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View Poll Results: What transmission fluid to use on the 2004 acura tl
redline racing type-f
17.05%
redline d4
30.23%
oem atf dw-1
51.94%
another brand
6.98%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 129. You may not vote on this poll

Which transmission fluid should i use?

 
Old 03-08-2012, 05:06 PM
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Is the improvement from switching to D4 Redline or simply because it's new transmission fluid?
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by aznboi2424 View Post
Is the improvement from switching to D4 Redline or simply because it's new transmission fluid?
Get Redline Racing F you'll love it...

Doing my 2x3 next Tuesday!

And also getting my B1 with Redline @ 68K miles...

Not going back to Castrol Edge!

Haven't used OE oil since 20K
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:31 PM
  #43  
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i might try racing on my next drain.
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Old 09-07-2013, 11:49 AM
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Jiffy lube said my trans fluid is Burt and I need a flush. But I know not to flush the tl. I'm a do it yourself kinda guy and only took it to them cuz I didn't have much time. I feel like the 3x3 flush will be best or even doing it 4-5 times.
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Old 09-07-2013, 11:56 AM
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The 3x3 method is a good safe way of doing it. You can also pull a cooler line or the correct banjo fitting and do a flush that way where it pumps the fluid out on its own power. A power flush is a no-no but the cooler line method (for those that have cooler lines) is ok.
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Old 09-07-2013, 04:46 PM
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This weekend i did my 1x3 and i changed out the pressure switches and filter and used 2 qts. Redline Type F and 1 qt. Honda DW1 and the transmission now feels almost like a cvt in the sense of barely being able to feel the shifts i love it.
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Old 09-07-2013, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Gil'sUA5 View Post
This weekend i did my 1x3 and i changed out the pressure switches and filter and used 2 qts. Redline Type F and 1 qt. Honda DW1 and the transmission now feels almost like a cvt in the sense of barely being able to feel the shifts i love it.
I haven't seen that combo used before but that's a good idea. The best part is not only are the shifts much better but there's far less wear occurring everytime it shifts.
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Old 09-07-2013, 06:03 PM
  #48  
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I have done a 3x3 with mixtures of Redline type-F and Redline lightweight racing fluid. Recently replaced my switches too.
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:34 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by marc04tl View Post
Jiffy lube said my trans fluid is Burt and I need a flush. But I know not to flush the tl. I'm a do it yourself kinda guy and only took it to them cuz I didn't have much time. I feel like the 3x3 flush will be best or even doing it 4-5 times.
Do yourself a favor and don't let Jiffy Lube do it, mainly because they will tell you they did it and likely won't. Worse, they'll screw it up.
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:57 PM
  #50  
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Just going from the Z-1 to DW-1 ATF was a very noticeable improvement in both part throttle (smoother) and full throttle (firmer) that I think its best to at least replace as much of the Z-1 crap with DW-1 before maybe using something else. I want to at least have the good OEM stuff to mix with Redline (if I chose that route) rather than the crap Z-1.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars View Post
I would hope every male is bigger than your 140lbs (counting the gay belt you wear).

Transmission capacity includes torque convertor, sump, and valvebody. The torque convertor holds close to 4 quarts, not one quart.

See, there I go again feeding the troll.

PS, don't compare yourself to Inaccurate.
why not be the bigger man and not say anything at all? oh, wait...
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:18 AM
  #52  
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lets not quote something from a year and a half ago to make a pun...
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai View Post
why not be the bigger man and not say anything at all? oh, wait...
Are you for real? I think it's time you get a life instead of digging up year and a half old posts to talk shit about. Bigger man lol. Who just dug up an old ass post that was settled years ago. Are you that desperate to pick an e-fight?
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:21 PM
  #54  
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Yeah. Anyway.... My local auto parts store doesn't stock Redline but rather Amsoil. I see that Sotiris uses the Amsoil. Any update on that?

