condition it, even if they could permeate the various coverings]
As the materials and production methods that are used on automobiles change; we need to adapt to them and adjust products used and their application methodologies to keep pace with them
Leather Care / Cleaning / Maintenance–my first question when asked for recommendations on leather care / maintenance is; what kind of leather finish is it? There are three main types of leather used in automotive upholstery; (1) Pigmented (2) Natural (Uncovered) (3) polyurethane Covered and (4) Unfinished (Nubuck, Alacantra)
Choose a product that does not leave a powdery residue around the stitching does not clog the pores of perforated leather and does not contain harsh chemicals that can damage the protective covering or strip the pigmented dye. The overall objective is to maintain the appearance of the leather as it was from the factory.
Identifying characteristics- classified in accordance to their cleaning codes and labels into these basic categories: Before undertaking any cleaning or stain removal remedies it is essential to identify the type of leather involved;
1. Pigmented: The colour pigmented polyurethane coating may be embossed with a grain pattern for visual effect. Pigmented leather cannot absorb wax, most liquids and oils because of the protective properties of the finish. Since the leather hide is coated in a synthetic finish, when treating the leather, you are actually only treating the finish coating, you will need to use a product that is chemically formulated to treat the synthetic coating and not the hide itself. This is also the least expensive way of applying a leather dye (used mainly by both American and Japanese car manufactures) European vehicles (Rolls Royce, Jaguar, Ferrari, Aston-Martin, Bentley) are usually upholstered with vat-dyed leather.
2. Natural leather : (uncovered ): has a random shade colours and grain pattern; lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily)
3. Protected / Coated: This type of leather is also known as coated or covered. The majority of automotive upholstery is protected leather. These leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance. The heavier pigments can create much darker colours. Protected leather has a substantial finish applied that makes the leather more resistant to heavy wear and stains. The heavier pigments and finish do affect the softness and scent, so these leathers often don't feel or smell like real leather. These leathers are more common in the automotive industry. As the top surface has a high polyurethane finish normal leather creams should NOT be used.
To determine if your leather is protected with polyurethane covering; lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter colour, or place a few drops of water on the upholstery surface; if it ‘beads’ it’s a pigmented polyurethane coated finish. Liquids will not penetrate protected leather. These leathers are more common in the automotive industry
4. Nubuck (unfinished leather)
Suede is not commonly found in vehicles, however, a synthetic known as Alcantara® is commonly found in sport luxury vehicles on the steering wheel, armrests and seat inserts both for visual purposes and grip (on the seats and steering wheel). Similar to unfinished leather it is highly absorbent. These actually leather hides where the surface has been brushed, and have created a texture similar to velvet on leather. Many people confuse these with suede leather. Suede is the flesh side of a piece of leather, and Nubuck is an effect that is done to the grain side. This brushing actually breaks the surface and opens up the leather even more making it incredibly soft. The brushing also makes the leather even more absorbent than aniline leathers.
Natural leather (pigmented uncovered): has a random shade colours and grain pattern; (Rolls-Royce, Aston Martin, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Porsches, pre-Ford Jaguar, Mercedes-Benz (premium leather package) BMW, etc) it will scratch easily; water drops will darken its colour (temporarily) these leathers are coloured with transparent dyes which enable you to see the actual grain and markings. The most common process is to spray a wax finish on their surface which only gives short term water repellence.
To determine if your leather is unprotected, lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour, or if leather conditioners or water darken the hide. Since aniline leather has no coating, it can become dry and requires more maintenance care.
Protected / Coated: This type of leather is also known as coated / covered / or painted. The majority of automotive leathers are manufactured from protected leather. These leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance. The heavier pigments can create much darker colours. Protected leather has a substantial finish applied that makes the leather more resistant to heavy wear and stains. The heavier pigments and finish do affect the softness and scent, so these leathers often don't feel or smell like real leather.
1. (Coated or Covered) Leather:
This is a new development in using split leather. It is produced from the lower split by first melting a type of glue on the surface, then rolling on a film of coloured polyurethane. It normally is produced in darker colours and when stretched it lightens. It also scratches quite easily. This type of leather is now coming on to the furniture market but has been used for automotive upholstery, handbags and belts for some time. As the top surface has a high polyurethane finish normal leather creams should NOT be used.
