3G TL (2004-2008)
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What Motor Oil Do You Use for your TL?

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Old 04-04-2013, 10:44 AM
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^So what in your mind is the BEST?

Redline oil, RP filter?
Old 04-04-2013, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
Okay, so did a little financial analysis.
12 quarts, 2 filters...$98 shipped. Add another $13 for another filter and no charge for the three .5 quarts I'll add of Mobil1 that are leftover from the extra .5 from every 1 gallon change I've collected.

So, to do 3 oil changes, I'm at $111 with Royal Purple.

At Walmart, I'm roughly at $33 per change with taxes for a gallon of M1 EP and 1 Fram Filter.

So, after 3 changes. $111 for royal purple - $99 for cheaper walmart stuff. $12 difference. Yeah, worth giving it a shot for me.

And get this, THAT is for the High Performance Street oil from Royal Purple. Although I would never push it that long...they claim 1 year, or 12K miles on this type of oil. NICE.

taken from RP website:
HPS™ – HIGH PERFORMANCE STREET MOTOR OIL

Royal Purple HPS Series motor oil is specifically formulated to maximize performance and meet the demands of high performance and modified engines. HPS is recommended for vehicles no longer under manufacturer warranty and for those seeking a higher level of performance and protection.

This unique blend enables HPS to outperform leading synthetics and conventional lubricants for both gasoline and diesel engines. Royal Purple’s HPS is fortified with a high level of zinc/phosphorus anti-wear additive and Royal Purple’s proprietary Synerlec® additive technology. Available viscosities include: 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50.


I like how you do your analysis coz you want to get RP

imagine a fresh start, you will need ~23qts for 5 oil changes....so 12qts and 2 filters is ~$98....24 qts and 4 filters is $196...another filter is $13.....

so you are at $209 for 5 oil changes which is $41.8 per oil change with RP (mind it, Matt and other love RP filter; RP oil, not as much )

Mobil1 EP and Filter for $37@AAP...so its $5 difference/oil change....

now thats analysis and not how much oil you have left and mixing in

btw do look at the Data sheet for RP, its thinner, has a lower Viscocity index and much lower HTHS than Mobil1/Penn Plat/Penn Ultra (which are cheaper oils) and these have much lower HTHS than Redline....and hence I dont feel its worth switching from M1 to RP in your case and paying more....but as always, your $, your car

The reason am thinking of mixing the Mobil1 brands is because they have a decent viscosity when compared to Redline....higher viscosity index but a little lower HTHS than Redline....

Last edited by swoosh; 04-04-2013 at 11:07 AM.
Old 04-04-2013, 11:10 AM
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Well fk me sideways...where the fk were you and Matt when I said I was going to buy it and that I'd obviously misinterpreted!

Now you BOTH owe me a new engine, dammit.

What if I run it till 12k instead of the usual 5k interval. I'll get my money back and then some!

I tried to cancel my amazon order...but might be too late. Oh well.

Last edited by rockstar143; 04-04-2013 at 11:13 AM.
Old 04-04-2013, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Maharajamd
^So what in your mind is the BEST?

Redline oil, RP filter?


Redline is a great oil, i just want to spend like $65/oil change (with filter)...

RP/M1/Amsoil EAO any synthetic media filter is nice (summing up the thread )
Old 04-04-2013, 11:16 AM
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I was asking IHC specifically.

I've been rocking M1 EP + OEM S2000 filters forever and have no desire to switch.
Old 04-04-2013, 11:21 AM
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^^^ I am telling you what he has been saying in this thread and numerous other threads LOL

Redline + RP filter LOL


and as I mentioned, a lot of folks dont wanna spend $65/oil change and hence switch down to or stick to M1/Penn Ultra