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=ATFQT-EA

Forgive a dumb question. I believe I know the answer, but just want to be 100%. As long as an ATF fluid says it's good for Honda Z1, it's the correct stuff for my TL right?
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:57 AM
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IHC,

Are you still running straight RL racing fluid? I ask because there have been claims on here of flaring due to the lack of FM. My niece has a 2004 TL with the auto. I don't think she has even hit the first tranny fluid change yet. I want to advise her on what to do when she does. My inclination is to tell her to use RL D4 and change out the pressure switches. On the subject of pressure switches, do they all need to be changed or just a couple of them?
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Old 09-13-2013, 09:11 AM
  #56  
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RL. D4 is a great fluid. The current DW-1 seems to be significantly improved. I run a mixture of RD TYPE F, and DW-1 and have no complaints. I have run all type F before and did not like the notchiness of the shifts. There are only 2 pressure switches on the 04.
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Old 09-13-2013, 11:23 PM
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Let me see- isn't it the stock honda ATF a conventional fluid and the Amsoil/RL synthetic fluid? So how can the 2 blend in when mixed?
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:58 AM
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Have any of you considered more frequent changes and just doing a single drain and refill each time? I do this with my SVX. I change the oil every 6K miles. I drain and refill the ATF every other oil change or every 12K miles. I created a spreadsheet that wold calculate the effective accumulated miles on the fluid given the percentage that would be changed out each time and the miles between changes. In that car 40% is changed out with each drain and refill. It turns out that the effective mileage on the fluid just prior to a change would not exceed 30K miles for such a system. That was my goal given the tranny's known issues and tendency to run hot. The TL might be more forgiving. I just hate the idea of changing out fresh fluid by doing multiple drains and refills each time the MIL comes on.

I can run the numbers through my spreadsheet for this car if anyone is interested. I just need to know what percentage of the fluid is changed out at each drain and refill and what the target effective accumulated mileage just before a change would be.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:24 AM
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Thats exactly what i do! I 1x3 every third oil change at about a 5k interval
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by tihomirbg View Post
Let me see- isn't it the stock honda ATF a conventional fluid and the Amsoil/RL synthetic fluid? So how can the 2 blend in when mixed?
There have been no issues with blending synthetic and non synthetic since the 70s. Just about every oil out there contains a blend of base stocks, synthetic and non synthetic. A grp IV PAO syn will always have a grp III dino or a grp V ester blended with it for several reasons with its non polar nature being a big one. Most Mobil One "full synthetic" or anyone else's "fully synthetic" is a blend of dino and syn many times with dino being the largest portion.
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Huskymaniac View Post
Have any of you considered more frequent changes and just doing a single drain and refill each time? I do this with my SVX. I change the oil every 6K miles. I drain and refill the ATF every other oil change or every 12K miles. I created a spreadsheet that wold calculate the effective accumulated miles on the fluid given the percentage that would be changed out each time and the miles between changes. In that car 40% is changed out with each drain and refill. It turns out that the effective mileage on the fluid just prior to a change would not exceed 30K miles for such a system. That was my goal given the tranny's known issues and tendency to run hot. The TL might be more forgiving. I just hate the idea of changing out fresh fluid by doing multiple drains and refills each time the MIL comes on.

I can run the numbers through my spreadsheet for this car if anyone is interested. I just need to know what percentage of the fluid is changed out at each drain and refill and what the target effective accumulated mileage just before a change would be.
I think that's a great idea.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars View Post
I think that's a great idea.
I just looked at page 1 and saw this car gets the same 40% out on each drain and refill. So, if you do a single drain and refill every 12,000 miles, the maximum effective mileage on the fluid would be 30,000 miles just before the drain and refill.

It sounds like most people are running about 8K miles between oil changes. If you did a drain and refill every other oil change or 16,000 miles, the pre-drain and refill effective fluid mileage would be 40,000 miles. If you did a drain and refill every third oil change or every 24,000 miles, the pre-drain and refill effective fluid mileage would be 60,000 miles. I think that would be the farthest one would want to go.

I think this beats wasting perfectly good fluid by doing a 3x3 or whatever people are calling it. And all you need to do is track your oil changes. If you didn't drain and refill the ATF at the last two oil changes, have it done at the next one. It isn't as easy as depending on the MIL but not so bad.

Now, people might want to know what they need to do to get on this nice and easy system. Let's say you are at your first ATF change, like my niece is. You want your post-drain and refill mileage to be 36,000 miles. Assuming you have gone about 60,000 miles on that fluid, that means changing out 40% of the existing fluid. Oh, wait, that is exactly what you get with a single drain and refill! How convenient. Just start the one drain and refill system when the MIL light comes on and do a drain and refill every third oil change thereafter.

