3G TL (2004-2008)
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What kind of car battery does the TL take?

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Old 01-31-2010, 12:33 AM
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What kind of car battery does the TL take?

I need to replace it soon but may use one from another car but I'm not sure if it's compatible. Thx
Old 01-31-2010, 03:10 AM
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as long as its the same size- as measured by `Group number` example 24, 26, 34

Sometimes you can go bigger size but may have issue with the battery cover fitting
Old 01-31-2010, 03:47 AM
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do it right and get a quality battery of the same size
Old 01-31-2010, 09:34 AM
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You do know that, depending on year, the TL battery is warrantied for 3 or 4 years, full replacement (then prorated to 100 months). Check with your dealer and you may get it replaced for free.
Old 01-31-2010, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared
You do know that, depending on year, the TL battery is warrantied for 3 or 4 years, full replacement (then prorated to 100 months). Check with your dealer and you may get it replaced for free.

this car is an 05 and was just out of warranty 12/31/09. i did a prepurchase inspection on it at an acura dealership and they told me that the battery will need to be replaced. do you think they can still swap it out? its the original battery that was in the car since first owned?

thanks!
Old 01-31-2010, 11:09 AM
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Group 24F. I replaced mine with the yellow EverStart from Walmart, rated a best buy in Consumer Reports. 700 CCA versus the OEM 550. Which ever battery you go with, get the highest # of Cold Cranking Amps available.
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Last edited by LoveMyTL-S; 04-13-2011 at 07:14 AM.
Old 01-31-2010, 11:24 AM
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Well, first a clarification to my earlier post. It appears that OEM batteries are not prorated after 4 years. Here is the link to the 2005 warranty booklet (see pg 28):

2005 TL warranty booklet.

Did you do the prepurchase inspection before 12/31/09? If you can document that an Acura dealer told you the battery needed to be replaced while the car was still in warranty, then I'd think you would have sufficient support to compel Acura to replace the battery.
Old 01-31-2010, 11:29 AM
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Get an Interstate, $74 at Sam's Club stores. #24f I think.
Old 01-31-2010, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
Group 24F. I replaced mine with the yellow EverStart from Walmart, rated a best buy in Consumer Reports. 700 CCA versus the OEM 550. Which ever battery you go with, get the highest # off Cold Cranking Amps available.
.
.
That's what I've always done too. My current battery is a 1,000 CCA Optima. However, I was told by a Johnson Controls rep just recently to get the lowest CCA battery that will turn the car over easily. According to him the lower CCA batteries have thicker plates and will last longer with the vibration and heat in the engine bay.

Another thing I learned is the gel cells aren't always the best for hot climates.

The Sears Die Hard Platinum is about the best battery for the money. It's a gel cell and sells for 50% more under other names.
Old 01-31-2010, 06:28 PM
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I believe it takes 4 Double AA batteries

Old 01-31-2010, 06:47 PM
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get a manual park on a hill and never worry about a dead battery. :0
Old 01-31-2010, 08:38 PM
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I just replaced my battery for my 2005 TL. I got a Motomaster Eliminator 770 CCA. It is a spiral grid battery, much more durable than lead-acid cell batteries. More resistant to vibration and apparently has a longer life too. However, I live in a very cold region (constant -20 C to -30 C in the winter) so need a good battery to start the car in the morning.
Old 02-01-2010, 11:10 PM
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Kirkland Signature from Costco, $60

After 59 months and 76K miles, the OEM battery finally died today. I replaced it with the Kirkland Signature (fitment #3) from Costco for $60. 640 CCA and it comes with an impressive warranty: 36-month free replacement and pro-rated to 100 months.

