Is it worth to buy 198k Type-S over my 145k Base?
12-28-2018, 03:49 PM
#41
Suzuka Master
OFF-TOPIC: Does anyone have any advice about the following issues?
1) Why does the rpms fluctuate and headlights dim when I operate power windows at idle? It's like I am giving it a bit of gas.
2) Why does my temp gauge only goes up to 1/4th level while all other TL's gauge goes up to almost 1/2 level?
3) What all bushings do I need to replace when doing the shocks and springs besides top hats?
4) Do I need to replace the other LCA Bushings when I replace the compliance?
5) My car is sluggish half the time, no codes... can it be the oxygen sensor? I get 24 mpg on highway when I drive constantly at 80 mph.
6) I guess I will have to replace the compressor in the near future since it cycles every 15 minutes...
7) Are the jerks while downshifting around 40 mph and 20 mph related to tranny mounts?
Thank you.
1) Why does the rpms fluctuate and headlights dim when I operate power windows at idle? It's like I am giving it a bit of gas.
2) Why does my temp gauge only goes up to 1/4th level while all other TL's gauge goes up to almost 1/2 level?
3) What all bushings do I need to replace when doing the shocks and springs besides top hats?
4) Do I need to replace the other LCA Bushings when I replace the compliance?
5) My car is sluggish half the time, no codes... can it be the oxygen sensor? I get 24 mpg on highway when I drive constantly at 80 mph.
6) I guess I will have to replace the compressor in the near future since it cycles every 15 minutes...
7) Are the jerks while downshifting around 40 mph and 20 mph related to tranny mounts?
Thank you.
Congrats on your decision of restore your ride instead of another replacement.
1. Make sure your battery terminals is good (corrosion free) and tight and battery still good, you can get a decent battery check at your local autozone or whatever auto parts store near you. IF everything check out fine then its a good idea to get the alternator tested.
2. forget about the temp gage, its only tell you range NOT exact temp, the TL coolant temp should be reading 85F on highway cruise and around 90F city driving during hot summer day. You will have to get a scanner that capture live data. IF the coolant temp show anything below that I would recommend you replace the thermostat. I use Blue Driver for my scanner.
3. Top hat and bump stop, if you want go extra miles then replace the bushing that your assembly bolt to the lower control arm.
4. O2 sensor could goes bad over time and not throwing a CEL code, there are many discussion about this topic within the forum, google search is your friend
.5. Compressor cycle time can be varries depend on your climate setting and external temp, if it cycling meaning its working properly. Sign of bad compressor will be sudden lost of cooling power (blowing mild cool air without your control input) and all the sudden it back to cooling as normal. Trust me you will feel it, BTW its normal for the compressor to cut off if you WOT pass 4k RPM.
6. Down shift jerking can be address with 3x3 and replace pressure switch, again search is your best friend
. Be careful with the ATF drain and fill duration because your mileage.
The following users liked this post:
ThatBlackTL (12-28-2018)
12-28-2018, 04:18 PM
#42
Advanced
Thread Starter
Congrats on your decision of restore your ride instead of another replacement.
1. Make sure your battery terminals is good (corrosion free) and tight and battery still good, you can get a decent battery check at your local autozone or whatever auto parts store near you. IF everything check out fine then its a good idea to get the alternator tested.
2. forget about the temp gage, its only tell you range NOT exact temp, the TL coolant temp should be reading 85F on highway cruise and around 90F city driving during hot summer day. You will have to get a scanner that capture live data. IF the coolant temp show anything below that I would recommend you replace the thermostat. I use Blue Driver for my scanner.
3. Top hat and bump stop, if you want go extra miles then replace the bushing that your assembly bolt to the lower control arm.
4. O2 sensor could goes bad over time and not throwing a CEL code, there are many discussion about this topic within the forum, google search is your friend.
5. Compressor cycle time can be varries depend on your climate setting and external temp, if it cycling meaning its working properly. Sign of bad compressor will be sudden lost of cooling power (blowing mild cool air without your control input) and all the sudden it back to cooling as normal. Trust me you will feel it, BTW its normal for the compressor to cut off if you WOT pass 4k RPM.
6. Down shift jerking can be address with 3x3 and replace pressure switch, again search is your best friend. Be careful with the ATF drain and fill duration because your mileage.
1. Make sure your battery terminals is good (corrosion free) and tight and battery still good, you can get a decent battery check at your local autozone or whatever auto parts store near you. IF everything check out fine then its a good idea to get the alternator tested.
2. forget about the temp gage, its only tell you range NOT exact temp, the TL coolant temp should be reading 85F on highway cruise and around 90F city driving during hot summer day. You will have to get a scanner that capture live data. IF the coolant temp show anything below that I would recommend you replace the thermostat. I use Blue Driver for my scanner.