Many people are unaware of the fact that since the late ‘80s early ‘90s many of the newer domestic cars and some imports (US) do not use natural leather hides anymore. Approximately 80% of vehicle manufacturers have used (thermoplastic) polyurethane covered leather for their interior upholstery. Vehicle leather upholstery is made from natural hides, chrome tanned and uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, which besides body oil is leathers worst enemy.
The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, this is further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system.
This type of automotive upholstery finish should not be considered a natural leather hide as far as care and its maintenance is concerned, but treated as a vinyl, only requiring that you maintain its moisture and protect it from ultra violet (UV) radiation. A water-based cleaner will permeate the polyurethane covering as its molecules are much smaller (oil has larger molecules than water and are unable to penetrate so oil will just sit on the surface) As the top surface has a high polyurethane finish normal leather creams should NOT be used.
Leather Conditioners:
I have discussed this issue with some people in the leather care products industry and haven't received a definitive answer. My issues are (a) how much conditioner will get through the thick polyurethane top coat on the leather (b) a chrome tanned leather hide is sealed at the tannery and then pigmented; what could a conditioner do for the hide?
Leather Protection is far more viable and will provide better long-term benefits than a conditioner as so many so called leather conditioners utilize chemical solvents in order to facilitate penetration of there oils; this has a detrimental effect of the polyethylene covering causing fissures (cracking). If your leather upholstery is becoming inflexible use Leather Master’s Vital, as leather requires re-hydration (moisture replacement) not a leather conditioner, as most of these contain oils and / or wax.
Using oil on leather that is cracked may cause the water-based pigment to loose its adhesion, making further restoration very difficult if not impossible.
An aqueous emulsion (water / oil for surface lubrication) achieves these objectives: polyurethane penetration and leather re-hydration, absorption and retention in the hide. A water-based product accomplishes this with an emulsion of micro droplets of oil (for surface lubrication) and water that permeate the leather finish and / or the polyurethane as the emulsions molecular structure is smaller than the molecules of the finished leather or the polyurethane covering.
Water unlike other organic or hydrocarbon-based solvents, is non-flammable, odourless, non-toxic and non-sensitizing to the skin and it doesn’t impart a greasy or tacky feel to the surface of the leather. In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable.
The keys to leather care are; keeping leather (a) hydrated (b) clean, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. A leather protection product is essential as it will protect the surface finish and makes dirt easier to clean off.
Don’t allow grit, dirt or dust to build up to excessive levels as this could have an abrasive affect. Combined with body weight and movement these cause abrasive friction against the leather and greatly increases wear.
Areas which are in contact with your skin and head, for example arms and backrests, car steering wheels etc. should be cleaned regularly, as perspiration breaks down the finish and pigment very quickly. A wipe over with a damp cloth on a regular basis (every week/two weeks) is recommended to remove surface dust and dirt and add moisture to the leather.
Do not spray a cleaner directly on the leather. Use an applicator sponge or cloth to apply the cleaning solution. Spraying a cleaner on hot leather can cause spotting and discolorations. Please remember, that by rubbing hard on the leather surface, you will only push the dirt deeper into the leather
Leather brush - this is a palm pump type design, so you can pour the cleaning solution in the handle. Simply pour your favourite interior upholstery cleaner in the dispenser and push down on the rubber lid. The pressure activates a miniature pump which forces the liquid out to the bristles. The brush's thick, soft bristles are flagged (puffed) so it will not scratch delicate leather http://www.topoftheline.com.
Methodology-
1.Use a soft brush to remove any dust or grit from the seams and vacuum the seating areas dust
2.The first step was to wipe the seats down with water to help the cleaning agent breakdown the dirt.
3.Apply a cleaning solution with a palm pump type brush or a double mesh woven micro fibre, made to be safe and scratch-free for all leather and vinyl finishes - http://poorboysworld.com/microfiber.htm
3a. Using a sponge, apply a small amount of Leather Master™ Soft / Strong Cleaner as necessary and gently agitate it until it foams, then remove with a damp micro fibre cloth
4.Apply to one area at a time (i.e. a seat back). To remove stubborn dirt or grime gently agitate the surface with a boar's hair cleaning brush (this will not harm the leather) then use a clean, damp Micro fibre towel to rinse.
5.Woolite® has a number of issues that do not enhance long term quality care of interior car parts and components. Using a detergent that is meant to be flush rinsed (i.e. rinsed until it runs clear) in a situation were this is not possible, is not recommended as when it dries it will attract dirt and contribute to re-soiling.