Finally, what to do if the existing ATF is that crappy stuff that Honda was using which seemed to turn brown by the first ATF MIL? I think you have to do the 3X3 in that case to get a decent amount of that crap out of there. Then start the new system. If you have the newer stuff and your ATF is not BROWN at the ATF MIL, just start the new system at that point with a single drain and refill.

The key here is that you are doing a drain and refill evey 24K miles versus a 3x3 every 60K miles. I think this is more cost effective and simpler.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:24 PM
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One alternative if you have a type S or have added a cooler to the base is to do the cooler line method. You'll end up with 100% new fluid with about 9 quarts. I've only done it this way once on the TL but its the only way to get 100% new fluid with only 9 quarts. I still like the idea of doing a drain and refill every so often.

A good synthetic base oil will go 100k easily in a transmission with minimal breakdown and oxidation. The problem is the additive effectiveness changes over time and its good to keep a steady supply of fresh additives so the frictional characteristics don't drastically change. If you're changing out a good synthetic and feeling a change in shifting you're probably going too long between changes. That's my opinion of course and a very conservative opinion but if you're feeling a difference it means there's something different with the new add pack compared to the old.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars View Post
One alternative if you have a type S or have added a cooler to the base is to do the cooler line method. You'll end up with 100% new fluid with about 9 quarts. I've only done it this way once on the TL but its the only way to get 100% new fluid with only 9 quarts. I still like the idea of doing a drain and refill every so often.

A good synthetic base oil will go 100k easily in a transmission with minimal breakdown and oxidation. The problem is the additive effectiveness changes over time and its good to keep a steady supply of fresh additives so the frictional characteristics don't drastically change. If you're changing out a good synthetic and feeling a change in shifting you're probably going too long between changes. That's my opinion of course and a very conservative opinion but if you're feeling a difference it means there's something different with the new add pack compared to the old.
Agreed. That works well and especially if your fluid is burnt and you want all of it out. Then, if you do a ATF drain and refill at every third oil change thereafter you will actually always have an effective fluid mileage of less than 60K. It slowly creeps closer to 60K but you need to get well above 300K miles on the car before it approaches the steady state effective fluid mileage of 60K.

Is that assumption of 8K miles between motor oil changes about right for the average TL owner?
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:38 AM
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at 70k I did a 3x3 redline type f.. 3k miles later the transmission took a crap.

It was replaced under warranty with the new fluid.

I now plan on using the oem dw1 and just do one drain and fill every 30k.
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:51 PM
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Would there be any benefit from mixing dw-1 with Amsoil ATF or stick with one- for me it is Amsoil since 2008
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Old 01-26-2019, 06:29 PM
  #67  
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I just voted for Redline D4. At 95k miles, I started blending back the redline racing transmission fluid toward the OEM DW1 and my transmission did not like that at all! Shifting from 1 into 2nd and a crawl speed, when it shifted it sounded like a manual shifter would miss the gear. Like grinding a gear or hitting something. It only did from a new start-up. Then it didn't do it for the rest of my driving. Eventually it went away even though shifting was taking longer. Just from reverse to drive was taking longer. But the major reason issue (if you can image something more major than that) was that I begin getting a BURNING smell coming from somewhere. No since of anything leaking. This was after 2 3x3 swaps of OEM DW1.. So, in the past 2 weeks I have done 2 more 3x3 swaps of Redline D4 and this stuff pulls no surprises! And the burning smell is gone. And it shifts better. But there is no "learning curve" like the first time I did a 3x3 drain and fill with the Racing Fluid. When I did that, the transmission was allowing the engine to jump in RPM and run like a bat-outta-hell, but that soon went away because the engine re-learns. But with this D4, none of that happens.. No crazy stuff. no surprises. Just great reliable (and compatible and redline-recommended) transmission fluid. I suspect with higher mileage vehicles, the OEM DW1 is not good. But that Racing fluid is also a problem if you get too much of a concentration of it. So anyway, hindsight is 20/20 as they say. D4 is so far my best pick.
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:30 AM
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I have used OEM DW1 for all 280,000 miles of trouble free smooth shifting.
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by quantum7 View Post
I have used OEM DW1 for all 280,000 miles of trouble free smooth shifting.
If you stayed with the same fluid the whole time, then that is best. But I never heard of a Honda Transmission lasting almost 300,000 miles without a rebuild..
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by quantum7 View Post
I have used OEM DW1 for all 280,000 miles of trouble free smooth shifting.
Really? I thought DW-1 came out and eventually replaced ATF-Z1 well after the last 3G TL rolled off the assembly line.
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Old 01-27-2019, 11:51 AM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Chad05TL View Post
If you stayed with the same fluid the whole time, then that is best. But I never heard of a Honda Transmission lasting almost 300,000 miles without a rebuild..
I own one. 2008 Tpye S with over 360,000 miles. I used OEM fluid up to “around” 100,000 and switch to Castrol Import ATF and have no problem at all with it. Zero... Son is using the car away at college. In fact, I use Castrol Import AFT on all 4 Honda/ Acura vehicle with no problems( All original Trans with over 100K)

