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I need to make a big decision and your advice might help.
I bought a 2008 Acura TL 3.2 with 129k miles for $6500 in January 2018. I’m the third owner. I did all the inspection I knew at the time but I guess, it was not enough as this was my first car buying experience. The 105k service was performed at the dealership.
After I bought the car, I had some savings left so I replaced the leaking radiator, brake rotors and pads, pressure switches, air filter, cabin filter, did 3x3 transmission fluid drain and refill with 2.5 quarts redline D4 and 1 quart type-f, oil change, brake fluid flush, power steering fluid flush, intake manifold and throttle body cleaning, one of the upstream oxygen sensor and new 255/40/17 Nitto Motivo.
The engine and transmission were and still are in really good condition, but the overall car is not. It needs at least $2500 to replace axles, endlinks, engine and transmission mounts, steering rack, shocks, new wheels, heater control valve, all of the LCA bushings and tie rods.
The car is currently at 145k. Now, I found a 2007 TL Type-S for $5k which I can probably bring down to $4.5k. The only problem is, it has 198k miles but it is a 1-owner car with all the services done at 5-6k miles interval and 105k service done at Acura dealership. The interior and exterior are in really great condition, probably better than mine. The engine and transmission seem to be in the same condition as my TL. The transmission probably shifts less smooth than my car but that maybe because of the pressure switches and redline fluid.
The car seems to be more mechanically sound than my TL with 145k. The Type-S also needs new bushings, shocks and brakes, but the axles, all the mounts, steering rack, wheels, and all other things that need replacing in my car, are fine. I can probably sell my car for around the same price and buy this car. The only thing I am worried about is the mileage.
Sorry for the long post. I am planning to keep the car for at least three years. I would like to hear your opinions.
Why is the Type-S so cheap? When you bought the base model for $6500 with that many issues, shouldn't you be suspicious as to why the Type S is being sold for $5000? Any water damage, etc? These cars run forever! I picked up a 04 Base with 190K and it with proper maintenance, I have confidence it will run for another 100K. But if everything checks out, its a No brainer! Get the Type S!
Why is the Type-S so cheap? When you bought the base model for $6500 with that many issues, shouldn't you be suspicious as to why the Type S is being sold for $5000? Any water damage, etc? These cars run forever! I picked up a 04 Base with 190K and it with proper maintenance, I have confidence it will run for another 100K. But if everything checks out, its a No brainer! Get the Type S!
The original price was $6000 but I guess, no one was buying it because of the mileage and now, it has been reduced to 5250. I will still take it to a mechanic for an inspection, but this time I'll take it to a good one. Last time, I took the TL I bought to firestone and they didn't do a good inspection.
Why is the Type-S so cheap? When you bought the base model for $6500 with that many issues, shouldn't you be suspicious as to why the Type S is being sold for $5000? Any water damage, etc? These cars run forever! I picked up a 04 Base with 190K and it with proper maintenance, I have confidence it will run for another 100K. But if everything checks out, its a No brainer! Get the Type S!
Also, I don't think it has water damage. (How would one able to tell if it has any?). It has a clean carfax and as far as my first short drive, it drives really good for a 198k mile car. Even, the motor mounts looks new and the vibration is so much less than my own car.
There is this just weird and loud thud whenever I come to a complete stop. Any idea what could it be?
Also, I don't think it has water damage. (How would one able to tell if it has any?). It has a clean carfax and as far as my first short drive, it drives really good for a 198k mile car. Even, the motor mounts looks new and the vibration is so much less than my own car.
There is this just weird and loud thud whenever I come to a complete stop. Any idea what could it be?
Unless there's paperwork to show that mounter mounts has been replaced, I'm willing to bet, that its from the motor mounts. The mounts on these cars have about 100K lifespan. The front and rear mounts usually go first before the side mount. Good luck!
i bought my 08 TLS with 204k for $4,600 towards the end of the summer and it was a once owner garage kept car with all maintenance records since new. Yours sounds a lot Ike mine. test drove the TLS twice before pulling the trigger. I have not had time to drive the car since and often thought of just selling it, but it is a fine ride and too tempting to not keep.
i bought my 08 TLS with 204k for $4,600 towards the end of the summer and it was a once owner garage kept car with all maintenance records since new. Yours sounds a lot Ike mine. test drove the TLS twice before pulling the trigger. I have not had time to drive the car since and often thought of just selling it, but it is a fine ride and too tempting to not keep.