Any detergent soap that is not rinsed away will dry out a surface due to the dried soaps capillary action with moisture; this will be further aggravated if the detergent contains a foaming surfactant as these are generally formulated with sodium. This will adversely affect the polyurethane covering and cause the pigmentation to lose its bond to the leather surface.
Stain removal products –
Leather is a natural material and varies greatly between manufacturer processing and dyeing procedures, age of leather and individual hides. This is why it's so important to pre-test each cleaner for its suitability on an inconspicuous area prior to us
Notes:
1. Woolite® has a number of issues that do not lend themselves to the long-term quality care of leather upholstery and interior components. Using a detergent that is meant to be flush rinsed (i.e. rinsed until it runs clear) in a situation were this is not possible, is not recommended as when it dries it will attract dirt and contribute to re-soiling; it will also dry out the surface due to dried soaps capillary action with moisture. This product contains alkalis (sodium), which provide foaming, and a solvent (alcohol) as an aid to cleaning; these will further aggravate the drying out process due to there affinity with moisture.
2. Water doesn’t dry out leather; as once it’s been tanned it has fats and oils (part of the tanning process called - fat liquoring) sealed in by the finishing process, it is then pigmented (with a water-based paint) and then further ‘sealed’ with a polyurethane covering. Using water and soap to clean will not ‘dry-out leather (you are not cleaning leather but its covering) I will concede that detergent soap that is not rinsed away will dry out a surface due to the dried soaps capillary action with moisture, this will be further aggravated if the detergent contains a foaming surfactant as these are generally formulated with sodium.
3. With all cleaning products, always test a small, indiscrete area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material.
4. The harsh use of chemicals actually keeps dirt trapped in the fibres of the leather. If you abuse or neglect your leather, it won't survive. Keeping leather clean is important, but replacing any lost moisture is the key to preserving its useful life, flexibility, appearance and longevity.
a) Leather Soft Cleaner – (Non-Coated, Protected)
Leather Soft Cleaner is a mild, water-based cleaner that will not affect the Leather’s original properties or finish. It is designed to remove most soiling as well as water-based stains. Leather Soft Cleaner is solvent free and works without removing the finish or harming the Leather.
b) Strong Effect Cleaner - highly efficient for cleaning leather that is very dirty (will also clean ‘blue jean stains) and water based stains of any kind. Clothing dye n ormally shows as a greyish bloom in seat area. This is usually caused by dark dye transferring from clothing. Particularly avoid brand new (ie never been washed) denim jeans, damp knitwear etc (for regular cleaning use Soft Cleaner)
c) Alternative cleaning solution - use a formula that is used by one of the major tanneries to clean their leather - 3% Woolite, 10% Isopropyl alcohol and the balance distilled water.
d) The Ink Remover (Protected Leathers only) is designed for removal of recent (within 48 hours) ink contamination. Ink marks older than 3-5 days may not respond or will only be lightened. The biodegradable formula is very easy to use (wax-like stick container) and works well for all types of ink as well as lipstick - http://www.topoftheline.com
e) Mould Remover; (Non-Coated, P-Protected/Coated, N-Nubuck/Suede) you may notice dark or white blotches where two areas of the leather touch or areas not used. If the contamination is not removed, the fungus will dissolve the leather, forming small pits. Just like mould and mildew contamination in other areas, you cannot wash or shampoo it away. This only makes the problem worse. The fungus is caused by living organisms that must be killed before the leather is cleaned. This product is effective on most forms of bacterial or fungus growth.
Application Instructions:•Pre-test on an inconspicuous area to insure colour fastness.
•Wear latex gloves.
•Clean the surface of the leather with Soft or Strong Cleaner to remove any visible mould excrement.
•Gently rub a very small amount of product on the contamination.
•Allow the product to dry and wipe off with a soft cloth.
•Repeat these steps as necessary.
•After removal of the mould, re-clean the area with Leather Soft Cleaner.
•Allow to dry and apply Leather Protection Cream.
Top of the line - http://www.topoftheline.com
f) Leather Scratch/ Scuff Remover (Non-Coated Only)
Even the most pampered leather will age from abrasion (scuffs) and collect light scratches from the rivets of blue jeans, finger nails, pet claws, keys, boxes, and just about any item you place on its surface. This formula is designed to erase these light surface scratches and scuffs, by moving the surrounding dye to cover the area where the colour is missing
Application Instructions:
• Apply a small amount to your fingertip (we suggest using a plastic glove).