3. Top hat and bump stop, if you want go extra miles then replace the bushing that your assembly bolt to the lower control arm.
4. O2 sensor could goes bad over time and not throwing a CEL code, there are many discussion about this topic within the forum, google search is your friend
.5. Compressor cycle time can be varries depend on your climate setting and external temp, if it cycling meaning its working properly. Sign of bad compressor will be sudden lost of cooling power (blowing mild cool air without your control input) and all the sudden it back to cooling as normal. Trust me you will feel it, BTW its normal for the compressor to cut off if you WOT pass 4k RPM.
6. Down shift jerking can be address with 3x3 and replace pressure switch, again search is your best friend
. Be careful with the ATF drain and fill duration because your mileage.So, I took the car to a very good AC shop today. They are honest people and I have had great experience there.
They did the pressure test to find out any leaks or if it was low on R134a and they found both the compressor and condensor leaking.
They were not at all pushy and told me that it is still working so I could get few months out of it.
Just when I decided to restore the TL, this comes.
I honestly don't know what should I do now with the restoration.
12-28-2018, 07:43 PM
#43
Suzuka Master
The diagnostic from your shop explain why your car "lack of power". The compressor trying to keep up with HVAC setting by cycling more often and has to work harder which rob your engine power. I would spend extra $$$ at adress the HVAC issues since you know all the quirts your TL have.
I wouldn't get another TL unless its a 100k miles TL with good maint records.
I wouldn't get another TL unless its a 100k miles TL with good maint records.
12-28-2018, 09:05 PM
#45
Advanced
Thread Starter
The diagnostic from your shop explain why your car "lack of power". The compressor trying to keep up with HVAC setting by cycling more often and has to work harder which rob your engine power. I would spend extra $$$ at adress the HVAC issues since you know all the quirts your TL have.
I wouldn't get another TL unless its a 100k miles TL with good maint records.
I wouldn't get another TL unless its a 100k miles TL with good maint records.
As I said, I test drove 4 one-owner TL around 100k miles and two of them were really good but out of budget and other two of them had their own set of issues.
Now that I have owned a TL, I would either keep this and let the compressor go bad until I restore the front end or sell this and travel everywhere by bus, which would really suck.
Even if I opt for a different car with similar power, I will be at a disadvantage since I won't know the car as well. And my budget would only permit cars similar to the one I own.
What I'm afraid about is if I start restoring this TL and other big expenses pop up.
12-28-2018, 09:08 PM
#46
Advanced
Thread Starter
Most of the restoration is still left... and two of my 255/40 motivos had feathering issues which I think is the cause of my intermittent vibrations at interstate speeds.
My car is so sound below 50 mph which I hope would be the case above 50 mph where all hell breaks loose. It vibrates, wobbles and shakes at different speeds.
01-09-2019, 03:44 PM
#47
Advanced
Thread Starter
OFF-TOPIC:
Hey guys,
I read somewhere that denso is the OEM manufacturer for compressor and condenser for 3G TL and both are available for under $300 on amazon.
Is this correct? and would you guys advice on going with denso?
Hey guys,
I read somewhere that denso is the OEM manufacturer for compressor and condenser for 3G TL and both are available for under $300 on amazon.
Is this correct? and would you guys advice on going with denso?
01-09-2019, 04:06 PM
#49
Advanced
Thread Starter
Also, I need to read more about the infamous 'Black Death' and what all parts do I need to replace if I'm replacing these.
01-09-2019, 04:12 PM
#50
Null and proud of it
Black death usually refers to dead and won't work at all, but IDK if you're beginning to experience this or not, but I've heard some people say that they went to turn on A/C and it's just dead, no warning.
You'll need some parts, IDK exactly which ones, but I'd say maybe atleast all lines and maybe the condensor along with compressor, basically any moving part that operates the A/C and anything the refrigerant flows through, but I'm only thinking this, it may not be true.
You'll need some parts, IDK exactly which ones, but I'd say maybe atleast all lines and maybe the condensor along with compressor, basically any moving part that operates the A/C and anything the refrigerant flows through, but I'm only thinking this, it may not be true.
The following users liked this post:
ThatBlackTL (01-09-2019)
01-09-2019, 04:32 PM
#51
Advanced
Thread Starter
Black death usually refers to dead and won't work at all, but IDK if you're beginning to experience this or not, but I've heard some people say that they went to turn on A/C and it's just dead, no warning.
You'll need some parts, IDK exactly which ones, but I'd say maybe atleast all lines and maybe the condensor along with compressor, basically any moving part that operates the A/C and anything the refrigerant flows through, but I'm only thinking this, it may not be true.
You'll need some parts, IDK exactly which ones, but I'd say maybe atleast all lines and maybe the condensor along with compressor, basically any moving part that operates the A/C and anything the refrigerant flows through, but I'm only thinking this, it may not be true.
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