If you don't mind me asking, why do want to sell it? do you have any major problems?
If you don't mind me asking, why do want to sell it? do you have any major problems?
I love the car. I bought it drove it home and it is just in the garage, Runs great and everything works, Might need a motor mount or 2 and possibly a transmission mount.
The car is great, I just have not had the funds to take care of the little issues. Bought it because I always wanted a 07-08 TLS. One owner and serious service records and drives quiet straight and tight and everything works, was a want purchase and not a need. Sold my 03 Camry SE and 01 Acura RL. Thought I was getting the best of those 2 cars with the 08 TLS
I love the car. I bought it drove it home and it is just in the garage, Runs great and everything works, Might need a motor mount or 2 and possibly a transmission mount.
The car is great, I just have not had the funds to take care of the little issues. Bought it because I always wanted a 07-08 TLS. One owner and serious service records and drives quiet straight and tight and everything works, was a want purchase and not a need. Sold my 03 Camry SE and 01 Acura RL. Thought I was getting the best of those 2 cars with the 08 TLS
Ohh that's great, Congratulations on the new car. This TL-S is 2 hour drive from where I live. I'm going again this saturday and I'm going to take a long test drive.
Not a bad car, console metal side trim is really worn, steering wheel wear, curbed wheels not bad but scraped, Michelin tires, front bumper needs paint, and the paint looks like it could be oxidized in the pictures. Really cosmetic items so just make certain mechanics good.
Not a bad car, console metal side trim is really worn, steering wheel wear, curbed wheels not bad but scraped, Michelin tires, front bumper needs paint, and the paint looks like it could be oxidized in the pictures. Really cosmetic items so just make certain mechanics good.
Yeah, it is not a bad car. Thanks for reviewing it.
The shop mentioned color fading but I didn't get the chance to see the car in daylight as I reached the shop 20 minutes before their closing time.
I'm gonna make sure there are no mechanical issues and also, I need to find that thudding. I'll be changing the wheels and tires if I decide to buy it.
Also, don't know when the timing belt was changed, but if at normal mileage, it will be needing replacement again shortly, another expense.
The timing belt was done around 103k. So it'll be due in 10k miles. That's why I was thinking I could bring the price down to $4.5k. And also, if the thud is because of the motor mount, then I can even bring that up for discount.
Hey guys,
As it was Saturday, I didn't get the chance to take the car to the mechanic. But I took a 40 minutes test drive today.
During my drive, I found out the following:
THE BAD:
1) There is a jerk shifting from P to D or R to D. (A little more than I have in my TL)
2) There was this squealing from passenger side when I first started the car in the morning but went away in few seconds.
3) The coolant was almost empty, so I suspect there is a leak. (My TL had a leak in Heater control valve)
4) The car has some wobbles within many different speed ranges. The kind of wobble you feel throughout the whole car. Maybe bent rims.
5) There is wobble during acceleration in the floorboard and steering wheel which is identical to my TL which I think is due to the axles. (My TL needs a driver’s axle).
6) During interstate speeds, there are some vibrations when you let off the acceleration.
7) Then there is the driver's power window which you need to hold the button until it opens. But it goes down fine with one click.
8) There is this rattle in one of the interior trims which I hear even when the music is on that I need to figure out.
9) The steering is very hard at very low speeds like 5mph. There is also a dead spot. The same hard steering was present in my TL which went away with fluid flush.
10) The brake rotors and pads need to be replaced.
THE GOOD:
1) The thud was gone after driving for 10 minutes. I think it was related to brakes.
2) The car shifts gears without any jerks that is present in my TL especially the downshifts that even my passengers notice in my car.
3) The AC compressor doesn't cycle frequently and when it does, it's barely noticeable. In my TL, the whole car vibrates when it does. Also, the AC doesn't take too much power. In my TL, when I switch on the AC, it becomes a camry.
4) The ride is much more composed. I was able to carry at least 15 mph more on the ramps.
5) The headlights and taillights are in really good condition. The headlights in my TL are 5 times foggier than this and the taillights have a crack so when it rains, they also become foggy.
6) The steering comes back completely on its own after a turn which is not the case in my TL.
7) THE SPEED: I cannot explain this. Either my car lost many hp or the TL-S is just much faster. That power is just intoxicating.
Now,
1) Their final price is $4.9k and they are ready to take my car for $4.6k. They say they already brought it down from $6k so they can't go further down.