• Dab over the surrounding area, slowly working toward the damaged area until the scratch or scuff disappears.
• Do not wipe with a towel while this product is still damp!
• Allow to completely dry and apply Leather Protection Cream.
Top of the line - http://www.topoftheline.com
2. Soften (to produce a Patina or soft hand) –
All finished leathers (inc. covered) have already been permanently preserved in the tanning process and do not need conditioning products to replace oils etc maintenance should comprise simple cleaning and re-hydrating and protection.
One of the biggest complaints from convertible owners is premature leather aging (polyethylene cracking) from perspiration stains; perspiration is mainly salt, which equals a dried cracked leather covering
Hardened, cracked or peeled covered leather; the cause is usually from oils, either leather conditioners or body oils and perspiration that have permeated the surface and are dissolving the finish. This product is not a leather conditioner per se; Leather Master’s Vital (or as an alternative Aged Leather Revitalizer) penetrates the leather (except Nubuck) It’s a water-based product used to soften, re-hydrate and restore the leather’s patina, by making the larger droplets into a microscopically fine emulsion it can be readily absorbed into the leather fibres. It can also be used when doing repair work to help soften the area.
Once the leather surfaces have been cleaned, apply the product to a clean micro fibre towel and wipe a very, very thin even layer on the surface. It is better to apply several thin layers than a heavy application. Allow each layer to dry and be absorbed - Leather Master Vital Leather Softener - http://www.topoftheline.com
Use Leather Master’s Aged Leather Revitalizer This product will revitalize older leather and restore and maintain resiliency to leather that has become brittle and will soften stiff leather. Leather Vital penetrates the leather to soften and nourish. It isn't thick or full of oils like conditioners. It reaches deep into the hide, which is essential for suppleness recovery.
In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable.
A leather protection product would be far more effective than a ‘conditioner’ Being water-based it helps hydration by balancing the necessary moisture level of all leather types (except Nubuck). Although it’s primary purpose is to act as a barrier between the leather surface and any soils that may settle on it.
The keys to leather care are; keeping leather (a) hydrated (b) clean, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. A leather protection product is essential as it will protect the surface finish and makes dirt easier to clean off.
3. Protection –
Protection is an essential element in leather care; abrasive dirt / grit, brought in from the outside via the A/C system and ultra violet radiation (UVR) especially a Roadster’s upholstery. Protection should be applied the first day and thereafter 2 - 4 times per year (dependant upon local climate). It makes it easier to clean and remove any accidental spills, ink marks etc. Being water-based it helps hydration by balancing the necessary moisture level of all leather types (except Nubuck). Although it’s primary purpose is to act as a barrier between the leather surface and any soils that may settle on it. Do not use a weather / water proofing product, as this will not allow a water-based product to permeate.
There are many forms of dirt-
Dry soils-consist of dust and microscopic particles which act in a similar way to fine sandpaper on the leather finish, when subject to friction
Body oils –are the main culprits as micro-body oils (and suntan lotion) will also migrate through clothing and finished leathers, they tend to permeate the surface quickly. Of all the ‘dirt’, they can be the most damaging because the acids in the body oils will have a destructive action on polyurethane leather covering and pigmented leather finishes, causing them to break down over time.
This product will help to provide protection against ultra violet radiation (UVR) oil, water, and alcohol based stains, as well as providing resistance to the effects of daily soiling It places an invisible, breathable barrier between you and your leather. Protect your leather first, and then follow a routine of cleaning and re-protection, this way you are not actually cleaning the original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. Leather Master™ Protection –
Leather Master US - .http://www.topoftheline.com / or http://www.leatherworldtech.com/
Leather Master UK – http://www.leathermasteruk.com/
Last edited by TOGWT; 02-08-2008 at 01:08 PM.
02-08-2008, 03:50 PM
#3
Former Sponsor
..........and quite a few plugs for Top of the Line!
But well stated, prevention is the best method of protection......Keep clean and conditioned is really whats important. And dont cleaners more then needed when a dampened MF is suffice......
But well stated, prevention is the best method of protection......Keep clean and conditioned is really whats important. And dont cleaners more then needed when a dampened MF is suffice......
Last edited by exceldetail; 02-08-2008 at 03:52 PM.
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