Who has locked themselves out of their own Acura TL while running?
12-14-2011, 02:44 PM
#43
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
12-14-2011, 04:10 PM
#44
It will not let you. This morning I got in my car while it was running and with the door open, the car will not let you lock the door. The door must be closed in order for you to lock it.
12-15-2011, 07:05 PM
#46
Something like this is the way to go. I am very familiar with reed switches and magnets. You can drill a hole in any magnetic metal material to place the read switch in and mount that block if you will anywhere in the car that you can create a magnetic flux path with a permanent magnet. A strong permanent magnet is never going to dislodge from a good magnetic mount under shock and vibration.
The trunk sounds like a good place to hide and secure the third key. Where did you tap in?
The trunk sounds like a good place to hide and secure the third key. Where did you tap in?
The following users liked this post:
Shoot2Thrill (12-16-2011)
12-16-2011, 10:45 AM
#48
Walk the walk
I tapped in right at the trunk solenoid. When the the two reed switches are activated they pass 12V to the trunk release solenoid (12v constant sourced at the navi & diode isolated). The 12V signal also triggers a relay thats breaks contact on the trunk status wire. So as long as the magnets are on the reed switches the car alarm does not know the trunk is open so it will not trigger the alarm. I'll try and post my wire diagram for it tomorrow if your interested.
Do you have the switches bundled together or do you have to do the bypass and then the solenoid?
The following users liked this post:
robzillah (12-20-2013)
12-16-2011, 11:32 AM
#49
once triggered power is suppled to the solenoid and the bypass relay at the same time. I have 2 reed switches only because to me its more secure. you can't just drag a magnet around looking for the switch you have to know where both locations are.
Last edited by Roger555; 12-16-2011 at 11:36 AM.
12-16-2011, 02:19 PM
#50
Walk the walk
Interesting, just groping around in the manual...
I'm looking at the 2004 manual and on page 22-211 it goes into the trunk switch. It looks like you could essentially open the trunk switch with one reed switch (but the rub is that has to be a normally closed switch) so there is no continuity between pin 2 and 3. This is the closed state of the trunk.
The solenoid is grounded so you power pin 1 (yellow/green) page 22-300 with the other reed switch (normally open switch) 12 VDC you pull off the somewhere like the Navi you suggested.
It looks to me if I am all on the right track is the solenoid is continuously energized unless that has some sort of disconnect on its own after it actuates.
This strategy using reeds switch that are normally open and one that is normally closed which sounds a bit wrong.
Also using the two reed switches you need to put the magnet on the bypass before the the solenoid. Otherwise you trip the alarm.
However, maybe you can elaborate and correct this so you short the bypass relay rather than mess with opening the trunk switch and avoid the sequence issue.
Your way sounds much more elegant.
I'm looking at the 2004 manual and on page 22-211 it goes into the trunk switch. It looks like you could essentially open the trunk switch with one reed switch (but the rub is that has to be a normally closed switch) so there is no continuity between pin 2 and 3. This is the closed state of the trunk.
The solenoid is grounded so you power pin 1 (yellow/green) page 22-300 with the other reed switch (normally open switch) 12 VDC you pull off the somewhere like the Navi you suggested.
It looks to me if I am all on the right track is the solenoid is continuously energized unless that has some sort of disconnect on its own after it actuates.
This strategy using reeds switch that are normally open and one that is normally closed which sounds a bit wrong.
Also using the two reed switches you need to put the magnet on the bypass before the the solenoid. Otherwise you trip the alarm.
However, maybe you can elaborate and correct this so you short the bypass relay rather than mess with opening the trunk switch and avoid the sequence issue.
Your way sounds much more elegant.
Last edited by Shoot2Thrill; 12-16-2011 at 02:26 PM.
12-16-2011, 07:55 PM
#51
Reed switches are are usually N/O I've never seen a N/C one but I suppose they could exist.
Here is my diagram, let me know if you have any questions. Also be careful there are tons of hidden differences between the wiring on the 04,05,06 models. I use that 04 Pdf too sometimes, but I have a hard copy of the 06 service manual & 06 Electrical troubleshooting manual which actually points out the differences between the 3 models. Highly recommended these, best 110$ you'll spend! (Yes you can get both for about $110).
Here is my diagram, let me know if you have any questions. Also be careful there are tons of hidden differences between the wiring on the 04,05,06 models. I use that 04 Pdf too sometimes, but I have a hard copy of the 06 service manual & 06 Electrical troubleshooting manual which actually points out the differences between the 3 models. Highly recommended these, best 110$ you'll spend! (Yes you can get both for about $110).
Last edited by Roger555; 12-16-2011 at 08:08 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Shoot2Thrill (12-16-2011)
12-16-2011, 09:56 PM
#53
Walk the walk
Roger555 Thanks, I'm a numb at this stuff so it is going take some time to internalize. Is the purpose of the diode to to suppress a spike from the solenoid de-engerizing back into the relay. How did you size the diode? Also are you making that cut the number 3 yellow green wire how does that not change normal operation of the switch indication. I have to get up to speed on the relay nomenclature. I also have the 08 so I would also being looking at that one. Again this should be going to the garage for noteworthy modifications.
12-16-2011, 10:19 PM
#54
Roger555 Thanks, I'm a numb at this stuff so it is going take some time to internalize. Is the purpose of the diode to to suppress a spike from the solenoid de-engerizing back into the relay. How did you size the diode? Also are you making that cut the number 3 yellow green wire how does that not change normal operation of the switch indication. I have to get up to speed on the relay nomenclature. I also have the 08 so I would also being looking at that one. Again this should be going to the garage for noteworthy modifications.
You can use 1A diodes (1N4001) but it isn't completely necessary. It just keeps power from entering the reed switch when the trunk solenoid is engaged normally.
As for the relay, basic function is as follows..
-contacts 30 & 87a are connected when the relay is at rest.
-contact 30 & 87 are connected when the relay is energized.
-85 & 86 power the relay solenoid.
So actually a relay is just like a reed switch. The solenoid creates a magnetic field which pulls the flap from 87a to 87. I would do a quick google search for a better relay explanation.
So in conclusion the status wire functions as normal unless you are activating the reed switches.
By the way these are the reed switches I use.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...D-RELAY/1.html
03-06-2015, 01:04 PM
#55
I found out the hard way that it is very possible to lock yourself out of a 3G TL with my '08 Type S yesterday. Had to call a locksmith to get in. Something tells me the actuators are messed up, because I don't think the doors are supposed to randomly lock or unlock by themselves while the car is parked.
03-06-2015, 05:18 PM
#56
Three Wheelin'
Never locked myself out of a car, ever. Now I've locked myself out of the house a few times LOL
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mada51589
3G TL Problems & Fixes
79
05-03-2022 08:54 PM
tman570
2G RL Audio, Bluetooth, Electronics & Navigation
11
06-11-2019 07:56 AM
nuldabz
3G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension
3
09-03-2015 05:49 PM