2) They also said that the hood and fenders were repainted because the clear coat was peeling off.
3) They have their own workshop. So, they offered to do the timing belt job for $400 with Aisin kit.
4) I know there are many wobbles and vibrations, but similar wobbles were also present in my TL. Since I was restoring my TL, I think it is better to restore the Type-S and with the front suspension rehab, I might get rid of all the vibrations.
Make sure the TB kit includes all tensioners and other items serviced during TB job.
Jerk from P to R to D is probably tranny mounts, my 2008 @105K did this.
Replace pressure switches too.
Window control switch is probably bad.
Vibration when off throttle can be a number of things, in my 2007 RDX, it was the front struts.
Bent wheels? If you're planning on swapping them soon not a big deal. (OEM replicas are just under $400 on eBay and many used examples FS on forum, Gatr has a set for sale, I think. However--------
(Good time to go aftermarket!)
Axles commonly fail on TLs, so it seems.
A few other thimgs I didn't address. But overall, it will need some TLC but it should be a nice car!
$300 isn't much to gamble with, honestly, as long as you feel this car will not become problematic in wasys your current base isnt. Other than that, not much to loose, and a whole lot to gain, if done properly!!!
Make sure the TB kit includes all tensioners and other items serviced during TB job.
Jerk from P to R to D is probably tranny mounts, my 2008 @105K did this.
Replace pressure switches too.
Window control switch is probably bad.
Vibration when off throttle can be a number of things, in my 2007 RDX, it was the front struts.
Bent wheels? If you're planning on swapping them soon not a big deal. (OEM replicas are just under $400 on eBay and many used examples FS on forum, Gatr has a set for sale, I think. However--------
(Good time to go aftermarket!)
Axles commonly fail on TLs, so it seems.
A few other thimgs I didn't address. But overall, it will need some TLC but it should be a nice car!
$300 isn't much to gamble with, honestly, as long as you feel this car will not become problematic in wasys your current base isnt. Other than that, not much to loose, and a whole lot to gain, if done properly!!!
Yeah, that's what I was thinking. $300 is not much especially when the major components are in better or same condition as my base.
Planning to go aftermarket wheels in the near future with whole front end rehab.
I already have the tranny mounts which i bought for my base that i can use now.
The Aisin kit includes everything with a water pump.
Since base TL is my first car, I made many mistakes with that car which I can learn from and do properly this time.
During my time of ownership of my base, I have read countless threads here and learnt a lot which is going to help.
You know the inner workings of the TL, and like you said, the TypeS may need some more residual maintenance, but is in better condition overall. And it's a better car.
Almost breaking even to get a nicer car! This is how I traded 2 cars over tge past year. Well, it cost a little more than $300, but wasn't very much!
Take pics of both cars, if you can, so we can see a before and after!
Still, let's see what other members have to say, just to make sure. But I'm all for it, myself!
To @ThatBlackTL, here are a few comments regarding your post:
Regarding "The Bad":
It sounds very much like the Type-S has axle related issues.
The Type-S steering is supposed to be even heavier than the 2004-2006 6MT steering which is heavier than the base automatic steering for all years. Any dead spots can be due to alignment; my 6MT has no such dead spots.
Regarding "The Good":
If the A/C on your other TL A) makes the engine chug, and B) turns the car into a 4-Cylinder Camry, then there is something wrong with your A/C system (I'm guessing compressor); the A/C in my base 6MT is barely noticeable, and if I had an automatic I wouldn't notice it at all.
The stiffer springs and shock/strut valving on the Type-S (and to a lesser degree the 6MT models) will definitely allow for more aggressive handling; I've found by playing with tire pressure (40 front, 38 rear), you can further stabilize the car in the twisties.
Regarding the difference in power, yes, the Type-S has some more power, but I haven't noticed it in the Type-S rides I've had to the degree you are talking about; possibly your base TL is a bit down on power.
To @ThatBlackTL, here are a few comments regarding your post:
Regarding "The Bad":
It sounds very much like the Type-S has axle related issues.
The Type-S steering is supposed to be even heavier than the 2004-2006 6MT steering which is heavier than the base automatic steering for all years. Any dead spots can be due to alignment; my 6MT has no such dead spots.
Regarding "The Good":
If the A/C on your other TL A) makes the engine chug, and B) turns the car into a 4-Cylinder Camry, then there is something wrong with your A/C system (I'm guessing compressor); the A/C in my base 6MT is barely noticeable, and if I had an automatic I wouldn't notice it at all.