The Kirkland is private-label battery from Johnson-Saft, which also comes under other brands like Energizer (Sam's Club) and ProStart (PepBoys). See http://www.autobatteries.com/printBa...ear=20&brand=7

It slightly smaller and lighter than the OEM. I hope this replacement can outlast the OEM.
Old 02-02-2010, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
Group 24F. I replaced mine with the yellow EverStart from Walmart, rated a best buy in Consumer Reports. 700 CCA versus the OEM 550. Which ever battery you go with, get the highest # off Cold Cranking Amps available.
.
.
my CL's repacelement battery is rated at 883 CCA and it cost me $92..... the OEM battery reliably started the car for 8 years even when the temp reached a nice chilly -27F......
Old 02-02-2010, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by §€NTiN€L
I just replaced my battery for my 2005 TL. I got a Motomaster Eliminator 770 CCA. It is a spiral grid battery, much more durable than lead-acid cell batteries. More resistant to vibration and apparently has a longer life too. However, I live in a very cold region (constant -20 C to -30 C in the winter) so need a good battery to start the car in the morning.
My Yamaha Vino 125 uses a similar type of battery and it goes dead if you let it sit for 1 month. Spiral grid is the same thing as a glass matt battery.....so I have to keep a battery tender on my scooter during the winter......... My dad has a regular lead acid battery that starts his genset reliably once every 2 months when tested......
Old 02-22-2010, 01:02 PM
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I swapped out my battery today with a Motorcraft Gold 700CCA battery and noticed that the OEM hardware does not fit - the metal rods and bracket to secure the battery down. Does anyone else have to remove these when they replaced their battery?

also, my navi unit is now asking for a code (looks to e 4 digits) i typed in the only 4 digit code that was in my owners manual and it doesnt appear to work - it states "incorrect pin". what code does it need.

i have small labels with various numbers and i cant tell which is navi code or radio code...

thanks
Old 02-22-2010, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jguerra23
I believe it takes 4 Double AA batteries

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Old 02-22-2010, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Project X
I swapped out my battery today with a Motorcraft Gold 700CCA battery and noticed that the OEM hardware does not fit - the metal rods and bracket to secure the battery down. Does anyone else have to remove these when they replaced their battery?

also, my navi unit is now asking for a code (looks to e 4 digits) i typed in the only 4 digit code that was in my owners manual and it doesnt appear to work - it states "incorrect pin". what code does it need.

i have small labels with various numbers and i cant tell which is navi code or radio code...

thanks
The 4-digit code should be the right one. Also, did you get the right battery size? 24F?
Old 02-22-2010, 01:19 PM
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not sure what battery it is - the lady that rang me up said the system shows 2 different batteries and said more then likely the one i purchased is the right now. the car turned on etc..

could this be the problem?
Old 02-23-2010, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
as long as its the same size- as measured by `Group number` example 24, 26, 34

Sometimes you can go bigger size but may have issue with the battery cover fitting
[QUOTE]YeuEmMaiMai do it right and get a quality battery of the same size

You asked for advice, and the members gave you plenty of it. With all due respect, it doesn't appear as though you followed, or even read any of the information given to you.
"The lady that rang me up" is the final determiner in your decision?

Last edited by S PAW 1; 02-23-2010 at 03:14 PM.
Old 02-23-2010, 04:02 PM
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[quote=S PAW 1;11768972]
YeuEmMaiMai do it right and get a quality battery of the same size

You asked for advice, and the members gave you plenty of it. With all due respect, it doesn't appear as though you followed, or even read any of the information given to you.
"The lady that rang me up" is the final determiner in your decision?
i did my research - i bought a quality battery with good specs the CCA on this battery is 700. I missed a post on this thread referring to the group size - obviously in the parts store i went they entered my info and found the proper battery for my application.. 3G TL.. and yes she rang me up
Old 08-17-2010, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by princelybug
if all you have, is to show a battery pic then stay out of it ! don't waste our time ! grow up or go play with your little die cast TL replica !
Old 08-17-2010, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by tbdriver
if all you have, is to show a battery pic then stay out of it ! don't waste our time ! grow up or go play with your little die cast TL replica !

why would you revive this thread, AND talk shit when you have one post? do you really want to get flamed and or banned?
Old 08-17-2010, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 05TLdcc
why would you revive this thread, AND talk shit when you have one post? do you really want to get flamed and or banned?
WERD
Originally Posted by tbdriver
if all you have, is to show a battery pic then stay out of it ! don't waste our time ! grow up or go play with your little die cast TL replica !
Name:  mmmmgood.jpg
Views: 16056
Size:  38.3 KB

lol. Im willing to bet he has a more baller TL then you (if YOU EVEN have one). and besides, princely just quoted that, someone else posted it a few threads up originally.
Old 08-17-2010, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Parker75
After 59 months and 76K miles, the OEM battery finally died today. I replaced it with the Kirkland Signature (fitment #3) from Costco for $60. 640 CCA and it comes with an impressive warranty: 36-month free replacement and pro-rated to 100 months.