Jeremy, I bet we use $5 over 5000miles in worse ways ....and with Amazon prime if you want to return it, its hassle free
Old 04-04-2013, 11:25 AM
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I know...but unf. they oil wasn't shipped yet but the other stuff was packaged already...and since one was a promotion to get the other free, it's creating complications.
We'll see..worst case they charge me for the filters...I return the oil and keep on keeping on with the M1.
Old 04-04-2013, 11:37 AM
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^^^ Thats a good idea or just run the oil....its not like you (in general and no specifically you) gonna go drag racing...its a decent street oil (just not the best)....and 2 oil changes is like 8-9 months
Old 04-04-2013, 12:32 PM
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Yep, that's what I'm thinking too.
Old 04-05-2013, 03:20 AM
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as far as the filter question goes... some are talking flow and some are talking filtration. By going with the factory filter you will have a trade off. Higher filtration will result in more resistance in flow and visa versa. One way to get higher filtration and keep the flow is to go to a longer filter. Some filters have a very good filtration rate but also a higher resistance to flow. In my Z28, I always ran the longer truck filter number with a high filtration filter so I kept my oil flow high as well.
Old 04-05-2013, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by EvilJoker
as far as the filter question goes... some are talking flow and some are talking filtration. By going with the factory filter you will have a trade off. Higher filtration will result in more resistance in flow and visa versa. One way to get higher filtration and keep the flow is to go to a longer filter. Some filters have a very good filtration rate but also a higher resistance to flow. In my Z28, I always ran the longer truck filter number with a high filtration filter so I kept my oil flow high as well.
I agree, the larger S2000 filter is a great idea. The beauty of the 2 synthetic media filters (that I know of) on the market is you don't have to compromise at all, they filter and flow with the best of them. Imagine the media being a bunch of fibers laid in a random cross pattern and the oil flowing between the gaps. Now imagine instead of the gaps being all different sizes they're now all the same size. That helps a little but what really gives the advantage is the average hole is smaller for better filtration and also the fibers are much smaller, taking up less space between the holes resulting in many more holes due to less gap between holes for better flow too.
Old 04-05-2013, 08:39 AM
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I take mine to the dealer and he uses penzoil platinum 5W20 synthetic. I change it whenever the MID says so. Usually 6500 - 7000 miles between oil changes. Cost me $39 for oil and filter change.
Old 04-05-2013, 08:55 AM
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be ready!
Old 04-05-2013, 10:25 AM
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+1 on a bigger filter....

tlorencz....that is not a bad price for a syncthetic oil change....do you know what filter the dealership uses?

and OCI's heavily depend on the kind of driving....when I used to drive from St Louis to KC every week for work (I used to drive around 1000 miles per week), when I hit 5000 miles, the MID still used to read 40%...the MID has no way to determine the quality and life of the oil...depending on the climate of where you live and driving distance (short trips/long trips) and city or highway driving, it judges the oil % left....

I would suggest sticking to a 5000 miles OCI...Penn Plat 5w-20 is a good oil...but if you have more than 100K miles, I suggest using PP 5w-30 since its thicker and will give you that added protection against wear....

Finally, why dont you give Mobil1 or Penn Ultra a go? also have you tried doing the oil changes yourself? Its very easy and barely takes 15 minutes
Old 04-05-2013, 10:34 AM
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So...we've come full circle and the combo of s2000 filter + M1 EP or Penn Ultra is the best, cost effective choice?

Old 04-05-2013, 10:44 AM
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^^^ LOL well I dont know how good the OEM S2000 filter is....

going forward am going to using M1 EP 5w25 (50% mix of M1 EP 5w30 and M1 EP 5W25) and M1 EP filter which is used in S2000.....I can get this for $37 at AAP....the M1 EP oil and Fram Filter used to run me ~$32 at Wally world

I think Matt still stands firm on his Redline oil + RP filter....
Old 04-05-2013, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
^^^ LOL well I dont know how good the OEM S2000 filter is....

going forward am going to using M1 EP 5w25 (50% mix of M1 EP 5w30 and M1 EP 5W25) and M1 EP filter which is used in S2000.....I can get this for $37 at AAP....the M1 EP oil and Fram Filter used to run me ~$32 at Wally world

I think Matt still stands firm on his Redline oil + RP filter....
You know it. I like the S2000 sized filter, but not the OEM filter.

I hope I've been clear that this discussion is aimed at the fanatics like myself for the sake of discussion and entertainment and none of these exotic oils and filters are required for a long and happy engine life.

As for the "best", I think everyone knows where I stand for my climate and my driving habits and the reasons why. If I had a second choice it would be M1 EP and a P1 S2000 sized filter.

The main thing I want to express is that most oils are really close together in performance and if you find yourself spending $10 a quart for oil you owe it to yourself to use one of the few oils that actually stand out. If you're spending $10+ for a filter you might as well use one that stands out as well. I'm not trying to make the money argument because its hard to justify an expensive oil and filter to most people when the regular stuff gets the job done.
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:27 AM
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^^^ By the P1 filter you mean the purolator pureone filter?

Any reasons why you prefer that over the M1 EP filter?
Old 04-05-2013, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
^^^ By the P1 filter you mean the purolator pureone filter?

Any reasons why you prefer that over the M1 EP filter?
The pure one filters are known to filter better than most. In fact I think it approaches the RP filter's beta ratios. They're also known for being more restrictive which is why I would only use it in the larger S2000 size. To be honest even if its more restrictive than the others, filters generally show almost zero restriction when the oil is warm. You would never run into problems with the stock sized pure one on a TL but you would probably want to keep the OCIs around 5k.