The stiffer springs and shock/strut valving on the Type-S (and to a lesser degree the 6MT models) will definitely allow for more aggressive handling; I've found by playing with tire pressure (40 front, 38 rear), you can further stabilize the car in the twisties.
Regarding the difference in power, yes, the Type-S has some more power, but I haven't noticed it in the Type-S rides I've had to the degree you are talking about; possibly your base TL is a bit down on power.
The TL-S definitely needs an alignment and road force balance.
If I decide to buy this car, I have already set aside some money for alignment, road force, axles, all LCA bushings, fixing coolant leak, throttle body and intake cleaning, tranny mounts, front brake rotors and pads and all the fluid flush with 3x3 trans fluid drain and refill.
The AC in my TL base takes up much more power than it normally should and it cycles every 15 minutes for 5 seconds which is very annoying. That is why, most the time I don't use AC.
Yeah, those are Type-S seats; the fronts probably look the same (or did); I'm guessing they're pretty ripped up.
There are a number of companies which make cut to order skins for all flavors of the 3G TL which are as good as, or better (for more money) than the factory skins.
Yeah, those are Type-S seats; the fronts probably look the same (or did); I'm guessing they're pretty ripped up.
There are a number of companies which make cut to order skins for all flavors of the 3G TL which are as good as, or better (for more money) than the factory skins.
Okay. There is a chance he might have did it so the resale value doesn't go down.
But that's a risk I'm ready to take.
I saw some clazzio seat covers on endless rpm and those look good.
Okay. There is a chance he might have did it so the resale value doesn't go down.
But that's a risk I'm ready to take.
I saw some clazzio seat covers on endless rpm and those look good.
Maybe it is just me, but even the very best seat covers look like crap compared to a set of custom made skins; check out these vendors:
These are awesome. I didn't know about these options. This could be a project after I'm done restoring the car mechanically. Till then I think I could live with the covers that come with the car. Who knows, maybe the original seats are in good condtion underneath the covers.
I need to make a big decision and your advice might help.
I bought a 2008 Acura TL 3.2 with 129k miles for $6500 in January 2018. I’m the third owner. I did all the inspection I knew at the time but I guess, it was not enough as this was my first car buying experience. The 105k service was performed at the dealership.
After I bought the car, I had some savings left so I replaced the leaking radiator, brake rotors and pads, pressure switches, air filter, cabin filter, did 3x3 transmission fluid drain and refill with 2.5 quarts redline D4 and 1 quart type-f, oil change, brake fluid flush, power steering fluid flush, intake manifold and throttle body cleaning, one of the upstream oxygen sensor and new 255/40/17 Nitto Motivo.
The engine and transmission were and still are in really good condition, but the overall car is not. It needs at least $2500 to replace axles, endlinks, engine and transmission mounts, steering rack, shocks, new wheels, heater control valve, all of the LCA bushings and tie rods.
The car is currently at 145k. Now, I found a 2007 TL Type-S for $5k which I can probably bring down to $4.5k. The only problem is, it has 198k miles but it is a 1-owner car with all the services done at 5-6k miles interval and 105k service done at Acura dealership. The interior and exterior are in really great condition, probably better than mine. The engine and transmission seem to be in the same condition as my TL. The transmission probably shifts less smooth than my car but that maybe because of the pressure switches and redline fluid.
The car seems to be more mechanically sound than my TL with 145k. The Type-S also needs new bushings, shocks and brakes, but the axles, all the mounts, steering rack, wheels, and all other things that need replacing in my car, are fine. I can probably sell my car for around the same price and buy this car. The only thing I am worried about is the mileage.
Sorry for the long post. I am planning to keep the car for at least three years. I would like to hear your opinions.
Thank you.
I would say not to do it. Sell your car and save up for a more maintained type s with less kms. Fixing everything will cost time money and head aches. And with the amount of fixing already here will be more along the way. Consider resale value, kms with year it will be at in the future. I saw the post you made about the bad and good and I think it was enough to pick something else. But this is only my opinion. Also I think I read that the guy is willing to trade for your car almost? That’s a bit odd.
I would say not to do it. Sell your car and save up for a more maintained type s with less kms. Fixing everything will cost time money and head aches. And with the amount of fixing already here will be more along the way. Consider resale value, kms with year it will be at in the future. I saw the post you made about the bad and good and I think it was enough to pick something else. But this is only my opinion. Also I think I read that the guy is willing to trade for your car almost? That’s a bit odd.