The Kirkland is private-label battery from Johnson-Saft, which also comes under other brands like Energizer (Sam's Club) and ProStart (PepBoys). See http://www.autobatteries.com/printBa...ear=20&brand=7

It slightly smaller and lighter than the OEM. I hope this replacement can outlast the OEM.
I also replaced with the Costco battery and it's a good replacement. I snipped a little bit of the pole support for the battery cover only. The other thing I did when I replaced mine was insert a battery source to the cig lighter in the cabin with ignition in accessory so all my presets were saved during the swap process. Pretty easy to do and saved having to enter all the codes, radio presets, etc.
Old 08-17-2010, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tbdriver
if all you have, is to show a battery pic then stay out of it ! don't waste our time ! grow up or go play with your little die cast TL replica !
Nice thread bump just to talk shit.

I've always used Interstate Batteries in my vehicles. I've never had a problem
Old 08-18-2010, 01:13 AM
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I've always been a Sears Diehard fan and have never had any issues. Even though they sell at a premium over Walmart or Costco, all of my Diehard batteries have always lasted quite long. My 2000 Accord has one and is well into its 6th year.
Old 08-18-2010, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by tbdriver
if all you have, is to show a battery pic then stay out of it ! don't waste our time ! grow up or go play with your little die cast TL replica !
Wait a minute, they have little die cast TL replica's? I got get one to add to my collection

Oh, and I just replaced mine with a Costco battery, I have Costco batteries that have gone 5 yrs in my cars!!
Long live Kirkland.
Old 08-18-2010, 08:40 PM
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Just went to an XS D2400 last weekend. But I am rough on batteries. Will post pics in the proper forum soon.

http://4xspower.com/products/agm/
Old 04-12-2011, 02:57 PM
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I just replaced my 05 TL with 24f Energizer 3yrs repl warranty 100 months prorated
Got mine from Sams Club for 75$
Old 04-12-2011, 03:00 PM
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I also jump started car and let it run while switching the battery so no setting was lost "did this way to test the alternator too"
Old 04-12-2011, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dtx611
I also jump started car and let it run while switching the battery so no setting was lost "did this way to test the alternator too"
I would never do that again if I were you.
Old 04-13-2011, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dtx611
I also jump started car and let it run while switching the battery so no setting was lost "did this way to test the alternator too"
Autozone has a gizmo that plugs into the 12 Volt lighter socket that has a 9 volt battery attached to keep all your settings while the battery is disconnected. About $6.
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Old 04-13-2011, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dtx611
I also jump started car and let it run while switching the battery so no setting was lost "did this way to test the alternator too"
Very bad for any modern car that has an ECU.
Old 04-13-2011, 03:25 PM
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not that i'd ever do it, but how is it bad? just curious.
Old 08-04-2011, 05:25 PM
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so from what i read i should go with a size 24F and

what is the latest consensus on what battery I should go with?
Old 08-04-2011, 05:36 PM
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I would do the Sears Diehard Platinum. It's a rebadged Odyssey battery 40% cheaper. It's not like an Odyssey, it is an Odyssey. Much better than the all too common Optima.
Old 11-10-2013, 11:31 AM
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I know this thread is old, but I didn't want to make a new one. So the story is, my bluetooth module is officially dead, and it has been draining my battery. Therefore, I have place an order for a replacement, but it'll take about a week and a half to receive the shipment. Last night my battery died and I was able to jump start it. So I was wondering, should I purchase an OEM battery or an aftermarket?
Old 11-10-2013, 02:11 PM
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Thanks for searching

First have you disconnected the HFL module? This will stop it from draining your battery. Youtube it there is a DIY

Second, any battery will do as long as it is when specs. Most people have a favorite type so just read the thread and see what suites you the best with any battery mention above. Don't always have to go OEM.
Old 11-10-2013, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by EvilVirus
Thanks for searching

First have you disconnected the HFL module? This will stop it from draining your battery. Youtube it there is a DIY
Thank You. I will give it a try
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