Last edited by mcmanut; 01-27-2019 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 01-27-2019, 12:08 PM
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Did you buy it new? Maybe you make a youtube video and tell everyone about how long your Transmission has lasted with castrol? You know, - buck the trend.. Most people say Honda transmissions are worse than average when it comes to longevity. Obviously you put a lot of highway miles.. You have 3.5 times the miles my car does, and mine is 3 years older.. haha =)

Originally Posted by mcmanut View Post
I own one. 2008 Tpye S with over 360,000 miles. I used OEM fluid up to “around” 100,000 and switch to Castrol Import ATF and have no problem at all with it. Zero... Son is using the car away at college. In fact, I use Castrol Import AFT on all 4 Honda/ Acura vehicle with no problems( All original Trans with over 100K)
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Old 01-27-2019, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Chad05TL View Post
Did you buy it new? Maybe you make a youtube video and tell everyone about how long your Transmission has lasted with castrol? You know, - buck the trend.. Most people say Honda transmissions are worse than average when it comes to longevity. Obviously you put a lot of highway miles.. You have 3.5 times the miles my car does, and mine is 3 years older.. haha =)
Yes, bought it new. I thought about doing something on YouTube, but just need to find the time and get the car back from my son. I have been driving my 2010 Honda Ridgeline for about 3 years . Iím closing in on 150,000 miles on that one. ( I bought it used with 47K)
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Old 01-27-2019, 06:33 PM
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sounds awesome..You're definitely a Honda/Acura guy.. So what school does your son go to? I went to osu

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Old 02-03-2019, 05:47 PM
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update: That burning smell may or may not be coming from the transmission fluid. It could be the front brake pads. I have those cheap brembo pads.. I'm not even sure if they are ceramic. I have done 2 of the 3 quart drain and fill with D4, and at the same time when I did the first or 2nd D&F, I put a high quality brake pad on the rear, because the right rear was squeaking. I have no idea why just that 1 was squeaking, and I had cleaned it and sanded it once before and the squeak came back, so I just replaced the pads. And the squeal is gone. (I also noticed I barely even have to apply pressure on the brake pedal and the car just stop with ease and very light pressure. At least compare to the previous pads.. And that was just the rear, so I plan on doing the front too, soon-ish. So if the pads were/are making a smell then no wonder the smell subsided somewhat in the past month, because it has been colder and I got rid of the rear set. Plus it seems unlikely that I would smell burnt transmission fluid on the outside of the car , as long as I have no transmission fluid leaking, and I don't. Strangely when I open my hood, I do not really smell the burnt smell very much all.. It's just the "normal hot engine" smell. So, basically, the smell might not have been the OEM fluid. But I am still leaving my vote for D4. My transmission just responds better and acts not so lazy. But still, I cannot completely rule out the transmission fluid as being the source for that burnt smell, because you know it takes a while to flush out the transmission fluid when you just do 1 3-quart D&F at a time. I will post back again much later if I make any new discoveries..
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Old 02-06-2019, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez View Post
Really? I thought DW-1 came out and eventually replaced ATF-Z1 well after the last 3G TL rolled off the assembly line.
Sorry....my maintenance spreadsheet lists DW-1 as the spec but I think that I used Z1 until summer 2009. So the Z1 took my transmission to about 55,000 miles, and the DW1 for the last 230,000 miles. Pretty sure my previous TL used the Z1 and that lasted just under 200,000 miles.
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