I understand. I thought about this option a lot before deciding to go see this TL-S but then I'll have to buy a beater car that can run safely at 70 mph until I find a low mileage TL-S.
And I'd rather just keep driving my base TL than doing all this.
I understand. I thought about this option a lot before deciding to go see this TL-S but then I'll have to buy a beater car that can run safely at 70 mph until I find a low mileage TL-S.
And I'd rather just keep driving my base TL than doing all this.
I'm kinda in your situation but I plan to wait a little while before trading again.
I had a 2008 Camry, hated it, got a 2008 TL. Had a few problems and got scared so I traded it on a 2011 Optima. Nice car, put a lot of maintenance work into it but I just don't like it much. IDK if I really want another TL, thinking of getting a TSX, but my Optima isn't worth much... You get the idea. I went from a 106K mile TL to a 168K mile Kia and had to pay $625 to make the switch.
My life situation is in limbo so I'm going to wait but I totally get what you mean. I'd rather keep my car until I find the one I want to replace it with..
You would loose all of your money in the beater anyway and when you find a TypeS you'd be broke.
Not saying this is your only opportunity, but I can see how selling your TL and waiting around may hurt more than help...
I'm kinda in your situation but I plan to wait a little while before trading again.
I had a 2008 Camry, hated it, got a 2008 TL. Had a few problems and got scared so I traded it on a 2011 Optima. Nice car, put a lot of maintenance work into it but I just don't like it much. IDK if I really want another TL, thinking of getting a TSX, but my Optima isn't worth much... You get the idea. I went from a 106K mile TL to a 168K mile Kia and had to pay $625 to make the switch.
My life situation is in limbo so I'm going to wait but I totally get what you mean. I'd rather keep my car until I find the one I want to replace it with..
You would loose all of your money in the beater anyway and when you find a TypeS you'd be broke.
Not saying this is your only opportunity, but I can see how selling your TL and waiting around may hurt more than help...
Yeah.
I guess, the only better decision that I could've taken was to not buy the TL base in the first place and wait for a well maintained TL.
But what's done is done and as they say, live and learn. As a matter of fact, I really learned a lot about cars and money management during my ownership.
I might save a little more than couple thousand bucks in a beater but I would prefer to drive a broken TL instead.
And I've driven this TL-S. It's a really good car and it doesn't drive a 200k mile car. It can't be worse than my TL.
The shop told me there is someone coming to look at the car last Saturday. I guess I'll know on Wednesday if they bought it or not.
I'm just waiting to take the car to a mechanic on Wednesday, if available.
Yesterday, I saw the car on a sunny day for the first time and noticed the different shade of black on fenders, front/rear bumpers and hood right away, and this black was just a really bad paint job.
Before I took it to the mechanic, I found out that, even though it has a clean carfax, there is a report of accident on Auto check.
It doesn't mention anything about the accident. So, I still took it to a mechanic. In 2 minutes, he asked me if the car has been in a wreck, by inspecting the bumpers, fenders and hood.
He also said that the coolant leak seems to be from the water pump. Also, there was this constant robotic pinging kind of noise on accelerating that started yesterday and won't go away.
These were enough red flags for me to not buy a 200k mile car. Still, I would say the car looks good mechanically.
So, today, I went on a 600 mile round trip to test drive 4 one owner TL and 3 one owner 08-12 accord v6 with around 100k miles. All I can say is, Mine is the best of them all.
I think I should just start restoring and enjoying my TL rather than looking for a replacement.
Thank you everyone for contributing to this thread. It helped a lot.
OFF-TOPIC: Does anyone have any advice about the following issues?
1) Why does the rpms fluctuate and headlights dim when I operate power windows at idle? It's like I am giving it a bit of gas.
2) Why does my temp gauge only goes up to 1/4th level while all other TL's gauge goes up to almost 1/2 level?
3) What all bushings do I need to replace when doing the shocks and springs besides top hats?
4) Do I need to replace the other LCA Bushings when I replace the compliance?
5) My car is sluggish half the time, no codes... can it be the oxygen sensor? I get 24 mpg on highway when I drive constantly at 80 mph.
6) I guess I will have to replace the compressor in the near future since it cycles every 15 minutes...
7) Are the jerks while downshifting around 40 mph and 20 mph related to tranny mounts?
12-18-2018, 06:31 PM