Off topic but the one great thing about the RP that got me to switch from the similar media Amsoil Eao filter is the oil light stayed on longer on the first start of the day meaning the anti drainback valve was not working as it should. I noticed this with the majority if the S2000 sized Eao filters. They also failed the suck blow test which the RP passed easily. Just don't get caught sucking on the filter in a store, people give you some really messed up looks. The point being, the oil pressure light goes out almost immediately with the RP filter even after sitting for a couple days which is important and if you plan to run it for extended OCIs, the fact that its silicone and not rubber helps tremendously as the rubber almost always stops sealing well after a few thousand miles.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:45 PM
  #180  
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Matt, your last 2 posts were probably the most informative that I've read on the forum. I appreciate the honest approach to giving advice to the correct audience because advice for a lot of car situations are not a one size fits all.
Old 04-05-2013, 01:53 PM
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I think its safe to say we can sticky this thread as the official what oil and filter to use thread LOL

now if only we can determine which is the best cold air intake....
Old 04-05-2013, 02:05 PM
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Duh, K&N!
Old 04-05-2013, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by EvilJoker
.... One way to get higher filtration and keep the flow is to go to a longer filter. Some filters have a very good filtration rate but also a higher resistance to flow. In my Z28, I always ran the longer truck filter number with a high filtration filter so I kept my oil flow high as well.
With the TL, be careful about using a longer filter:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/important-info-all-tl-owners-my-story-inside-572173/

and see the photo at post #11
Old 04-05-2013, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared
With the TL, be careful about using a longer filter:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=572173

and see the photo at post #11
That dude had a stock filter when he damaged the filter and the car. I guess if you basically wreck the car you could have filter damage lol.

From what I remember back in '06 when I switched to the larger filter I think it was a hair shorter than the stock filter. Diameter matters too.

Neither of the two OEM Honda sized filters will ever come into contact with the control arm without basically wrecking the car first. I've hit the bumpstops numerous times with the S2000 filter. The guy in that thread was using the tiny stock filter when it happened so he obviously bent something.

Let's not make a big deal out of something that's not important. I've always inspected the filters after use to see if anything has come into contact with them.
Old 04-05-2013, 05:26 PM
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Someone needs to go back and read the thread. He did not have the stock filter on before or after he hit the pothole. Both filters were the same length (longer than stock) and not the stock filter. The dealership installed the wrong, longer filter both times:

Originally Posted by Ron A
That's not the stock filter. The stock filter is about half as high and blue.
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
Ron ..

that's weird b/c the filter that Acura put in was this height exactly (the same height as the white one in the picture)
and was ORANGE. It said Genuine Honda Product on it... maybe they fu**ed up the last time they gave me an oil change!!?? Arrrgg... why didn't I save that orange filter??
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
ndabunka... thanks for your support. I actually get all my service done at Acura in Lisle, IL. Perhaps they had their young tech do my oil change (why waste the super-intelligence of their senior mechanics on an oil change, right??) and they may have installed the wrong type of filter (albeit a Honda/Acura filter -- perhaps for an older model TL) on my car. This is so frustrating, becuase now I have to go get the new filter put in and pay for another oil change.
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
...I wish I would have had the time (in terms of how slow/fast that oil leak was) to haul my TL to the Acura dealership to place the blame on them. They definitely are the only ones that install oil filters on my car, and unfortunately, they installed the wrong size (as I've learned here) and a harsh pothole hit has nearly caused me an engine -- and who knows what hassle (such as the NSX owner that you discuss).

Last edited by nfnsquared; 04-05-2013 at 05:28 PM.
Old 04-05-2013, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared
Someone needs to go back and read the thread. He did not have the stock filter on before or after he hit the pothole. Both filters were the same length (longer than stock) and not the stock filter. The dealership installed the wrong, longer filter both times:
I read to the part where he said he had a stock filter. Since the S2000 filter is no longer than the TL filter there is no issue. The end.

Thanks for backing up what I said though, no OEM Honda sized filter will have clearance issue without wrecking the car first.

Last edited by I hate cars; 04-05-2013 at 05:48 PM.
Old 04-05-2013, 05:46 PM
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Just came in from changing the oil and filter. Used Mobil-1 (only because it was on a screamin' sale last year) and PureOne filter. At 133,000 miles, my 9 1/2 yr-old TL hasn't blown up yet. For me, the best oil is whatever's on sale. More particular about the filter though. Been buying PureOne exclusively.

Newsflash: Our local Sears beat Amazon on ye ol' trusty PL14610, even after not paying sales tax (for now at least) on Amazon. Don't know if it was a fluke, but just sayin' it pays to always keep checking around...
Old 04-05-2013, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
I read to the part where he said he had a stock filter. Since the S2000 filter is no longer than the TL filter there is no issue. The end.
And my post cautioned about using a longer filter. I said nothing about OEM sized filters causing a problem. So next time, RTFP before you go running your mouth again...
Old 04-05-2013, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared
And my post cautioned about using a longer filter. I said nothing about OEM sized filters causing a problem. So next time, RTFP before you go running your mouth again...
Temper temper. The things people say under anonymity of the internet.... I figured it was time to head you off before you trash another thread with your misinformation. You should thank me for being proactive. I know your patterns. People are smarter than you think. No one is going to use a longer filter without checking clearance. Diameter plays a role in clearance due to the angle so with the right diameter and curvature you could likely do a longer filter. Some people have run sandwich adapters, spacing the filter another 3/4". More than likely the one in your link was the S2000 diameter or greater. Hell, I got an Eao 36 to fit which is absolutely huge and the car would hit the bump stops before the filter but with enough force the control arm would barely tap the arm. You can thank me now. If you want to get into a pissing match, ill be glad to show you every mistake you make in every thread you post in. Remember your place, a manual reader, nothing more.
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Old 04-06-2013, 03:21 AM
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will you guys fucking knock it off !!!

you guys are down to arguing about semantics rather than oil and filter
Old 04-06-2013, 08:53 AM
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The real question is...which is better, shampoo or conditioner?

I'm biased...I've clashed with nfn before...but I know they both are just trying to help.
Old 04-06-2013, 09:07 AM
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^^^

guess a lot of people will be biased against your advice

in all honesty, NFN brought a great point of making sure the filter is not humongous....but Matt had a great counter by explaining about the length and girth
Old 04-06-2013, 12:22 PM
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Always good reading at Acurazine.

I use the PureOne filter and the oil light goes out < 1 second. Since I'm running a Mobile 1 synthetic it should be fine with 1 second of weak pressure. Also I thought the filter change interval is every other oil change (A1 .vs. A2), so I have no problems running a PureOne to 6-7k miles.

I have about 6 more stock size filters left so I guess I'll be using those for a little longer- fortunately this size also fits our Pilot so I burn through them quicker. I have a 3 year supply at the moment.

I agree that the filters are probably more vulnerable than the actual modern oils for extended OCIs- that's the main reason I'll change the filter each and every time.
Old 04-06-2013, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
^^^

guess a lot of people will be biased against your advice

in all honesty, NFN brought a great point of making sure the filter is not humongous....but Matt had a great counter by explaining about the length and girth
To be honest his comment was fine and informative. The problem is I know where it was headed, it was the set up before he began trying to pick apart my posts. I expected it because he was all pissed in the locked timing belt thread. It's a pattern. I guess I have a pattern of reacting as well but if it weren't me it would be someone else so I don't mind if he focuses his energy on me, I'm a big boy lol.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:02 PM
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Dude, you have some kind of complex or something. My post was a reply to EvilJoker's suggestion to use a longer filter and had nothing to do with your posts. Get over it.
Old 04-06-2013, 01:09 PM
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both you guys have some history and I will admit, I cant live without either of you guys know-how....so imma end this pissing contest by saying I have the biggest pee-pee here...everyone happy?
Old 04-06-2013, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by LaCostaRacer
Always good reading at Acurazine.

I use the PureOne filter and the oil light goes out < 1 second. Since I'm running a Mobile 1 synthetic it should be fine with 1 second of weak pressure. Also I thought the filter change interval is every other oil change (A1 .vs. A2), so I have no problems running a PureOne to 6-7k miles.,,,
Yeah, been running the stock sized PureOne for over 100K miles now (approx 13 oil changes) and the light goes out instantly for me.

You are correct, filter change interval is every other oil change per the OM. I run normal 7500-8000 mile OCI's (ran one up to 10.1K) with the PureOne with no issues. In fact, the silicon levels are consistently below average and I live on a dirt road. I have no worries running this filter for 8K-10K OCI's.
Old 04-06-2013, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
both you guys have some history and I will admit, I cant live without either of you guys know-how....so imma end this pissing contest by saying I have the biggest pee-pee here...everyone happy?
It's ridiculous, I wasn't even replying to his post.
Old 04-06-2013, 01:41 PM
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^^^ now we know so lets drop the argument/discussion/banter as it will only lead to more arguments (from past experience)....

as I said...both you guys are very very knowledgeable and I wish mutual harmony existed between us (all of us)
Old 04-06-2013, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared
Dude, you have some kind of complex or something. My post was a reply to EvilJoker's suggestion to use a longer filter and had nothing to do with your posts. Get over it.
Are you trying to convince me or just trying to put on a show for everyone else. I know what you're all about, no need to pretend unless you're trying to convince the others.

As for the longer filter, you left out diameter and being that the filter is at an angle the diameter makes a difference as well, not to mention some filters are more rounded in that area than others. You can get away with a longer filter as long as it's not too long and according to the diameter which I thought was common sense.


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